AQUEOUS GELS FOR DYEING OR MAKING UP THE EYEBROWS

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for dyeing or making up keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows and preferably the eyebrows, comprising the application, to said keratin fibres, of at least: a) A dyeing cosmetic composition A comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, one or more natural dye(s) chosen from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechin tannins, and/or proanthocyanidins and derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof, or one or more plant extracts containing same, and advantageously an antioxidant, b) A revealing cosmetic composition B comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one iron salt and/or one aluminium salt, in particular an iron gluconate or an iron sulfate, wherein the composition A is applied before or after the composition B, preferably before the composition B.

Claims

1. A cosmetic method for dyeing or making up keratin fibres, comprising the application onto said keratin fibers of at least: a) a cosmetic dyeing composition A in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, an acrylic polymeric gelling agent, one or more natural dyes selected from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechetic tannins, proanthocyanidins and derivatives of same, and mixtures thereof, or one or more plant extracts containing them, b) a revealing cosmetic composition B in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, a polymeric gelling agent chosen from among associative anionic polymers and iron gluconate, composition A being applied before or after composition B.

2. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein composition A is applied onto keratin fibers, before composition B.

3. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein iron gluconate is added extemporaneously to revealing composition B before it is applied onto keratin fibres.

4. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing composition A comprises at least one dye chosen from among haematoxylin, haematein, brazilein, brazilin, gallic acid, catechin, castalagin, vescalagin, and/or procyanidins and mixtures thereof, or a plant extract containing them.

5. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the natural dye(s) or plant extracts containing them are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the dyeim composition A also comprises a nonionic surfactant.

7. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the acrylic polymeric gelling agent in dyeing composition A is chosen from among acrylic acid and methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers.

8. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the dyeing composition A also comprises at least one additional coloring material chosen from among pigments, dyes and mixtures thereof.

9. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the revealing composition B comprises at least one film-forming polymer.

10. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the associative anionic polymer in revealing composition B is chosen from anionic terpolymers.

11. The cosmetic method according to 10, wherein the associative anionic polymer in revealing composition B is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5%, preferably 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein: the dyeing composition A is applied onto keratin fibers with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 30 minutes, the revealing composition B is applied onto keratin fibres, with an exposure time ranging from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, composition A being applied before or after composition B, said keratin fibres, then being optionally rinsed in a final step.

13. A kit or device for dyeing or making up keratin fibers with several separate compartments and comprising: in one compartment, a dyeing composition A in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, an acrylic polymeric gelling agent, one or more natural dyes selected from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechetic tannins, proanthocyanidins and derivatives of same, and mixtures thereof, or one or more plant extracts containing them; in another separate compartment, a revealing composition B in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, a polymeric gelling agent chosen from among associative anionic polymers and characterized in that it does not comprise iron gluconate, and in another separate compartment, iron gluconate intended to be mixed extemporaneously with revealing composition B before application onto keratin fibers, and, instructions for use.

14. A kit or device for dyeing or making up keratin fibers with several separate compartments and comprising in one compartment, a dyeing composition A in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, an acrylic polymeric gelling agent, one or more natural dyes selected from the group consisting of neoflavonoids, gallic tannins and catechetic tannins, proanthocyanidins and derivatives of same, and mixtures thereof, or one or more plant extracts containing them; in another separate compartment a revealing composition B in the form of an aqueous gel comprising, in a physiologically-acceptable medium, a polymeric gelling agent chosen from among associative anionic polymers and iron gluconate, and, instructions for use.

15. The kit or device according to claim 13, wherein: the dyeing composition A comprises: i. a natural dye chosen in the group made up of a logwood extract, a chestnut extract, a sorghum extract, a pine extract, a tea extract, a nutgall extract, a cacao extract, a Mexican logwood extract, and mixtures thereof; ii. a decyl glucoside as a nonionic surfactant; iii. sodium metabisulfite as an antioxidant; iv. an acrylic polymer as a gelling agent, v. a pH adjuster; the revealing composition B comprises: vi. an associative anionic polymer chosen from anionic terpolymers as gelling agent, and vii. a pH adjuster, and

16. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the keratin fibers are eyebrows.

