MATT-EFFECT COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, notably a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, in particular for caring for a keratin material, notably the skin and in particular facial skin, which is in the form of an oil-in-water, O/W, emulsion, and comprising at least a) particles of at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel, b) an ester hydrocarbon-based oil, and c) an ether hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said ether and ester oils are present in an ether oil/ester oil weight ratio ranging from 1 to 2.

Claims

1. Composition, which is in the form of an oil-in-water, O/W, emulsion, and comprising at least a) particles of at least one hydrophobic silica aerogel, b) an ester hydrocarbon-based oil, and c) an ether hydrocarbon-based oil, in which said ether and ester oils are present in an ether oil/ester oil weight ratio ranging from 1 to 2.

2. The composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 500 to 1500 m.sup.2/g, and a size expressed as the volume mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm.

3. The composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g of particles.

4. The composition according to claim 1, in which the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles are particles of at least one silylated silica aerogel (INCI name: silica silylate).

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles represent, as solids, from 0.5% to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein it contains from 1% to 15% by weight of ester hydrocarbon-based oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said ester hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the group consisting of: liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; synthetic esters; hydroxylated esters; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters; and pentaerythritol esters.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said ester hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the group consisting of caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 1, comprising from 2% to 20% by weight of ether hydrocarbon-based oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said ether hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl ether, dicapryl ether, dilauryl ether, diisostearyl ether, dioctyl ether, nonyl phenyl ether, dodecyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl dimethylbutyl ether, cetyl isobutyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one polyol.

12. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight of gelling agent of crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymer and copolymer type relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 40% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

14. The composition according to claim 1, comprising less than 1% by weight, of silicone oil and/or of silicone elastomer.

15. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a dyestuff.

16. The composition according to claim 1, which is free of dyestuff.

17. Cosmetic process for caring for a keratin material, comprising the topical application to said keratin material to be treated of a composition according to claim 1.

18. Process for making facial skin matt and/or for reducing shininess of facial skin, comprising the topical application to the skin to be treated of a composition according to claim 1.

19. A method for caring for combination and/or greasy skin comprising applying a composition according to claim 1.

20. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the polyol is selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

21. The composition according to claim 1. which is free of silicone oil and/or of silicone elastomer.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0158] The compositions that follow were prepared according to the general procedure detailed below.

[0159] The starting materials (S/M) of A1 are melted at 70-75° C. A2 is then added just before emulsifying.

[0160] The SMs of phase D are mixed at room temperature by spatula.

[0161] The SMs of B are diluted while hot. Phase A is added thereto and the whole is homogenized for 5 minutes on a rotor/stator 3. The whole is diluted with the cold water of phase C with stirring using a rotor/stator 3.

[0162] Phase D is added and the whole is homogenized on a rotor/stator 3, neutralized with phase E and homogenized again on a deflocculator with cooling. The SMs of F are added thereto on a deflocculator with cooling, followed by phase G on a deflocculator.

