Oxidizing composition for treating keratin materials, comprising a fatty substance and oxyalkylenated surfactants

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one fatty substance in a content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE), nonionic surfactant comprising a number of OA units, preferably OE units, ranging from 1 to 9, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated (OE), nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably OE units, the weight ratio of the amount of oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactant(s) comprising a number of OA units, preferably OE units, ranging from 1 to 9 to the amount of oxyalkylenated (OA), preferably oxyethylenated, nonionic surfactants comprising at least 10 OA units, preferably OE units, being greater than 1, at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. The composition in accordance with the invention may be used for dyeing, bleaching or permanently reshaping keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres. It produces ready-to-use compositions that give good dyeing, bleaching or permanent-reshaping properties without degrading the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, and without impairing their cosmetic properties.

Claims

1. A composition for treating keratin materials, the composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: at least one fatty substance, present in an amount greater than or equal to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units to the amount of the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, is greater than 1, wherein the composition comprises no hair dye, wherein the composition is stable for at least two months at 45° C., and wherein the composition is an oxidizing composition.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, and the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C.sub.12-C.sub.22 oxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, and the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, are chosen from C.sub.14-C.sub.20 oxyethylenated fatty alcohols.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, comprises from 10 to 50 oxyalkylene groups.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units is Steareth-20.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, comprises from 2 to 8 oxyethylenated (OE) units.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units is Steareth-2.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 oxyalkylene groups is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is chosen from compounds that are liquid at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure, or oil.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, containing more than 16 carbon atoms.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one fatty substance is present in an amount greater than or equal to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.

16. The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one chemical oxidizing agent is present in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. A method for treating keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials an oxidizing composition, the oxidizing composition comprising: at least one fatty substance, present in an amount greater than or equal to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units to the amount of the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, is greater than 1, wherein the composition comprises no hair dye, and wherein the composition is stable for at least two months at 45° C.

18. A method for dyeing and/or lightening keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a dyeing and/or lightening composition obtained by mixing: a) at least one composition A comprising: at least one alkaline agent, optionally at least one colouring agent, and b) at least one composition B comprising: at least one fatty substance, present in an amount greater than or equal to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units, chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty alcohols, at least one oxyalkylenated (OA) nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, and at least one chemical oxidizing agent, wherein the weight ratio of the amount of the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising from 1 to 9 OA units to the amount of the at least one oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactant comprising at least 10 OA units, is greater than 1, wherein the composition B comprises no hair dye, wherein the composition B is stable for at least two months at 45° C., and wherein the composition B is an oxidation composition.

19. The method of claim 18, wherein the at least one alkaline agent is chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal bicarbonates, organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated ethylenediamines, oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, compounds of formula (II) below, or mixtures thereof: ##STR00004## wherein W is chosen from a divalent C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with at least one hydroxyl group or a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with at least one heteroatoms, or NR.sub.u; R.sub.x, R.sub.y, R.sub.z, R.sub.t, and R.sub.u, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom, a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl radical, a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydroxyalkyl radical, a C.sub.1-C.sub.6 aminoalkyl radical, amino acids in neutral form, or amino acids in ionic form.

20. The method of claim 18, wherein composition A further comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from oxidation dye precursors, direct dyes, or mixtures thereof.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

(1) The following compositions are prepared:

(2) TABLE-US-00001 A B C D E F G Composition (for 100 g) (Inv) (Inv) (comparative) (Inv) (Inv) (Inv) (Inv) Hydrogen peroxide as a 50% 12 12 12 24 24 24 24 solution (200 vol. aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution) Etidronic acid, tetrasodium 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 salt, as an aqueous 30% solution Tetrasodium pyrophosphate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 decahydrate Sodium salicylate 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Liquid petroleum jelly 45 45 45 50 50 60 60 Oxyethylenated stearyl 3.5 3.75 2.5 3.5 4.9 3.5 3.5 alcohol (2 OE) Oxyethylenated stearyl 1.5 1.25 2.5 1.5 2.1 1.5 1.5 alcohol (20 OE) Vitamin E 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Poloxamer 184 0 0 0 0 0 0 0.02 Condensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (13 EO/30 PO/13 EO) (MW 2900) (INCI: Poloxamer 184) Phosphoric acid qs pH 2 qs pH 2 qs pH 2 qs pH 2 qs pH 2 qs pH 2 qs pH 2 Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100

(3) They are placed for 2 months at 45° C. and their stability is evaluated visually.

(4) Composition C which has a 2 OE oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant/20 OE oxyethylenated nonionic surfactant weight ratio of 1 is not stable; phase separation takes place a few days after stabilizing the formulation at 45° C.

(5) Compositions A, B, D, E, F and G according to the invention are stable after 2 months at 45° C.

