Cosmetic composition comprising mattifying fillers and a silane

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising an aqueous phase, at least one mattifying filler and at least one silane corresponding to formula (I) below and/or oligomers thereof: R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R3).sub.x(OH).sub.y(I) in which: •Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with an amine group NH2 or NHR (R=C1-C20 and especially C1-C6 alkyl, C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic); or with a hydroxyl group, a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is substituted or unsubstituted; Ri possibly being interrupted with a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), •R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, •y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and •z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and •x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, •with z+x+y=3, The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials comprising a step of applying a composition according to one of the preceding claims to the said materials.

Claims

1. A cosmetic process for treating skin, wherein scalp is excluded from the skin to be treated which comprises applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising: an aqueous phase, at least one mattifying filler, which are chosen from hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, and at least one silane corresponding to formula (I) below and/or oligomer thereof:
R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R.sub.3).sub.x(OH).sub.y  (I) in which: R.sub.1 represents an alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms, R.sub.2 represents lower alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms R.sub.3 represents lower alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms z is equal to 3 y and x are equal to 0 the at least one silane of formula (I) and/or oligomer thereof is present from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least octyltriethoxysilane.

3. The cosmetic process according to claim 1, wherein the silane(s) of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof are present in a content ranging from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic process according to claim 1, wherein the at least one mattifying filler are chosen from hydrophobic aerogel particles with a specific surface area per unit of mass (SM) ranging from 200 to 1500 m.sup.2/g, and a size expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm and/or an oil-absorbing capacity measured at the Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles.

5. The cosmetic process according claim 1, wherein the at least one mattifying filler represent from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic process according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.2 represents an ethyl group, and R.sub.3 represents methyl or ethyl groups.

7. The cosmetic process according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.1 represents an octyl group.

8. The cosmetic process according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises at least one silane selected from the group consisting of octyltriethoxysilane, dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) The following compositions were prepared:

(2) TABLE-US-00001 A B* PHASE A Water qs 100 qs 100 Preserving agents qs qs PHASE B Glycerol 10 10 Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP 0.5 0.5 from Rhodia) PHASE C Octyltriethoxysilane 10 Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt 10 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 2 2 stearate (Arlacel 165-FL from Uniqema) PHASE D Perlite 1 1 PHASE E Denatured ethanol 7 7 *Composition according to the invention

(3) Procedure:

(4) Once the preserving system has been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add phase B to phase A with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize phase C (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures (A+B) and C are homogeneous, form the emulsion in a conventional manner by adding C to (A+B) with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize until a smooth gel is obtained. Add D and homogenize for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm and then introduce E.

(5) For each of the compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.

(6) The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are conditioned in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products.

(7) Within the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panellist. Fifteen experts evaluated the glidance in the following manner: on a hand precleaned with water and liquid soap and wiped dry with a tissue, 0.05 ml of product is applied to the top half of the hand (five cycles with the index and middle fingers). The product is evaluated during the five passes, and 2 minutes after application.

(8) The experts evaluated the following parameters: Glidance on application The final softness and comfort of the skin, after penetration

(9) The descriptors were evaluated on a scale at five levels: None, Sparingly, Moderately, Quite, Very.

(10) The descriptor “glidance” is defined as being the ease of application of the product, its ability to cover a defined area and the capacity of the product not to drag on the skin during application.

(11) Results obtained on a panel of 15 experts:

(12) TABLE-US-00002 Formulation A B* Glidance on application 3/15: none 2/15: quite 12/15: sparingly 13/15: very Softness of the Sparingly (10/15) Very (14/15) application skin None (5/15) Quite (1/15)

(13) The comparative evaluation of these two formulations shows that the formulation according to the invention (formulation B*) spreads more easily and makes the skin softer at the end when compared with the silane-free formulation.

EXAMPLE 2

(14) An emulsion containing a clay was prepared.

(15) TABLE-US-00003 A B* PHASE A Water qs 100 qs 100 Preserving agents qs qs PHASE B Glycerol 10 10 Montmorillonite 5 5 (Kunipia G4 from Kunimine) PHASE C Octyltriethoxysilane 5 Hydrogenated polyisobutene 5 5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 3 3 stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) *Composition according to the invention

(16) Procedure:

(17) Using a Rayneri blender, delaminate the montmorillonite for one hour in a sufficient amount of water, while keeping it hot (phase B). As regards phase A, once the preserving system has been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add phase A to phase B with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize phase C (at the temperature necessary—water bath—to have a homogeneous liquid phase). Emulsify: phase (A+B) in phase C with a mixer. Cool in a bath of ice+water with Rayneri blending.

