AQUEOUS OR AQUEOUS-ALCOHOLIC GEL OF SYNTHETIC PHYLLOSILICATES AS VISCOSITY-ENHANCING, MATT-EFFECT AND/OR APPLICATION-HOMOGENIZING AGENT
20170266087 · 2017-09-21
Assignee
Inventors
- Bouchra BOUARFA (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Véronique FERRARI (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Fabrice SPRINGINSFELD (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Mathieu CHABRILLANGEAS (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Laurence SEBILLOTTE-ARNAUD (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
- Raluca LORANT (Chevilly La Rue, FR)
Cpc classification
A61K8/0241
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/064
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
Abstract
The present invention relates to the use of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 in a cosmetic composition.
A cosmetic composition comprising such a gel and also cosmetic processes for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the nails using such an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate are also targeted.
Claims
1-24. (canceled)
25. A method for preparing a cosmetic composition using an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2.
26. The method as claimed in claim 25, in which the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is used as viscosity-enhancing agent.
27. The method as claimed in claim 25, in which the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is used as matt-effect agent.
28. The method as claimed in claim 25, in which the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is used as application-homogenizing agent.
29. The method as claimed in claim 25, in which the synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 has an x-ray diffraction line of greater than 9.4 Å and less than or equal to 9.8 Å.
30. A composition, comprising at least one aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 and at least one additional ingredient, different from said synthetic phyllosilicate gel, chosen from silicone fatty substances such as silicone oils, gums and waxes; non-silicone fatty substances such as oils, pasty substances and waxes of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin; fatty acids containing from 8 to 32 carbon atoms; synthetic esters and ethers; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms; C.sub.2-C.sub.6 alcohols; glycols; surfactants; aqueous or oily gelling agents; cosmetic active agents; fragrances; fillers; dyestuffs; vitamins; preserving agents; film-forming polymers; and mixtures thereof.
31. The composition as claimed in claim 30, in which the synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 has an x-ray diffraction line of greater than 9.4 Å and less than or equal to 9.8 Å.
32. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said composition having an infrared absorption band at 7200 cm.sup.−1, corresponding to the stretching vibration attributed to the silanol groups Si—OH at the edge of the phyllosilicate leaflets.
33. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said composition having no absorption band at 7156 cm.sup.−1.
34. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate constitutes the aqueous phase.
35. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 40% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
36. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05% to 30% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.
37. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.
38. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein the aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition.
39. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said additional ingredient being at least one constituent compound of an aqueous phase.
40. The composition as claimed in claim 39, said additional ingredient being chosen from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and polyols.
41. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said additional ingredient being at least one constituent compound of a fatty phase.
42. The composition as claimed in claim 41, said additional ingredient being chosen from a polar or apolar, volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon based or silicone oil, a wax, a pasty compound, and a mixture thereof.
43. The composition as claimed in claim 42, said oil being at least one volatile or nonvolatile silicone oil.
44. The composition as claimed in claim 42, said hydrocarbon-based oil being chosen from volatile C.sub.8-C.sub.16 hydrocarbon-based oils, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, synthetic esters, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, bearing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, C.sub.12-C.sub.22 higher fatty acids; and mixtures thereof.
45. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said additional ingredient being at least one compound chosen from nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants; fillers; gelling agents; and mixtures thereof.
46. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said gelling agent being: a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from fumed silicas, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, polymeric gelling agents that are natural or of natural origin, acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, salts thereof or esters thereof, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers, cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives, vinyl polymers and anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric associative polymers, modified or unmodified polymers of natural origin, alginates and carrageenans, glycoaminoglycans, deoxyribonucleic acid, mucopolysaccharides and chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof; a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semicrystalline polymers, hydrocarbon-based block copolymers, dextrin esters and polymers bearing hydrogen bonding, and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.
47. The composition as claimed in claim 30, said additional ingredient being at least one compound chosen from cosmetic active agents; vitamins; UV-screening agents; dyestuffs; fragrances; and mixtures thereof.
48. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein said composition is in the form of a composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the nails, of the body or of the face, and is preferably a foundation, a face powder or an eyeshadow.
49. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein said composition is a foundation, a face powder or an eyeshadow.
50. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein said composition is intended for caring for and/or making up the lips.
51. The composition as claimed in claim 30, wherein said composition is a stick, a varnish or a gloss.
52. A process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the nails, comprising at least one step of applying to said skin and/or said nails a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2.
53. The process as claimed in claim 52, in which said composition comprises at least one aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate of formula Mg.sub.3Si.sub.4O.sub.10(OH).sub.2 and at least one additional ingredient, different from said synthetic phyllosilicate gel, chosen from silicone fatty substances such as silicone oils, gums and waxes; non-silicone fatty substances such as oils, pasty substances and waxes of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin; fatty acids containing from 8 to 32 carbon atoms; synthetic esters and ethers; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin; fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms; C.sub.2-C.sub.6 alcohols; glycols; surfactants; aqueous or oily gelling agents; cosmetic active agents; fragrances; fillers; dyestuffs; vitamins; preserving agents; film-forming polymers; and mixtures thereof.
54. The process as claimed in claim 52, said process being directed toward affording a matt and/or homogeneous makeup result for the skin complexion after application.
55. The process as claimed in claim 52, said process being directed toward facilitating the spreading of the composition on the skin and toward leading to a homogeneous deposit of active agents on the skin after application.
56. The process as claimed in claim 55, wherein said active agents are chosen from cosmetic active agents; vitamins; UV-screening agents; dyestuffs; fragrances; and mixtures thereof.
Description
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Preparation of a Synthetic Phyllosilicate in Aqueous Gel Form that is Suitable for Use in the Invention
[0494] An aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is prepared according to the technology described in example 1 of patent application FR 2 977 580 from page 21, line 26 to page 22, line 29. It was thus performed up to the formation of the hydrogel without the drying and lyophilization step.
[0495] It is this aqueous gel which is used in all the examples below.
[0496] Analysis of the x-ray diffractogram was performed using the materials and method used for the x-ray diffraction analyses that are detailed in patent application FR 2 977 580.
[0497] A characteristic diffraction line at 9.77 Å is observed.
Example 2: Influence of the Nature of the Filler on the Matt Effect and Homogenizing Effect after Application of a Cosmetic Composition of Direct Emulsion Type (i.e. Oil-in-Water)
[0498] 2.1. Compositions Tested
[0499] The phyllosilicate in aqueous gel form was introduced into the aqueous phase of an oil-in-water emulsion as defined below.
[0500] The materials of phase A1 are first weighed out and then stirred using a Moritz blender without heating. Phase A2 is then added, and the mixture is then left stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
[0501] Phases A3, A4 and A5 are then added.
[0502] Phase B is melted at 68° C. and then added into the mixture A.
[0503] The mixture thus obtained is emulsified with vigorous stirring for 10 minutes.
[0504] It is finally allowed to cool to 30° C. and phases C and D are then added.
[0505] The mixture is finally tared with water.
[0506] The following compositions were thus prepared.
[0507] The percentages indicated in this table are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.
