Cut for gemstone

Abstract

The invention relates to a gemstone cut, comprising a crown having a flat table and main crown facets (10-12) being arranged around the table (1) and being inclined relative to the table, a girdle (5) at which the gemstone has its largest transverse dimension, and a pavilion adjoining the girdle from below the girdle and having main pavilion facets (7) around the girdle, whereby the number of the main pavilion facets is odd. The invention also relates to an article comprising a gemstone according to the invention and a method for improving the optical properties of a gemstone.

Claims

1. A gemstone, comprising a) a crown having a flat table and main crown facets being arranged around the table and being inclined relative to the table, b) a girdle at which the gemstone has its largest transverse dimension, and c) a pavilion adjoining the girdle from below the girdle and having main pavilion facets around the girdle, characterized in that the main pavilion facets have the same size and shape and adjoin the girdle along a side of the main pavilion facet, and wherein the number of the main pavilion facets is 7 and the number of the main crown facets differs from the number of the main pavilion facets.

2. The gemstone as set forth in claim 1, wherein the number of the main crown facets is even.

3. The gemstone according to claim 1, wherein the number of the main crown facets is 8, 10 or 12.

4. The gemstone as set forth in claim 1, wherein the number of the main crown facets is 9 or 11.

5. The gemstone according to claim 1, wherein the refractive index is (a) at least about 1.45; or (b) at least about 1.5 and not more than about 1.8.

6. The gemstone according to claim 1, wherein the gemstone is made of topaz, glass ceramic, glass, quartz, garnet, or corundum.

7. The gemstone according to claim 1, wherein the angle of the main pavilion facets of the gemstone with respect to the table plane is (a) between about 41° and about 45°; or (b) between about 42° and about 44.5°.

8. The gemstone according to claim 1, wherein a second type of pavilion facets adjoins the girdle and the main pavilion facets.

9. The gemstone as set forth in claim 8, wherein the angle of the second type of pavilion facets of the gemstone with respect to the table plane is (a) between about 45° and about 48°; or (b) between about 46° and about 47.5°.

10. The gemstone according to claim 8, wherein a third type of pavilion facets adjoins the main pavilion facets and form a point or a rounded point.

11. The gemstone as set forth in claim 10, wherein the angle of the third type of pavilion facets of the gemstone with respect to the table plane is (a) between about 35° and about 40°; or (b) between about 37.5° and about 39.5°.

12. An article, comprising a gemstone according to claim 1.

13. A method for improving the optical properties of a gemstone, the gemstone having: a) a crown having a flat table and main crown facets being arranged around the table and being inclined relative to the table, b) a girdle at which the gemstone has its largest transverse dimension, and c) a pavilion adjoining the girdle from below the girdle and having main pavilion facets around the girdle, the method comprising cutting the gemstone to provide an odd number of 7 main pavilion facets and a different number of main crown facets; and wherein the main pavilion facets have the same size and shape and adjoin the girdle along a side of the main pavilion facet.

14. The method as set forth in claim 13, wherein the gemstone is cut to provide an even number of main crown facets.

15. The method as set forth in claim 13, wherein the gemstone is cut to provide 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 main crown facets.

16. A gemstone, comprising a) a crown having a flat table and main crown facets being arranged around the table and being inclined relative to the table, b) a girdle at which the gemstone has its largest transverse dimension, and c) a pavilion adjoining the girdle from below the girdle and having main pavilion facets around the girdle, characterized in that the main pavilion facets have the same size and shape and adjoin the girdle along a side of the main pavilion facet, and wherein the number of the main pavilion facets is odd and the number of the main crown facets is even.

17. The gemstone according to claim 16, wherein the number of main pavilion facets is 7.

18. The gemstone according to claim 16, wherein the number of the main crown facets is 8, 10 or 12.

19. The gemstone according to claim 16, wherein the gemstone is made of topaz, glass ceramic, glass, quartz, garnet or corundum.

Description

FIGURES

(1) Further details and advantages of the present invention are described more fully hereinafter by means of the specific description with reference to the drawings.

(2) FIGS. 1a to 1c show, respectively, a plan view, a side view and a view from below of a gemstone according to the invention with 7 main pavilion facets and 8 main crown facets (termed ‘cut C8P7’ herein).

(3) FIGS. 2a to 2c show, respectively, a plan view, a side view and a view from below of a gemstone according to the invention with 7 main pavilion facets and 7 main crown facets (termed ‘cut C7P7’ herein).

(4) FIGS. 3a to 3c show, respectively, a plan view, a side view and a view from below of a gemstone with 8 main pavilion facets and 8 main crown facets (termed ‘cut C8P8’ herein).

