Solid cosmetic composition with a moisturizing effect

Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion, for example a lipstick, a lip balm, a foundation or a concealer. It also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for or making up the lips or the skin, including the topical application to the lips or the skin of this composition.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a solid water-in-oil emulsion comprising: a non-ionic alkyl phosphate; a base; a humectant; 4% to 20% by weight of water based on the weight of the composition; 8 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a structuring agent selected from the group consisting of beeswax, candelilla wax, a mixture of ethylene/propylene copolymer and synthetic wax, a mixture of jojoba esters, polyglycerin-3, acacacia decurrens flower wax, sunflower seed wax, an oily gellant, and mixtures thereof; an oil; wherein the composition is liquid when heated at a temperature greater than 50° C. and up to 110° C.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 8% by weight of water based on the weight of the composition.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.5 to 5% by weight of a non ionic alkyl phosphate based on the weight of the composition, wherein the non-ionic alkyl phosphate is cetyl phosphate.

4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 3, comprising, 1 to 2.5% by weight, of non-ionic alkyl phosphate based on the weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 0.2 to 2.5% by weight of base based on the weight of the composition, wherein the base is a basic amino acid.

6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 5, comprising 0.5 to 1% by weight of base based on the weight of the composition, wherein the base is arginine.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 1 to 30% by weight of humectant based on the weight of the composition, wherein the humectant is selected from glycerol, a glycol, and mixtures thereof.

8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, comprising, 5 to 20% by weight, of humectant based on the weight of the composition.

9. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, comprising 8 to 15% by weight, of humectant based on the weight of the composition.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising up to 30% by weight of water based on the weight of the composition.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the structuring agent is a mixture of at least one wax having a melting point below 70° C. and one wax having a melting point from 70° C. to 110° C.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising 20 to 80% by weight of oil based on the weight of the composition, wherein the oil is selected from squalane, diisostearyl malate, a mixture of cholesterol and lanosterol esters, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, dicaprylyl carbonate, a mixture of undecane and tridecane, isononyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

13. Cosmetic method for caring for or making up the lips or the skin, comprising the topical application to the lips or the skin of the composition as claimed in claim 1.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

(1) The invention will be described in connected with the included drawings, in which:

(2) FIG. 1 represents the difference in corneometric index (Δci) as a function of time after application of the lip balm prepared in example 1, and

(3) FIG. 2 represents the difference in corneometric index (Δci) as a function of time after application of the foundation prepared in example 2.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

(4) The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

EXAMPLE 1

Lip Balm According to the Invention

(5) A lip balm comprising the following ingredients (amounts expressed as percentages by weight based on the weight of the composition) was prepared:

(6) TABLE-US-00001 REF. INCI TRADE NAME AMOUNT 101 CETYL PHOSPHATE NIKKOL PUREPHOS 1.5 ALPHA 102 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 4811 10.0 201 AQUA (WATER) EAU DEMINERALISEE 10.0 202 ARGININE L-ARGININE 0.75 203 PHENOXYETHANOL SEPICIDE LD 0.40 301 SQUALANE NIKKOL OLIVE 14.5 SQUALANE 302 DIISOSTEARYL MALATE SALACOS 222 24.5 303 C10-30 CHOLESTEROL/LANOSTEROL ESTERS & SUPER STEROL 18.35 TOCOPHEROL ESTER-SO 304 SYNTHETIC WAX & ETHYLENE/PROPYLENE LIPWAX PZ80-20 5.0 COPOLYMER 305 CERA ALBA (BEESWAX) CERABEIL BLANCHE 5.0 306 PHYTOSTERYL/OCTYLDODECYL LAUROYL ELDEW PS-203 10.0 GLUTAMATE

(7) The process of preparation of the lip balm is detailed below: heat 101 and 102 at 75-80° C. with mixing at 100 rpm to form phase (1), heat 201, 202 and 203 at 75-80° C. to form phase (2), add (2) in (1) in a Deflo disperser (RAYNERI TURBOTEST 33/300P), heat 301, 302, 303, 304 and 305 at 105° C. to form phase (3), add (3) in (1+2) in small portions with mixing at 500 rpm until a uniform gel is obtained (approximately 10 min), increase the mixing speed to 700 rpm and mix for 5 min.

