Process for treating keratin fibres using an aqueous composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, which comprises the application of a composition comprising: (a) one or more alkoxysilanes comprising solubilizing function(s) of formula R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R.sub.3).sub.x(OH).sub.y, and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof, (b) one or more alkylalkoxysilanes of formula (R.sub.4).sub.mSi(OR.sub.5).sub.n and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof, and (c) water in an amount of greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a composition comprising components (a), (b) and (c), and (d) one or more thickeners.

Claims

1. A process for shaping and/or caring for hair, the process comprising applying a composition (A) comprising: (a) at least one alkoxysilane bearing at least one solubilizing function of formula (I) below, and/or oligomers thereof:
R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R.sub.3).sub.x(OH).sub.y  (I) wherein: R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more groups chosen from the following groups: amine NH.sub.2 or NHR, R being: i) a C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl group optionally substituted with a group comprising a silicon atom, ii) a C.sub.3-C.sub.40 cycloalkyl group, or iii) a C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aromatic group, hydroxyl, thiol, or aryl or aryloxy which is or unsubstituted, or optionally substituted with an amino group or with a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 aminoalkyl group, R.sub.1 optionally being interrupted with a heteroatom chosen from O, S or NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which may be identical or different, each represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with the proviso that z+x+y=3, (b) at least one alkylalkoxysilane of formula (III) below, and/or oligomers thereof:
(R.sub.4).sub.mSi(OR.sub.5).sub.n  (III) wherein: R4 and R5 each represent, independently of each other, a C.sub.1-6 alkyl group, n ranges from 1 to 3, m ranges from 1 to 3, with the proviso that m+n=4, and (c) water in an amount of greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein compounds (a) and (b) are present in an (a)/(b) weight ratio ranging from 1 to 10; wherein the oligomers of the at least one alkoxysilane are polymerization products of the at least one alkoxysilane and the oligomers of the at least one alkylalkoxysilane are polymerization products of the at least one alkylalkoxysilane, and wherein the oligomers of both the at least one alkoxysilane and the at least one alkylalkoxysilane comprise from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with an amine group NH.sub.2 or NHR, R being: i) a C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl group optionally substituted with a group comprising a silicon atom, ii) a C.sub.3-C.sub.40 cycloalkyl, or iii) a C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aromatic group.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the alkoxysilane bearing at least one solubilizing function (a) is chosen from 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 3-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3-aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane and bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine, oligomers thereof, or mixtures thereof.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the alkoxysilane bearing at least one solubilizing function (a) is chosen from those of formula (II) and/or oligomers thereof:
H.sub.2N(CH.sub.2).sub.n″—Si(OR′).sub.3  (II) wherein the groups R′, which may be identical or different, are each chosen from linear or branched C.sub.1-C.sub.6 alkyl groups and n″ is an integer ranging from 1 to 6.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the alkoxysilane bearing at least one solubilizing function (a) is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The process according to claim 1, wherein in formula (III), R.sub.5 represents a methyl, ethyl, or n-propyl group; n=3; and m=1.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the alkylalkoxysilane (b) is chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), methyltripropyloxysilane, or oligomers thereof.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the alkylalkoxysilane (b) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein water is present in an amount ranging from 30% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. A composition comprising: (a) 0.5% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one alkoxysilane bearing at least one solubilizing function of formula (I) below, and/or oligomers thereof:
R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R.sub.3).sub.x(OH).sub.y  (I) wherein: R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more groups chosen from the following groups: amine NH.sub.2 or NHR, R being: i) a C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl group optionally substituted with a group comprising a silicon atom, ii) a C.sub.3-C.sub.40 cycloalkyl group, or iii) a C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aromatic group, hydroxyl, thiol, or aryl or aryloxy which is substituted or unsubstituted, or optionally substituted with an amino group or with a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 aminoalkyl group, R.sub.1 optionally being interrupted with a heteroatom chosen from O, S or NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which may be identical or different, each represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with the proviso that z+x+y=3, (b) at least one alkylalkoxysilane of formula (III) below, and/or oligomers thereof:
(R.sub.4).sub.mSi(OR.sub.5).sub.n  (III) wherein: R.sub.4 and R.sub.5 each represent, independently of each other, a C.sub.1-6 alkyl group, n ranges from 1 to 3, m ranges from 1 to 3, with the proviso that m+n=4, (c) water in an amount of greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one thickener, wherein compounds (a) and (b) are present in an (a)/(b) weight ratio ranging from 1 to 10; wherein the oligomers of the at least one alkoxysilane are polymerization products of the at least one alkoxysilane and the oligomers of the at least one alkylalkoxysilane are polymerization products of the at least one alkylalkoxysilane, and wherein the oligomers of both the at least one alkoxysilane and the at least one alkylalkoxysilane comprise from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

