COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE AMPS® COPOLYMER, AT LEAST ONE ACYL GLUTAMIC ACID OR A SALT THEREOF AND AT LEAST ONE ALKYL POLYGLUCOSIDE

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one copolymer comprising at least one 2-acrylami-do-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group, at least one acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof and at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: a) at least one copolymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) monomer and at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group, b) at least one acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, and c) at least one emulsifying system comprising at least one alkyl polyglucoside.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the AMPS® copolymer(s) are crosslinked by a crosslinking agent.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer(s) are completely salified.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is chosen from the acrylates and acrylamides of formula (II):
(II) in which R1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical; Y denotes O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms; x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.

5. The composition according to claim 4, wherein, in formula (II), Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R1 represents a methyl, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25.

6. The composition according to claim 4, wherein the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group of formula (II) is ethoxylated (25EO) stearyl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula (II) in which the group R1 represents a methyl, the group Y denotes 0, the group R2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 18 carbon atoms and x is equal to 25.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the AMPS® copolymer is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25EO).

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the AMPS® copolymer(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acyl glutamic acid(s) are chosen from acyl glutamic acids in which the acyl group comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the salt(s) of the acyl glutamic acids are chosen from the salts of alkali metals, the salts of alkaline-earth metals, or the ammonium salts of said acids.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acyl glutamic acid(s) or a salt thereof are chosen from lauroyl glutamic acids, cocoyl glutamic acids, sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate and mixtures thereof.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acyl glutamic acid(s) and salts thereof are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) below: ##STR00004## in which: R1 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms; the group G is a saccharide residue; a is a number ranging from 1 to 10.

14. The composition according to claim 13, wherein the saccharide residue is chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, starch, and mixtures thereof.

15. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from the arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol/arachidyl glucoside mixture, the cetylstearyl alcohol/cetylstearyl glucoside mixture, and mixtures thereof.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one fatty substance.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid homopolymer.

18. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from xanthan gums, modified or unmodified starches, celluloses and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

19. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin material, in which a composition as defined according to claim 1 is applied to said keratin material.

20. The process according to claim 19, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin material wherein the keratin material is selected from the group of the scalp, the hair and the skin.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0198] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to ambient temperature (20-25° C.), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure at sea level, unless otherwise indicated. Moreover, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed on a weight basis relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

[0199] The following compositions were prepared according to the process below:

[0200] phase B is mixed using a stirrer (for example Maxilab Turbotest tank bottom rotor/stator turbine sold by the company OLSA) at a speed of 800 revolutions/minute while heating at 85° C. for 10 minutes until the solution is homogeneous,

[0201] phase A is introduced into phase B using the stirrer at a speed of 3000 revolutions/minute while maintaining a temperature of 85° C.,

[0202] phase C is introduced into the mixture of phases A+B using the stirrer at a speed of 3000 revolutions/minute, without heating, until the solution is homogeneous,

[0203] phase D is then introduced into the mixture of phases A+B+C. The stirring is continued at a speed of 2000 revolutions/minute in order to obtain good homogenization.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Chemical Composition Composition Composition name A B C (INCI Name) (Invention) (Invention) (Comparative) A Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 5 5 5 Preserving agents qs qs qs B Cetearyl alcohol (and) Cetearyl 2 2 2 glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC, 80/20) Arachidyl alcohol (and) Behenyl 2 2 2 alcohol (and) Arachidyl glucoside (Montanov 202 from SEPPIC, 55/30/15) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.4 0.4 — (Amisoft HS 11 PF from Ajinomoto) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) 1 1 1 wax Hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides 2 2 2 Mangifera indica (mango) seed 2 2 2 butter Dicaprylyl carbonate 4 4 4 Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) 2.8 2.8 2.8 seed oil Persea gratissima (avocado) oil 2.4 2.4 2.4 C Ammonium 0.3 0.3 0.3 acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth- 25 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aristoflex HMS from Clariant) Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 0.3 — 0.3 Polymer from Lubrizol) Xanthan gum — 0.3 — D Schizandra sphenanthera fruit 0.1 0.1 0.1 extract Cyathea medullaris leaf extract 0.1 0.1 0.1

[0204] The viscosity of compositions A, B and C was analysed using the method described below.

[0205] Compositions A1 and A2 are identical, in terms of compounds, to composition A according to the invention with a different acyl glutamic acid salt (sodium stearoyl glutamate) (see Table 2).

[0206] Control of the Viscosity:

[0207] The viscosity of the compositions is measured using a Rheomat R180 viscometer. The measurements are performed after a resting period of 24 hours, at ambient temperature (25° C.) using the M4 spindle provided with the measuring device. The measurements are performed at controlled ambient temperature (25° C.).

