HAIR SHAPING PROCESS USING A COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SILICONE ACRYLIC COPOLYMER
20210378941 · 2021-12-09
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K2800/805
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61Q5/06
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/895
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention relates to a process for shaping keratin fibers using a composition comprising at least one silicone acrylic copolymer.
Claims
1.-17. (canceled)
18. A process for shaping keratin fibers comprising: i. applying to the keratin fibers a composition comprising at least one silicone acrylic copolymer, wherein the silicone acrylic copolymer comprises at least the following units: a) a polydimethylsiloxane unit, the polydimethylsiloxane unit including at least one polymerizable radical group on each of two ends of the unit, and b) an alkyl acrylate or methacrylate unit comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and ii. applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool, the application of heat taking place before, during or after the application of the composition.
19. The process of claim 18, wherein the silicone acrylic copolymer comprises at least the following units: a) a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit including at least one polymerizable radical group on each of the two ends of the chain chosen from an acrylic or methacrylic group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and b) a C.sub.1-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate unit.
20. The process of claim 18, wherein the silicone acrylic copolymer comprises at least the following units: a) a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit including at least one polymerizable radical group on each of the two ends of the chain chosen from a CH.sub.2=CH—COOA- group, where A represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms; and b) a C.sub.1-C.sub.22 alkyl acrylate or methacrylate unit.
21. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises the silicone acrylic copolymer(s) in a total amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises the silicone acrylic copolymer(s) in a total amount ranging from about 1% to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
23. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises one or more fatty substances.
24. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises one or more fatty substances chosen from saturated hydrocarbons including a carbon number of between 8 and 16 and/or mixtures thereof.
25. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises the fatty substance(s) in a total content ranging from about 0.1% to about 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises the fatty substance(s) in a total content ranging from about 5% to about 92% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
27. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises one or more film-forming polymers other than the silicone acrylic copolymer, chosen from cationic, anionic, amphoteric, or nonionic film-forming polymers, or mixtures thereof.
28. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises one or more cationic and/or anionic acrylic film-forming polymers other than the silicone acrylic copolymer.
29. The process of claim 27, wherein the composition comprises the film-forming polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
30. The process of claim 27, wherein the composition comprises the film-forming polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from about 1% to about 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
31. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises one or more thickeners chosen from mineral and organic thickeners and/or mixtures thereof.
32. The process of claim 31, wherein the composition comprises the thickener(s) in a total amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
33. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition comprises one or more organic solvents other than fatty substances.
34. The process of claim 18, wherein the composition is a noncoloring composition.
35. The process of claim 18, wherein the step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool is performed at a temperature of between 30° C. and 230° C.
36. The process of claim 18, wherein the heating tool is chosen from one or more of a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a hood, a hairdryer, an infrared heating system, or heating curlers.
37. The process of claim 18, wherein applying heat takes place after applying the composition.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0254] 1. Preparation of the Compositions
[0255] Compositions A to G according to the invention and the comparative composition H were prepared using the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below as weight percentages of starting material relative to the total weight of the composition.
TABLE-US-00001 A B C D E F G H Silicone acrylic copolymer 12.5 8.75 12.5 8.75 12.5 12.5 8.75 — (containing 40% by weight (5am) (3.5am) (5am) (3.5am) (5am) (5am) (3.5am) active material in isododecane) (1) Styrene/ethylene-propylene — — — 5 — — — — diblock copolymer (2) Ethyl cellulose — — — — 2 — — Styrene/acrylates/ammonium — — — — — — 10 — methacrylate copolymer (3) Isohexadecane qs — — — — — — — 100% Isododecane — — — qs qs — — qs 100% 100% 100% Ethanol — qs qs — — qs qs — 100% 100% 100% 100% (1) Granacrysil BMAS, sold by the company Grant Industries. (2) Kraton, G1701 EU SQR 1111 sold by the company Kraton Polymers. (3) Syntran 5760 CG, sold by the company Interpolymer.
[0256] 2. Application Protocols
The protocols for application (to locks of hair, malleable heads or models) were as follows:
TABLE-US-00002 Protocol according to the invention Comparative protocol Shampooing Shampooing Application of the composition onto Applying the composition to wet, wet straight or curly natural hair straight or curly natural hair Predrying with a hairdryer or blow- Drying naturally drying Straightening iron (3 passes at the roots at 210° C.)
[0257] 3. Evaluation and Results
[0258] The evaluation protocol after drying relates to the evaluation of the impact on the shape, the cosmetic criteria (feel) and the appearance criteria (macroscopic effects, SEM visualization).
[0259] The shampoo-persistence evaluation protocol is as follows. Performance of several cycles:
[0260] Wetting of the Hair
[0261] Shampooing
[0262] Rinsing
[0263] Drying with a hairdryer
[0264] Evaluation of the impact on the shape, the cosmetic criteria (feel) and the appearance criteria (macroscopic effects, SEM visualization).
[0265] 3.1 Appearance of Locks by SEM
[0266] Observations by scanning electron microscope (SEM) demonstrate the surface state of treated hair, on the day of application and after shampoo washing, and reveal the quality of the coating formed by the polymer and its persistence.
[0267] The evaluated locks of hair lead to the following observations (application of 0.4 g of composition/g of hair).
[0268] With composition A according to the invention and by following the protocol according to the invention, homogeneous, uniform and covering coating of the fiber was observed. This coating is persistent for up to five shampoo washes. This coating is thicker and more uniform when the heating tool used is the straightening iron. The same effects are observed with composition B, with persistence of the coating to up to three shampoo washes.
[0269] With composition A according to the invention and according to the comparative protocol, fine and non-uniform, irregular coating in the form of aggregates was observed. Furthermore, the deposit is only very sparingly persistent on the fiber. Thus, heat allows better distribution and better adhesion of the polymer to the fiber, which affords the persistence of the effects on shampooing.
[0270] 3.2 Cosmetic Aspects 3.2.1. Volume—Evaluation on Malleable Heads
[0271] Malleable heads are provided for this test. Each of the compositions C and D was applied to these malleable heads. The compositions are applied per half-head, i.e. on the right or left side of the head of hair separated by a line in the middle, at a rate of 4 g per half-head. The effects thereof are compared with the other half-head on which only water is applied in the same amounts. By following the protocol according to the invention (shampooing, applying the formulation to wet hair and to the roots, predrying with a hairdryer and treating the roots three times with a straightening iron at 210° C.), a gain in volume is observed, with persistence for up to three shampoo washes for the half-heads treated with each of the compositions C and D.
[0272] 3.2.2. Volume—Evaluation by consumers and professionals
[0273] An evaluation of composition D was also performed in terms of gain in volume and of volume persistence after several shampoo washes after applying this composition by consumers and professionals. The test was performed by 6 hairstylists and 24 consumers with fine hair. By following the protocol according to the invention (shampooing, applying formulation D to wet hair and to the roots, predrying using a hairdryer and treating the roots three times with a straightening iron at 210° C.), a gain in volume is observed, with an immediate effect and with persistence for up to three shampoo washes.
[0274] 3.2.3. Curls—Evaluation on Locks
[0275] Composition E according to the invention was applied according to the protocol according to the invention (shampooing, applying the formulation to wet hair at a rate of 0.15 g of composition/g of hair, predrying using a hairdryer and treating the entire length of the locks three times with a straightening iron at 210° C.), on locks of type IV curly hair. Its efficiency was compared with control locks treated only with isododecane, composition H, applied in the same amount. Better curl definition was observed, with persistence for up to five shampoo washes for the hair treated with composition E.