PERMANENT HAIR COLORANTS BASED ON A CREAM-LIKE CARRIER AND A COMBINATION OF TRIS (HYDROXYMETHYL) AMINOMETHANE, AT LEAST AN AMINO ACID AND AN OXIDATIVE DYE

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably for keratin fibers such as compositions for coloring hair, comprising at least these components: a. tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane; b. at least one amino acid; c. at least one organic phosphate ester compound selected from: c1. monoester of phosphates of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, wherein the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are composed of C12-C22 fatty alcohols alkoxylated with from 1 to 50 moles of an alkylene oxide, wherein the number of moles of alkylene oxide is with respect to the moles of fatty alcohol; c2. diester of phosphates of non-alkoxylated fatty alcohols, wherein the non-alkoxylated fatty alcohols are composed of C12-C22 fatty alcohols; and c3. mixtures of c1 and c2; d. water; the present invention further refers to a process of manufacturing a dispersion comprising the aforementioned cosmetic composition; a kit of two or more components for coloring keratin fibers; a ready-to-use composition obtainable by mixing the kit components; and a process for coloring keratin fibers comprising said ready-to-use composition.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, comprising at least these components: a. tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane; b. at least one amino acid; c. at least one organic phosphate ester compound selected from c1. monoester of phosphates of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, wherein the alkoxylated fatty alcohols are composed of C12-C22 fatty alcohols alkoxylated with from 1 to 50 moles of an alkylene oxide, the number of moles of alkylene oxide with respect to the moles of fatty alcohol; c2. diester of phosphates of non-alkoxylated fatty alcohols, wherein the non-alkoxylated fatty alcohols are composed of C12-C22 fatty alcohols; and c3. mixtures of c1 and c2; d. water; with the proviso that the composition does not comprise ammonia, salts of ammonia or a source of peroxy monocarbonate.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises a dye, which is selected from (a) at least one primary intermediate; (b) at least one direct dye; and (c) mixtures of (a) and (b).

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amino acid is selected from the group consisting of arginine, glycine, lysine, alanine, glutamine, histidine and serine.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one organic phosphate ester compound is selected from the group consisting of dicetyl phosphate, ceteth-10 phosphate, oleth-5 phosphate and dioleyl phosphate.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises from 1 to 10 wt. % of tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises from 1.0 to 30 wt. % in total of one or more amino acids, based on the total weight of the composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 6 wt. % in total of one or more organic phosphate ester compounds, based on the total weight of the composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the composition comprises from 0.1 to 8 wt. % in total of one or more dyes, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant, which is preferably present in an amount of 1-8 wt. %, based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the at least one primary intermediate is 1,4-diamino-2-methoxymethyl-benzene.

11. A process of manufacturing a dispersion, wherein the dispersion comprises a cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the process comprises at least these steps: i. providing water; ii. providing the at least one organic phosphate ester compound; iii. mixing the compounds provided in step i. to ii., further adding an inorganic base until a pH in the range of from 8 to 12, preferably of from 10 to 11, is reached; iv. providing tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane; v. applying heat to the mixture obtained from step iv. to achieve a temperature of 85° C. and maintaining this temperature for at least 10 minutes; vi. cooling the mixture to 50° C.; vii. adding to mixture I an aqueous solution II which aqueous mixture II comprises at least one amino acid, optionally dyes and further components, whereby the pH of mixture II is adjusted to a pH in the range of from 8 to 12, preferably of from 10 to 11, by an amount of inorganic base; viii. cooling the resulting mixture III obtained in step vii. to 40° C. and homogenizing, followed by cooling to room temperature whereby the dispersion is obtained.

12. A kit for coloring keratin fibers, comprising in individually packaged form at least two kit components: I. a cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1; II. a developer composition comprising an oxidizing agent.

13. The kit according to claim 12, wherein the oxidizing agent comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide.

14. A ready-to-use composition obtainable by mixing the kit components according to claim 12.

15. The ready-to-use composition according to claim 14, wherein the ratio of component I and component II is in the range of from 1:1 and 1:3, each number based on parts by weight.

16. A process for coloring keratin fibers, comprising the steps of: I. providing keratin fibers; II. contacting the keratin fibers of step I. with the ready-to-use composition according to claim 14 and allowing the ready-to-use composition to remain on the keratin fibers for a period of time; III. optionally rinsing the keratin fibers; IV. optionally drying the keratin fibers.

17. A kit for coloring keratin fibers, comprising in individually packaged form at least two kit components: I. a dispersion obtainable by a process according to claim 11; II. a developer composition comprising an oxidizing agent.