17. The cosmetic method according to claim 1, wherein the plant extract is chosen from the group consisting of a logwood extract, a Mexican logwood extract, a chestnut extract, a nutgall extract, an Anogeissus bark extract, a pine extract, a tea extract, a grapevine extract, a sorghum extract, a cacao extract, a myrobalan extract, a hibiscus extract, a strawberry extract and mixtures thereof, preferably a logwood extract, a Mexican logwood extract, a chestnut extract, and mixtures thereof.

18. The cosmetic method according to claim 10, wherein the associative anionic polymer is chosen from an anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl]amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, N,N-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate, INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6.

19. The kit or device according to claim 14, wherein: the dyeing composition A comprises: i. a natural dye chosen in the group made up of a logwood extract, a chestnut extract, a sorghum extract, a pine extract, a tea extract, a nutgall extract, a cacao extract, a Mexican logwood extract, and mixtures thereof; ii. a decyl glucoside as a nonionic surfactant; iii. sodium metabisulfite as an antioxidant; iv. an acrylic polymer as a gelling agent, and v. a pH adjuster; the revealing composition B comprises: vii. an associative anionic polymer chosen from anionic terpolymers as gelling agent, and viii. a pH adjuster.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Eyebrow Dye Formulations in the Form of Gels

First Composition Comprising Logwood Extract

[0213]

TABLE-US-00001 Logwood extract*   5% Glycerol   5% Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI)   1% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30)  1.2% Alkyl glucoside   4% Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)   7% Benzylic alcohol  0.8% Sodium metabisulfite 0.05% Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs  100% *Logwood extract from the company SCRD

[0214] Dyeing composition A is prepared according to the following operating procedure: [0215] dimethyl isosorbide, glycerol, sodium metabisulfite and preservatives are mixed with water with stirring; [0216] carbomer (gelling agent) is then added to the preceding phase and mixed until complete dissolution; [0217] then 10% sodium hydroxide is added to the solution; the formula thickens immediately; [0218] then the logwood wood extract is added and mixed until complete dissolution; [0219] finally, the alkyl glycoside surfactant and water are added and the gel obtained is homogenized; [0220] the pH is verified to be between 7 and 7.5.

Revealing Composition B Comprising Iron Gluconate

[0221]

TABLE-US-00002 Thickening polyacrylate polymer 0.5% (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, SEPIMAX ZEN ® from SEPPIC) Sodium carbonate 0.5% Benzylic alcohol 0.8% Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100% Iron gluconate 3.6%

[0222] Revealing composition B is prepared according to the following operating procedure: [0223] the ingredients, except for the gelling agent and iron gluconate are mixed with stirring until complete dissolution; [0224] then the gelling agent is added until complete dissolution and formation of the gel; [0225] iron gluconate is added extemporaneously to composition B, before applying the product onto the eyelashes [0226] Application onto the eyelashes is done according to the following operating procedure: [0227] dyeing composition A is applied onto the eyelashes using a pencil or brush, with an exposure time of 4 to 6 minutes; [0228] then revealing composition B is applied onto the eyelashes using a pencil or brush, with an exposure time of 2 minutes; [0229] then the eyelashes are rinsed.

[0230] A brown colour is obtained on the eyelashes with good longevity.

Example 2

Selection of Penetration Booster Agents, Alone or in Combination, on the Longevity of the Colour on the Eyelash

[0231] The applicant has shown that the use of one or more penetration booster agents made it possible to improve the colour result on the eyebrows and its longevity. They tested different agents including phospholipids, ceramides, saponins and fatty acids then selected among the best performing agents especially dimethyl isosorbide (Arlasolve DMI from Univar) and PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol® HE from BASF).

[0232] The results presented below respectively illustrate the effect of phospholipids and dimethyl isosorbide.

[0233] 2.1 Effect of methyl Isosorbide Compared to Phospholipids

[0234] Different compositions are tested on a panel of 10 individuals.

[0235] Composition A1: logwood extract and +2% DMI

[0236] Composition A2: logwood extract+cationic dyes (small quantity) with no DMI

[0237] Composition A3: logwood extract+lecithin (phospholipid) 1%

[0238] Composition B: comprising iron gluconate

[0239] Compositions A1 to A3 are prepared according to Example 1 and composition B corresponds to the example described in Example 1.

[0240] Compositions A1 to A4 are applied for 4 minutes.

[0241] Composition B is applied for 2 minutes.

