COMPOSITION COMPRISING ALKYLCELLULOSE, INCOMPATIBLE HYDROCARBON AND SILICONE OILS AND METHOD EMPLOYING IT

Abstract

The present invention is relating to a cosmetic composition comprising: at least 2% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, of alkylcellulose, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil, at least 20% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, of at least one second oil, incompatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile fluorinated oils, or their combinations, optionally at least one non-volatile third oil, different from the first oil or oils, chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils different from the second oil or oils, phenylated oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, or their mixtures, less than 5% by weight of water, with respect to the weight of the composition.

The composition can comprise at least one wax.

The invention also relates to a method for making up and/or caring, in particular for the lips, in which the abovementioned composition is applied.

Claims

1: A solid composition comprising: at least 2% by weight of alkylcellulose, with respect to the weight of the composition, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil, at least 20% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition, of at least one second oil, incompatible with the first oil or oils, chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, from non-volatile fluorinated oils, or their combinations, optionally at least one non-volatile third oil, different from the first oil or oils, chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils different from the second oil or oils, phenylated oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, or their mixtures, and less than 5% by weight of water, with respect to the weight of the composition.

2: The composition according to the claim 1, wherein the alkylcellulose is chosen from ethylcellulose or propylcellulose.

3: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of alkylcellulose is between 2% and 16% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

4: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one wax.

5: The composition according to claim 4, wherein the wax is chosen from polar or non-polar hydrocarbon waxes.

6: The composition according to claim 4, wherein a content of wax is from 0.5% to 20% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

7: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the nonvolatile hydrocarbon first oil is chosen from C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched mono- or diesters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups; aromatic mono- or diesters comprising up to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups; non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters comprising less than 60 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups; vegetable oils; and their mixtures.

8: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil(s) is from 20% to 55% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

9: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil(s) is from 20% to 60% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

10: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a (alkylcellulose/alkylcellulose+first oil(s))*100 ratio by weight is from 10% to 60%.

11: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile silicone second oil(s) incompatible with the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils, non-volatile phenylated silicone oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, and their combinations.

12: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of non-volatile silicone second oil(s) represents a from 20% to 50% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

13: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon or silicone third oil, compatible with the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon first oil or oils such that a first oily phase comprising the first and third oils is formed, chosen from: the first oils, in so far as they are compatible with the second silicone or fluorinated oil or oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oils, chosen from nonaromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched mono- or diesters comprising more than 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups; non-aromatic, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched triesters comprising at least 60 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups, and also their mixtures; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol; esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of mono- or dicarboxylic acid; or polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated. non-volatile phenylated silicone oils different from the second oil or oils not comprising a dimethicone fragment, non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, and their mixtures.

14: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of third oil(s) is such that a content of the first oily phase is from 5% and 40% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

15: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of third oil(s) is such that a content of the first oily phase is from 4% and 40% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

16: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil or their combinations.

17: The composition according to claim 1, wherein a content of volatile oil(s) is from 5% to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

18: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one compound which is pasty at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

19: The composition according to claim 18, wherein a content of pasty compound is from 0.5% to 15% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

20: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises less than 2% by weight of water, with respect to the weight of the composition.

21: The composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one colorant.

22: A method for making up and/or caring for the lips, the method consisting of applying the composition according to claim 1 to the lips.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

[0467] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00001 Ingredients (chemical name or Compo- Compo- Phase INCI name) sition 1 sition 2 A Octyldodecanol 20 53.1 Coco-caprylate/caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF)** 29.4 — Ethylcellulose 12.6 13.9 (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm, Ashland) B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 1.3 Red 7 1.5 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2.0 2.0 Iron oxide 1.4 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 30 25 (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) Ethylcellulose/ethylcellulose + 38.6% 20.7% octyldodecanol ratio by weight* *Calculation: [content of ethylcellulose/(content of ethylcellulose + octyldodecanol)]*100 **oil compatible with the octyldodecanol

Preparation of the Compositions:

[0468] The pigments are ground in a portion of the octyldodecanol.

[0469] The ethylcellulose is dispersed in the remainder of the octyldodecanol and the coco-caprylate/caprate, if this compound is present, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of the stirring sufficient to have a vortex).

[0470] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, the pigments/octyldodecanol mixture is added, under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0471] Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring, over at least 15 minutes.

[0472] The resulting mixture is poured under hot conditions into the conditioning jar.

Evaluation of the Compositions:

Wear of Colour:

[0473] The wear-property index of the deposited layer obtained with each composition is determined according to the measurement protocol described below:

[0474] A support (40 mm×70 mm rectangle) consisting of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on polyethylene film sold under the name Blenderme Ref. FH5000-55113 by 3M Santé) bonded to a layer of polyethylene foam which is adhesive on the face opposite that to which the adhesive plaster is fixed (foam layer sold under the name RE 40X70EP3 from Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind.) is prepared.

[0475] The colour L*0a*0b*0 of the support, on the acrylic coating face side, is measured using a Minolta CR300 colourimeter.