(18) Results obtained on a panel of 15 experts:

(19) TABLE-US-00004 Formulation A B* Glidance on application 3/15: none 2/15: quite 12/15: sparingly 13/15: very Skin softness after penetration Sparingly (9/15) Very (14/15) None (6/15) Quite (1/15)

(20) The comparative evaluation of these two formulations shows that the formulation according to the invention (formulation B*) spreads more easily and makes the skin softer at the end when compared with the silane-free formulation.

EXAMPLE 3

(21) A moisturizing gel for greasy skin was prepared.

(22) TABLE-US-00005 PHASE A Water qs 100 Preserving agents qs Glycerol 10 Moisturizing active agents 5 Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 2 (Hostacerin AMPS ® from Clariant) PHASE B Octyltriethoxysilane 8 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 5 Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 1 stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) PHASE C Methylsilanol/silicate crosspolymer 3 (NLK 506 from Takemoto) Silica microspheres (Silica Beads 1.5 SB700 from Miyoshi Kasei)

(23) Procedure:

(24) Homogenize phases A and B at 70° C. Emulsify by pouring the fatty phase B into the aqueous phase. Cool to room temperature and disperse the fillers with stirring of Rayneri turbomixer type.

(25) A cream gel that is pleasant to apply is obtained, which leaves the skin soft, matt and moisturized.

EXAMPLE 4

(26) The following composition was prepared:

(27) TABLE-US-00006 A B (invention) PHASE A Water qs 100 qs 100 Preserving agents qs qs PHASE B Glycerol 10 10 Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP 0.5 0.5 from Rhodia) PHASE C Octyltriethoxysilane — 10 Polydimethylsiloxane 5 cSt 10 — Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 2 2 stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) PHASE D Hydrophobic silica aerogel (VM-2270 1 1 from Dow Corning) PHASE E Denatured ethanol 7 7

(28) Procedure:

(29) Once the preserving system has been dissolved in water (at the necessary temperature), add phase B to phase A with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize phase C (at the temperature necessary to have a homogeneous liquid phase). When the mixtures (A+B) and C are homogeneous, form the emulsion in a conventional manner by adding C to (A+B) with stirring using a Rayneri blender. Homogenize until a smooth gel is obtained. Add D and homogenize for 5 minutes at 1000 rpm and then introduce E.

(30) For each of the compositions, the cosmetic properties were evaluated according to the following protocol.

(31) The cosmetic properties on application are evaluated, monadically, by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products. The sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are conditioned in opaque jars or pump-dispenser bottles depending on the viscosity of the products.

(32) Within the same session, the samples are presented in random order to each panellist. Fifteen experts evaluated the glidance in the following manner: on a hand precleaned with water and liquid soap and wiped dry with a tissue, 0.05 ml of product is applied to the top half of the hand (five cycles with the index and middle fingers). The product is evaluated during the five passes, and 2 minutes after application. The experts evaluated the following parameters: Glidance on application the coarse effect on application (which induces difficulty in application) The final softness and comfort of the skin, after penetration

(33) The descriptors are evaluated on a scale at five levels: None, Sparingly, Moderately, Quite, Very.

(34) The descriptor “glidance” is defined as being the ease of application of the product, its ability to cover a defined area and the capacity of the product not to drag on the skin during application.

(35) Results obtained on a panel of 15 experts:

(36) TABLE-US-00007 Formulation A B* Glidance on application 2/15: none 3/15: quite 13/15: sparingly 12/15: very Rasping/coarse effect Very (12/15) None (13/15) on application Quite (3/12) Sparingly (2/15) Comfort/softness after Sparingly (8/15) Very (14/15) penetration None (7/15) Quite (1/15)

(37) The comparative evaluation of these two formulations indicates that the formulation according to the invention (formulation B*) spreads very easily on application when compared with the formulation containing a volatile silicone in place of the silane. There is no rasping effect and the skin is very soft after application and drying of the composition according to the invention.