EXAMPLE 2

Foundation According to the Invention

(8) A foundation comprising the following ingredients (amounts expressed as percentages by weight based on the weight of the composition) was prepared:

(9) TABLE-US-00002 REF. INCI TRADE NAME AMOUNT 101 CETYL PHOSPHATE NIKKOL 1.5 PUREPHOS ALPHA 102 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 4811 10.0 201 AQUA (WATER) EAU 10.0 DEMINERALISEE 202 ARGININE L-ARGININE 0.75 203 PHENOXYETHANOL SEPICIDE LD 0.40 301 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE CETIOL CC 17.14 302 CANDELILLA CERA (EUPHORBIA CERIFERA CANDELILLA WAX 8.0 (CANDELILLA) WAX) & BENZYL ALCOHOL CG-7 303 JOJOBA ESTERS & POLYGLYCERIN-3 & ACACIA ACTICIRE 8.0 DECURRENS FLOWER WAX & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS CERA SEED (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) 305 CERA ALBA (BEESWAX) CERABEIL 4.0 BLANCHE 306 SUCROSE TETRASTEARATE TRIACETATE SISTERNA A10E-C 2.0 307 BORON NITRIDE BORONEIGE 901 1.0 308 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE & BHT PARSOL MCX 5.0 401 SQUALANE NEOSSANCE 6.14 SQUALANE 402 CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) & ALUMINUM ASL-1 TIO2 CR- 7.735 HYDROXIDE & SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE & 50 LYSINE & MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE 403 CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES) & SODIUM LAUROYL ASL-1 BLACK 0.325 GLUTAMATE & LYSINE & MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE BL-100P 404 CI 77492 (IRON OXIDES) & SODIUM LAUROYL ASL-1 YELLOW 1.885 GLUTAMATE & LYSINE & MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE LL-100P 405 CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES) & SODIUM LAUROYL ASL-1 RED R- 0.455 GLUTAMATE & LYSINE & MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE 516P 406 TITANIUM DIOXIDE & STEARIC ACID & ALUMINA & UV-TITAN M160 7.0 SILICA 407 ZINC OXIDE & TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE OTS-5 MZ-500 2.0 408 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE CETIOL CC 6.67

(10) The process of preparation of the foundation is detailed below: heat 101 and 102 at 75-80° C. with mixing at 100 rpm to form phase (1), heat 201, 202 and 203 at 75-80° C. to form phase (2), add (2) in (1) in a Deflo disperser (RAYNERI TURBOTEST 33/300P), mill 401, 402, 403, 404, 405, 406, 407 and 408 in a tricylinder to form phase (4), heat (4) and 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307 and 308 at 95° C. to form phase (4+3), add (4+3) in (1+2) in small portions with mixing at 500 rpm until a uniform gel is obtained (approximately 10 min), increase the mixing speed to 700 rpm and mix for 5 min, degas under vacuum, pour in container at 85° C., leave at room temperature for 2 min then put in ventilated freezer at −10° C. for 2 min.

EXAMPLE 3

Concealer According to the Invention

(11) A concealer comprising the following ingredients (amounts expressed as percentages by weight based on the weight of the composition) was prepared:

