COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR COATING KERATIN FIBRES

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibres, comprising: —an aqueous phase, —a surfactant system present at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising: i) at least one non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and ii) at least one anionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, together forming a lamellar phase Lβ, and —at least one spherical filler. The present invention also relates to a process for coating keratin fibres.

Claims

1: A composition, comprising: an aqueous phase; a surfactant system present at a total content of greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said surfactant system comprising: i) a non-ionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and ii) an anionic surfactant with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, together forming a lamellar phase Lβ; and a lamellar filler.

2: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 correspond(s) to formula (I) below:
(ALK-[C(O)].sub.a—[O].sub.b).sub.c—X  (I) wherein: ALK is a C.sub.7-C.sub.23 alkyl group, a and b are integers between 0 and 100, c is an integer between 1 and 100, and X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group optionally substituted and/or terminated with a hydroxyl group.

3: The composition according to claim 2, wherein the group X is chosen from: i) HO-(ALK-O).sub.z—CH2-CH[(OALK).sub.y—OH]—CH2-(O-ALK).sub.x-(*) wherein: ALK, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkylene group, and x, y and z are an integer between 0 and 10, wherein x+y+z is other than 0; and ii) H-(ALK-O).sub.x-(*) and H—(O-ALK).sub.x-(*), preferably is H—(O-ALK).sub.x-(*) wherein: ALK, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkylene group, and x is an integer other than 0.

4: The according to claim 1, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 correspond(s) to formula (I′) below:
ALK-(O—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2).sub.n—OH  (I′) wherein: ALK is a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 alkyl group, n being an integer other than 0.

5: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 is (are) chosen from: esters and ethers of monosaccharides which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; esters of fatty acids, and of polyol, which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; alcohols which are optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated; and mixtures thereof.

6: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8 comprise(s) an alcohol which is optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, comprising an ether of a C.sub.8-C.sub.24 fatty alcohol and of polyethylene glycol, said ether comprising from 1 to 10 ethylene glycol units.

7: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, comprise(s) at least one acyl glutamic acid having at least one C.sub.12-C.sub.22 acyl chain, salt(s) (glutamates) thereof, and a mixture or mixtures thereof.

8: The composition according to claim 7, wherein the anionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, is (are) present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, is (are) present in a content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

10: The composition according to claim 7, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and the anionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11: The composition according to claim 7, wherein the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, and the anionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, are present in a respective total content such that the weight ratio of the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of less than 8, to the anionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8, chosen from acyl glutamic acids and salts thereof, ranges from 1/5 to 5.

12: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lamellar filler(s) is (are) chosen from talc, natural or synthetic mica, silicas, clays, perlite particles, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorphlogopite, an N-lauroyl lysine powder, and mixtures thereof.

13: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the lamellar filler(s) is (are) present in a total content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a wax content of strictly less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16: The composition according to claim 1, comprising an aqueous dispersion of particles of a film-forming polymer.

17: The composition according to claim 1, comprising a colorant chosen from one or more pulverulent substances.

18: The composition according to claim 1, having a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.Math.s.

19: A process for coating keratin fibres, comprising applying a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to the keratin fibres.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0502] A mascara composition in accordance with the invention is described below:

TABLE-US-00002 Composition Comparative 1 according composition Ingredients to the 2 outside the with percentage contents invention invention STEARETH 2 (Brij S2-SO-(TH) 10   10   from Croda) Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT 10   — HS 11 PF from AJINOMOTO) CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K — 10   from DSM Nutritional Products) Hexamethylene/trimethylol hexyl lactone 12.2 12.2 copolymer powder containg silica (PLASTIC POWDER D 400) Pigments (iron oxides) 12.2 12.2 Water qs 100 qs 100 Preservatives qs qs

[0503] This composition was prepared as follows:

[0504] The ingredients are weighed out, the Steareth 2 and sodium stearoyl glutamate in accordance with the invention are melted at 80° C., and the water preheated in an electric kettle to 95° C., the fillers and the pigments are then added. Mixing is carried out for 5 minutes at 95° C. using a Moritz blender. The mixture is left to cool with slow stirring.

[0505] The preservatives are poured into the mixture when the temperature of the mixture is less than or equal to 45° C.

[0506] The mascara thus obtained is transferred into a closed jar to prevent it from drying out on contact with air; it is then necessary to wait 24 hours to check the homogeneity of the formulation and the correct dispersion of the pigments.

[0507] 1/ Verification of the Presence of a Lamellar Phase Lβ

[0508] The presence of a lamellar phase Lβ was first of all observed by means of an optical microscope with cross-polarized light with a magnification of 10.

[0509] It should be noted that the characterization of a lamellar phase Lβ using the X-ray diffraction technique previously explained should be carried out essentially on a combination of surfactant system and aqueous phase in order to avoid any scattering which might mask the lamellar-phase lines, capable of disrupting the measurements. Thus, this measurement should be carried out on a composition free of pigments and of fillers. This measurement can be carried out on the following compositions:

TABLE-US-00003 Composition Comparative 1′ according composition Ingredients to the 2′ outside with percentage contents invention the invention STEARETH 2 (Brij 72 from Uniqema)  7  7 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT 15 — HS 11 PF from AJINOMOTO) CETYL PHOSPHATE (AMPHISOL K from — 15 DSM Nutritional Products) Water qs 100 qs 100 Preserving agents qs qs

[0510] It should be noted that, although the surfactant contents were slightly modified compared with the example of composition 1 according to the invention previously given, a similar, or even identical, X-ray diffraction spectrum would be obtained with the surfactant contents of said composition 1′ free of pigments and of fillers.

[0511] Conversely, a surfactant system in which the acyl glutamic acid, or salt thereof, was replaced with an anionic surfactant with an HLB value of greater than or equal to 8 chosen from cetyl phosphate does not allow the formation of a lamellar phase Lβ as observed by optical microscopy and characterizable using this same x-ray diffraction technique.

[0512] 2/ Protocols and Results

[0513] The composition 1 prepared is observed with the naked eye and under a microscope, and then tested on a test sample of bare eyelashes, by application of these compositions using a brush.

[0514] The composition 1 according to the invention exhibits, to the naked eye, a black colour of good intensity and, under a microscope, a fine dispersion of particles (pigments and lamellar filler).

[0515] The composition in accordance with the invention is pleasant to apply, it has a fluid texture, the deposit is constructed coat after coat, the composition coats the eyelashes well, the makeup result is uniform and the eyelash fringe is well spread out. In addition, this composition is stable at 4° C. and 45° C. for two months.

[0516] Comparative composition 2 outside the invention is less black, less stable and less uniform under microscopic observation.

[0517] Comparative Example Outside the Invention Using a Weight Content of Surfactant System According to the Invention which is Too Low

TABLE-US-00004 Comparative composition 3 Ingredients outside the with percentage contents invention STEARETH 2 (BRIJ S2-SO-(TH) from CRODA) 10 Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS 11 PF from  3 AJINOMOTO) Water qs 100

[0518] The presence of 13% by weight of a mixture of a surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8 and of a surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of greater than or equal to 8 chosen from stearoyl glutamate does not make it possible to form a lamellar phase, contrary to the compositions according to the invention which comprise at least 15% by weight of surfactant system.

[0519] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

[0520] Throughout the application, the wording “comprising one” or “containing one” means “comprising at least one” or “containing at least one”, unless otherwise specified.