TABLE-US-00001 Composition Compo- Compo- 2 sition sition (according 3 Commercial 1 to the (compar- Starting materials references (control) invention) ative) A1 Microbiologically clean qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 deionized water 2-Phenoxyethanol 0.40% 0.40% 0.40% Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Dissolvine 0.05% 0.05% 0.05% acid, disodium salt, 2 H.sub.2O NA2-S ® (Akzo Nobel) A2 1,3-Butylene glycol 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% Xanthan gum Rhodicare 0.20% 0.00% 0.00% XC ® (Rhodia) A3 Gel of synthetic 0.00% 1.80% 0.00% phyllosilicate according (i.e. 0.20% to the invention (11% AM*) AM) in water A4 Pigments NaI pigment 17.06% 17.06% 17.06% base (Sunpuro) A5 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.25% 0.25% 0.25% in aqueous solution B Glyceryl mono/distearate/ Tego Care 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% polyethylene glycol 180 ® stearate mixture (100 EO) (Evonik Goldschmidt) Cetylstearyl alcohol 1.00% 1.00% 1.00% (50/50 C16/C18) Hydrogenated isoparaffin Parleam ® 10.0% 10.0% 10.0% (6-8 mol of isobutylene) (NOF Corporation) Polydimethylsiloxane Element14 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% (viscosity: 10 cSt) PDMS 10-A ® (Momentive Performance Materials) Mixture of crosslinked KSG 16 ® 7.00% 7.00% 7.00% polydimethylsiloxane and (Shin-Etsu) of polydimethylsiloxane (6 cSt) (24/76) C Natural talc Luzenac ® 0.00% 0.00% 0.20% Pharma M D Denatured absolute ethyl 5.00% 5.00% 5.00% alcohol TOTAL 100 100 100 *AM: Active Material
[0508] 2.2. Evaluation of the Viscosity of Compositions 1 to 3
[0509] Protocol for Measuring the Viscosity:
[0510] Procedure
[0511] 1. Thermostatization
[0512] A viscosity is significant only at a given temperature.
[0513] The measurement is taken with the assembly: product to be analyzed-cup-measuring body. It is this assembly which must be kept at the nominal temperature T ° C. 0.5° C. (in general 25° C.).
[0514] 2. Zeroing
[0515] This operation will be performed, prior to each use, according to the procedure described in the operating instructions for the machine used, which in this case is a Rheomat 100.
[0516] 3. Filling the Cup
[0517] Fill the cup carefully, taking care to avoid any destructuring of the product during its introduction into the cup.
[0518] The volume of substance to be introduced into each cup is as follows:
[0519] Cup of spindle 1: 320 mL measured;
[0520] Cup of spindle 2: up to the graduation mark, i.e. 60 ml;
[0521] Cup of spindles 3, 4 and 5: up to the overflow, i.e. 25 ml.
[0522] 4. Measurement
[0523] Place on the machine (Rheomat 100) the support for the system and the measuring body selected, then adapt the measuring cup and switch on the machine.
[0524] Read the viscosity after 10 mins of rotation of the measuring body, the value given being in UD and requires the use of an abacus for conversion into poises.
[0525] Results:
TABLE-US-00002 Composition Composition 2 Composition 1 (according to the 3 Viscosity (control) invention) (comparative) (25° C.) 570 cps 730 cps 570 cps
[0526] An increase in the viscosity of composition 2 comprising the aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is observed, which is not the case for comparative composition 3 comprising natural talc.
[0527] Consequently, unlike the aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, talc has no impact on the viscosity of a composition of direct emulsion type comprising it. On the other hand, an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention behaves as a very good thickener for a composition of direct emulsion type.
[0528] 2.3. Visual Evaluation of the Homogenizing Power after Application of Compositions 1 to 3
[0529] Compositions 1 to 3 are applied on an evaluation device in accordance with those described in patent application WO 2014/170807.
[0530] This device comprises an application surface containing different regions characterized by their surface state, which preferably reflects various grades of skin typology, such as skin of increasing age, skin exhibiting an increasing pore size, skin exhibiting an increasing number of skin defects and/or skin exhibiting wrinkles which are increasingly marked and/or increasingly numerous.
[0531] Each of the compositions 1 to 3 is applied by finger, at a rate of 2 mg/cm.sup.2, to the application area intended to receive the sample to be evaluated.
[0532] The result obtained was then evaluated qualitatively in terms of homogenization after application.
[0533] The deposits obtained after application of these compositions were thus observed with the naked eye and using a scanning electron microscope (SEM) (4 or 5 kV at a magnification of ×100), thus making it possible to have an overall view.
