COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ORGANOSILANE, A CATIONIC SURFACTANT AND A CATIONIC POLYMER HAVING CHARGE DENSITY GREATER THAN OR EQUAL TO 4 MEQ/G
20170259087 · 2017-09-14
Inventors
- Karima Jaouani (Gennevilliers, FR)
- Nicolas Daubresse (La Celle Saint-Cloud, FR)
- Estelle Mathonneau (Paris, FR)
- Audrey Correia (Clichy, FR)
Cpc classification
A61K8/817
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K47/14
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/58
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K47/14
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, particularly human keratin fibres such as hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers having charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq/g and one or more cationic surfactants. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using said cosmetic composition. The present invention finally relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres.
Claims
1. Cosmetic composition for caring for keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: (i) one or more organosilanes chosen from compounds having formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof:
R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R.sub.3).sub.x(OH).sub.y (I) in which R.sub.1 is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1 to C.sub.22, in particular C.sub.2 to C.sub.20, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with a group chosen from amine groups NH.sub.2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.20, in particular C.sub.1 to C.sub.6, alkyl, a C.sub.3 to C.sub.40 cycloalkyl or a C.sub.6 to C.sub.30 aromatic radical); the hydroxyl group (OH); a thiol group; an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is possibly substituted with an NH.sub.2 or NHR group; it being possible for R.sub.1 to be interrupted with a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO), R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z+x+y=3 (ii) one or more cationic polymers having a charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq/g, and (iii) one or more cationic surfactants.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the organosilane(s) are chosen from compounds having formula (I) in which R.sub.1 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more specifically from 7 to 12 carbon atoms or a C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 aminoalkyl group, preferably C.sub.2 to C.sub.4, and most preferentially R.sub.1 represents an octyl group.
3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the organosilane(s) are chosen from compounds having formula (I) in which R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C.sub.1 to C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted by an amine group NH.sub.2 or NHR (with R═C.sub.1 to C.sub.20 alkyl, in particular C.sub.1 to C.sub.6, C.sub.3 to C.sub.40 cycloalkyl or C.sub.6 to C.sub.30 aromatic) and preferably R.sub.1 represents a C.sub.1 to C.sub.6, more preferentially a C.sub.2 to C.sub.4, aminoalkyl group.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilane(s) having formula (I) are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-amino ethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and oligomers and mixtures thereof; and preferably chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), and oligomers and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of the organosilane(s) having formula (I) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic charge density of the cationic polymer(s) is greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, and preferably ranges from 5 to 20 meq/g.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from: (1) quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl (meth)acrylate copolymers; (2) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene groups containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers; (3) the water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; (4) the polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene-polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents; (5) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene-polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and the saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; (6) the alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers; (7) the diquaternary ammonium polycondensates containing repeating units corresponding to the formula (VI): ##STR00015## in which, R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12 and R.sub.13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12 and R.sub.13, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R.sub.10, R.sub.11, R.sub.12 and R.sub.13 represent a linear or branched C.sub.1 to C.sub.6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group —CO—O—R-D or —CO—NH—R-D where R is an alkylene group and D is a quaternary ammonium group, A.sub.1 and B.sub.1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X.sup.− denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; (8) the polyquaternary ammonium polycondensates constituted of units having formula (VIII): ##STR00016## in which, R.sub.18, R.sub.19, R.sub.20 and R.sub.21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or —CH.sub.2CH.sub.2(OCH.sub.2CH.sub.2).sub.pOH group, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R.sub.18, R.sub.19, R.sub.20 and R.sub.21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, X denotes a halogen atom, and A denotes a dihalide group or represents preferably —CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—O—CH.sub.2—CH.sub.2—; (9) the homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and including units (IX), (X) and/or (XI): ##STR00017## in which, R.sub.22 independently denotes H or CH.sub.3, A.sub.2 independently denotes a linear or branched alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R.sub.23, R.sub.24, R.sub.25, which may be identical or different, independently denote an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, R.sub.26 and R.sub.27 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and X.sub.2.sup.− denotes an anion, for example methosulfate or halide, such as chloride or bromide; (10) the quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers; (11) the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.4) trialkyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)ammonium salts; and (12) mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from families (6), (7), (9) and (11), as defined in claim 7, and preferably chosen from: the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.4) trialkyl(C.sub.1-C.sub.4)ammonium salts, the alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, the homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids and including units (IX), as defined according to claim 7 and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from 2-methacryloyloxyethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from: (a) the quaternary ammonium salts corresponding to the general formula (XII) below: ##STR00018## in which, R.sub.28 to R.sub.31, which can be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group including from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group, such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R.sub.28 to R.sub.31 groups denoting a group including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and X.sup.− is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylsulfates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylsulfonates and (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl-arylsulfonates. (b) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, and (c) mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of cationic surfactant(s) ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.3% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more fatty substances preferably chosen from the fatty alcohols, the fatty esters, the mineral oils, the plant oils of the triglyceride type and mixtures thereof.
