READILY REMOVABLE GEL-TYPE COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

The present invention is directed towards a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, in particular for coating keratin fibres such as the eyelashes, comprising: —at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and —at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from meltable compounds, said oily phase also comprising at least one volatile oil; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, said composition comprising less than 10% by weight of non-volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising from 10% to 70% by weight of volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising a water content at least equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Claims

1. Composition, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from meltable compounds, said oily phase also comprising at least one volatile oil; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, said composition comprising less than 10% by weight of non-volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising from 10% to 70% by weight of volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising a water content at least equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 5% by weight.

3. Composition according to claim 1, comprising from 15% to 55% by weight of volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to claim 1, in which said volatile oil(s) comprise at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.

5. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one wax as meltable compound.

6. Composition according to claim 5 comprising from 3% to 40% by weight of meltable compound(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 1, also comprising, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one modified clay.

8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the gelled oily phase also comprises at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer.

9. Composition according to claim 8, said hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) being chosen from lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, block ethylenic copolymers, vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit, and silicone acrylate copolymers, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to claim 8, comprising from 1% to 30% by weight of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent at least one gelling agent chosen from associative polymers, which are nonionic; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to claim 1, comprising as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent at least one gelling agent chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate; ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate polymers; nonionic associative polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to claim 1, containing as hydrophilic gelling agent/lipophilic gelling agent system a system chosen from: copolymer(s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate/wax(es)-modified clay(s); polymer(s) of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/wax(es)-modified clay(s); and nonionic associative polyurethane(s)/wax(es)-modified clay(s).

14. Composition according to claim 1, containing the aqueous and oily phases in an aqueous phase/oily phase weight ratio of from 90/10 to 10/90.

15. Composition according to claim 1, having a viscosity ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.Math.s.

16. Composition according to claim 1, comprising a water content at least equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. Composition according to claim 1, also comprising at least solid particles.

18. Composition according to claim 1 comprising a solid content of greater than or equal to 25%.

19. Composition according to claim 1 consisting of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases, these two phases both having a gel-type texture.

20. Composition according to claim 1 comprising less than 5% surfactant.

21. Composition according to claim 1, in the form of a composition for caring for and/or making up keratin fibres.

22. Method for preparing a composition, comprising at least one step of mixing: an aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from meltable compounds, said oily phase also comprising at least one volatile oil; under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, said composition comprising less than 10% by weight of non-volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising from 10% to 70% by weight of volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising a water content at least equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

23. Cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin fibres comprising at least one step which consists in applying to said keratin fibres a composition as defined according to claim 1.

24. Cosmetic method for making up and/or caring for keratin fibres comprising at least the application to said keratin fibres of a macroscopically homogeneous composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application or at the time of application to said keratin fibres, of at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent, and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from meltable compounds, said oily phase also comprising at least one volatile oil, said composition comprising less than 10% by weight of non-volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising from 10% to 70% by weight of volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition comprising a water content at least equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

25. Composition according to claim 11 comprising as synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent at least one gelling agent that is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers; and mixtures thereof.

26. Composition according to claim 13 in which and preferably the system of nonionic associative is polyurethane(s)/wax(es)-modified clay(s).

Description

EXAMPLES

[0545] Mascara formulations in accordance or not in accordance with the invention are prepared as described below.

[0546] 1) Preparation of the Aqueous Phases

[0547] The aqueous phases are prepared from the compounds that follow in the weight proportions specified in the tables below.

[0548] The percentages are on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the phase under consideration.

[0549] The hydrophilic gelling agent is added to part of the water with hot stirring at 70° C. The stirring is adjusted so as not to incorporate air into the mixture. The rest of the water, the phenoxyethanol, the pentylene glycol and the denatured alcohol are then added thereto.

[0550] The mixture is stirred moderately with a Rayneri blender for about 10 minutes at room temperature.

[0551] Phase A1:

TABLE-US-00001 Weight % Compounds Phase A1 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Steareth-100/PEG 136/HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) 10.0% copolymer (Rheolate ® FX 1100 sold by the company Elementis) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Denatured alcohol 3.0%

[0552] Phase A2:

TABLE-US-00002 Weight % Compounds Phase A2 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate 2.0% copolymer (Sepinov ® EMT 10 sold by the company SEPPIC) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Denatured alcohol 3.0%

[0553] Phase A3:

TABLE-US-00003 Weight % Compounds Phase A3 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide 1.0% (Hostacerin AMPS ® sold by the company Clariant) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Denatured alcohol 3.0%

[0554] Phase A4:

TABLE-US-00004 Weight % Compounds Phase A4 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Xanthan gum (Rhodiacare XC ® sold 8.0% by the company Solvay) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Denatured alcohol 3.0%

[0555] Phase A5:

TABLE-US-00005 Weight % Compounds Phase A5 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Pregelatinized hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate 14.0% (Structure ® ZEA sold by the company Akzo Nobel) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Denatured alcohol 3.0%

[0556] Phase A6:

TABLE-US-00006 Weight % Compounds Phase A6 Microbiologically clean deionized water qs 100 Hydroxyethylcellulose (Cellosize ® QP 4400 H sold by the 4.0% company Dow Chemical) Phenoxyethanol 0.5% Pentylene glycol 3.0% Denatured alcohol 3.0%

[0557] 2) Preparation of the Oily Phase

[0558] The oily phase B1 is prepared from the compounds that follow in the weight proportions specified in the table below.