[0242] The effect of the presence or absence of the colour penetration booster agent in dyeing composition A is evaluated by microscopic observation on sections of keratin fibres treated or untreated by said compositions (FIG. 1). An untreated fibre is characterized by a white halo (white border), while a treated fibre (dyed) is characterized by a black halo. The thicker this halo, the deeper the diffusion of the colour into the keratin fibre.

[0243] [FIG. 1] The results are shown in FIG. 1: FIG. 1a corresponds to the untreated condition; a thicker coloured halo is observed in FIG. 1b (treated with a composition A1 comprising DMI), compared to treatments with cationic dyes without DMI (FIG. 1c) or phospholipids (FIG. 1d).

[0244] These results show that dimethyl isosorbide promotes and/or increases the penetration of the natural dye (logwood) into the keratin fibres in an improved manner compared to phospholipids.

[0245] 2.2 Effect of Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)

[0246] Compositions similar to those described in Example 1 are reproduced; two natural dyes are used at a total content of 5%, i.e. a logwood extract (SCRD) and a chestnut extract (for example the one from the company Couleurs de plantes) in a 60/40 proportion (60% logwood extract and 40% chestnut extract).

[0247] In the comparative composition (no DMI), DMI is replaced by water.

[0248] The two compositions are evaluated at T0, T3, T7, T9 and T21 (expressed in days) according to the colour parameters L (intensity) and delta E1 (longevity) using the image capture device Visia and the image analysis software Visilog.

[0249] Values are obtained for the colorimetric parameters:

[0250] “L*” which is the luminosity of the eyebrow colour

[0251] “a*” (green/red component) and “b*” (blue/yellow component) which corresponds to the eyebrow colour

[0252] The following are measured, respectively: [0253] the difference of the perception of the colour relative to time “0” (=time before application): Delta E0 (ΔE0)=√((L0−Li).sup.2+(a0−ai).sup.2+(b0−bi).sup.2) and [0254] the difference of the perception of the colour relative to time “1” (=time immediately after application): Delta E1 (ΔE1)=√((L1−Li).sup.2+(a1−ai).sup.2+(b1−bi).sup.2)

[0255] Then the statistical analysis of these parameters (L*, Delta E0 and Delta E1) is performed.

[0256] The product longevity is validated when there is a difference between the time before application and the other measurement times for the L* and Delta E1 parameters.

[0257] The percentage of luminosity loss L* relative to the time immediately after application is calculated: %=(After−Before)/Before*100

[0258] The following results are obtained: [0259] Assessment of colour intensity (parameter L): After application, there is no difference in terms of intensity between the two compositions. At T3, T7 and T9 days, the composition according to the invention with DMI is more intense compared to the composition without DMI. At T21, this difference is still measurable. [0260] Assessment of colour longevity (parameter delta E1): After application, there is no difference in terms of colour intensity between the two compositions. At T3, T7, T9 and T21 days, the comparative composition without DMI has a greater colour change (delta E1) than the composition with DMI, which provides better colour longevity.

[0261] 2.3 Effect of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

[0262] Example 2.1 is repeated by replacing DMI with 1% PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Cetiol HE).

[0263] Dyeing composition A is applied with an exposure time of 6 minutes. According to an alternative, it is applied with an exposure time of 3 minutes.

[0264] Similar changes are observed (parameters L and delta E1) to those observed with DMI, with improved results with an exposure time of 6 minutes: the colour intensity and longevity result lasts 21 days with an exposure time of 6 minutes, versus 9 days with an exposure time of 3 minutes.

Example 3

Effect of an Oxidant Pretreatment on the Dyeing or Making Up Result

[0265] Different compositions are tested, according to the model described in Example 1: [0266] Composition A1: logwood extract and +1% DMI [0267] Composition A2: logwood extract+1% Cetiol HE [0268] Composition A3: logwood extract alone [0269] Composition A4: logwood extract+1% DMA+1% Cetiol HE [0270] Composition B: comprising iron gluconate

[0271] Compositions A1 to A4 are prepared according to Example 1 and composition B corresponds to the example described in Example 1.

[0272] Compositions A1 to A4 are applied for 4 or 6 minutes.

[0273] Composition B is applied for 2 minutes.