15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the content of the fatty substance(s) ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight and more preferentially from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH of said composition ranges from 3 to 10, preferably from 3 to 7, more preferentially from 4 to 7, and even better from 4 to 6.
17. Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the said keratin fibres a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
18. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 16, to give hair a cosmetic treatment that is long-lasting when washed with shampoo.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0288] In the examples that follow, all the amounts are given as percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
I. Example 1
[0289] a. Compositions Tested
[0290] The following compositions, A1 (invention) and B1 (comparison), have been prepared from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.
TABLE-US-00001 A1 B1 (invention) (comparison) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50: C.sub.16/C.sub.18) 9 9 Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl 1 1 palmitate White mineral oil 3 3 Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl- 4.5 4.5 ammonium methosulfate/cetearyl alcohol (1.35 AI + (1.35 AI + (30/70) 3.15 AI) 3.15 AI) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.2 3.2 (25% aqueous solution) (0.8 AI) (0.8 AI) 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 — Lactic acid 2 2 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.1 0.1 Preservative, Fragrance qs qs Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 1.2 — (40% aqueous solution) (0.48 AI) Water qs 100 qs 100 pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2 AI: active ingredient
[0291] The resulting compositions A1 and B1 were applied to the same hair, by applying each composition to a half-head at 6 g per half head, on damp hair. The experiment was repeated on 14 models.
[0292] An expert then evaluated each of the following conditioning properties: detangling, suppleness, smoothness. The detangling was evaluated using a comb, whereas the other properties were scored on feel. For each of the 14 experiments, the expert attributed a score ranging from 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to a minimum conditioning level and 5 corresponds to a maximum conditioning level.
[0293] Then the persistence of each of these properties after 3 washes with shampoo was evaluated according to the same criteria as previously.
b. Results
[0294] The results of the conditioning properties are given in the following table (average values for the 14 experiments).
TABLE-US-00002 After After 3 washes application with shampoo Disentangling A1 3.6 3.1 B1 3.6 2.2 Suppleness A1 3.3 3.2 B1 3.3 2.6 Smoothness A1 2.8 2.9 B1 3.2 1.9
[0295] For smoothness, although the invention performs slightly less well than the comparison after application (at T0), it is observed that the effect is long-lasting after 3 washes with shampoo for the invention whereas it is not for the comparison.
[0296] The results above show that the hair treated with the composition according to the invention (A1) has good conditioning properties, that persist after washing with shampoo, by contrast with the conditioning effects obtained with the comparison composition (B1). Indeed, even after three washes, hair treated with the composition (A1) retain their conditioning properties. By contrast, the properties obtained with composition (B1) degrade.
II. Example 2
[0297] a. Compositions Tested
[0298] The following compositions, A2 (invention) and B2 (comparison), have been prepared from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.
TABLE-US-00003 A2 B2 (invention) (comparison) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.2% 3.2% (0.8% AM) (0.8% AM) 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane .sup. 5% .sup. 5% Polyquaternium-6 1.2% — (Charge density: 6 meq/g) (0.4% AI) Polyquaternium-10 — 0.44% (Charge density: 1.1 meq/g) (0.4% AI) Water Qs 100% Qs 100% pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2
b. Procedure
[0299] The resulting compositions A2 and B2 were applied at 1 g on tresses of bleached, damp hair weighing 2.7 g.
[0300] Using a comb, an expert then evaluated the persistence of detangling after 3 washes with shampoo, for each of the tresses tested, attributing scores ranging from 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to minimum detangling (very difficult detangling) and 5 corresponds to a very easy level of detangling.
c. Results
[0301] The results of the detangling properties are given in the following table (average value for the 2 tresses).
TABLE-US-00004 After 3 washes with shampoo A2 (invention) 5 B2 (comparison) 1
[0302] The results above show that the presence of a cationic polymer having charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq/g is necessary to produce good conditioning properties, which are long-lasting after 3 washes with shampoo. So hair treated with the composition comprising the Polyquaternium-6 (invention) detangles much better than hair treated with the composition comprising Polyquaternium-10 (comparison), after 3 washes with shampoo.
