COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DICARBONYL COMPOUND AND METHOD FOR SMOOTHING THE HAIR USING THIS COMPOSITION

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: at least one dicarbonyl compound of formula (I) below and/or derivatives thereof and/or hydrates thereof and/or the corresponding salts:

##STR00001##

in which formula (I):
R represents an atom or group chosen from i) hydrogen, ii) carboxyl —C(O)OH, iii) optionally substituted linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6, alkyl, iv) optionally substituted phenyl, v) optionally substituted benzyl, vi) an indolyl radical, and vii) an imidazolylmethyl radical, and tautomers thereof, at least one cellulose-based polymer and at least one amphoteric surfactant,
the composition having a pH of less than or equal to 4.

The invention also relates to a process for straightening keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises the application to the hair of the composition of the invention, followed by a straightening step using a straightening iron at a temperature of at least 150° C., preferably between 150 and 250° C.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising at least one dicarbonyl compound of formula (I) below and/or derivatives thereof and/or hydrates thereof and/or the corresponding salts: ##STR00004## in which formula (I): R represents an atom or group chosen from i) hydrogen, ii) carboxyl -C(O)OH, iii) optionally substituted linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl, iv) optionally substituted phenyl, v) optionally substituted benzyl, vi) an indolyl radical, and vii) an imidazolylmethyl radical, and tautomers thereof, at least one cellulose-based polymer and at least one amphoteric surfactant, the composition having a pH of less than or equal to 4.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in which the dicarbonyl compound(s) are of formula (I) with R representing i) a hydrogen atom or ii) a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl group optionally substituted with a carboxyl group.

3. The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, in which the dicarbonyl compound(s) of formula (I) and/or derivatives thereof and/or hydrates thereof and/or salts thereof are chosen from glyoxylic acid and pyruvic acid, a derivative thereof, salts thereof and hydrates thereof, preferably from glyoxylic acid, a derivative thereof and the hydrate forms of these compounds.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the dicarbonyl derivative(s) of formula (I) and/or derivatives thereof are chosen from glyoxylic acid esters, glyoxylic acid amides, glyoxylic acid (thio)acetals and hemi(thio)acetals, and glyoxylic acid ester (thio)acetals and hemi(thio)acetals.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the glyoxylic acid is in hydrate form.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1% to 20% of dicarbonyl compounds of formula (I) and/or derivatives thereof by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the cellulose-based polymer is nonionic, preferably chosen from (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)akylcelluloses, (poly)hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcelluloses and mixed (poly)hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl-(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcelluloses.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the compounds of formula (B1) below:
R.sub.a—C(O)—NH—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—N.sup.+(R.sub.b)(R.sub.c)—CH.sub.2C(O)O.sup.−, M.sup.+, X.sup.−   (B1) in which formula: R.sub.a represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.a-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed copra oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or unclecyl group; R.sub.b represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and R.sub.c represents a carboxymethyl group; M.sup.+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and X.sup.− represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl- or (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M.sup.+ and X.sup.− are absent.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the compounds of formula (B2) below:
R.sub.a′—C(O)—NH—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—N(B)(B′)   (B2) in which formula: B represents the group —CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—O-X′; B′ represents the group —(CH.sub.2),Y′, with z=1 or 2; X′ represents the group —CH.sub.2—C(O)OH, —CH.sub.2—C(O)OZ′, —CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—C(O)OH or —CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—C(O)OZ′, or a hydrogen atom; Y′ represents the group C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ′, —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3H or the group —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3—Z′; Z′ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; R.sub.a′ represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R.sub.a′—C(O)OH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially a C.sub.17 group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C.sub.17 group.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from the compounds of formula (B′2) below:
R.sub.a″—NH—CH(Y″)—(CH.sub.2)n—C(O)—NH—(CH.sub.2)n″—N(R.sub.d)(R.sub.e)   (B′2) in which formula: Y″ represents the group C(O)OH, —C(O)OZ″, —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3H or the group —CH.sub.2—CH(OH)—SO.sub.3—Z″; R.sub.d and R.sub.e represent, independently of each other, a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; Z″ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; R.sub.a″ represents a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid. R.sub.a″—C(O)OH, which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil; n and n′ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

11. The composition as, claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.05% to 30% by weight preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims characterized in that it is aqueous and comprises water in a concentration preferably ranging from 5% to 98%, better still from 5% to 50% and even better still from 10% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A process for straightening keratin fibers such as the hair, which comprises the application to the hair of the composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, for a contact time of between 10 and 60 minutes, followed by a straightening step using a straightening iron at a temperature of at least 150T, preferably between 150 and 250° C.

14. The use of the composition as, claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, for straightening/relaxing keratin fibers such as the hair.

Description

EXAMPLE

[0102] Composition according to the invention: (the contents are indicated as crude starting material (in grams of the commercial product indicated))

TABLE-US-00001 Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (Methocel F4M from Dow 1 Chemical) Glyoxylic acid (50% aqueous solution) 16 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate (sodium N-cocoylamidoethyl-N- 2 ethoxycarboxymethyl glycinate) 30% aqueous solution (Miranol C2M Conc. NP from Rhodia) Crosslinked ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate chloride 2.5 homopolymer, as a dispersion in a mix. of esters at 50%; (Salcare SC 96 from BASF) Lactic acid 2.5 Sodium hydroxide (10% aqueous solution) 7 Bisamino PEG/PPG-41-3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicone at 2 30% AM (Silsoft A 843 from Momentive Performance Materials) Water qs *pH 2.2 ± 0.2

[0103] The above composition is applied to a lock of hair having a substantial level of curliness. After a leave-on time of 20 minutes on the hair, blow-drying is performed with a hairdryer and the lock is then straightened using a straightening iron. The evolution of fumes during the use of the iron is low.

[0104] The lock is then washed, and then dried with a hairdryer. A straight lock of hair free of curliness is thus obtained.