[0274] These different compositions are tested with or without pretreating the keratin fibres (hair and eyebrows) with an oxidant, in particular 12% hydrogen peroxide. Pretreatment with the oxidant is performed for 2 minutes or 10 minutes. This oxidant pretreatment will promote opening of the scales of the keratin fibres and thus enable better penetration of the dyes.

[0275] The effect of the oxidant pretreatment and presence of the colour penetration booster agent in dyeing composition A is evaluated by microscopic observation on treated/untreated sections of keratin fibres. A fibre untreated by the oxidant is characterized by a white halo (white border), while a treated fibre (dyed) is characterized by a black halo. The thicker this halo, the deeper the diffusion of the colour into the keratin fibre. Thus the percentage of dyed eyebrows is measured (by counting the coloured eyebrows) for each condition tested and the diffusion of the colour (thickness of the halo) is measured by using MatLab software, for eyebrows pretreated with the oxidant (eyebrows not pretreated with the oxidant do not permit such an assessment, their natural dark colourdue to the presence of melanindoes not permit documenting a colour difference).

[0276] The results (% of dyed eyebrows) are presented in Table 1 below:

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 1 Without oxidant With oxidant pretreatment pretreatment Exposure time 4 min A 6 min A 4 min A 6 min A for compositions then then then then A and B 2 min B 2 min B 2 min B 2 min B Composition A3 27% 58% 100%  80% (without penetration booster) Composition A1 50% 53% 100%  86% (DMI 1%) Composition A2 50% nd 100% 100% (CETIOL HE 1%) Composition A4 40% 74% 100% 100% (DMI 1% + CETIOL HE 1%) nd = not determined (not measured)

[0277] These results show that the pretreatment of eyebrows with an oxidant before application of compositions A and B increases the efficacy of dyeing: the number of eyebrows dyed after this pretreatment with oxidant is 100% for almost all the conditions, while without the oxidant pretreatment, a proportion of eyebrows are not dyed (black aureola not detectable with the microscope).

[0278] The use of the combination of DMI and Cetiol HE with an exposure time of 6 minutes for composition A and 2 minutes for composition B gives the best results, whether or not the keratin fibre was treated beforehand with an oxidant.

[0279] A microscope assessment of the thickness of dyed halos (in μm), representative of the diffusion of the colour into the fibre is done on eyebrows pretreated with the oxidant. As indicated above, eyebrows not pretreated with the oxidant do not permit such an assessment since their natural dark colour—due to the presence of melanindoes not make it possible to document a colour difference. The following results are obtained and shown in Table 2.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 2 Oxidant pretreatment Exposure time for 4 min A 6 min A compositions A and B then 2 min B then 2 min B Composition A3 (without 4.77 μm +/− 1.86 2.74 μm +/− 0.75 penetration booster) Composition A1 (DMI 1%) 3.68 μm +/− 0.72 3.66 μm +/− 0.77 Composition A2 3.99 μm +/− 1.31 5.52 μm +/− 1.16 ( CETIOL HE 1%) Composition A4 (DMI 3.76 μm +/− 0.30  6.2 μm +/− 1.87 1% + CETIOL HE 1%)

[0280] These results confirm that the best condition for optimal dyeing of the eyebrows is the condition 1% DMI+1% CETIOL HE with an exposure time for dyeing composition A of 6 minutes and an exposure time for revealing composition B of 2 minutes.

Example 4

Selection of an Associative Anionic Aellina Agent to Improve the Stability of Revealing Composition B in the Form of a Gel

[0281] The Applicant tested different hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents and showed that an associative anionic polymer made it possible to improve the stability of revealing composition B on contact with iron gluconate. The purpose of this study was to select the gelling agents that allow an acceptable viscosity, and that do not “break” when iron gluconate is added. Compositions B (revealing) as described in Example 1 were prepared, respectively with the following gelling agents: [0282] Gelling agent 1: Polyacrylamide & C13-14 lsoparaffin & Laureth-7 (Sepigel 305™) tested at 3 and 5% [0283] Gelling agent 2: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Tau rate Copolymer (Sepinov™ EMT10) tested at 4% [0284] Gelling agent 3: Hydroxyethyl cellulose (Natrosol 250 HR) tested at 0.5 to 4% [0285] Gelling agent 4: Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (SEP IMAX ZEN®) tested at 0.5 to 3%.