III. Example 3
[0303] a. Compositions Tested
[0304] The following compositions, A1 (invention) and B3 (comparison), have been prepared from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.
TABLE-US-00005 A1 B3 (invention) (comparison) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50: C.sub.16/C.sub.18) 9 9 Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl 1 1 palmitate White mineral oil 3 3 Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl- 4.5 4.5 ammonium methosulfate/cetearyl alcohol (1.35 AI + (1.35 AI + (30/70) 3.15 AI) 3.15 AI) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.2 3.2 (25% aqueous solution) (0.8 AI) (0.8 AI) 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 5 Lactic acid 2 2 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.1 0.1 Preservative, Fragrance Qs Qs Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 1.2 — (40% aqueous solution) (0.48 AI) Water Qs 100 Qs 100 pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2 AI: active ingredient
[0305] The resulting compositions A1 and B3 have been applied at 6 g per half head on damp hair. The experiment was run on 6 models having sensitized hair.
[0306] Directly after compositions A1 and B3 were applied, using a comb an expert evaluated the level of detangling, for all of the 6 comparison experiments, by attributing scores ranging from 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to minimum detangling (very difficult detangling) and 5 corresponds to a very easy level of detangling.
[0307] The persistence of detangling after 3 washes with shampoo was also determined, using the same criteria as previously.
b. Results
[0308] The results of the detangling properties are given in the following table (average value for the 6 experiments).
TABLE-US-00006 After After 3 washes application with shampoo A1 (invention) 3.6 3.4 B3 (comparison) 3.8 2.8
[0309] The results above show that the composition according to the present invention (A1) can produce good detangling properties.
[0310] Moreover, in contrast to the properties produced with composition B3, those obtained with composition A1 are long-lasting when washed with shampoo. So even after three washes with shampoo, the hair treated with the composition comprising a cationic polymer having charge density equal to 4 meq/g (invention) retains its detangling properties. By contrast, these properties fade when hair is treated with a composition that does not comprise a cationic polymer having charge density greater than or equal to 4 meq.
[0311] The presence of this specific type of cationic polymer is therefore necessary to secure a long-lasting effect for the cosmetic properties.
IV. Example 4
[0312] a. Compositions Tested
[0313] The following compositions, A1 (invention) and B4 (comparison), have been prepared from ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below.
TABLE-US-00007 A1 B4 (invention) (comparison) Cetylstearyl alcohol (50/50: C.sub.16/C.sub.18) 9 9 Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl 1 1 palmitate White mineral oil 3 3 Dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl- 4.5 4.5 ammonium methosulfate/cetearyl alcohol (1.35 AI + (1.35 AI + (30/70) 3.15 AI) 3.15 AI) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 3.2 3.2 (25% aqueous solution) (0.8 AI) (0.8 AI) 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 — Lactic acid 2 2 Chlorhexidine digluconate 0.1 0.1 Preservative, Fragrance Qs Qs Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride 1.2 1.2 (40% aqueous solution) (0.48 AI) (0.48 AI) Water Qs 100 Qs 100 pH 5 ± 0.2 5 ± 0.2 AI: active ingredient
[0314] Compositions A1 and B4 have been applied at 6 g per half head on damp hair. The experiment was run on 6 models having sensitized hair.
[0315] Directly after compositions A1 and B4 were applied, using a comb an expert evaluated the level of detangling, for all of the 6 comparison experiments, by attributing scores ranging from 0 to 5, where 0 corresponds to minimum detangling (very difficult detangling) and 5 corresponds to a very easy level of detangling.
[0316] The persistence of detangling after 3 washes with shampoo was also determined, using the same criteria as previously.
b. Results
[0317] The results of the detangling properties are given in the following table (average value for the 6 experiments).
TABLE-US-00008 After After 3 washes application with shampoo A1 (invention) 3.2 3.3 B4 (comparison) 3.5 2.6
[0318] The results above show that the composition according to the present invention (A1) can produce detangling properties that are long-lasting for at least 3 washes with shampoo, in contrast with the properties obtained with composition B4. Indeed, after three washes, hair treated with the composition comprising 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (invention) retains its detangling properties. By contrast, these properties fade when hair is treated with a composition not comprising an organosilane having formula (I).
[0319] The presence of a silane having formula (I) is therefore necessary to secure a long-lasting effect for the cosmetic properties.