COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS PHASE AND A FATTY PHASE THAT ARE VISUALLY DISTINCT USED FOR HAIR TREATMENT

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair treatment process comprising the step of applying on the hair a composition comprising:—a fatty phase comprising: a) at least one oil; b) at least one fatty-phase thickener; c) at least one water-insoluble mineral particulate compound, other than the fatty-phase thickener b);—an aqueous phase comprising at least one aqueous-phase thickening polymer, the two phases being visually distinct.

Claims

1. Cosmetic hair treatment process comprising the step of applying on the hair a composition comprising: a fatty phase comprising: a) at least one oil; b) at least one fatty-phase thickener; c) at least one water-insoluble mineral particulate compound, other than the fatty-phase thickener b); an aqueous phase comprising at least one aqueous-phase thickening polymer, the two phases being visually distinct.

2. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oil(s) are chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 lower alkanes; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms; non-silicone oils of animal origin; oils of plant origin; fluoro oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; non-salified liquid fatty acids; silicone oils; or mixtures thereof; and are preferably chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 lower alkanes; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms; liquid fatty alcohols; oils of plant origin; or mixtures thereof; and even more preferentially chosen from C.sub.6-C.sub.16 lower alkanes; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms; liquid fatty alcohols; or mixtures thereof.

3. Process composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil(s) are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially in an amount ranging from 1% to 10% and better still in an amount ranging from 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty-phase thickener is chosen from mineral fatty-phase thickeners and organic fatty-phase thickeners.

5. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the mineral fatty-phase thickeners are chosen from silicates and silicas, preferably from silicates.

6. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the organic fatty-phase thickeners are chosen from semicrystalline polymers, non-silicone polyamides, silicone polyamides, monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters of saccharides or of polysaccharides, N-acylamino acid amide derivatives, copolymers comprising one or more alkylene and/or styrene blocks, and elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty-phase thickener or thickeners is or are present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 0.075% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-insoluble mineral particulate compound is chosen from metal particles, oxides, mineral salts, carbides, nitrides, sulfides and hydroxides, especially from silicates, alumina, silica and mineral compounds containing the same such as perlite, nitrides, calcium carbonate, preferably from silica particles, especially hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, perlite, nitrides, especially boron nitride, silicates, especially aluminosilicates such as kaolin.

9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-insoluble mineral particulate compound(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 5%, preferably from 0.02% to 2% and better still from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of fatty phase ranges from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.7% to 30% by weight and better still from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous-phase thickener is chosen from non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units and associative thickening polymers.

12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous-phase thickener is chosen from anionic thickening polymers.

13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous-phase thickener is chosen from associative or non-associative thickening polymers bearing acrylic or methacrylic units.

14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous-phase thickener or thickeners is or are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 15% and better still in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of aqueous phase ranges from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight and better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises less than 2% of surfactant and preferably does not comprise any surfactant.

17. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition has a viscosity of greater than or equal to 0.1 Pa.Math.s, better still ranging from 0.1 Pa.Math.s to 500 Pa.Math.s, even better still from 0.5 Pa.Math.s to 300 Pa.Math.s and more preferably from 1 Pa.Math.s to 200 Pa.Math.s at a temperature of 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s.sup.−1.

18. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is in gel form with oily insertions such as oily volutes.

19. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is obtained by mixing the two phases using a static mixer.

20. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises the step of rinsing the composition out after an optional leave-in time, in the presence or absence of heat.

21. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19 for caring for the hair and/or for shaping the hair.

Description

[0154] According to the present invention, the term “aqueous-phase thickener” means compounds which, by their presence, increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which they are introduced by at least 20 cps and preferably by at least 50 cps, at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s.sup.−1 (the viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0155] Aqueous-phase thickeners that may be mentioned include non-associative thickening polymers bearing sugar units.

[0156] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sugar unit” means a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula C.sub.n(H.sub.2O).sub.n−1 or (CH.sub.2O).sub.n, which may be optionally modified by substitution and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

[0157] The sugar units that may be included in the composition of the thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: [0158] glucose; [0159] galactose; [0160] arabinose; [0161] rhamnose; [0162] mannose; [0163] xylose; [0164] fucose; [0165] anhydrogalactose; [0166] galacturonic acid; [0167] glucuronic acid; [0168] mannuronic acid; [0169] galactose sulfate; [0170] anhydrogalactose sulfate and [0171] fructose.