Description

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0149] FIG. 1 shows a process of manufacturing a dispersion. The process comprises these steps: i. providing water; ii. providing of the at least one organic phosphate ester compound; iii. mixing the compounds provided in step i. to ii., further adding an inorganic base until a pH in the range of from 8 to 12, preferably of from 10 to 11, is reached; iv. providing tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane; v. applying heat to the mixture obtained from step iv. to achieve a temperature of 85° C. and maintaining this temperature for at least 10 minutes; vi. cooling the mixture to 50° C.; vii. adding to mixture I an aqueous mixture II which aqueous mixture II comprises at least one amino acid, optionally dyes and further components, whereby the pH of mixture II is adjusted to a pH in the range of from 8 to 12, preferably of from 10 to 11, by an amount of inorganic base; viii. cooling the resulting mixture III to 40° C. and homogenizing, followed by cooling to room temperature. At this stage, the dispersion is obtained.

[0150] FIG. 2 shows a kit for coloring keratin fibers consisting of 2 tubes with cream.

[0151] FIG. 3 shows a process for coloring keratin fibers, comprising these steps: I. providing keratin fibers; II. contacting the keratin fibers of step I. with a ready-to-use composition which was obtained by mixing the components of a kit as in FIG. 2, further allowing the ready-to-use composition to remain on the keratin fibers for a period of time; III. (optionally) rinsing the keratin fibers; IV. (optionally) drying the keratin fibers.

[0152] FIG. 4 is a schematic of model head 1 as discussed in Example 10. The left side L of the head with hair (not shown here) was treated with a reference coloring composition, the right side R of the head with hair (not shown here) was treated with the cosmetic coloring composition under evaluation.

EXAMPLES

[0153] The following examples illustrate some aspects of the invention. It is understood that the examples and embodiments described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light thereof may be suggested by one skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the present invention.

[0154] Amounts mentioned in the tables below refer to wt.-% if not indicated to the contrary. When referring to rinsing or washing of hair with water in the examples, this is tap water, with a hardness of dH=8.4 (equals 1.5 mmol CaCO.sub.3/liter H.sub.2O). When referring to water as component of a composition (in tables, denoted as “aqua”), this is demineralized water as used for cosmetic purposes.

Comparative Examples 1-3

[0155] Comparative examples 1, 2 and 3 have been prepared based on a standard formulation. These examples are not reflective of the invention.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 developer compositions with hydrogen peroxide as oxidation agent Developer composition 1 2 3 Cetearyl alcohol 2.0 2.0 2.0 Ceteareth-50 0.5 0.5 0.5 Phosphoric acid 85% 0.1 0.1 0.1 Hydrogen peroxide 35% 17.1 25.8 34.3 Aqua ad 100.0 100.0 100.0 Hydrogen peroxide in the developer 6% 9% 12% composition pH of the developer composition 3.0 3.0 3.0

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Tint composition Tint composition 1 2 3 Crodaphos CES 8.00 7.00 10.00 Xanthan gum 0.10 0.10 0.30 Propylene glycol 3.00 3.00 5.00 Glycine 5.00 8.00 12.00 Arginine 1.00 — — Sodium hydroxide 4.90 4.55 6.80 Ascorbic acid 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium sulfite 0.30 0.30 0.30 EDTA 0.20 0.20 0.20 p-Toluenediamine sulfate 4.00 — 0.04 Methoxy-methyl-p- — 0.82 — phenylenediamine Resorcinol 1.00 0.45 0.015 m-Aminophenol 0.70 0.05 0.002 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol sulfate 0.60 — 0.010 2-Methylresorcinol — 0.10 — Tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane 3.00 5.00 5.00 Aqua, ad 100 100 100

[0156] Tint composition 1 (according to table 2) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 1 (according table 1) and applied onto medium-blond human hair. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was black.

[0157] Tint composition 2 (according to table 2) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 1 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair with 50% grey hair. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was medium-blond.

[0158] Tint composition 3 (according to table 2) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 3 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair of shade 7/0. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was light-blond.

Examples 4-7

[0159]

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Tint composition Tint composition 4 5 6 7 Crodaphos CES 8.00 7.00 10.00 10.00 Cetearyl alcohol 4.00 2.00 — 2.00 Lauryl alcohol — 0.50 1.00 — Myristyl alcohol — — 1.00 0.30 Stearyl alcohol — — 3.00 — Ceteareth-25 0.20 — — — Steareth-21 — — 0.50 — Ceteareth-50 — 0.40 — — Xanthan gum 0.01 — 0.03 — Propylene glycol 3.00 3.00 5.00 5.00 Glycine 6.00 8.00 12.00 8.00 Sodium hydroxide 3.20 4.30 6.40 4.30 Ascorbic acid 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium sulfite 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 EDTA 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 p-Toluenediamine sulfate 4.00 — 0.04 — Methoxy-methyl-p- — 0.82 — 0.200 phenylenediamine 4,5-Diamino-1-hydroxyethyl — — — 1.500 pyrazole sulfate Resorcinol 1.00 0.45 0.015 — m-Aminophenol 0.70 0.05 0.002 — 2,4-Diaminophenoxyethanol 0.60 — 0.010 — sulfate 2-Methylresorcinol — 0.10 — — 4-Amino-2-hydroxytoluene — — — 0.940 Tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane 3.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Polyquaternium-23 0.30 — — — Polyquaternium-7 — — — 0.50 Aqua ad 100 100 100 100

[0160] Tint composition 4 (according to table 3) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 1 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair with 50% grey hair. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was black.

