COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATIN FIBRES

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising: —an aqueous phase, —a surfactant system present at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and ii) at least one anionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, together forming a lamellar phase Lβ, and —at least one lamellar filler. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition for coating a keratin fibre, the composition comprising: an aqueous phase; a surfactant system present at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to a total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and ii) at least one anionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, selected from the group consisting of a from glutamic acid and a salt thereof, together forming a lamellar phase Lβ; and at least one spherical filler.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is represented by formula (I):
(ALK-[C(O)].sub.a-[O].sub.b).sub.c—X  (I) where: ALK is a C.sub.7-C.sub.23 alkyl group, a and b are independently an integer between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, and X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group.

3. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the group X is: i) HO-(ALK-O).sub.z-CH2-CH[(OALK).sub.y-OH]-CH2-(O-ALK).sub.x-(*) where: each ALK is independently a C1-C6 alkylene group, and x, y and z are independently an integer between 0 and 10, with the proviso that x+y+z is other than 0; or ii) H-(ALK-O).sub.x-(*) and H-(O-ALK).sub.x-(*), where: each ALK is indpendently a C1-C6 alkylene group, and x is an integer other than 0.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is represented by formula (I′):
ALK-(O-CH.sub.2-CH.sub.2)n-OH  (I′) where: ALK is a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 alkyl group, and n is an integer other than 0.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of: an ester and an ether of a monosaccharide which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenate; an ester of a fatty acid, and a polyol; an alcohol which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; and a mixture thereof.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant comprises an alcohol, which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated and comprises an ether of a C.sub.5-C.sub.24 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10 ethylene glycol units.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant comprise(s) comprises at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one C.sub.12-C.sub.22 acyl chain, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant is present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant is present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one anionic surfactant are present in a respective total content such that a weight ratio of the at least one non-ionic surfactant to the at least one anionic surfactant ranges from ⅕ to 5.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one spherical filler is selected from the group consisting of: silica powders; powders of at least one acrylic (co)polymer, and a derivative thereof; polyurethane powders; silicone powders; polyamide powders; and a mixture thereof.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one spherical filler is present in a total content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase is present in a content of from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises a wax content of less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one aqueous dispension of particles of at least one film-forming polymer.

17. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one colorant, which is at least one pulverulent substance.

18. The composition according to claim 1, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.Math.s.

19. A process for coating a keratin fibre, the process comprising: applying the composition according to claim 1 to the keratin fibre.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0514] A mascara composition in accordance with the invention is described below:

TABLE-US-00002 Comparative Composition 1 composition 2 Ingredients according to the outside the with percentage contents invention invention STEARETH 2 (Brij S2-SO-(TH) 10   10   from Croda) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 10   — (AMISOFT HS 11 F from AJINOMOTO) CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL — 10   K from DSM Nutritional Products) N-LAUROYL LYSINE AMIHOPE 12.2 12.2 LL from AJINOMOTO) Pigments (iron oxides) 12.2 12.2 Water qs 100 qs 100 Preservatives qs qs

[0515] This composition was prepared as follows:

[0516] The ingredients are weighed out, the Steareth 2 and sodium stearoyl glutamate in accordance with the invention are melted at 80° C., and the water preheated in an electric kettle to 95° C., the fillers and the pigments are then added. Mixing is carried out for 5 minutes at 95° C. using a Moritz blender. The mixture is left to cool with slow stirring.

[0517] The preservatives are poured into the mixture when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 45° C.

[0518] The mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying out on contact with air; it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formulation and the correct dispersion of the pigments.

[0519] 1/Verification of the Presence of a Lamellar Phase Lβ

[0520] The presence of a lamellar phase Lβ was first of all suspected by means of an optical microscope with cross-polarized light with a magnification of 10.

[0521] It should be noted that the characterization of a lamellar phase Lβ using the X-ray diffraction technique previously explained should be carried out essentially on a combination of surfactant system and aqueous phase in order to avoid any scattering which might mask the lamellar-phase lines, capable of disrupting the measurements. Thus, this measurement should be carried out on a composition free of pigments and of fillers. This measurement was carried out on the following composition:

TABLE-US-00003 Composition Comparative 1′ according composition Ingredients to the 2′ outside with percentage contents invention the invention STEARETH 2 (Brij 72 from Uniqema)  7  7 Sodium stearoyl glutamate 15 — (AMISOFT HS 11 PF from AJINOMOTO) CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K — 15 from DSM Nutritional Products) Water qs 100 qs 100 Preserving agents qs qs

[0522] It should be noted that, although the surfactant contents were slightly modified compared with the example of composition 1 according to the invention previously given, a similar, or even identical, X-ray diffraction spectrum would be obtained with the surfactant contents of said composition 1′ free of pigments and of fillers.

[0523] Conversely, a surfactant system in which the acyl glutamic acid, or salt thereof, was replaced with an anionic surfactant with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8 chosen from cetyl phosphate, does not allow the formation of a lamellar phase Lβ.

[0524] Comparative composition 2′ outside the invention is less black, less stable and less uniform under microscopic observation.

[0525] 2/ Protocols and Results

[0526] The composition 1 prepared is observed with the naked eye and under a microscope, and then tested on a test sample of bare eyelashes, by application of these compositions using a brush.

[0527] The composition 1 according to the invention exhibits, to the naked eye, a black colour of good intensity and, under a microscope, a fine dispersion of particles (pigments and lamellar filler).

[0528] The composition in accordance with the invention is pleasant to apply, it has a fluid texture, the deposit is constructed coat after coat, the composition coats the eyelashes well, the makeup result is uniform and the eyelash fringe is well spread out. In addition, these compositions are stable at 4° C. and 45° C. for two months.

[0529] Comparative composition 2 outside the invention is less black, less stable and less uniform under microscopic observation.

[0530] Comparative Example Outside the Invention Using a Weight Content of Surfactant System According to the Invention Which is too Low

TABLE-US-00004 Comparative composition 3 Ingredients outside the with percentage contents invention STEARETH 2 (BRIJ S2-SO-(TH) from CRODA) 10 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS 11 PF from 3 AJINOMOTO) Water qs 100

[0531] The presence of 13% by weight of a mixture of a surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8 and of a surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8 chosen from stearoyl glutamate does not make it possible to form a lamellar phase, contrary to the compositions according to the invention which comprise at least 15% by weight of surfactant system.

[0532] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

[0533] Throughout the application, the wording “comprising one” or “containing one” means “comprising at least one” or “containing at least one”, unless otherwise specified.