[0172] Thickening polymers of the invention that may especially be mentioned include native gums such as:

a) tree or shrub exudates, including: [0173] gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); [0174] ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); [0175] karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); [0176] gum tragacanth (or tragacanth) (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
b) gums derived from algae, including: [0177] agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); [0178] alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); [0179] carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);
c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including: [0180] guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); [0181] locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); [0182] fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose); [0183] tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose); [0184] konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);
d) microbial gums, including: [0185] xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); [0186] gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); [0187] scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);
e) plant extracts, including: [0188] cellulose (glucose polymer); [0189] starch (glucose polymer) and [0190] inulin.

[0191] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. A physical treatment that may especially be mentioned is the temperature.

[0192] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions. These treatments can lead to polymers that may especially be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0193] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0194] The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C.sub.1-C.sub.6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0195] Among the C.sub.1-C.sub.6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups that may be mentioned, for example, are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0196] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides, for instance propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0197] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2, and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

[0198] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0199] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0200] The starches may be chemically or physically modified especially by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0201] Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferentially be used, for instance the products sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate), Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) and Prejel 200 (gelatinized acetyl cassava distarch phosphate) by the company Avebe, or Structure Zea from National Starch (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

[0202] According to the invention, amphoteric starches may also be used, these amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

[0203] The starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, especially such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the starch hydrolysates mentioned above. The starch is preferably derived from potato.

[0204] The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulose-based polymers not comprising a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty chain in their structure.

[0205] According to the invention, the term “cellulose-based” polymer means any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure sequences of glucose residues linked via β-1,4 bonds; besides unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.

[0206] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0207] Among these cellulose-based polymers, cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.

[0208] Among the cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, am idopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0209] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C.sub.10-C.sub.30 fatty chain, i.e. which are “non-associative”, mention may be made of (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from

[0210] Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl-(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0211] Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly)carboxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. Examples that may be mentioned include carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.

[0212] Among the cationic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent U.S. Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as (poly)hydroxy(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by the company National Starch.

[0213] Among the nonassociative thickening polymers not bearing sugar units that may be used, mention may be made of crosslinked acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof, ammonium acrylate homopolymers, or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide, alone or mixtures thereof.

[0214] A first family of nonassociative thickening polymers that is suitable for use is represented by crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers.

[0215] Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allyl alcohol ether of the sugar series, for instance the products sold under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company Noveon or the products sold under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA.

[0216] The nonassociative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers, such as the polymer sold under the name Aqua SF1 by the company Noveon.

[0217] The nonassociative thickening polymers may be chosen from crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers and the crosslinked acrylamide copolymers thereof.

[0218] Among the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of acrylamide, mention may be made in particular of the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853, and reference may be made to said document as regards these polymers.

[0219] The composition may similarly comprise, as nonassociative thickening polymers, ammonium acrylate homopolymers or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide.

[0220] Among the ammonium acrylate homopolymers that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and of acrylamide that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 sold by the company Hoechst. Reference may be made especially to documents FR 2 416 723, U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,923,692 as regards the description and preparation of such compounds.

[0221] Cationic thickening polymers of acrylic type may also be used.

[0222] Among the aqueous-phase thickening polymers, mention may also be made of the associative polymers that are well known to a person skilled in the art and especially of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

[0223] It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic region.

[0224] The term “hydrophobic group” means a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0225] Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

[0226] Among the associative polymers of anionic type that may be mentioned are: [0227] (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is formed by an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

[0228] Among these anionic associative polymers, those that are particularly preferred according to the invention are polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylenic monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

[0229] Among the latter polymers, those most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular those sold by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80® and Salcare SC 90®, which are aqueous 30% emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10). [0230] (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C.sub.10-C.sub.30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

[0231] (C.sub.10-C.sub.30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids that are useful in the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

[0232] Anionic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to patents U.S. Pat. No. 3,915,921 and U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949.

[0233] Among anionic associative polymers of this type that will be used more particularly are those consisting of from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

[0234] Among the said above polymers, those most particularly preferred according to the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2® and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1®, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX®.

[0235] Mention may also be made of the acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP. [0236] (c) maleic anhydride/C.sub.30-C.sub.38 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride/C.sub.30-C.sub.38 α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymers) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies. [0237] (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

[0238] i) about 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A],

[0239] ii) about 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation other than [A],

[0240] iii) about 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane which is the product of reaction of a monohydric surfactant with a monoisocyanate containing monoethylenic unsaturation,

such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more particularly the terpolymer described in Example 3, namely a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate ethoxylated (40 EO) terpolymer, as an aqueous 25% dispersion. [0241] (e) copolymers comprising among their monomers a carboxylic acid containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and an ester of a carboxylic acid containing α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0242] Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alcohol.

[0243] An example of a compound of this type that may be mentioned is Aculyn 22® sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer; and also Aculyn 88, also sold by the company Röhm & Haas. [0244] (f) amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked.