[0163] Table 1 below gives the detailed composition of the two compositions thus obtained.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Phase SUPPLIER COMMERCIAL REF EU INCI Name No.1 No.2 A1 GUJART ALKALIES CAUSTIC LYE POLYGLYCERYL-3 1.5 1.5 AND CHEMICAL S METHYLGLUCOSE DISTEARATE A1 EVONIK TEGIN PELLETS GLYCERYL 1 1 GOLDSCHMIDT STEARATE SE A1 KAO KALCOL 8098 STEARYL ALCOHOL 1 1 A1 DR STRAETMANS DERMOSOFT OCTIOL CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 A1 ALTA LABORATORIES SALICYLIC ACID USP SALICYLIC ACID 0.5 0.5 A1 CHIMEX MEROXYL SAB CAPRYLOYL 0.3 0.3 SALICYLIC ACID A1 ECOGREEN ROFETAN OE/MB DICAPRYLYL ETHER 7.5 11 OLEOCHEMICALS A2 ZMC (ZHEJIANG 1300IU D-ALPHA- TOCOPHEROL 0.28 0.28 MEDICINE CO) TOCOPHEROL (SOYBEAN OIL) A2 IFF 7222709 FIRST FRAGRANCE 0.3 0.3 LOVE JK A3 SACHTLEBEN HOMBITAN FF CI 77891 4.1008 (HUNTSMAN) PHARMA A3 SUN SUNPURO RED IRON CI 77491 0.2376 OXIDE C33-8001 A3 SUN SUNPURO YELLOW CI 77492 0.528 IRON OXIDE C33-9001 A3 SUN SUNPURO BLACKIRON CI 77499 0.132 OXIDE C33-7001 A3 ECKART SYNAFIL S 1050 SYNTHETIC 0.6816 FLUOROPHLOGOPITE B AQUA 20 20 B ECOGREEN ECOCEROL GLYCERIN 8 8 OLEOCHEMICALS B INNOSPEC ACTIVE NATRLQUEST E30 TRISODIUM 0.25 0.25 CHEMICALS ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE C AQUA QS. QS. 100 100 D CREMER OLEO (IOI) MIGLYOL 812 N CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC 5 6.5 TRIGLYCERIDE D 3V SYNTHALEN K CARBOMER 0.9 BASF COSMEDIA SP SODIUM POLYCARYLATE 1 D RHODIA (SOLVAY) RHODICARE XC XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 E OLIN CAUSTIC SODA 50% SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.3 0.11 F DOW CORNING DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL) VM-2270 SILICA SILYLATE 2 2 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES F ROQUETTE BEAUTE-BY- ZEA MAY STARCH 1 0 ROQUETTE ST005 G FRANCE ALCOOLS ETHANOL S96 DENATURE ALCOHOL DENAT. 5 5 BITREX/TERTIO TOTAL 100 100

EXAMPLE 2

[0164] A composition according to the invention is prepared according to the protocol detailed in Example 1. This composition was tested for its matt-effect power and evaluated for its sensory qualities.

[0165] Control compositions were also prepared to undergo the same tests. In terms of galenical formulation, they reproduce that of composition 1, but in which the 7.5% of dicaprylyl ether and the 5% of caprylic/capric triglyceride were replaced with another oil. Table 2 below states, for each control composition, which other compound replaced these two components of composition 1 and in what amount.

Test to Evaluate the Matt-effect Power

[0166] The gloss of a deposit resulting from the application of a composition may be commonly measured according to various methods, such as the method using a Byk Micro TRI gloss 60° glossmeter.

[0167] Principle of the Measurement using this Glossmeter

[0168] The machine illuminates the sample to be analysed at a certain incidence and measures the intensity of the specular reflection.

[0169] The intensity of the reflected light depends on the material and on the angle of illumination. For non-ferrous materials (paint, plastic), the intensity of reflected light increases with the angle of illumination. The rest of the incident light penetrates the material and, depending on the shade of the colour, is either partly absorbed or scattered.

[0170] The reflectometer measurement results are not based on the amount of incident light but on a polished black glass standard of defined refractive index.

[0171] The measurement is normalized relative to an internal standard and brought to a value out of 100. For this calibration standard, the measurement value is set at 100 gloss units (calibration).

[0172] The closer the measured value is to 100, the more glossy the sample. The measurement unit is the Gloss Unit (GU).

[0173] The angle of illumination used has a strong influence on the reflectometer value. In order to be able to readily differentiate very glossy and matt surfaces, the standardization has defined 3 geometries or 3 measurement domains.

Test Protocol

[0174] a—On a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5-250 cm.sup.2) sold by the company Erichsen, the composition whose mean gloss it is desired to evaluate is spread at a rate of 2 mg/cm.sup.2 using a mechanical film spreader to obtain a film 100 microns thick. The coat covers the white background and the black background of the card.

[0175] b—Leave to dry for 24 hours at 37° C.

[0176] c—Measure the gloss at 60° on the absorbent white background

[0177] (3 measurements) using a Byk Gardner brand glossmeter of reference microTri-Gloss.

[0178] 1 spray of a mixture (20% oleic acid+80% Vichy water+1% Oleth-10) is applied; the amount deposited is about 0.3 g per spray.

[0179] The reflection is measured using a gonioreflectometer (immediate gloss in GU), after 12 minutes at room temperature (gloss persistence in GU). The result obtained is the ratio R between the specular reflection and the scattered reflection (gloss unit or GU). The value of R is proportionally smaller the greater the matt effect.