[0534] The results obtained are illustrated in the table below.
TABLE-US-00003 Composition 2 Composition 1 (according to the Composition 3 (control) invention) (comparative) Homogenization — ++ — after application
[0535] 2.4. Conclusion
[0536] It is observed that composition 2 according to the invention, comprising an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, is significantly more homogeneous after application than a composition comprising natural talc, like comparative composition 3.
[0537] More particularly, the control composition 1 has a porous and highly cracked deposit with marking of the relief.
[0538] Comparative composition 3 (i.e. containing natural talc) also has a porous and cracked deposit with accentuated marking of the relief.
[0539] In contrast, composition 2 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) shows a significantly less cracked deposit and the relief is greatly smoothed out.
[0540] 2.5. Evaluation of the Correcting Effect on Skin Imperfections (Soft-Focus Effect) of Compositions 1 to 3
[0541] 2.5.1. Operating Conditions
[0542] The optical properties of the test compositions are characterized by means of a Haze measurement (veil effect) with a commercial Hazemeter machine. The Haze corresponds to the scattered transmitted light/total transmitted light. The results are expressed as percentages. The greater the Haze value, the higher the soft-focus effect (Haze index).
[0543] The measurements are taken according to the following protocol:
[0544] a—On a transparent plastic film (Byk), spread a coat with a wet thickness of 25.4 μm of the composition whose Haze it is desired to evaluate is, using an automatic spreader.
[0545] b—Leave to dry for 1 hour at room temperature.
[0546] c—Measure the Haze index using a Byk Gardner brand Hazegard machine.
[0547] 2.5.2. Results
[0548] 2.6. Evaluation of the Matt Effect of Compositions 1 to 3
[0549] Protocol for Measuring the Mattness of a Composition
[0550] The gloss of a deposit resulting from the application of a composition may be commonly measured according to various methods, such as the method using a Byk Micro TRI gloss 20°/60°/85° glossmeter.
[0551] Principle of the Measurement Using this Glossmeter
[0552] The machine illuminates the sample to be analyzed at a certain incidence and measures the intensity of the specular reflection.
[0553] The intensity of the reflected light depends on the material and on the angle of illumination. For non-ferrous materials (paint, plastic), the intensity of reflected light increases with the angle of illumination. The rest of the incident light penetrates the material and, depending on the shade of the color, is either partly absorbed or scattered.
[0554] The reflectometer measurement results are not based on the amount of incident light but on a polished black glass standard of defined refractive index.
[0555] The measurement is normalized relative to an internal standard and brought to a value out of 100: for this calibration standard, the measurement value is set at 100 gloss units (calibration).
[0556] The closer the measured value is to 100, the more glossy the sample. The measurement unit is the Gloss Unit (GU).
[0557] The angle of illumination used has a strong influence on the reflectometer value. In order to be able to readily differentiate very glossy and matt surfaces, the standardization has defined three geometries or three measurement domains.
[0558] Test Protocol
[0559] a—Spread a coat with a wet thickness of 30 μm of the composition whose mean gloss value it is desired to evaluate onto a Leneta brand contrast card of reference Form 1A Penopac, using an automatic spreader. The coat covers the white background and the black background of the card.
[0560] b—Leave to dry for 24 hours at 37° C.
[0561] c—Measure the gloss at 20°, 60° and 85° on the matt white absorbent background (3 measurements) using a Byk Gardner brand glossmeter of reference microTri-Gloss.
[0562] The measured values in GU obtained for the various test compositions should then be compared. The lower the value measured, the more matt the deposit.
[0563] Results
[0564] Composition 2 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured GU result that is significantly lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is consequently the composition leading to the most matt deposit.
[0565] 2.7. Conclusions
[0566] An aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention can advantageously give a cosmetic composition of direct emulsion type comprising it a higher viscosity, better homogenization properties after application, and also a matt effect, especially compared with a composition comprising natural talc as filler.