[0245] The ethylenically unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are especially chosen from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.22)alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C.sub.1-C.sub.22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.22)alkylsulfonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof.

[0246] (Meth)acrylamido(C.sub.1-C.sub.22)alkylsulfonic acids, for instance acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more preferentially be used.

[0247] 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), and also partially or totally neutralized forms thereof, will more particularly be used.

[0248] The polymers of this family may be chosen especially from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C.sub.6.sup.-C.sub.22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154 (which is an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, β-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0249] The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

[0250] These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, ⊖-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid and maleic acid, or mixtures of these compounds.

[0251] These copolymers are described especially in patent application EP-A-750 899, patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,089,578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: [0252] “Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures—Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336”; [0253] “Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering—Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10, (2000), 3694-3704”; [0254] “Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior—Langmuir, Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”; [0255] “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers'Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.

[0256] Among these polymers, mention may be made of: [0257] crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C.sub.8-C.sub.16)alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C.sub.8-C.sub.16)alkyl(meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899; [0258] terpolymers comprising from 10 mol % to 90 mol % of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol % to 10 mol % of AMPS units and from 5 mol % to 80 mol % of n-(C.sub.6-C.sub.18)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent U.S. Pat. No. 5,089,578.

[0259] Mention may also be made of copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above.

[0260] Among the cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned are:

(I) cationic associative polyurethanes;
(II) the compound sold by the company Noveon under the name Aqua CC and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

[0261] Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer is the product of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: [0262] a di(C.sub.1-C.sub.4 alkyl)amino(C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl) methacrylate, [0263] one or more C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, [0264] a polyethoxylated C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide units), [0265] a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether, [0266] a hydroxy(C.sub.2-C.sub.6 alkyl) methacrylate, and [0267] an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
(III) quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C.sub.8-C.sub.30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C.sub.12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C.sub.18 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C.sub.12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C.sub.18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by the company Aqualon.
(IV) cationic polyvinyllactam polymers.

[0268] Such polymers are described, for example, in patent application WO-00/68282.

[0269] As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidop ropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl-methacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamido-propylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers are used in particular.

[0270] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, the ones that are preferred are those prepared from or comprising 1 mol % to 20 mol %, preferably 1.5 mol % to 15 mol % and even more particularly 1.5 mol % to 6 mol % of fatty-chain monomer relative to the total number of moles of monomers.

[0271] Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are described and prepared, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

[0272] Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the ones that are preferred are acrylic acid/(meth)acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/stearyl methacrylate terpolymers.

[0273] The associative polymers of nonionic type that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: [0274] (a) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, of which examples that may be mentioned include: [0275] the products Antaron V216® or Ganex V216® (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., [0276] the products Antaron V220® or Ganex V220® (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P., [0277] (b) copolymers of C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208®, [0278] (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, [0279] (d) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences, [0280] (e) polymers with an aminoplast ether backbone containing at least one fatty chain, such as the Pure Thix® compounds sold by the company Sud-Chemie, [0281] (f) celluloses or derivatives thereof, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof in which the alkyl groups are of C.sub.8, and in particular: [0282] nonionic alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the products Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS and Polysurf 67 (C.sub.16 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon; [0283] nonionic nonoxynylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as the product Amercell HM-1500 sold by the company Amerchol; [0284] nonionic alkylcelluloses such as the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the company Berol Nobel; [0285] (g) associative guar derivatives, for instance hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (modified with a C.sub.22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti; the product Miracare XC 95-3 (modified with a C.sub.14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C.sub.20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia Chimie.

[0286] Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

[0287] The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

[0288] The nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

[0289] By extension, also included among the nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

[0290] As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate 205® containing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®.

[0291] Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C.sub.12-14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C.sub.18 alkyl chain, from Akzo.

[0292] The product DW 1206B® from Röhm & Haas containing a C.sub.20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

[0293] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the company Rheox. The products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company Röhm & Haas may also be used.

[0294] The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen—Colloid Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).

[0295] It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

[0296] Such polyurethane polyethers are sold in particular by the company Röhm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

[0297] Preferably, the aqueous-phase thickener(s) are chosen from polymers not comprising any sugar units.

[0298] Preferably, the aqueous-phase thickener(s) are chosen from anionic thickening polymers.

[0299] More preferentially, the aqueous-phase thickener(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative polymers bearing acrylic or methacrylic units.

[0300] The aqueous-phase thickener or thickeners is or are preferably present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, more preferentially in an amount ranging from 0.2% to 15% and better still in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0301] The aqueous phase may comprise at least one hydrophilic organic solvent, for instance substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

[0302] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any surfactant. When it does comprise the same, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 2% of surfactant.