12. A process for shaping and/or conditioning the hair, the process comprising applying a composition comprising: (a) at least one alkoxysilane bearing at least one solubilizing function of formula (I) below, and/or oligomers thereof:
R.sub.1Si(OR.sub.2).sub.z(R.sub.3).sub.x(OH).sub.y  (I) wherein: R.sub.1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C.sub.1-C.sub.6 hydrocarbon-based chain substituted with one or more groups chosen from the following groups: amine NH.sub.2 or NHR, R being: i) a C.sub.1-C.sub.20 alkyl group optionally substituted with a group comprising a silicon atom, ii) a C.sub.3-C.sub.40 cycloalkyl group, or iii) a C.sub.6-C.sub.30 aromatic group, hydroxyl, thiol, or aryl or aryloxy which is substituted or unsubstituted, or optionally substituted with an amino group or with a C.sub.1-C.sub.4 aminoalkyl group, R.sub.1 optionally being interrupted with a heteroatom chosen from O, S or NH, or a carbonyl group (CO), R.sub.2 and R.sub.3, which may be identical or different, each represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with the proviso that z+x+y=3, (b) at least one alkylalkoxysilane of formula (III) below, and/or oligomers thereof:
(R.sub.4).sub.mSi(OR.sub.5).sub.n  (III) wherein: R.sub.4 and R.sub.5 each represent, independently of each other, a C.sub.1-6 alkyl group, n ranges from 1 to 3, m ranges from 1 to 3, with the proviso that m+n=4, (c) water in an amount of greater than 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (d) at least one thickener, wherein compounds (a) and (b) are present in an (a)/(b) weight ratio ranging from 1 to 10; wherein the oligomers of the at least one alkoxysilane are polymerization products of the at least one alkoxysilane and the oligomers of the at least one alkylalkoxysilane are polymerization products of the at least one alkylalkoxysilane, and wherein the oligomers of both the at least one alkoxysilane and the at least one alkylalkoxysilane comprise from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