[0567] In addition, the presence of a synthetic phyllosilicate makes it possible to improve the correcting effect on skin imperfections of a composition of direct emulsion type comprising it.
Example 3: Influence of the Nature of the Filler on the Matt Effect and Homogenizing Effect after Application of a Cosmetic Composition of Water-in-Oil Inverse Emulsion Type
[0568] 3.1. Compositions Tested
[0569] The materials of phase A are first weighed out and then stirred using a Moritz blender at 68° C. The pigments are then ground in the oil of phase B and then added to phase A.
[0570] Phase C is then added and the mixture thus obtained is stirred until homogeneous.
[0571] The materials of phase D are then weighed out, mixed and homogenized by stirring using a magnetic bar. Phase D is then introduced into phase A, followed by emulsifying the mixture with vigorous stirring for 10 minutes.
[0572] The mixture is finally left to cool to 30° C. and phase E is then introduced.
[0573] Taring with water is then performed.
[0574] The following compositions were then prepared.
[0575] The percentages indicated in this table are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.
TABLE-US-00004 Compo- Compo- Compo- sition 5 sition sition (according 6 Starting materials 4 to the (compar- (commercial references) (control) invention) ative) A PEG-10 Dimethicone 2.00% 2.00% 2.00% (KSG-6017 ® from Shin-Etsu) Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 1.00% 1.00% 1.00% Dimethicone (Abil EM 90 ® from Evonik Goldschmidt) Cyclohexasiloxane 8.20% 8.20% 8.20% (KF-996 ® de SHIN ETSU) Isododecane 1.00% 1.00% 1.00% Isohexadecane 1.60% 1.60% 1.60% Ethylhexyl methoxy- 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% cinnamate Acrylate/polytri- 10.0% 10.0% 10.0% methylsiloxy- methacrylate copolymer (Dow Corning FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate ® from Dow Corning) B NAI pigments 12.0% 12.0% 12.0% (Sunpuro) Cyclohexasiloxane 7.50% 7.50% 7.50% C Silica 1.00% 1.00% 1.00% Nylon-12 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% Perlite 0.20% 0.20% 0.20% D Water 34.80% 16.80% 33.33% Gel of synthetic 0.00% 18.00% 0.00% phyllosilicate (i.e. according to the invention 1.47% (8.20% AM) in water AM*) Butylene glycol 6.00% 6.00% 6.00% Magnesium sulfate 0.70% 0.70% 0.70% Talc naturel 0.00% 0.00% 1.47% (Luzenac Pharma M) E Denatured alcohol 8% 8% 8% TOTAL 100 100 100 *AM: Active Material
[0576] 3.2. Evaluation of the Viscosity of Compositions 4 to 6
[0577] The viscosity measurement protocol is identical to that detailed in example 2 above.
[0578] Results:
TABLE-US-00005 Composition Composition 5 Composition 4 (according to 6 (control) the invention) (comparative) Viscosité (25° C.) 9 poises 12 poises 9 poises
[0579] 3.3. Visual Evaluation of the Homogenizing Power of Compositions 4 to 6
[0580] Compositions 4 to 6 are tested in accordance with what is indicated in example 2 above.
[0581] The results obtained are illustrated in the table below.
TABLE-US-00006 Composition Composition 5 Composition 4 (according to 6 (Control) the invention) (comparative) Homogenization −/+ +/+ −/+ after application
[0582] 3.4. Evaluation of the Matt Effect of Compositions 4 to 6
[0583] The mattness measurement protocol is identical to that described in example 2 above (see point 2.6).
[0584] Results
[0585] Composition 5 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured GU result that is lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is consequently the composition leading to the most matt deposit.
[0586] 3.5. Conclusions
[0587] A slight increase in the viscosity of composition 5 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) is observed, which is not the case for comparative composition 6 comprising natural talc.
[0588] In other words, unlike an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, natural talc has no impact on the viscosity of a composition of inverse emulsion type comprising it. On the other hand, an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention behaves as a very good thickener for a composition of inverse emulsion type.
