SILICONE ELASTOMER IN OILY PHASE

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one oily phase, said oily phase comprising: (i) at least one silicone elastomer present within water droplets dispersed in said oily phase; and (ii) at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.

Claims

1. Composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one oily phase, wherein said oily phase comprises: (i) at least one silicone elastomer present within water droplets dispersed in said oily phase; and (ii) at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase forms the external phase.

3. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the silicone elastomer (i) is in the form of particles of at least one partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

4. Composition according to claim 1 wherein said silicone elastomer is present in said droplets in a form combined with at least one non-ionic surfactant.

5. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an active material amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the surfactant in (ii) has the formula (I): ##STR00003## in which: Sx is the radical —O(CH.sub.3).sub.2SiO—Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3, Gly is the radical —C.sub.3H.sub.6O[CH.sub.2—CH(OH)CH.sub.2O].sub.nH with n ranging from 1 to 5, and a ranges from 1 to 1.4; b ranges from 0.02 to 0.04; and c ranges from 0.02 to 0.04.

7. Composition according to claim 1, containing from 1% to 15%, by weight of surfactant(s) (ii), relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the oily phase(s) comprise(s), or even consist(s) of, one or more silicone oil(s).

9. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the proportion of the oily phase(s) comprises from 35% to 95% by weight, of oil(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the oily phase comprises at least one water-soluble compound, said water-soluble compound being carried within the water droplets of the aqueous dispersion of elastomer (i).

11. Composition according to claim 10, comprising water-soluble compounds having an amount of active material ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. (canceled)

13. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the oily phase comprises reflective particles of average size less than or equal to 30 μm, and made up of a natural or synthetic mica-based substrate coated with a single layer or several superimposed layers, the weight proportion of a TiO.sub.2 layer, if present, remaining less than that of the mica.

14. (canceled)

15. (canceled)

16. (canceled)

17. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 wherein said process, comprises at least one step of introducing a silicone elastomer in aqueous suspension into an oily phase and at least one step of introducing at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 into said oily phase.

18. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 2 wherein said process comprises at least the following two steps (a) and (b), in this order: (a) providing an oily phase containing at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8; and (b) introducing into said oily phase at least one silicone elastomer in aqueous suspension.

19. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 10 wherein said process comprises at least: a) a step of introducing at least one silicone elastomer in aqueous suspension into an oily phase, and b) a step of introducing at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 into said oily phase, the two introducing steps being simultaneous or consecutive, said aqueous suspension of silicone elastomer also containing at least one water-soluble compound.

20. Process for preparing a cosmetic composition according to claim 13 wherein said process comprises at least: a) a step of introducing at least one silicone elastomer in aqueous suspension into an oily phase, b) a step of introducing at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 into said oily phase, and c) a step of introducing the reflective particles into the oily phase containing said elastomer(s) and surfactant(s), it being possible for steps (a) and (b) to be simultaneous or successive.

21. Process for making up and/or caring for a keratin material, wherein said process comprises a step of applying a composition according to claim 1.

Description

EXAMPLES

Examples 1 to 5

Influence of the Nature of the Surfactant

[0211] Examples 1 to 5 make it possible to show the influence of the structure of the surfactant on the dispersibility of the aqueous suspension of silicone elastomer (BY 29-119 from Dow Corning) in an oily phase.

TABLE-US-00001 % by weight A Surfactant 10.00 Isohexadecane 27.00 Isododecane 19.60 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 28.00 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 15.40 (9.70 elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the AM) reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning TOTAL 100%

[0212] Procedure

[0213] The constituents of phase A are weighed out in the main beaker and are stirred with a Moritz blender (1100 rpm) while maintaining at ambient temperature.

[0214] Phase B is then added while stirring with the Moritz blender (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenized.

[0215] Results

TABLE-US-00002 Appearance of the dispersion Example Silicone surfactant (×10 microscope) Example 1 Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Homogeneous dispersion (Invention) Dimethicone sold under the of the elastomer by reference KF6100 by the microscope company Shin-Etsu Example 2 Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethyl- Heterogeneous dispersion (Comparative) siloxyethyl Dimethicone sold of the elastomer by under the reference KF 6104 microscope (presence of by Shin-Etsu residual lumps) Example 3 Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Heterogeneous dispersion (Comparative) Polydimethylsiloxyethyl of the elastomer by Dimethicone sold under microscope (presence of the reference KF 6105 by residual lumps) Shin-Etsu Example 4 Dimethicone Polyglycerin-3 Heterogeneous dispersion (Comparative) Crosspolymer sold under the of the elastomer by reference KSG 710 by Shin- microscope (presence of Etsu residual lumps) Example 5 Bis PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/ Heterogeneous dispersion (Comparative) PPG-16/16 Dimethicone of the elastomer by sold under the reference microscope (presence of Abil Care 85 by the company residual lumps) Evonik Goldschmidt