(5) FIG. 4 is a schematic illustration of an arrangement to illuminate a gemstone and to calculate the light return of the gemstone.

(6) FIG. 5 is a schematic illustration of an arrangement to illuminate a gemstone and measure the fire of the gemstone.

(7) The reference signs in the figures have the following meaning: (1), (9) or (17): table (2), (10) or (18): second type of crown facet (star facet) (3), (11) or (19): main crown facets (4), (12) or (20): third type of crown facet (upper girdle facet) (5), (13) or (21): girdle (6), (14) or (22): second type of pavilion facet (7), (15) or (23): main pavilion facets (8), (16) or (24): third type of pavilion facet (25): position of the gemstone for measuring its light return (26): base circle of the light return setup (27): hemisphere (28): incident light beams (29): open part of the hemisphere (30) observing center part (α): aperture angle of the open part of the hemisphere (29) (β): aperture angle of the observing center part (30) to determine the light return (31): position of the gemstone for measuring its fire (32): position of the light source (33): reflected light beams (34): observing surface to calculate the fire

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

(8) The term ‘brilliance’ encompasses the so-called ‘fire’ and the ‘light return’ of a gemstone. The ‘fire’ of a gemstone is a measure of the ability of the gemstone to separate an incident white light into its spectral components (v.i.). The ‘light return’ of a gemstone is a measure of how much of an incident light reflects back to the viewer in a predefined solid angle range substantially along the axis of symmetry of the gemstone (v.i.). A further characteristic quantity of the optical properties of a gemstone is the ‘scintillation’, which is a measure of the brightness and the contrast of the light issuing from the gemstone. In general, for the fire, light return and scintillation, the reflection and refraction of the light within the gemstone is an important mechanism.

(9) According to the invention it has been found that crown facets within suitable angle ranges can increase the amount of the reflected light, especially the fire and the light return. Beneficially, the angle of the main crown facets with respect to the table plane may be between about 27° and about 38°, particularly between about 30° and about 34.5°. A second type of crown facet, the so-called star facet, may contribute to increasing the fire and light return and may have an angle with respect to the table plane of between about 15° and about 28.5°, particularly between about 15.5° and 27°. The number of the second type of crown facets is preferably equal to the number of the main crown facets. In some advantageous embodiments, a third type of crown facet, the so-called upper girdle facet, may be provided and may contribute to increasing the value of brilliance that is achievable. When provided, the third type of crown facet may have an angle with respect to the table plane of between about 34° and about 45°, particularly between about 36° and about 41.5°. According to embodiments of the invention the number of the third type of crown facets is preferably equal to the double number of the main crown facets.

(10) Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment the crown comprises the main crown facets with an angle with respect to the table plane between about 27° and about 38°, preferably between about 30° and about 34.5°; and a second type of crown facet with an angle with respect to the table plane between about 15° and about 28.5°; preferably between about 15.5° and 27°; and a third type of crown facet with an angle with respect to the table plane between about 34° and about 45°, preferably between about 36° and about 41.5°. A faceted cut gemstone with these three types of crown facets provides the further advantage that is has, when viewed from above (e.g. in the plan view), a geometrical shape similar to that of a brilliant cut.

(11) FIGS. 1a to 1c and 2a to 2c (v.i.) shows embodiments of a gemstone according to the invention. The gemstones include a table (1, 9), main crown facets (3, 11), a girdle (5, 13), and main pavilion facets (7, 15). According to the invention the number of the main pavilion facets (7, 15) is odd. For comparisons reasons FIGS. 3a to 3b show a gemstone cut according to the prior art, having an even number of main crown facets and an even number of main pavilion facets.

(12) According to the depicted embodiments, the girdle, which represents the largest transverse dimension of the gemstone is in the form of a narrow peripheral edge between the crown and the pavilion. Nevertheless, the girdle could also be in the form of a sharp edge. In a preferred embodiment, the girdle has an approximately round shape and then the gemstone is a so-called round gemstone.

(13) It has been found that, according to embodiments of the invention, beneficially high values of light return and fire can be achieved when the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table is between about 45% and about 70% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle, preferably between about 55% and 65%. The end of the pavilion can be in the form of a point or in the form of a rounded point, a so-called culet.