[0180] The gloss assessment scale is as follows:

[0181] −: glossy

[0182] 0: no effect

[0183] +: sparingly matt

[0184] ++: matt

[0185] +++: very matt

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Mattness test Reference 1 formula T12 min % MP EU INCI SUPPLIER COMMERCIAL REF. Gloss unit 75% DICAPRYLYL ETHER BASF CETIOL OE ++ 5% CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC CREMER OLEO MIGLYOL 812 N (No. 1 according TRIGLYCERIDE (IOI) to the invention) 12.5% CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC CREMER OLEO MIGLYOL 812 N + (comparative) TRIGLYCERIDE (IOI) 12.5% ISOPROPYL PALMITATE BASF ISOPROPYL + (comparative) PALMITATE 12.5% ISONONYL ALZO WICKENOL 151 + (comparative) ISONONANOATE 12.5% COCO-CAPRYLATE/ BASF CETIOL C 5C + (comparative ) CAPRATE 12.5% SQUALANE CLARIANT PLANTASENS OLIVE − (comparative) SQUALANE 12.5% ISOCETYL STERATE STEARINERIE ISOCETYL − (comparative) DUBOIS STEARATE (DUB SIS16) 12.5% HYDROGENATED NOF PARLEAM − (comparative) POLYISOBUTENE CORPORATION 12.5% DICAPRYLYL BASF CETIOL CC − (comparative) CARBONATE 12.5% OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OLVEA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL − (comparative) OIL 12.5% BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS HENRY RAPESEED OIL, − (comparative) SEED OIL LAMOTTE REFINED 12.5% HELIANTHUS ANNUUS HUILERIES DE REFINED − (comparative) SEED OIL LAPALISSE SUNFLOWER OIL

[0186] It may be noted that only the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain the desired efficacy.

Tests to Evaluate the Sensory Qualities

[0187] The glidance and tack qualities are assessed, respectively, during and after topical application of a sample of the test composition to the surface of the back of a hand.

[0188] The glidance is assessed by evaluating the ease with which the fingers slide on the surface of the back of a hand during the application to this surface of a sample of the test composition. To reinforce the tactile evaluation, the application is performed using two fingers which are made to slide on the surface.

[0189] Glidance Key:

[0190] 0: dragging

[0191] +: glidant

[0192] ++: very glidant

[0193] The tackiness is evaluated by touch, by tapping the skin with the application fingers.

[0194] Tackiness Key:

[0195] −: not tacky

[0196] 0: no effect

[0197] +: sparingly tacky

[0198] ++: tacky

[0199] +++: very tacky

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 SENSORY % MP EU INCI SUPPLIER COMMERCIAL REF. glidant tacky 75% DICAPRYLYL ETHER BASF CETIOL OE ++ 0 5% CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC CREMER OLEO MIGLYOL 812 N (No. 1 according TRIGLYCERIDE (IOI) to the invention) 12.5% CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC CREMER OLEO MIGLYOL 812 N + 0 (comparative) TRIGLYCERIDE (IOI) 12.5% ISOPROPYL PALMITATE BASF ISOPROPYL + 0 (comparative) PALMITATE 12.5% ISONONYL ALZO WICKENOL 151 + 0 (comparative) ISONONANOATE 12.5% COCO-CAPRYLATE/ BASF CETIOL C 5C ++ ++ (comparative ) CAPRATE 12.5% SQUALANE CLARIANT PLANTASENS OLIVE + ++ (comparative) SQUALANE 12.5% ISOCETYL STERATE STEARINERIE ISOCETYL + ++ (comparative) DUBOIS STEARATE (DUB SIS16) 12.5% HYDROGENATED NOF PARLEAM ++ ++ (comparative) POLYISOBUTENE CORPORATION 12.5% DICAPRYLYL BASF CETIOL CC + 0 (comparative) CARBONATE 12.5% OLEA EUROPAEA FRUIT OLVEA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL 0 ++ (comparative) OIL 12.5% BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS HENRY RAPESEED OIL, + ++ (comparative) SEED OIL LAMOTTE REFINED 12.5% HELIANTHUS ANNUUS HUILERIES DE REFINED + ++ (comparative) SEED OIL LAPALISSE SUNFLOWER OIL

[0200] From the results, it emerges that only the composition comprising the combination of an ester hydrocarbon-based oil and an ether hydrocarbon-based oil according to the invention displays the desired effects.