[0161] Tint composition 5 (according to table 3) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 1 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair with a grey index of 50%. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was medium-blond.

[0162] Tint composition 6 (according to table 3) was mixed in 1:2 ratio with developer composition 3 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair with a grey index of 50%. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was light-blond.

[0163] Tint composition 7 (according to table 3) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 1 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair with a grey index of 50%. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. The color of the treated hair was red.

Example 8: Lightening of Hair

[0164] The following composition has no dye. Such composition has the effect of lightening hair once mixed with a developer composition and applied.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Lightening composition Tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane 5.0 Sodium glycinate 18.4 Sodium-β-alaninate 2.2 Crodaphos CES 6.0 Lorol spez 4.0 Lanette O 3.0 Lanette 18 2.0 Propylene glycol 1,2 2.0 Ceteareth-25 0.4 Xanthan gum 0.4 Sodium sulfite 0.4 Ascorbic acid 0.4 EDTA 0.2 Sodium hydroxide 30% 1.0 Aqua ad 100.0

[0165] The lightening composition comprises much more sodium glycinate than described in DE 19527121 A1, it is thus critical to the stability of a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition remains stable over three months at each: 5° C., 25° C. and 50° C. storage temperature. A composition is considered stable when no phase separation into two or more phases is observed.

[0166] The lightening composition of example 8 (according to table 4) was mixed in 1:1 ratio with developer composition 1 or 2 (according table 1) and applied onto human hair with shade 7/0. After remaining on the hair for 30 minutes, the hair was rinsed with water (T.sub.water=30° C.), washed with a neutral shampoo (T.sub.water=30° C.) and dried. L*a*b* values were determined prior and after the treatment (see Table 5).

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 L* a* b* ΔE Human hair, shade 7/0 30.33 6.56 10.98 treated with lightening composition and 35.57 7.77 14.06 6.20 developer composition 1, ratio 1:1 treated with lightening composition and 36.19 8.41 15.43 7.59 developer composition 2, ratio 1:1 The difference in L*-values between human hair prior to and after the treatment is a measure of the lightening effect caused by treatment with the composition used in the present example. The lightening effect caused by the treatment is more than 5 units (ΔL* = 35.57-30.33 = 5.23 and ΔL* = 36.19-30.33 = 5.86). This is comparable with the degree of lightening which can be achieved with conventional ammonia based lightening compositions (e.g.: Koleston Perfect 12/0 of Wella, 65824 Schwalbach, Germany).

Example 9: Process for the Manufacturing of a Cream-Like Cosmetic Coloring Composition

[0167] The following process represents one example in which Glycine was the selected amino acid.

Step 1:

[0168] With stirring, xanthan gum (4.0 g) was dissolved in water (220.4 g) at ambient temperature. To the obtained solution Crodafos CES (60.0 g) and Ceteareth-25 (4.0 g), Stearyl alcohol (20.0 g), Cetearyl alcohol 50:50 (30.0 g), a mixture of Lauryl alcohol and Myristyl alcohol 70:30 (40.0 g) followed by the addition of sodium hydroxide 30% in water (8.0 g). Then tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (50.0 g) is added and the slurry was heated to 75-80° C., homogenized and then allowed to cool to 50° C. Weight: 436.4 g.

Step 2:

[0169] In a separate beaker water (220.0 g) was placed. Stirring was started and sodium hydroxide 30% in water (213.6 g), and Glycine (120.0 g) were added, then disodium EDTA (2.0 g), ascorbic acid (4.0 g), sodium sulfite (3.0 g). If the composition contains one or more dyes, the amount of dyes was compensated for by reducing the amount of water to the same extent. Weight: 563.6 g

[0170] In the following table a typical example is given for Step 2 for illustration purposes.

TABLE-US-00006 Aqua 203.0 g  Sodium hydroxide, 30% in water 213.6 g  Glycine 120.0 g  Ascorbic acid 4.0 g Sodium sulfite 3.0 g Disodium-EDTA 2.0 g 1-Hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate 6.0 g p-Aminophenol 2.0 g Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate 1.0 g m-Aminophenol 9.0 g Total weight of Step 2 563.6 g 

Step 3:

[0171] While stirring, the solution from step 2 was added to the dispersion of step 1. Then the obtained mixture was maintained at 40° C. for 10 minutes, whereby the mixture was homogenized again to obtain the tint composition. Total weight: 1000 g.