Example 2

(6) The following compositions are prepared (unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts are expressed in g % of product):

(7) Composition (A)

(8) TABLE-US-00002 Chemical name A1 A2 Aqueous ammonia (20% ammonia reference 19.8 11.1 concentration) Monoethanolamine 0.63 0.63 N-Oleyldihydrosphingosine 0.01 0.01 (Untreated anatase) titanium oxide coated with 0.18 0.18 polydimethylsiloxane (98/2) (CI: 77891) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50 C16/C18) 16.2 16.2 Oleyl alcohol 2.7 2.7 Poly[(dimethyliminio)-1,3-propanediyl(dimethyl- 5 5 iminio)-1,6-hexanediyl dichloride] as an aqueous 60% solution Oleic acid 2.7 2.7 Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt 2 2 as an aqueous 40% solution Ammonium thiolactate as an aqueous 58% solution 0.8 0.8 (50% thiolactic acid) Oxyethylenated oleocetyl alcohol (30 OE) 3.6 3.6 Water qs 100 qs 100

(9) Oxidizing Composition (B)

(10) TABLE-US-00003 Chemical name B2 Mineral oil 50 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 OE) 3.5 Oxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20 OE) 1.5 Vitamin E: 0.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate decahydrate 0.04 Etidronic acid, tetrasodium salt, as an aqueous 30% 0.2 solution Sodium salicylate 0.035 50% hydrogen peroxide solution 24 Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.4 Water qs 100

(11) TABLE-US-00004 Chemical name B1 80/20 Cetylstearyl alcohol/oxyethylenated (30 OE) 2.85 cetylstearyl alcohol mixture Trideceth-2 carboxamide MEA 0.85 Vitamin E: 0.2 Tetrasodium pyrophosphate decahydrate 0.02 Pentasodium pentetate as an aqueous 40% solution 0.15 Sodium stannate 0.04 50% hydrogen peroxide solution 24 Phosphoric acid qs pH 2.4 Water

(12) At the time of use, the following are mixed together: 1 part by weight of formula A2 with 2 parts by weight of formula B2 (invention) 1 part by weight of formula A1 with 2 parts by weight of formula B1 (comparative)

(13) 10 g of each mixture (pH=9.9±0.1) are applied to a 1 g chestnut-brown natural pigmented lock (TD 4). The leave-on time is 50 minutes on a hotplate regulated at 33° C.

(14) After the leave-on time, each lock is rinsed, washed with an iNOA POST shampoo and then left to dry under a hood at 60° C.

(15) The lightening of the locks is evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

(16) In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote, respectively, the intensity (L*), a* indicates the green/red colour axis and b* the blue/yellow colour axis.

(17) The variation in colouring between the locks of 90% grey natural hair that are untreated (control) and after treatment are defined by (ΔE*ab) according to the following equation:
ΔE*=√{square root over ((a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

(18) In this equation, L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on locks of hair after dyeing and L.sub.0*, a.sub.0* and b.sub.0* represent the values measured on locks of undyed virgin hair. The greater the value of ΔE*, the better the lightening.

(19) Results

(20) TABLE-US-00005 ΔE*ab L* (D65) a* (D65) b* (D65) (D65) Untreated hair 22.06 2.95 3.52 — Hair treated with A1 + B1 37.56 11.33 21.21 24.96 Hair treated with A2 + B2 39.94 11.55 23.4 28.09

(21) As shown in the table below, the mixture A2+B2 according to the invention lightens better than the comparative mixture A1+B1. Furthermore, since the composition of the invention comprises 44% less ammonium hydroxide, it gives off a less aggressive ammonia odour.

Example 3

(22) The following compositions were prepared:

(23) Dye Composition

(24) TABLE-US-00006 Chemical name A3 Aqueous ammonia (20% ammonia reference concentration) 11.1 Monoethanolamine 0.63 N-Oleyldihydrosphingosine 0.01 Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50 C16/C18) 16.2 Oleyl alcohol 2.7 Poly[(dimethyliminio)-1,3-propanediyl(dimethyliminio)-1,6- 5 hexanediyl dichloride] as an aqueous 60% solution Oleic acid 2.7 Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt as an 2 aqueous 40% solution Ammonium thiolactate as an aqueous 58% solution (50% 0.54 thiolactic acid) Oxyethylenated (30 OE) oleocetyl alcohol 3.6 1-Methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene 0.06 1-Hydroxy-4-aminobenzene 0.0085 N,N-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate 0.01 monohydrate 1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 0.07 1-Hydroxy-3-aminobenzene 0.006 1-Beta-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diaminobenzene dihydrochloride 0.003 Deionized water qs 100

(25) The oxidizing agent B2 described above is used.

(26) At the time of use, 1 part by weight of formula A3 is mixed with 2 parts by weight of formula B2.

(27) 10 g of the mixture (pH=9.8) are applied to a 1 g light chestnut-brown natural pigmented lock (TD 8). The leave-on time is 50 minutes on a hotplate regulated at 33° C.

(28) After the leave-on time, each lock is rinsed, washed with an iNOA POST shampoo and then left to dry under a hood at 60° C.

(29) The colouring of the lock is evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

(30) A luminous golden-blonde colour is obtained.

(31) TABLE-US-00007 ΔE*ab L* (D65) a* (D65) b* (D65) (D65) Untreated hair 43.32 7.71 18.71 — Hair treated with A3 + B2 57.62 6.21 23.23 15.06