[0208] The viscosity of the compositions was analysed at 30 seconds and at 10 minutes.

[0209] Results of the viscosity of the compositions:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS Viscosity Viscosity at 11 PF from Ajinomoto) at 30 s 10 minutes Compositions concentration (in g %) (in poise) (in poise) C (comparative) 0 72 65 B (Invention) 0.4 28 24 A1 (invention) 0.15 66 48 A2 (invention) 0.25 55 48 A (invention) 0.4 50 42

[0210] The compositions according to the invention (A, A1, A2 and B) comprising an acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof at different concentrations have a lower viscosity at 30 seconds and at 10 minutes than the comparative composition not comprising acyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof. Thus, the compositions according to the invention have an appearance that is not very “pasty” and they are easier to take up and to apply while the same time being more pleasant at the time of application.

[0211] Control of the Sensory and Cosmetic Properties:

[0212] Compositions A, B and C according to the invention are applied to the skin, in a proportion of 1 ml of product on the hand, making circular movements 5 times with the index finger and while subsequently evaluating the application of the formulae, by a panel of 5 individuals.

[0213] Compositions A and B according to the invention have an appearance that is not very “pasty”, and are therefore easy to apply. Furthermore, there is barely a soaping effect observed on the skin during the application of the compositions according to the invention.

[0214] Comparative composition C exhibits a very considerable soaping effect on the skin compared with the compositions according to the invention.

[0215] Control of the Stability of the Compositions:

[0216] The stability of a composition of the invention can be evaluated by means of the following protocol.

[0217] A composition is prepared and is then placed at ambient temperature, in an incubator at a temperature of 4° C., in an incubator at a temperature of 37° C. and in an incubator at a temperature of 45° C. (for example an incubator of the Firlabo Bio concept brand).

[0218] At T=0, the pH is evaluated and the viscosity is measured for each composition, and also the appearance, colour and odour of the composition. Each composition is also observed under a microscope between a cover slip and slide, at a magnification of ×10.

[0219] At T=1 month, the appearance, colour and odour of each composition is evaluated. Each composition is also observed under a microscope between a cover slip and slide, at a magnification of ×10. Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance.

[0220] At T=2 months, the pH is evaluated and the viscosity is measured for each composition, and also the appearance, colour and odour of the composition. Each composition is also observed under a microscope between a cover slip and slide, at a magnification of ×10. Its microscopic appearance must remain close to the initial appearance.

[0221] The composition must not exhibit any modification of the macroscopic appearance: it must remain smooth and homogeneous, without any release, without any phase separation and without any colour change.

[0222] Compositions A and B according to the invention do not exhibit any macroscopic or microscopic appearance modifications; they are considered to be stable.

[0223] Comparative composition C exhibits stability problems after 2 months spent in the incubator at 45° C.

Example 2

[0224] The following compositions were prepared according to the process as described in example 1.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Composition Composition Chemical name D E (INCI Name) (Invention) (Comparative) A Water qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 5 5 Preserving agents qs qs B Cetearyl alcohol (and) Cetearyl 2 2 glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC, 80/20) Arachidyl alcohol (and) Behenyl 2 2 alcohol (and) Arachidyl glucoside (Montanov 202 from SEPPIC, 55/30/15) Sodium stearoyl glutamate 0.4 0.4 (Amisoft HS 11 PF from Ajinomoto) Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) 1 1 wax Hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides 2 2 Mangifera indica (mango) seed 2 2 butter Dicaprylyl carbonate 4 4 Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) 2.8 2.8 seed oil Cocos nucifera oil (and) gardenia 2.4 2.4 taitensis flower Persea gratissima (avocado) oil 2.4 2.4 C Ammonium 0.3 — acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth- 25 methacrylate crosspolymer (Aristoflex HMS from Clariant) Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 0.3 0.3 Polymer from Lubrizol) D Schizandra sphenanthera fruit 0.1 0.1 extract Cyathea medullaris leaf extract 0.1 0.1 Hydrolyzed linseed extract 1 1

[0225] Control of the Sensory and Cosmetic Properties:

[0226] Composition D according to the invention and comparative composition E are applied to the skin, in a proportion of 1 ml of product on the hand, making circular movements 5 times with the index finger and while subsequently evaluating the application of the formulae, by a panel of 5 individuals.

[0227] Composition D according to the invention have an appearance that is not very “pasty”, and are therefore easy to apply. Furthermore, there is barely a soaping effect observed on the skin during the application of the composition according to the invention.

[0228] Comparative composition E exhibits a very considerable soaping effect on the skin compared with the composition D according to the invention.