[0559] The percentages are on a weight basis relative to the total weight of phase B1.

[0560] The meltable compound is melted at 90-95° C. Once molten, the isododecane, the gelling agent, the pigments and the propylene carbonate are added. The mixture is stirred for 20 minutes. At room temperature, the mixture is treated three times with a three-roll mill.

[0561] Phase B1:

TABLE-US-00007 Weight % Compounds Phase B1 White beeswax (White beeswax SP 453P sold by the company 20.0% Strahl & Pitsch) Black iron oxides 4.0% Isododecane 68.3% Hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium 5.8% (Bentone 38VCG ® sold by the company Elementis) Propylene carbonate 1.9%

[0562] 3) Preparation of the Mascara Formulations

[0563] These formulations are obtained by mixing several phases intended to form mascaras in accordance with the invention (formulations 1 to 9) or not in accordance with the invention (formulations 10 to 17), in the weight proportions described in the table below.

[0564] The percentages are on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0565] The aqueous and oily gels are weighed out and then mixed with a Rayneri blender.

[0566] The fatty phase/aqueous phase ratio is established as a function of the desired performance.

TABLE-US-00008 Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Weight % Formulations phase A1 phase A2 phase A3 phase A4 phase A5 phase A6 phase B1 Formulation 1 30.0 70.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 2 50.0 50.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 3 70 30 (according to the invention) Formulation 4 50.0 50.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 5 30.0 70.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 6 70.0 30.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 7 50.0 50.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 8 30.0 70.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 9 70.0 30.0 (according to the invention) Formulation 50.0 50.0 10 (outside the invention) Formulation 30.0 70.0 11 (outside the invention) Formulation 70.0 30.0 12 (outside the invention) Formulation 50.0 50.0 13 (outside the invention) Formulation 30.0 70.0 14 (outside the invention) Formulation 70.0 30.0 15 (outside the invention) Formulation 50.0 50.0 16 (outside the invention) Formulation 30.0 70.0 17 (outside the invention)

[0567] Protocol for Evaluating the Technical Effect of the Compositions

[0568] The ease of removal and the water resistance of these various formulations were evaluated.

[0569] The water resistance and makeup-removal tests are performed on samples of false eyelashes (straight black Caucasian hair with a fringe length of 19 mm, mounted between two 30 mm by 30 mm plates).

[0570] The hairs are made up by performing three times 10 passages of the test composition at two-minute intervals using a mascara brush. The samples are left to dry for one hour at room temperature (25° C.).

[0571] The evaluation of the water resistance was assessed in the following manner: the samples were immersed in water for one-hour and rubbed 10 times on a blotting paper with a pendulum. The water resistance was then evaluated as a function of the intensity of the mascara marks left on the blotting paper, according to the following notation scale:

[0572] 0: no marks

[0573] 1: imperceptible marks

[0574] 2: few light-grey marks

[0575] 3: a few light-grey marks

[0576] 4: light-grey marks

[0577] 5: dark grey marks

[0578] 6: very dark grey marks

[0579] 7: a few dark black marks

[0580] 8: dark black marks

[0581] 9: very dark black marks

[0582] The evaluation of the makeup-removing efficacy consists in counting the number of cotton wool pads required to totally remove the makeup from the fringe of made-up hair. 2 mL of makeup remover are applied to a pad of cotton wool, with which the fringe of hair is pinched for 10 seconds, and then drawn.

[0583] The makeup remover used is a two-phase lotion known as Bifacil from Lancôme.

[0584] The water resistance and makeup-removing efficacy results are collated in the table below. This table also indicates the quality of the mascara deposit on the hair.

TABLE-US-00009 Number of cotton Intensity of the wool pads marks on the required blotting paper for total after immersion makeup Quality of the Formulations for 1 hour removal deposit Formulation 1 (according to 0 5 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 2 (according to 2 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 3 (according to 2 2 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 4 (according to 0 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 5 (according to 0 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 6 (according to 2 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 7 (according to 0 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 8 (according to 0 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 9 (according to 1 3 satisfactory the invention) Formulation 10 (outside the 7 4 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 11 (outside the 4 8 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 12 (outside the 9 3 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 13 (outside the 0 5 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 14 (outside the 0 5 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 15 (outside the 3 5 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 16 (outside the 4 5 unsatisfactory invention) Formulation 17 (outside the 0 4 unsatisfactory invention)

[0585] The formulations were evaluated according to three criteria: the composition must form a film on the eyelashes that is suitable for a mascara application, must have a result of less than or equal to 2 in the water resistance test and must require not more than 5 cotton wool pads for total makeup removal.

[0586] The tests performed show that the formulations according to the invention (formulations 1 to 9) form an acceptable mascara deposit with better water resistance and are easier to remove than the formulations outside the invention (formulations 10 to 17).

[0587] Specifically, none of the formulations 10 to 17 satisfies these three criteria.