Examples 6 to 9

Influence of the Nature of the Silicone Elastomer

[0216] Examples 6 to 9 make it possible to show the influence of the nature of the silicone elastomer on the homogeneity of the composition and its viscosity.

TABLE-US-00003 Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 (Invention) (Invention) (Comparative) (Comparative) % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane  6.00  6.00  6.00  6.00 Dimethicone sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 66.00 64.60 66.00 54.24 B Aqueous suspension of 28.00 (17.64% — — — organopolysiloxane AM + elastomer (63% elastomer) 10.18% Water) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning Aqueous suspension of — 29.40 (17.64% — — organopolysiloxane AM + elastomer (60% elastomer) 11.17% Water) sold under the reference EP- 9 by the company Grant Industries Vinyl dimethicone/ — — 17.64 — Methicone Silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the reference KSP 100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dimethicone/Vinyl — — — 29.40 (17.64% dimethicone crosspolymer + AM + Dimethicone 6 cSt (60/40) 11.76% sold under the reference Dimethicone) KSG 6 by the company Shin-Etsu C Water — — 10.36 10.36 TOTAL 100% 100% 100% 100% Homogeneity of the Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Non- composition homogeneous

[0217] Procedure

[0218] The constituents of phase A are weighed out in the main beaker and are stirred with a Moritz blender (1100 rpm) while maintaining at ambient temperature.

[0219] Next, phase B is added at ambient temperature, while stirring using a Moritz blender (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenized.

[0220] Phase C is then added, with continued stirring using a Moritz blender (3000 rpm) for 5 minutes.

[0221] Results

TABLE-US-00004 Viscosity Example Silicone elastomer (mPa .Math. s) Example 6 Aqueous suspension of organopoly- 1020 (Invention) siloxane elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning Example 7 Aqueous suspension of organopoly- 1060 (Invention) siloxane elastomer (60% elastomer) sold under the reference EP-9 by the company Grant Industries Example 8 Vinyl dimethicone/Methicone 100 (Comparative) Silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under the reference KSP 100 by the company Shin-Etsu Example 9 Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone Not (Comparative) crosspolymer + Dimethicone 6 cSt measurable (60/40) sold under the reference KSG since not 6 by the company Shin-Etsu homogeneous

[0222] Procedure for Measuring Viscosity

[0223] The viscosity is measured after 24 hours of storage in a room kept at a constant temperature of 20° C.

[0224] A Rheomat 200 from Lamy is used as viscometer.

[0225] The principle of the measurement is based on the determination of the couple required to overcome the resistance of the fluid using an immersed element (measuring spindle or body) rotating at a constant speed.

[0226] The spindle is chosen in such a way that the measurement is always between 10 and 90 du (whole number of deviation units). In the context of this invention, spindle 2 or spindle 3 is used (spindles ranging from 1 (most fluid) to 5 (thickest)).

[0227] The product is introduced into a bucket suitable for the chosen spindle and kept at a temperature of 25° C. by virtue of a thermostatic water bath.

[0228] The programming of the apparatus is the following:

[0229] Mode: manual

[0230] Measuring system: 75 (fixed parameter regardless of the spindle used and programmed by the company Lamy)

[0231] Rotational speed: 200 rpm

[0232] The reading is carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle.

Example 10

Foundation

[0233]

TABLE-US-00005 % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Isododecane 11.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 40.71 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 22.00 (13.86 elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the AM) reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning C Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 6.00 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminium stearoyl 12.47 glutamate Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl 1.26 glutamate Red iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl 0.40 glutamate Black iron oxide coated with aluminium stearoyl 0.16 glutamate TOTAL 100%

[0234] Procedure

[0235] The constituents of phase A are weighed out in the main beaker and are stirred with a Moritz blender (1000 rpm) for 15 minutes while maintaining at ambient temperature.

[0236] Next, phase B is added to the main beaker while stirring using a Moritz blender (2500 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenized.