(12) TABLE-US-00003 REF. INCI TRADE NAME AMOUNT 101 CETYL PHOSPHATE NIKKOL PUREPHOS 1.5 ALPHA 102 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 4811 10.0 201 AQUA (WATER) EAU 10.0 DEMINERALISEE 202 ARGININE L-ARGININE 0.75 203 PHENOXYETHANOL SEPICIDE LD 0.40 301 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE CETIOL CC 17.14 302 CANDELILLA CERA (EUPHORBIA CERIFERA CANDELILLA WAX 8.0 (CANDELILLA) WAX) & BENZYL ALCOHOL CG-7 303 JOJOBA ESTERS & POLYGLYCERIN-3 & ACACIA ACTICIRE 8.0 DECURRENS FLOWER WAX & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS CERA SEED (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) 305 CERA ALBA (BEESWAX) CERABEIL 4.0 BLANCHE 306 SUCROSE TETRASTEARATE TRIACETATE SISTERNA A10E-C 2.0 307 BORON NITRIDE BORONEIGE 901 1.0 308 ETHYLHEXYL METHOXYCINNAMATE & BHT PARSOL MCX 5.0 401 SQUALANE NEOSSANCE 6.14 SQUALANE 402 CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE) & ALUMINUM ASL-1 TIO2 CR- 7.735 HYDROXIDE & SODIUM LAUROYL GLUTAMATE & 50 LYSINE & MAGNESIUM CHLORIDE 403 CI 77742 (MANGANESE VIOLET) MANGANESE 2.665 VIOLET C 43-001 404 TITANIUM DIOXIDE & STEARIC ACID & ALUMINA & UV-TITAN M160 7.0 SILICA 405 ZINC OXIDE & TRIETHOXYCAPRYLYLSILANE OTS-5 MZ-500 2.0 406 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE CETIOL CC 6.67

(13) The process of preparation of the concealer is detailed below: heat 101 and 102 at 75-80° C. with mixing at 100 rpm to form phase (1), heat 201, 202 and 203 at 75-80° C. to form phase (2), add (2) in (1) in a Deflo disperser (RAYNERI TURBOTEST 33/300P), mill 401, 402, 403, 404, 405 and 406 in a tricylinder to form phase (4), heat (4) and 301, 302, 303, 304, 305, 306, 307 and 308 at 90° C. to form phase (4+3), add (4+3) in (1+2) in small portions with mixing at 500-600 rpm until a uniform gel is obtained (approximately 10 min).

EXAMPLE 4

Evaluation of the Moisturizing Effect of the Cosmetic Compositions of the Invention

(14) The moisturizing effect of the lip balm prepared in example 1 and the foundation prepared in example 2 are determined by corneometry.

(15) Corneometry is a technology used to measure the hydration of the outer layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum). The measurement is based on capacitance measurement of a dielectric medium. The capacitance of the skin is measured with a Corneometer® CM825 apparatus from Courage+Khazaka electronic GmbH. The Corneometer® CM 825 measures the change in the dielectric constant due to skin surface hydration changing the capacitance of a precision capacitor. The measurement can detect even slight changes in the hydration level.

(16) The measurement is performed on the skin of the inside of the forearms of 8 volunteers that have not applied any cream on the forearms at least 24 h before the test.

(17) A control area (no product is applied) of 1.5 cm×3 cm is delineated with a stencil.

(18) A test area where the cosmetic composition is applied of 5 cm×5 cm is delineated with a stencil.

(19) The cosmetic composition to be evaluated is applied on the test area in a single application with a finger glove in an amount of 2 mg/cm.sup.2, i.e. 0.05 mg of composition on the 5 cm×5 cm test area.

(20) The capacitance of the skin is measured before (T0), 30 min after (T30′), 2 hours after (T2 h) and 6 hours after (T6 h) application of the cosmetic composition.

(21) The difference in corneometric index at time i (30 min, 2 hours and 6 hours after application) is calculated as follows:
Δci.sub.i=(Ti−T0).sub.test area−(Ti−T0).sub.control area
wherein:

(22) Δci.sub.i is the difference in corneometric index at time i,

(23) (Ti−T0).sub.test area is the difference between the average of the capacitance of the test area at time i and the average of the capacitance of the test area at time T0 (before application),

(24) (Ti−T0).sub.control area is the difference between the average of the capacitance of the control area at time i and the average of the capacitance of the control area at time T0 (before application), and

(25) time i is 30 min, 2 hours or 6 hours after application of the cosmetic composition on the test area.

(26) FIG. 1 represents the difference in corneometric index (Δci) as a function of time after application of the lip balm prepared in example 1.

(27) FIG. 2 represents the difference in corneometric index (Δci) as a function of time after application of the foundation prepared in example 2.

(28) The lip balm and the foundation according to the present invention both exhibit an excellent moisturizing effect that lasts up to 6 hours after their application on the skin. Indeed, all of the values of Δci are much higher than 5 which is the threshold limit for determining the moisturizing effect of a cosmetic composition.