[0286] The ingredients of each composition B, except for the gelling agent and the iron gluconate, are mixed with stirring until complete dissolution; then the gelling agent is added until complete dissolution and formation of the gel; the iron gluconate is then added extemporaneously to composition B, before application of the product onto the eyebrows.

[0287] Gelling agents 1, 2 and 3 do not allow the gel to resist during the addition of iron gluconate: the gel becomes liquid and is therefore no longer applicable. In return, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 gelling agent 4 makes it possible to keep composition B stable when iron gluconate is added.

Example 5

Formulations and Implementation of the Method

[0288] 5.1 Composition A (Dye) with a Logwood Extract

TABLE-US-00005 Logwood extract*   5% Glycerol   5% Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI)   1% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30)  1.2% Alkyl glucoside   4% Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)   7% Benzylic alcohol  0.8% Sodium metabisulfite 0.05% Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs  100% *Logwood extract from the company SCRD

[0289] Dyeing composition A is prepared according to the following operating procedure: [0290] dimethyl isosorbide, glycerol, sodium metabisulfite and preservatives are mixed with water with stirring; [0291] carbomer (gelling agent) is then added to the preceding phase and mixed until complete dissolution; [0292] then 10% sodium hydroxide is added to the solution; the formula thickens immediately; [0293] then the logwood wood extract is added and mixed until complete dissolution; [0294] finally, the alkyl glycoside surfactant and water are added and the gel obtained is homogenized; [0295] the pH is verified to be between 7 and 7.5.
5.2 Composition A (Dye) with a Chestnut Extract and a Logwood Extract

TABLE-US-00006 Chestnut extract  2.5% Logwood extract*  2.5% Glycerol    5% Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI)    1% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30)  1.2% Alkyl glucoside    4% Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)    7% Benzylic alcohol  0.8% Sodium metabisulfite 0.05% Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100% *Logwood extract from the company SCRD

[0296] Composition A is prepared according to the protocol described above.

5.3 Composition A (dye) with a Mexican Logwood Extract, a Chestnut Extract and a Logwood Extract

TABLE-US-00007 Mexican logwood extract (SCRD) 1.66% Chestnut extract 1.66% Logwood extract* 1.66% Glycerol    5% Dimethyl isosorbide (DMI)    1% Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30)  1.2% Alkyl glucoside    4% Sodium hydroxide (10% solution)    7% Benzylic alcohol  0.8% Sodium metabisulfite 0.05% Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100% *Logwood extract from the company SCRD

5.4 Revealing Composition B Comprising Iron Gluconate

[0297]

TABLE-US-00008 Thickening polyacrylate polymer 0.5% (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, SEPIMAX ZEN ® from SEPPIC) Sodium carbonate 0.5% Benzylic alcohol 0.8% Preservatives qs Demineralized water qs 100% Iron gluconate 3.6%

[0298] Revealing composition B is prepared according to the following operating procedure: [0299] the ingredients, except for the gelling agent and iron gluconate are mixed with stirring until complete dissolution; [0300] then the gelling agent is added until complete dissolution and formation of the gel; [0301] iron gluconate is added extemporaneously to composition B, before applying the product onto the eyelashes

5.5 Method for Dyeing or Making Up the Eyebrows

[0302] The protocol for dyeing or making up the eyebrows successively implementing composition A and composition B described above is as follows: [0303] 1/Clean the eyebrows with micellar water [0304] 2/Wipe with a cotton ball soaked in water [0305] 3/Brush the eyebrows with a bottle brush [0306] 4/Wipe the eyebrow to remove all traces of moisture using a tissue [0307] 5/Apply Vaseline in a very thick layer around the eyebrow so as not to stain the skin [0308] 6/Apply composition A in a thick layer, following the line of the eyebrow so as to cover all the hairs (exposure time: 4 min. Do not wipe the product) [0309] 7/Mixture of composition B: add iron gluconate into the white jar containing composition B and mix until there are no more particles [0310] 8/Apply composition B thus prepared extemporaneously in a thick layer on top of composition A, carefully following the line of the eyebrow so as to fully cover all the hairs (exposure time: 2 min. During this time, correct the contour of the eyebrow if necessary using a cotton swab). [0311] 9/At the end of 2 min of exposure, wipe off the excess product with a dry cotton ball followed by a cotton ball moistened with mater (mist) Retouches possible.

[0312] A brown colour is obtained on the eyelashes with good longevity.