[0237] Phase C is prepared separately by milling three times in a three-roll mill the mixture of pigments and of dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0238] Next, this phase C is added to the main beaker while stirring using a Moritz blender (3500 rpm) for 15 minutes at ambient temperature.

Examples 11 and 12

[0239] Examples 11 and 12 illustrate the possibility of introducing respectively a polyol and a water-soluble polymer into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and of then introducing this suspension into the oily phase.

TABLE-US-00006 Example 11 Example 12 (Invention) (Invention) % by weight % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane 6.00 6.00 Dimethicone sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 64.00  65.90  B Aqueous suspension of 28.00 (17.64% 28.00 (17.64% organopolysiloxane AM + AM + elastomer (63% elastomer) 10.18% Water) 10.18% Water) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning Propane-1,3 diol sold under 2.00 — the reference Zemea propane diol by the company Dupont Tate and Lyle Bio Products Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold — 0.10 under the reference PVP K 90 by the company ISP Homogeneity of the composition Homogeneous Homogeneous

[0240] Procedure

[0241] The constituents of phase A are weighed out in the main beaker and are stirred with a Moritz blender (1100 rpm) while maintaining at ambient temperature.

[0242] Phase B is prepared separately by dissolving the water-soluble compound in the aqueous phase of the silicone elastomer while stirring with a Rayneri mixer (500 rpm) for 5 min.

[0243] Next, phase B is added to phase A at ambient temperature, while stirring using a Moritz blender (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenized.

Examples 13 to 16

[0244] Examples 13 to 16 illustrate the possibility of introducing water-soluble compounds into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and of then introducing this suspension into the oily phase.

TABLE-US-00007 Example 13 Example 14 Example 15 Example 16 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) % by weight % by weight % by weight % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 58.41 57.00 59.50 64.00  B Aqueous suspension of 28.00 (17.64% 28.00 (17.64% 28.00 (17.64% 28.00 (17.64% organopolysiloxane elastomer (63% AM + AM + AM + AM + elastomer) sold under the reference BY 10.18% Water) 10.18% Water) 10.18% Water) 10.18% Water) 29-119 by the company Dow Corning Hydroxyethylurea sold under the 7.59 (3% — — — reference Hydrovance by the company AM) Akzo Nobel Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol sold — 9.00 (3.15% — — under the reference Mexoryl SBB by the AM) company Chimex Sodium tetrahydrojasmonate sold under — — 6.50 (2.08% — the reference Mexoryl SBO by the AM) company Chimex Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) — — — 2.00 Homogeneity of the composition Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous Homogeneous

[0245] Procedure

[0246] The compositions of Examples 13 to 16 are prepared according to the procedure described for Examples 11 and 12.

Example 17

[0247] Example 17 illustrates the possibility of introducing a water-soluble screening agent into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and of then introducing this suspension into the oily phase.

TABLE-US-00008 Example 17 (Invention) % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 56.79  B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 28.00 (17.64% AM + elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the 10.18% Water) reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning Terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic 7.00 (2.31% AM) acid sold under the reference Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, Triethanolamine 2.21 Homogeneity of the composition Homogeneous

[0248] Procedure

[0249] The constituents of phase A are weighed out in the main beaker and are stirred with a Moritz blender (1100 rpm) while maintaining at ambient temperature.

[0250] Phase B is prepared separately by dissolving the water-soluble screening agent in the aqueous phase of the silicone elastomer while magnetically stirring for 5 minutes, and then it is neutralized with triethanolamine while continuing the magnetic stirring for 5 minutes.

[0251] Next, phase B is added to phase A at ambient temperature, while stirring using a Moritz blender (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenized.

Example 18

[0252] Example 18 illustrates the possibility of introducing a water-soluble dye into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and of then introducing this suspension into the oily phase.

TABLE-US-00009 Example 18 (Invention) % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 67.70  B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 26.00 (16.38% AM + elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the 9.45% Water) reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning Red 4 0.30 Homogeneity of the composition Homogeneous

[0253] Procedure

[0254] The composition of Example 18 is prepared according to the procedure described for Examples 11 and 12.

Examples 19 and 20

Influence of the Nature of the Substrate of the Nacre

[0255] Examples 19 and 20 make it possible to show the influence of the nature of the substrate of the nacre which according to the invention should be mica.

TABLE-US-00010 % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 66.00 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 26.00 (16.38 AM) elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning C Nacre 2.00 TOTAL 100

[0256] Procedure:

[0257] The constituents of phase A are weighed out in the main beaker and are stirred with a Moritz blender (1100 rpm) while maintaining at ambient temperature.