[0172] After further cooling to room temperature (e.g. 20-25° C.), the resulting cream was filled into tubes.

Example 10: Field Test

[0173] Various color shades of the inventive composition were evaluated in more than 30 salon tests. Tests were carried out as half-head tests vs. established color brands for direct comparison. One half of each model's hair (e.g. left side) was treated with a reference coloring composition and the other half of the hair (e.g. right side) was treated with a cosmetic coloring composition of the invention. The developer compositions of the reference brands were used according to the instructions for use; the peroxide strength of the inventive composition was identical to the hydrogen peroxide strength of the reference.

[0174] The tests comprised handling all steps of a color treatment in a salon, starting from the preparation of the ready-to-use composition, application to the hair and the on-head properties, removal of the cream from the hair after processing, and finally the dye performance.

[0175] Besides natural shades which are normally based on benzoaromatic dyes, fashioned shades comprising the heterocyclic 1-Hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate, which is known for its pronounced activity and dye performance, were also evaluated. The tested parameters and properties are considered of importance for professional use. In Table 6, scoring was in accordance with the criteria: [0176] 1 very poor, arduous [0177] 2 poor, laborious, tedious [0178] 3 average [0179] 4 good, easy [0180] 5 very good, very easy

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 6 Invention Koleston Perfect Tris(hydroxymethyl)- Ammonium INOA amino-methane/ hydroxide Monoethanolamine Glycine Evaluation by Evaluation by Evaluation by Alkalizer hairdressers Scoring hairdressers Scoring hairdressers Scoring Extrusion of the tint arduous due to 1 easy 4 easy 4 compact cream consistency Mixing with developer laborious 2 easy 4 very easy 5 Application tedious due to 2 easy 4 very easy 5 stickiness On head dilution with tedious due to 2 average 3 very easy 5 water and even distribution cream stickiness to lengths and tips Rinsing after processing tedious due to 2 very poor (1) 1 shampoo-like, 5 cream stickiness very easy Hair condition after poor 2 good 4 very good 5 rinsing Softness of the hair average 3 good 4 very soft 5 Hair condition after good 4 very good 5 very good 5 application of a mask Care effect after shampooing average 3 noticeable 4 noticeable 4 3x Lift, lightening very good 5 good 4 good 4 Grey coverage very good 5 very good 5 very good 5 Root-to-tip evenness, very good 5 very good 5 very good 5 natural shades Look of the coloration “bold” 2 very natural 5 very natural 5 Root-to-tip evenness, lengths and tips 4 not available, —/— perfectly even 5 fashioned shades (2) of longer hair not rated noticeably more intense than the root part Overall points 42 52 67 Rating (overall points/ 3.0 4.0 4.8 number of tests) (1): specific shampoo required (2): shades comprising 1-Hydroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole sulfate

[0181] Koleston Perfect is a trademark of Wella, INOA of L'Oreal. The applicability of all Koleston Perfect- and all INOA-product is similar to that shown in the table.

[0182] Tests were performed via blind testing using visual, sensorial and haptic examination by an experienced, professional hairdresser. All of these tests were performed by the same individual, under similar ambient conditions and in direct comparison (at the same time).

Test Methods

[0183] Tests no. 1-7 and 9 were performed via blind testing using visual, sensorial and haptic examination by an experienced, professional hairdresser. All of these tests were performed by the same individual, under similar ambient conditions and in direct comparison (at the same time).

Test No. 8: Delta E (ΔE)

[0184] Colorimetric measurements were made before and after the treatment of the hair, using a Konica Minolta Chroma Meter CR-200 in the L*a*b*-system. According to this system, L* indicates the brightness of the color (0 yields black and 100 indicates white). The chromaticity coordinates are expressed by the parameters a* and b*. The a* axis extends from green (−a) to red (+a) and the b* axis from blue (−b) to yellow (+b).

[0185] The change of color, lightening and/or coloring, is represented by the difference of color ΔE between the hair before and after the treatment. A high value indicates a high change in color. ΔE corresponds to the equation

ΔE=[(L.sub.1−L.sub.0).sup.2+(a.sub.1−a.sub.0).sup.2+(b.sub.1−b.sub.0).sup.2].sup.1/2

wherein the index 0 stands for a sample before the treatment and the index 1 for a sample after the treatment.

REFERENCE NUMERALS

[0186] (1) head [0187] (2) (virtual) line between left side and right side of head [0188] L left side of head [0189] R right side of head