EXAMPLES

(14) A person skilled in the art understands that computer simulation programs can be used to calculate the fire and light return of different cuts of gemstones. In the following Examples, the simulation program used was the ray tracing software SPEOS from OPTIS. This is a well-known computer program, which is used in different technical fields of optics, e.g. in the automotive industry to assay headlamps. Another applicable ray tracing computer program would be, for instance, TracePro from Lambda Research. For the sake of completeness, it should be appreciated that gemstones can also be physically assayed using appropriate apparatus, as is known to the skilled person in the art. In the following examples, the refractive index of the gemstone material used during the computer simulations had a value of n=1.62.

(15) Light Return

(16) The simulation setup to calculate light return encompasses a diffuse light source to allow light to illuminate the gemstone evenly from all appropriate directions. For this reason, a hemispherical illumination arrangement, as shown in FIG. 4, was used. The gemstone (25) was arranged at the center of a base circle (26) of a hemisphere (27) in a way such that the crown of the gemstone was irradiated with diffuse light (28), which was emitted from the hemisphere (27). No light was incoming on the gemstone from below the base circle (26). A central part of the hemisphere (29) with an aperture angel α of 2×23°, i.e. 46°, is ‘open’ and was excluded as a source of illumination, because this region of the hemisphere is necessary for viewing the gemstone (25) from above. Thus, the open part (29) is covered with the head of an observer (not shown). The center part of the hemisphere (27) is symmetrical about an axis through the center of the base circle (26) whereby the axis is perpendicular to the base circle. An additional inner observing center part (30) at the center of the open part (29), with an aperture angle β of 2×1.5°, i.e. 3°, is used to determine the value of the reflected light return with regard to the incident light. The observing center part (30) of the hemisphere (27) is also arranged symmetrically about the axis through the center of the base circle whereby the axis is perpendicular to the base circle. This is a concept of light return which is known by a person skilled in the art and is used by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

(17) Fire

(18) FIG. 5 shows the simulation setup to obtain the fire of a gemstone (31) by measurement and calculation. The gemstone (31) was illuminated by a light source (32), which was a directed white light source. The aperture angle of the light source (32) was 2×0.25°, i.e. 0.5°. Light beams (33) are reflected by the gemstone. Due to its reflection by the gemstone the incident white light is separated into its components and the reflected light beams (33) hit an observing surface (34). The size of the observing surface (34) was in this simulation 1 m×1 m, and the distance from the gemstone was 0.5 m from the center of the observing surface (34) to the table of the gemstone measured in an axial direction perpendicular to the plane of the observing surface (34). A person skilled in the art readily understands and knows how to employ such methods. From the light distribution captured on the observing surface (34) the saturation and the illuminance of the reflected light beams was calculated. The product values of saturation and illuminance of the reflected light beams are totaled and in relation to the totaled illuminance values thus give the value for the fire, i.e.:
Fire=100×((Σ(saturation×illuminance))/(Σilluminance)).

(19) Results

Example 1

(20) A gemstone having a prior art number of crown and pavilion facets; in this case, 8 main crown facets and 8 main pavilion facets (termed C8P8 herein), see FIGS. 3a to 3c, was simulated and assayed.

(21) The main parameters of the C8P8 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table (FIG. 3a, 17) was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets (FIG. 3c, 23) was 8 and their angle was 43.56°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets (FIG. 3c, 22) was 8 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets (FIG. 3c, 24) was 8 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets (FIG. 3a, 19) was 8 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets (FIG. 3a, 18) was 8 and their angle was 20.07° The number of the third type of crown facets (FIG. 3a, 20) was 16 and their angle was 39.53°.

(22) Using the assays described herein, the calculated light return was 0.0375% and the calculated fire was 28.743%.

Example 2

(23) A gemstone according to the invention, having 7 main crown facets and 7 main pavilion facets, termed C7P7 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an odd number of crown facets), as depicted in FIGS. 2a to 2c was simulated and assayed.

(24) The main parameters of the C7P7 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table (FIG. 2a, 9) was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets (FIG. 2c, 15) was 7 and their angle was 42.59°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets (FIG. 2c, 14) was 7 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets (FIG. 2c, 16) was 7 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets (FIG. 2a, 11) was 7 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets (FIG. 2a, 10) was 7 and their angle was 16.14° The number of the third type of crown facets (FIG. 2a, 12) was 14 and their angle was 41.02°.

(25) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.2311% and the calculated fire was 54.225%. Thus, the C7P7 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 6.16 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone, and approx. 1.89 times more fire than the cut C8P8.