[0258] Phase B is then added while stirring with the Moritz blender (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenized.

[0259] Next, phase C is added at ambient temperature, by stirring using a Moritz blender (3100 rpm) until homogenized.

[0260] Results

[0261] Appearance after 1 month of stability at ambient temperature 37, 45 and 4° C.:

TABLE-US-00011 Average Examples Nacres Structure size (μm) Appearance Example 19 Mica-brown iron oxide sold Mica/Iron ox. 8 No (invention) under the reference Pearlescent (43/57) sedimentation of Pigment Prestige soft bronze by the nacre. the company Sudarshan Homogeneous Chemical dispersion. Example 20 Silica- titanium oxide-tin oxide SiO.sub.2/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 20 Totally (Comparative) sold under the reference Xirona (88/10/2) unacceptable Magic Mauve by the company appearance at Merck 45° C.: Sedimentation of the nacre.

Examples 21 to 25

Influence of the Size and of the Content of Mica of the Nacre

[0262] The comparison of Examples 21 to 24 makes it possible to show the influence of the average size of the nacre which is preferably between 1 and 30 μm.

[0263] The comparison of Examples 21 and 25 makes it possible to show the influence of the content of mica of the nacre which is preferably greater than that of the titanium dioxide.

TABLE-US-00012 % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone sold 6.00 under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 66.00 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 26.00 (16.38 AM) elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning C Nacre 2.00 TOTAL 100

[0264] Procedure:

[0265] These compositions are prepared according to the procedure described in detail for Examples 19 and 20.

[0266] Results

[0267] Appearance after 1 month of stability at ambient temperature 37, 45 and 4° C.:

TABLE-US-00013 Examples Nacres Structure Size (μm) Appearance Example 21 Mica-titanium oxide sold Mica/TiO.sub.2 8 No sedimentation of (invention) under the reference Timiron (60/40) the nacre. Dispersion Supersilk MP 1005 by the Homogeneous. company Merck Example 22 Synthetic mica Synthetic 15 No sedimentation of (invention) (fluorphlogopite)-Titanium mica/TiO.sub.2/ the nacre. Dispersion oxide-Brown iron oxide sold Iron ox./SnO.sub.2 Homogeneous. under the reference Syncrystal (73/24/2/1) Ivory by the company Eckart Example 23 Synthetic mica Synthetic 45 Totally unacceptable (Comparative) (fluorphlogopite)-brown iron mica/Iron ox. appearance: oxide sold under the reference (54.5/45.5) Sedimentation of the Sunshine Glitter Russet by nacre at 37° C. and the company Sun Chemical increase in viscosity at 45° C. Example 24 Mica-brown iron oxide sold Mica/Iron ox. 80 Totally unacceptable (Comparative) under the reference Colorona (83/17) appearance at 45° C.: glitter bronze by Sedimentation of the the company Merck nacre and increase in viscosity. Example 25 Mica-titanium oxide sold Mica/TiO.sub.2/SnO.sub.2 12 Totally unacceptable (Comparative) under the reference Timiron (31/68/1) appearance at 45° C.: silk green by the company beginning of Merck agglomeration of the nacre.

Example 26

Nacreous Oily Illuminator

[0268]

TABLE-US-00014 % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 5.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Polydimethylsiloxane sold under the reference 10.00 Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone fluid 5 cSt by the company Dow Corning Cyclohexasiloxane 27.00 Isododecane 10.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 20.00 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 26.00 (16.38 AM) elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning C Mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide 2.00 (49/32/19) sold under the reference Colorona oriental beige by the company Merck TOTAL 100

[0269] Procedure:

[0270] This composition is prepared by reproducing the preparation process described for Examples 19 and 20.

Example 27

Nacreous Oily Illuminator

[0271]

TABLE-US-00015 % by weight A Polyglyceryl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 sold under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Decamethyltetrasiloxane 10.00 Cyclohexasiloxane 26.00 Isododecane 10.00 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 20.00 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 26.00 (16.38 AM) elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under the reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning C Mica-titanium oxide (63.5/36.5) sold under 2.00 the reference EXP 1373-088C Sun Shine soft fine red by the company Sun Chemical TOTAL 100

[0272] Procedure:

[0273] This composition is prepared by reproducing the preparation process described for Examples 19 and 20.