[0476] The support thus prepared is preheated on a hotplate maintained at a temperature of 40° C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33° C.±1° C.

[0477] While leaving the support on the hotplate, the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (that is to say to the surface of the acrylic coating), spreading it out using a brush in order to obtain a deposited layer of the composition of approximately 15 m, and then drying is allowed to take place for 10 minutes.

[0478] After drying, the L*a*b* colour of the film thus obtained is measured.

[0479] The colour difference ΔE1 between the colour of the film with respect to the colour of the bare support is then determined by the following relationship:

ΔE1=(L*−Lo*).sub.2+(a*−ao*).sub.2+(b*−bo*).sub.2

[0480] The support is subsequently bonded via its adhesive face (adhesive face of the foam layer) to an anvil 20 mm in diameter and equipped with a screw pitch.

[0481] A test specimen of the support/deposited layer assembly is subsequently cut out using a hollow punch 18 mm in diameter. The anvil is subsequently screwed onto a press (Statif Manuel Imada SV-2 from Someco) equipped with a tensile testing device (Imada DPS-20 from Someco).

[0482] A strip 33 mm wide and 29.7 cm long is drawn on a sheet of white photocopier paper with a basis weight of 80 g/m.sup.2, a first line is marked out at 2 cm from the edge of the sheet and then a second line is marked out at 5 cm from the edge of the sheet, the first and second lines thus delimiting a box on the strip; next, a first mark and a second mark, located in the strip at the reference points respectively 8 cm and 16 cm from the second line, are applied.

[0483] The sheet of white paper is placed on the base of the press and then the test specimen placed on the box of the strip of paper is pressed at a pressure of approximately 300 g/cm.sup.2 exerted for 30 seconds. The press is then opened and the test specimen is again placed just after the second line (thus next to the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g/cm.sup.2 is again exerted, and the sheet of paper is displaced, in a rectilinear manner as soon as contact is made, with a speed of 1 cm/s over the entire length of the strip.

[0484] After removing the test specimen, a portion of the deposited layer has transferred onto the paper.

[0485] The L*′, a*′, b*′ colour of the deposited layer remaining on the test specimen is then measured. The colour difference ΔE2 between the colour of the deposited layer remaining on the test specimen with respect to the colour of the bare support is then determined by the following relationship:

ΔE2=(L*′−Lo*).sub.2+(a*′−ao*).sub.2+(b*′−bo*).sub.2

[0486] The wear-property index of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio:

100×ΔE2/ΔE1

[0487] The measurement is carried out on 6 supports in succession and the wear-property value corresponds to the mean of the 6 measurements obtained with the 6 supports.

Viscosity:

[0488] The viscosity at 25° C. of the compositions was evaluated according to the protocol described above in the description.

Stability:

[0489] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by storing the composition for 72 hours at ambient temperature and by observing whether separation of the oily phase and/or sedimentation of the pigments and/or pearlescent agents takes place.

Gloss:

[0490] The gloss of the deposited layer obtained on the lips with composition can be evaluated using a Polka SEI-M-0216-Polk-02 polarimetric camera and a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0, as described in Application FR 2 829 344.

[0491] The gloss is evaluated immediately after application, and 1 hour after application of the formula.

[0492] The formulation is applied to the lips of a panel of six subjects exhibiting thick and thin lips.

[0493] The gloss of the deposited layers which are obtained with the compositions can also be evaluated visually by applying the composition to the lips, immediately after application and 1 hour after application.

Results:

[0494]

TABLE-US-00002 Composition 1 Composition 2 Appearance of the Homogeneous, Homogeneous, composition no exudation no exudation of oil, stable of oil, stable Viscosity 20 Pa .Math. s 21 Pa .Math. s Stability Stable Stable Deposited layer Homogeneous, non- Homogeneous, non- tacky, does not dry tacky, does not dry out the lips, without out the lips, without feeling of tightness feeling of tightness Gloss and wear of Good gloss which lasts Good gloss which lasts gloss over time over time Wear of colour Non-transfer of the Non-transfer of the colour colour

Example 2

[0495] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as 0% by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00003 Ingredients (chemical name or Compo- Compo- Phase INCI name) sition 3 sition 4 A Octyldodecanol 18.7 18.7 Coco-caprylate/caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF) 21.9 21.9 Ethylcellulose 9.4 9.4 (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm, Ashland) B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 1.3 Red 7 1.5 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2.0 2.0 Iron oxide 1.4 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 30 30 (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) C.sub.30-50 alcohols (Performacol 550 12 — Alcohol; New Phase Technologies) Polyethylene wax — 12 Ethylcellulose/ethylcellulose + 33.5% 33.5% octyldodecanol ratio by weight* *Calculation: [content of ethylcellulose/(content of ethylcellulose + octyldodecanol)]*100

Preparation of the Compositions:

[0496] The pigments are ground in a portion of the octyldodecanol.

[0497] The ethylcellulose is dispersed in the remainder of the octyldodecanol, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of the stirring sufficient to have a vortex).

[0498] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, the pigments/octyldodecanol mixture and the wax are added, under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0499] Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring, over at least 15 minutes.

