COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATIN FIBRES

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising: —an aqueous phase, —a surfactant system present at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and ii) at least one anionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, together forming a lamellar phase Lβ, and—at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for coating a keratin fiber, the composition comprising: an aqueous phase; a surfactant system present at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and ii) at least one anionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8 selected from the group consisting of an acyl glutamic acid and a salt thereof, together forming a lamellar phase Lβ; and at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of at least one film-forming polymer.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is represented by formula (I):
(ALK-[C(O)].sub.a—[O].sub.b).sub.c—X  (I) where: ALK is a C.sub.7-C.sub.23 alkyl group, a and b are independently an integer between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group.

3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the group X is: i) HO-(ALK-O).sub.z—CH2-CH[(OALK).sub.y—OH]—CH2-(O-ALK).sub.x-(*) where: ALK is independently a C1-C6 alkylene group and, x, y and z are independently an integer between 0 and 10, with the proviso that x+y+z is other than 0; or ii) H-(ALK-O).sub.x-(*) and H—(O-ALK).sub.x-(*), where: ALK is independently a C1-C6 alkylene group, and x is an integer other than 0.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is represented by formula (I′):
ALK-(O—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2).sub.n—OH  (I′) where ALK is a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 alkyl group, and n is an integer other than 0.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: an ester and an ether of a monosaccharide which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; an ester of a fatty acid, and of a polyol, which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; an alcohol. which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; and a mixture thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant comprises an alcohol, which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated and comprises an ether of a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10 ethylene glycol units.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one C.sub.12-C.sub.22 acyl chain, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant is present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant, are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant are present in a respective total content such that a weight ratio of the at least one non-ionic surfactant to the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from 1/5 to 5.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the particles of the at least one film-forming polymer are synthetic polymers of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, or a mixture thereof.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one aqueous dispersion of the particles of the at lease one film-forming polymer is an acrylic polymer dispersion, a polyurethane dispersion, a sulfopolyester dispersion, a vinyl dispersion, a polyvinyl acetate dispersion, a vinylpyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersion, a dispersion of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers, a dispersion of particles of core-shell type, and a mixture thereof.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is present in a content of from 30% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises a wax content of less than or equal to 5% by weight.

16. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one colorant, which is at least one pulverulent substance.

17. The composition according to claim 1, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.Math.s.

18. A process for coating a keratin fibre, the process comprising applying to the keratin fibre the composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0500] A mascara composition in accordance with the invention is described below:

TABLE-US-00002 Composition Comparative Comparative 1 according composition composition Ingredients to the 2 outside the 3 outside the with percentage contents invention invention invention STEARETH 2 (Brij S2-SO-(TH) from Croda) 10 10 — Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS 11 PF 10 — — from AJINOMOTO) CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K from DSM — 10 — Nutritional Products) CARNAUBA Wax 16 Peg 30 Glyceryl stearate (TAGAT S from EVONIK)  4 ACRYLIC AND STYRENE/ACRYLIC COPOLYMERS 25 25 25 AS A 40% AQUEOUS EMULSION IN A WATER/BUTYLENE GLYCOL/PROTECTED SODIUM LAURYL ETHER SULFATE MIXTURE (SYNTRAN 5760 CG from INTERPOLYMER) Pigments (iron oxides)   12.2   12.2   12.2 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Preservatives qs qs qs

[0501] Composition 1 according to the invention was prepared as follows:

[0502] The ingredients are weighed out, the Steareth 2 and sodium stearoyl glutamate in accordance with the invention are melted at 80° C., and the water preheated in an electric kettle to 95° C. and the pigments are then added. Mixing is carried out for 5 minutes at 95° C. using a Moritz blender. The mixture is left to cool to 60° C., with slow stirring, and then the dispersion of film-forming polymer is added.

[0503] The preservatives are poured into the mixture when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 45° C.

[0504] The mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying out on contact with air; it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formulation and the correct dispersion of the pigments.

[0505] The same preparation protocol is used for the comparative compositions outside the invention.

[0506] 1/Verification of the Presence of a Lamellar Phase Lβ

[0507] The presence of a lamellar phase Lβ was first of all suspected by means of an optical microscope with cross-polarized light with a magnification of 10.

[0508] It should be noted that the characterization of a lamellar phase Lβ using the X-ray diffraction technique previously explained should be carried out essentially on a combination of surfactant system and aqueous phase in order to avoid any scattering which might mask the lamellar-phase lines, capable of disrupting the measurements. Thus, this measurement should be carried out on a composition free of pigments and of fillers. This measurement can be carried out on the following compositions:

TABLE-US-00003 Composition Comparative 1′ according composition Ingredients to the 2′ outside with percentage contents invention the invention STEARETH 2 (Brij 72 from Uniqema)  7  7 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT 15 — HS 11 PF from AJINOMOTO) CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL — 15 K from DSM Nutritional Products) Water qs 100 qs 100 Preserving agents qs qs

[0509] It should be noted that, although the surfactant contents were slightly modified compared with the example of composition 1 according to the invention previously given, a similar, or even identical, X-ray diffraction spectrum would be obtained with the surfactant contents of said composition 1′ free of pigments and of fillers.

[0510] Conversely, a surfactant system in which the acyl glutamic acid, or salt thereof, was replaced with an anionic surfactant with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8 chosen from cetyl phosphate, as used in comparative composition 2′ outside the invention, does not allow the formation of a lamellar phase L3.

[0511] 2/Protocols and Results

[0512] The composition 1 prepared is observed with the naked eye and under a microscope, and then tested on a test sample of bare eyelashes, by application of these compositions using a brush.

[0513] The composition 1 according to the invention exhibits, to the naked eye, a black colour of good intensity and, under a microscope, a fine dispersion of particles.

[0514] The composition in accordance with the invention is pleasant to apply, it has a fluid texture, the deposit is constructed coat after coat, the composition coats the eyelashes well, the makeup result is uniform and the eyelash fringe is well spread out. In addition, this composition is stable at 4° C. and 45° C. for two months.

[0515] Comparative composition 2 outside the invention is less black, less stable and less uniform under microscopic observation.

[0516] Comparative composition 3 outside the invention is too liquid to allow a rheological measurement.

[0517] The application of composition 1 according to the invention to the eyelashes is more pleasant than that of comparative composition 2 outside the invention or that of comparative composition 3 outside the invention. The playtime of composition 1 according to the invention is longer than that of comparative composition 2 outside the invention or of comparative composition 3 outside the invention, it being greater than 20 brushstrokes without impairing the application. Furthermore, the volume conferred by composition 1 according to the invention is greater than that conferred by comparative composition 2 outside the invention or comparative composition 3 outside the invention.

[0518] Comparative Example Outside the Invention Using a Weight Content of Surfactant System According to the Invention which is Too Low

TABLE-US-00004 Comparative composition 4 Ingredients outside the with percentage contents invention STEARETH 2 (BRIJ S2-SO-(TH) from CRODA) 10 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS 11 PF from  3 AJINOMOTO) Water qs 100

[0519] The presence of 13% by weight of a mixture of a surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8 and of a surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8 chosen from stearoyl glutamate does not make it possible to form a lamellar phase, contrary to the compositions according to the invention which comprise at least 15% by weight of surfactant system.

[0520] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

[0521] Throughout the application, the wording “comprising one” or “containing one” means “comprising at least one” or “containing at least one”, unless otherwise specified.