(1) Compositions according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. All the percentages are by weight and the amounts indicated are expressed as % by weight of product in its existing form, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Formulation 1 2 3 4 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 5 5 7.5 Methyltriethoxysilane 1.5 1.5 3 2.25 Lactic acid (90% of active — 1.9 — 2.8 material (AM)) Hydrochloric acid (33.5% — — 1.25 — of AM) Water qs 100 100 100 100 Formulation 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 Methyltriethoxysilane 1.5 1.5 3 3 3 3 3 Lactic acid (90% of AM) 2.5 3.75 — — 0.87 1.05 2.5 Hydrochloric acid (33.5% — — — 2.5 — — — by weight of AM) Water qs 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Formulation 12 13 14 15 16 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 10 20 20 20  10 Methyltriethoxysilane 3 3 6 6 3 Lactic acid (90% of AM) 6 5 5 — 6 Hydrochloric acid (33.5% — — — 5 — of AM) Ethanol — — — — 20 Water qs 100 100 100 100  100 Formulation 17 18 19 20 21 22 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 5 10 10 10 10 Methyltriethoxysilane 1.5 1.5 3 3 3 3 Lactic acid (90% of AM) 2 3 3.5 3.5 6 6 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 0.7 — 1.5 1.5 2 (Natrosol 250 HHR - Ashland) Polysorbate 20 0.5 — 0.5 — — 0.75 Polyoxyethylenated (PEG- 0.5 — 0.5 — — 0.75 40) and hydrogenated castor oil Phenoxyethanol 0.7 — 0.7 — 0.7 0.7 Methylisothiazolinone 0.1 — 0.1 — 0.1 0.1 (9.5% of AM) Fragrance 0.5 — 0.5 — — 0.75 Water qs 100 100 100 100 100 100 Formulation 23 24 25 26 27 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 10 10 10 5 10 Methyltriethoxysilane 3 3 3 1.5 3 Lactic acid (90% of AM) 3.5 3.5 6 3 6 Hydroxyethylcellulose — — 2 2 2 (Natrosol 250 HHR - Ashland) Methylethyl — 1.5 — — — hydroxyethylcellulose (Structure Cel 8000M - AkzoNobel) Steareth-100/PEG-136/ 4 — — — — hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) copolymer (Rheoluxe 811, Elementis) Ethanol — — — 20 20 Polysorbate 20 — — 0.75 0.5 0.75 Polyoxyethylenated (PEG-40) — — 0.75 0.5 0.75 and hydrogenated castor oil Phenoxyethanol — — 0.7 0.7 0.7 Methylisothiazolinone (9.5% — — 0.1 0.1 0.1 of AM) Fragrance — — 0.75 0.5 0.75 Water qs 100 100 100 100 100 Formulation 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 5 5 5 5 10  10 Methyltriethoxysilane 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 3 3 Lactic acid (90% of A.M.) 2 1.75 1.75 1.75 1.75 1 3.5 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.7 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 — — (Natrosol 250 HHR - Ashland) Polyquaternium-4 — — — — — 1 — (Cellquat LOR AkzoNobel) Polyquaternium-6 (Merquat-100 3 — — — — — — Lubrizol) Vinylpyrrolidone/ dimethylamino- — — 12 17 — — — ethyl methacrylate copolymer (20% of AM) (Copolymer 845-0 Ashland) Vinylamine/vinylformamide — 6.25 — — 9 — — copolymer (13% of AM) (Luviquat 9030 BASF) Polyquaternium-86 (Luvigel — — — — — — 3 Advanced BASF) Polysorbate 20 0.5 — — — — — — Polyoxyethylenated (PEG-40) 0.5 — — — — — — and hydrogenated castor oil Phenoxyethanol 0.7 — — — — — — Methylisothiazolinone (9.5% 0.1 — — — — — — of AM) Fragrance 0.5 — — — — — — Water qs 100 100 100 100 100 100  100 Formulation 35 36 37 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 10 5 10 Methyltriethoxysilane 3 1.5 3 Lactic acid (containing 90% by 0.87 1.75 4 weight of AM) Hydroxyethylcellulose — 1.5 — (Natrosol 250 HHR - Ashland) Vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate 2 16 — copolymer (50% of AM) (Luviskol VA 64 W BASF) Isododecane — — 20 Water qs 100 100 100 Comparative example 1 2 3 4 Aminopropyltriethoxysilane — —  10  20 Methyltriethoxysilane    1.5  6 — — Lactic acid (90% of AM) qs pH 3 qs pH 3  6  6 Water qs 100 100 100 100

(3) The general preparation mode for the above compositions is as follows: at room temperature, the methyltriethoxysilane was added to half the water used for the composition, followed by part of the pH agent (lactic acid or hydrochloric acid) to reach pH 3.

(4) Separately, the aminopropyltriethoxysilane was mixed with the remaining water useful for the composition and the rest of the pH agent.

(5) After having obtained a homogeneous first mixture, the two solutions were combined and the other ingredients were then added.

(6) Locks of natural wet hair were treated with formulations 1-37.

(7) In particular, formulation 20 was applied at a rate of 150 mg per gram of hair over the entire length of the lock. After drying, the lock of hair was placed horizontally, blocked by a jaw at the hair attachment and the angle it made with the horizontal was observed, and also the maintenance of this angle after series of mechanical stresses (crushing of the lock in flat tongs, which are drawn over the entire length). The level of fixing obtained was equivalent to that of a fixing gel based on common polymers such as crosslinked acrylates/C.sub.10-30 alkyl acrylate polymer, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer and vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer.

(8) In addition, the lock thus treated with formulation 20 is more resistant to the mechanical stress: it withstands eight passages of the flat tongs. However, a lock treated with the above fixing gel, which makes it possible to obtain the same level of fixing, breaks after two passages.

(9) In addition, the locks treated with formulation 20 retained a soft feel, and an absence of residue formation was observed.

(10) Other locks of wet hair were then treated with formulation 17 in the same manner as above and compared with a reference formulation used for giving hairstyles moisture resistance, based on behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyl alcohol, amodimethicone, trideceth-6 and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethicone, laureth-4 and laureth-23 and PPG-5-ceteth-20.