[0589] In addition, composition 5 containing the aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention is significantly more homogeneous after application than the comparative composition 6 comprising natural talc.
[0590] Finally, the presence of an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention makes it possible to reinforce the mattness of a composition of inverse emulsion type comprising it and the persistence of this matt effect over time.
Example 4: Influence of the Nature of the Filler on the Matt Effect and Homogenizing Effect after Application of a Cosmetic Composition of Gel-Gel Type
[0591] 4.1. Compositions Tested
[0592] All the starting materials are weighed out in a beaker and then stirred vigorously using a Rayneri blender until the mixture becomes homogeneous.
[0593] Compositions 7 and 8 below were then prepared.
[0594] The percentages indicated in this table are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.
TABLE-US-00007 Composition Composition 8 Composition Starting materials 7 (according to 9 (commercial references) (control) the invention) (comparative) Microbiologically clean 51.54% 33.54% 49.54% deionized water Glycerol 5.28% 5.28% 5.28% Sodium acrylamido-2- 2.4% 2.4% 3.17% methylpropanesulfonate/ hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer in powder form (Sepinov EMT 10 ® from SEPPIC) 2-Phenoxyethanol 0.78% 0.78% 0.78% Gel of synthetic 0.00% 18.00% 0.00% phyllosilicate according to (i.e. the invention at 11.0% in 2.00% water AM*) Talc naturel 0.00% 0.00% 2.00% (Luzenac Pharma M) Polydimethylsiloxane 8.00% 8.00% 8.00% (viscosity: 5 cSt) (Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5 CS ® from Dow Corning) Mixture of 14.0% 14.0% 14.0% polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene/polydimethyl- siloxane 5 cSt (Dow Corning 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend ® from Dow Corning) Pigments NAI 18.0% 18.0% 18.0% (SUNPURO) TOTAL 100 100 100 *AM: Active Material
[0595] 4.2. Evaluation De La Viscositè Des Compositions 7 á 9
[0596] The viscosity measurement protocol is identical to that detailed in example 2 above.
[0597] Results:
TABLE-US-00008 Composition Composition 8 7 (according to the Composition 9 (control) invention) (comparative) Viscosity (25° C.) 64 poises 123 poises 64 poises
[0598] 4.3. Evaluation of the Matt Effect of Compositions 7 to 9
[0599] The mattness measurement protocol is identical to that described in example 2 above.
[0600] Results
[0601] Composition 8 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured GU result that is lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is consequently the composition leading to the most matt deposit.
[0602] 4.4. Conclusions
[0603] A significant increase in the viscosity of composition 8 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) is observed, which is not the case for comparative composition 9 comprising natural talc.
[0604] In other words, unlike an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention, talc has no impact on the viscosity of a composition of gel-gel type comprising it. On the other hand, an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention behaves as a very good thickener for a composition of gel-gel type.
[0605] In addition, the presence of an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention makes it possible to reinforce the mattness of a composition of gel-gel type comprising it and the persistence of this matt effect over time.
Example 5: Influence of the Phyllosilicate Gel as a Gelling and Matt-Effect Agent for a Cosmetic Care Composition
[0606] The percentages indicated in this table are weight percentages relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition.