[0303] The amount of aqueous phase may range from 50% to 99.5% by weight, preferably from 60% to 95% by weight and better still from 70% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0304] The composition according to the invention may comprise active agents conventionally used in the field of cosmetics, other than those described previously, and chosen from fixing polymers, preferably anionic or non-ionic fixing polymers, silicones, direct dyes, in particular cationic or natural direct dyes, or oxidation dyes, organic or mineral pigments, UV-screening agents, resins, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins, amino acids, preserving agents, long-lasting hair shaping agents, especially thiolated organic reducing agents, non-thiolated organic reducing agents, alkaline agents, etc.

[0305] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional compounds and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous properties of the compositions used according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

[0306] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises: [0307] a fatty phase comprising:

[0308] a) at least one oil;

[0309] b) at least one fatty-phase thickener chosen from silicates;

[0310] c) at least one water-insoluble mineral particulate compound different from the fatty-phase thickener b), [0311] an aqueous phase comprising at least one aqueous-phase thickener chosen from associative or non-associative anionic thickening polymers bearing acrylic or methacrylic units.

[0312] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any superabsorbent polymer, namely a polymer that is capable in its dry form of spontaneously absorbing at least 20 times its own weight of aqueous fluid, in particular of water and especially distilled water.

[0313] Preferably, the composition is in the form of a gel, namely a thickened aqueous solution, which comprises oily inclusions, such as oily volutes. More preferably, the composition is in the form of a transparent gel with oily inclusions such as oily volutes. More preferably, the composition is entirely in gel form, the two phases being thickened.

[0314] Preferably, the compositions have a viscosity of greater than or equal to 0.1 Pa.Math.s and better still ranging from 0.1 Pa.Math.s to 500 Pa.Math.s and even better still from 0.5 Pa.Math.s to 300 Pa.Math.s and even more preferably from 1 Pa.Math.s to 200 Pa.Math.s at a temperature of 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s.sup.−1 (measurable, for example, with a Haake RS600 rheometer).

[0315] The composition according to the invention may be obtained by mixing the two phases using a static mixer.

[0316] In particular, to make the composition according to the invention, the ingredients of the fatty phase are mixed together, on the one hand, and the ingredients of the aqueous phase are mixed together, on the other hand. Each phase is introduced separately into the static mixer, namely a tube inside which is a three-dimensional structure promoting the appearance of turbulence during the passage of a fluid. The phases are mixed by a static device, i.e. a device that is not driven by a rotary system, thus avoiding dispersion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase, especially in the form of globules. A mixture in which the two phases are visually distinct is obtained.

[0317] A subject of the invention is also a composition according to the invention made using a static mixer.

[0318] The composition according to the invention may especially be used in leave-in or rinse-out application to the hair.

[0319] A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic hair treatment process, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as has just been described, followed by optionally rinsing it out after an optional leave-in time, in the presence or absence of heat.

[0320] The example that follows is given as an illustration of the present invention. In this example, all the amounts are indicated as weight percentages of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.

TABLE-US-00001 Name A 1 Mineral oil 1.76 2 Mica (and) iron oxides (and) titanium 0.02 dioxide 3 Disteardimonium hectorite .sup.(1) 0.12 4 Boron nitride 0.04 5 Propylene Carbonate 0.04 6 Fragrance 0.01 7 Tocopherol 0.01 8 CARBOMER .sup.(2) 1.27 9 Caprylyl glycol 0.39 10 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 1.18 11 Triethanolamine 1.86 12 Polysorbate 20 0.10 13 Disodium EDTA 0.08 14 Fragrance 0.39 15 Preserving agent qs 16 Water qs 100 .sup.(1) sold under the reference Bentone 38 V CG by the company Elementis .sup.(2) sold under the reference Synthalen K by the company 3V

[0321] The composition, which is a styling gel with a care valency, is prepared.

[0322] Using a static mixer, the oil phase comprising ingredients 1 to 6 is mixed with the gel phase comprising the other ingredients of the composition. The composition obtained is in the form of a marbled, translucent gel containing aesthetic whitish volutes.

[0323] The gel obtained is sparingly tacky and easy to spread in the hands and on the hair.

[0324] According to a first use, it is applied to wet hair before brushing. It gives the hair texture and volume.

[0325] According to a second use, it is applied to dry hair, as a finishing. It is applied after straightening or curling the hair using a straightening or curling iron, and affords hairstyle control and hold.

[0326] In the two examples of use, the styling obtained has long-lasting flexible hold with no “cardboard” effect. In addition, the hair has a soft, cosmetic feel.