(11) The moisture resistance of the locks was then evaluated after drying with a hairdryer. Eight locks treated with formulation 17 were placed in a chamber at controlled humidity (80%) for 24 hours at 25° C. The eight locks thus treated remain non-tacky and regain very little volume in comparison with eight other locks treated with the reference formulation (56% vs 71%, respectively, expressed as effective area by analysis of photographs of the locks: area delimited by the contour of the lock).

(12) The compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 are unstable and were not able to be evaluated.

(13) The compositions of comparative examples 3 and 4 are tacky and do not deliver sufficient fixing performance.

(14) Furthermore, bleached locks, treated with compositions 17 or 20 and then dried, were subsequently washed with a commercial shampoo based on sodium lauryl ether sulfate and cocoyl betaine. They were then rinsed and it was observed that the disentangling was markedly easier than for untreated locks or locks treated with usual styling compositions.

Example 2

(15) The pretreatment compositions (A) and the post-treatment compositions (B) were prepared, using the ingredients indicated in the tables below. All the percentages are by weight and the amounts indicated are expressed as % by weight of product in its existing form, relative to the total weight of each composition.

(16) TABLE-US-00002 Pretreatment composition (A) A1 A2 A3 A4 A5 Aminopropyl- 5 5 10 10 10 triethoxysilane Methyltriethoxysilane 1.5   1.5 1.5   1.5 1.5 Lactic acid 1.75*  3** 2.5*   6** 3.75 Water qs 100 100  100 100  100 *and qs pH 9; **and qs pH 5

(17) TABLE-US-00003 Post-treatment composition (B) B2 B3 B4 B5 Sodium stearyl sulfate 1 2 3 — Cetearyl alcohol 3 4 7 — Mexoryl SX — — — 0.25 Water qs 100  100  100  100

(18) Compositions A1 to A5 were first prepared in the following manner: an aqueous solution comprising half the final amount of water and the lactic acid was prepared in an amount such that the pH is equal to 3, and this solution was then mixed with the methyltriethoxysilane. The mixture was stirred for 30 minutes at room temperature.

(19) In parallel, the aminopropyltriethoxysilane was diluted in the other half of the final amount of water, and the remaining amount of lactic acid was added thereto, followed, after 30 minutes, by the solution obtained with the methyltriethoxysilane. If necessary, the mixture was made up with water to obtain the desired amount of formulation.

(20) Next, each composition was applied to locks of natural, dyed or sensitized wet or dry hair, in an amount of 150 mg per gram of hair (in leave-in mode) or 400 mg per gram of hair (in rinse-out mode). After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the hair was dried, or was rinsed with water and then dried. The drying is natural, or else is facilitated by applying the heat of a hairdryer, optionally flat tongs.

(21) After this pretreatment, the locks were wetted and compositions B2 to B5 were applied in an amount of 400 mg of composition per gram of hair. After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water and then dried. The hair is dried naturally, or else heat is applied using a hairdryer, optionally flat tongs.

(22) With compositions B2 to B4, the locks obtained are very easy to disentangle, when the hair is wet or dry. In addition, they remain supple during the subsequent application of a shampoo.

(23) Chestnut-brown or artificially dyed locks, pretreated with one of the formulations A1 to A5 and then treated with composition B5, show much better resistance to UV exposure than the untreated chestnut-brown or dyed locks.

(24) Persistence of the cosmetic properties obtained, after several shampoo washes, is also obtained.

Example 3

(25) Formulation 38 according to the invention and comparative formulation 39 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. All the percentages are by weight and the amounts indicated are expressed as % by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the formulation.

(26) TABLE-US-00004 38 39 (Invention) (Comparative) Octyltriethoxysilane — 5 (Dynasilan OCTEO - EVONIK) Methyltriethoxy silane (MTES) 5 — Aminopropyltriethoxysilane 5 5 (XIAMETER OFS-6011 SILANE - DOW CORNING) Coco glucoside 1 1 (PLANTACARE 818 UP - COGNIS) Hydroxyethylcellulose   0.6   0.6 (Natrosol 250 HHR PC - ASHLAND) Lactic acid 2 2 Eau Qs 100 Qs 100

(27) The stability of both formulations was evaluated. After their preparation, they were stored for 7 days in an oven at 66° C.

(28) After 7 days, a phase separation was observed for formulation 39 whereas formulation 38 remains homogeneous.

(29) Therefore, formulation 38 according to the invention has an improved stability when compared to that of comparative formulation 39.