[0607] 5.1. Compositions Tested
TABLE-US-00009 Composition Compo- Compo- 11 sition sition (according 12 Cosmetic 10 to the (compar- type INCI names (control) invention) ative) FATTY Behenyl Alcohol (and) 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% PHASE Glyceryl Stearate (and) Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate (and) Glyceryl Stearate Citrate (Ceralution H ® from Sasol) Isostearyl Neopentanoate 2.50% 2.50% 2.50% (Dub VCI 18 ® from Stéarineries Dubois) Isohexadecane 8.00% 8.00% 8.00% (Isohexadecane ® from Ineos) Hexyldecyl Laurate (and) 4.00% 4.00% 4.00% Hexyldecanol (Cetiol PGL Cognis ® (BASF)) C.sub.10-C.sub.30 Polyalkylacrylate 0.50% 0.50% 0.50% (Intelimer IPA 13-1 NG Polymer ® from Air Products & Chemicals) AQUEOUS Synthetic phyllosilicate gel in 0.00% 36% SM 0.00% PHASE accordance with the invention (i.e. 3.7% (10.3% AM in water) AM) Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Glycerol 7.00% 7.00% 7.00% Preserving agent qs qs qs Ammonium 0.00% 0.00% 0.50% Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate (Hostacerin AMPS ® Clariant) Xanthan Gum 0.20% 0.20% 0.20% (Rhodicare XC ® Rhodia (Solvay))
[0608] 5.2. Evaluation De La Viscositè Des Compositions 10 á 12
[0609] The viscosity measurement protocol is identical to that detailed in example 2 above.
[0610] Results:
TABLE-US-00010 Composition 11 Composition 10 (according to the Composition 12 (control) invention) (comparative) Viscosité (25° C.) <1 poise 12.2 poises 11.5 poises
[0611] 5.3. Evaluation De l'Effet Matifiant Des Compositions 10 á 12
[0612] Le protocole de mesure de la matité est identique à celui décrit en exemple 2 ci-dessus.
[0613] Results
TABLE-US-00011 Composition Composition 11 Composition 10 (according to the 12 (control) invention) (comparative) Gloss at 60° ++++ + ++++++
[0614] Composition 11 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured GU result that is very significantly lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is consequently the composition leading to the most matt deposit.
[0615] 5.4. Conclusions
[0616] A significant increase in the viscosity of composition 11 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) is observed, which is not the case for comparative composition 12 comprising, instead of the gel according to the invention, a gelling agent not in accordance with the invention.
[0617] In addition, the presence of an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention makes it possible to very significantly reinforce the mattness and the persistence of this matt effect over time of a composition comprising it, when compared with a composition free of such a gel.
Example 6: Influence of the Nature of the Filler on the Spreading Properties of an Aqueous Cosmetic Composition
[0618] Les pourcentages indiqués dans ce tableau sont des pourcentages en poids du poids total de la composition correspondante.
[0619] 6.1. Compositions Tested
TABLE-US-00012 Composition 15 Compo- Compo- (aqueous sition 13 sition solution Commercial (according 14 of sodium reference to the (compar- hyaluronate) (supplier) invention) ative) (comparative) Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 Sodium hyaluronate 1% 1% 1% Synthetic 18.18% 0% 0% phyllosilicate gel (i.e. 2% AM) according to the invention (11% AM) Natural talc 0% 2% 0% (Luzenac ® Pharma M) Total 100 100 100
[0620] 6.2. Example of the Invention Compared with Counter-Example 14:
[0621] Natural talc does not disperse in the aqueous solution of composition 14 and remains at the surface. The synthetic phyllosilicate gel according to the invention, on the other hand, makes it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous gel.
[0622] 6.3. Homogeneity of the Deposit after Application
[0623] The reference nacre Nacre Colorona Karat Gold MP-24 is used as tracer to visually check the homogeneity of the deposit after application.
[0624] Thus, 2 g of this nacre are added to 100 g of composition 13 according to the invention and to comparative composition 15.
[0625] It is seen that the deposit obtained after application of composition 13 according to the invention is visually more homogeneous on the skin when compared with the deposit obtained with comparative composition 15 not comprising the synthetic phyllosilicate gel according to the invention.
[0626] 6.4. Mattness
[0627] The mattness measurement protocol is identical to that described in example 2 above.
[0628] Composition 13 according to the invention (i.e. comprising an aqueous gel of synthetic phyllosilicate according to the invention) has a measured GU result that is very significantly lower than that obtained for the other compositions, and is consequently the composition leading to the most matt deposit.