[0500] The resulting mixture is poured under hot conditions into the lipstick mould preheated to 42° C. and the assembly is cooled down to 4° C. Finally, the composition is removed from the mould and the sticks are conditioned.

Evaluation of the Compositions:

Wear of Colour:

[0501] The evaluation method is that described in the preceding examples.

Stability:

[0502] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by storing the composition at ambient temperature for 72 hours and by observing if there is exudation of one or more oils.

Hardness:

[0503] The hardness is measured according to the protocol defined above in the description.

Gloss:

[0504] The evaluation method is that described in the preceding examples.

Results:

[0505]

TABLE-US-00004 Composition 3 COMPOSITION 4 Appearance of the Homogeneous, Homogeneous, composition no exudation no exudation of oil, stable of oil, stable Hardness 47.8 Nm.sup.−1 72.5 Nm.sup.−1 Deposited layer Homogeneous, non- Homogeneous, non- tacky, does not dry tacky, does not dry out the lips, without out the lips, without feeling of tightness feeling of tightness Gloss and wear of Good gloss which lasts Good gloss which lasts gloss over time over time Wear of colour Non-transfer of the Non-transfer of the colour colour

Example 3

[0506] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00005 Composition 5 Phase Ingredients (chemical name or INCI name) invention A Octyldodecanol 18.7 Coco-caprylate/caprate (Cetiol LC, BASF)** 21.9 Hydrogenated jojoba oil (Jojoba Wax Flakes; 12 Desert Whale) Ethylcellulose 9.4 (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm, Ashland) B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 Red 7 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2.0 Iron oxide 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 30 (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) Ethylcellulose/ethylcellulose + 33.5% octyldodecanol ratio by weight* *Calculation: [content of ethylcellulose/(content of ethylcellulose + octyldodecanol)]*100 **Oil compatible with the octyldodecanol

Preparation of the Compositions:

[0507] The pigments are ground in a portion of the octyldodecanol.

[0508] The ethylcellulose is dispersed in the remainder of the octyldodecanol, and in the coco-caprylate/caprate, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of the stirring sufficient to have a vortex).

[0509] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, the pigments/octyldodecanol mixture and the wax are added, under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0510] Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring, over at least 15 minutes.

[0511] The mixture is cooled with Rayneri stirring down to ambient temperature.

Results:

Viscosity

[0512] The viscosity at 25° C. of the compositions was evaluated according to the protocol described above.

Stability

[0513] The stability of the compositions is evaluated by storing the composition for 72 hours at ambient temperature and by observing whether separation of the oily phase and/or sedimentation of the pigments and/or pearlescent agents takes place.

TABLE-US-00006 Composition 5 Appearance of the Homogeneous, no exudation of oil, stable composition Viscosity 20 Pa .Math. s Deposited layer Homogeneous, non-tacky, does not dry out the lips, without feeling of tightness Gloss and wear of Very good gloss gloss Wear of colour Non-transfer of the colour

Examples 4 and Comparative 5

[0514] The following compositions, the ingredients of which and their respective contents are collated in the table below, are prepared (the contents are expressed as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise indicated):

TABLE-US-00007 Ingredients (chemical name or Compo- Comparative Phase INCI name) sition 6 composition 7 A Octyldodecanol 53.1 53.1 Ethylcellulose 13.9 13.9 (Aqualon EC N7 Pharm, Ashland) B TiO.sub.2 Rutile 1.8 1.8 Red 28 lake 1.3 1.3 Red 7 1.5 1.5 Yellow 6 lake 2 2 Iron oxide 1.4 1.4 C Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone 25 — (Belsil PDM 1000; Wacker) Phenyl trimethicone (DOW CORNING — 25 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID) Ethylcellulose/ethylcellulose + 20.7% 20.7% octyldodecanol ratio by weight*

Preparation of the Compositions:

[0515] The pigments are ground in a portion of the octyldodecanol.

[0516] The ethylcellulose is dispersed in the remainder of the octyldodecanol, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring (speed of the stirring sufficient to have a vortex).

[0517] Once the ethylcellulose has dissolved, the pigments/octyldodecanol mixture is added, under the same temperature and stirring conditions.

[0518] Finally, after homogenization, the silicone is added, at 105° C., with Rayneri stirring, over at least 15 minutes.

[0519] The mixture is cooled with Rayneri stirring down to ambient temperature.

Results:

[0520] Viscosity, stability, gloss and wear of colour are evaluated as previously described.

TABLE-US-00008 Composition 7 Composition 6 comparative Appearance of the Homogeneous, Homogeneous, composition no exudation no exudation of oil, stable of oil, stable Viscosity 21 Pa .Math. s 22 Pa .Math. s Deposited layer Homogeneous, non- Homogeneous, does not dry tacky, does not dry out the lips, but tacky and out the lips, without with a feeling of tightness feeling of tightness Gloss and wear of Good gloss which lasts Good gloss which lasts gloss over time over time Wear of colour Non-transfer of the Transfer of the colour colour

[0521] It is found that the comparative composition, which does not contain an incompatible silicone oil, is tackier and leaves a feeling of tightness. In addition the wear of colour is degraded.