Example 3

(26) A gemstone according to the invention, having 8 main crown facets and 7 main pavilion facets, termed C8P7 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an even number of crown facets), as depicted in FIGS. 1a to 1c was simulated and assayed. The main parameters of the C8P7 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table (FIG. 1a, 1) was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets (FIG. 1c, 7) was 7 and their angle was 42.59°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets (FIG. 1c, 6) was 7 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets (FIG. 1c, 8) was 7 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets (FIG. 1a, 3) was 8 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets (FIG. 1a, 2) was 8 and their angle was 20.07°. The number of the third type of crown facets (FIG. 1a, 4) was 16 and their angle was 39.53°.

(27) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.2078% and the calculated fire was 54.033%. Thus, the C8P7 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 5.54 times more the light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.88 times more fire than the C8P8 gemstone.

Example 4

(28) A gemstone according to the invention, having 9 main crown facets and 7 main pavilion facets, termed C9P7 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an odd number of crown facets) was simulated and assayed.

(29) The main parameters of the C9P7 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 42.59°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets was 9 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets was 9 and their angle was 22.82°. The number of the third type of crown facets was 18 and their angle was 38.41°.

(30) Using the assays described herein, the calculated light return was 0.2097% and the calculated fire was 53.360%. Thus, the C9P7 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 5.59 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.86 times more fire than the C8P8 gemstone.

Example 5

(31) A gemstone according to the invention, having 10 main crown facets and 7 main pavilion facets, termed C10P7 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an even number of crown facets) was simulated and assayed.

(32) The main parameters of the C10P7 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table) was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 42.59°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets was 10 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets was 10 and their angle was 24.81°. The number of the third type of crown facets was 20 and their angle was 37.56°.

(33) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.2198% and the calculated fire was 52.887%. Thus, the C10P7 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 5.86 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.84 times more fire than the cut C8P8 gemstone.

Example 6

(34) A gemstone according to the invention, having 11 main crown facets and 7 main pavilion facets, termed C11P7 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an odd number of crown facets) was simulated and assayed.

(35) The main parameters of the C11P7 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 42.59°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets was 11 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets was 11 and their angle was 26.28°. The number of the third type of crown facets was 22 and their angle was 36.9°.

(36) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.1924% and the calculated fire was 52.047%. Thus the C11P7 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 5.13 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.81 times more fire than the C8P8 gemstone.

Example 7

(37) A gemstone according to the invention, having 12 main crown facets and 7 main pavilion facets, termed C12P7 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an even number of crown facets) was simulated and assayed.

(38) The main parameters of the C12P7 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 42.59°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets was 7 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets was 12 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets was 12 and their angle was 27.41°. The number of the third type of crown facets was 24 and their angle was 36.38°.

(39) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.2012% and the calculated fire was 52.182%. Thus, the C12P7 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 5.37 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.82 times more fire than the C8P8 gemstone.

Example 8

(40) A gemstone according to the invention, having 8 main crown facets and 9 main pavilion facets, termed C8P9 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an even number of crown facets) was simulated and assayed.

(41) The main parameters of the C8P9 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets was 9 and their angle was 44.40°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets was 9 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets was 9 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets was 8 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets was 8 and their angle was 20.07°. The number of the third type of crown facets was 16 and their angle was 39.53°.

(42) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.0834% and the calculated fire was 38.883%. Thus, the C8P9 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 2.22 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.35 times more fire than the C8P8 gemstone.

Example 9

(43) A gemstone according to the invention, having 10 main crown facets and 9 main pavilion facets, termed C10P9 (i.e. having an odd number of pavilion facets and an even number of crown facets) was simulated and assayed.

(44) The main parameters of the C10P9 gemstone were as follows: The diameter of the circumscribed circle of the table was 56.9% of the diameter of the circumscribed circle of the girdle. The number of main pavilion facets was 9 and their angle was 44.40°. The number of the second type of pavilion facets was 9 and their angle was 46.55°. The number of the third type of pavilion facets was 9 and their angle was 38.55° The number of the main crown facets was 10 and their angle was 33.33°. The number of the second type of crown facets was 10 and their angle was 24.81°. The number of the third type of crown facets was 20 and their angle was 37.56°.

(45) Using the assay systems described herein, the calculated light return was 0.0873% and the calculated fire was 41.027%. Thus, the C10P9 gemstone of the invention exhibits approx. 2.33 times more light return than the C8P8 gemstone and approx. 1.43 times more fire than the C8P8 gemstone.

(46) Accordingly, gemstones according to the invention, in particular, gemstones having an odd number (e.g. 7 or 9) main pavilion facets exhibit improved optical properties—especially in relation to fire and light return, when compared to similar gemstones having an even number (e.g. 8) main pavilion facets.