Photoprotective cosmetic composition and process for obtaining the same

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises:—at least one monoglyceride,—at least one tartaric ester of monoglycerides based on C12-C22,—at least one UV filter,—at least one HLB surfactant greater than 10, and—at least one hydrophilic gelling agent wherein the content of said one or more surfactant(s) having a HLB greater than 10 is comprised between 0.2% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Claims

1. A composition that comprises A) a coagel phase that comprises I) at least one monoglyceride, II) at least one tartaric ester of monoglycerides based on C12-C22 fatty acids III) water, B) at least one UV filter, C) at least one surfactant having a HLB greater than 10, and D) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; wherein the content of said at least one surfactant having a HLB greater than 10 is between 0.2% and 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, wherein the composition comprises a monoglyceride content from 1% to 20% by weight based on the total weight of said composition, and wherein the tartaric ester of monoglyceride content ranges from 0.05% to 2% by weight based on the total weight of said composition.

2. The composition, according to claim 1, which comprises an aqueous phase.

3. The composition, according to claim 1, which comprises as a monoglyceride one or more monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

4. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

5. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises monoglyceride content from 2% to 10 by weight based on the total weight of said composition.

6. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the tartaric ester of monoglycerides of fatty acids is a diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglyceride comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

7. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the tartaric ester of monoglyceride content ranges from 0.1% to 1% by weight based on the total weight of said composition.

8. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the composition comprises as a UV filter at least one UV filter chosen from organic lipophilic UV filters, organic hydrophilic UV filters, insoluble organic UV filters, mineral filters or any of the mixtures thereof.

9. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the UV filter comprises a lipophilic UV filter.

10. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant having a HLB greater than 10 is chosen from polysorbate 20, bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, disodium ethylene dicocamide PEG-15 disulfate, potassium cetyl phosphate, TEA stearate, and any of the mixtures thereof.

11. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum, copolymers of acrylamide and acryloyldimethyltaurate of sodium and mixtures thereof.

12. A method for preparing a composition according to claim 1, which comprises the following steps (a), (b) and (c): Step (a), comprising the sub-steps: (i) of mixing M1 of at least one monoglyceride, at least one tartaric ester of monoglyceride of fatty acids and at least water, (ii) possibly of increasing the temperature of said mixture, (iii) of maintaining the temperature of said mixture over time at a temperature higher than the ambient temperature, (iv) decreasing the temperature of said mixture, optionally by adding a liquid at an ambient temperature, and (v) the possible adding of at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; Step (b), comprising the sub-steps: (i) of mixing M2 of at least one UV filter and a solvent, (ii) optionally of increasing the temperature of said mixture, (iii) of maintaining the temperature of said mixture over time at a temperature higher than the ambient temperature, (iv) adding of at least one surfactant having a HLB greater than 10, optionally heated beforehand, (v) optionally adding a hydrophilic gelling agent, and (vi) decreasing the temperature of said mixture, with at least one of the steps (a)(v) and (b)(v) comprising the adding of a hydrophilic gelling agent; Step (c) comprising the sub-step of mixing the mixtures M1 and M2 coming from the step (a) and from the step (b).

13. The method according to claim 12, wherein-the temperature of the mixture during the sub-step (iii) of the step (a) and/or (b) is between 55 and 65° C.

14. A method for protecting from the rays of the sun, which comprises applying a composition according to claim 1 on a body area of a human being.

15. A method for protecting from the rays of the sun, which comprises applying a composition according to claim 1 a skin area, of a human being.

16. The composition, according to claim 2, which comprises as a monoglyceride one or more monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

17. The composition, according to claim 2, wherein the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

18. The composition, according to claim 3, wherein the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

19. The composition, according to claim 2, wherein the composition comprises monoglyceride content from 2% to 10% by weight based on the total weight of said composition.

20. The composition, according to claim 1, wherein the UV filter is chosen from drometrizole trisiloxane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyltriazone and any of the mixtures thereof.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Cosmetic Composition and the Method for Preparing it According to the Invention

Cosmetic Composition

(1) TABLE-US-00001 mass Phase INCI name (possible comment) Trade name % A GLYCERYL STEARATE TEGIN 90 6 (Monoglyceride) PELLETS DIACETYL TARTARIC ACID PANODAN 0.2 ESTERS OF MONO AND A2020 MB DIGLYCERIDES OF FATTY ACIDS WATER 24.98 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 B CITRIC ACID 0.05 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 GLYCERIN 5 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (UV filter) MICRO 3 TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-900Z D WATER 19.92 E XANTHAN GUM KELTROL 0.2 CG-T ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM SIMULGEL 1 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE 600 COPOLYMER F C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE FINSOLV TN 10 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE SILATRIZOLE 2 (UV filter) DIETHYLAMINO UVINUL A HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL PLUS 3 BENZOATE (UV filter) GRANULAR ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE UVINUL 2.5 (UV filter) T 150 WATER 17.55 POLYSORBATE 20 (HLB surfactant TWEEN 20 1 greater than 10) ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM SIMULGEL 1 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE 600 COPOLYMER (Hydrophilic gelling agent) total 100
Methods for Preparing:
Step (a), Starting from Phases A, B, C, D and E 1. Fill the mixture of phases A+B+C in a melter, keep the temperature at 65° C. for 45 minutes with stirring at 600 rpm until a homogeneous and opalescent phase. 2. Stop the flow of heat and add D at ambient temperature in order to quickly cool with vigorous stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm. 3. Add E with stirring at ambient temperature.
Step (b), (Phase F) 1. Introduce the UV filters and the solvent in a melter, maintain the temperature at 80° C. for 15 mins with stirring 600 rpm. 2. Add in 1. the water and the surfactant heated beforehand to 70° C. under vigorous stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm for 15 mins. 3. Add the hydrophilic gelling agent with vigorous stirring between 2000 and 4000 rpm for 2 mins. 4. Cool with slow stirring with coaxial blades 90 rpm and scraping 30 rpm.
Step (c) Place the two phases obtained in the step (a) and the step (b) in the tank and mix with slow stirring with coaxial blades 90 rpm and scraping 30 rpm for 15 mins until a homogeneous, smooth and glossy phase is obtained.

Example 2 and Comparative Example A

Cosmetic Compositions and Associated Performance in Photoprotection

(2) Cosmetic Composition:

(3) TABLE-US-00002 Ex. Ex. Phase INCI name (possible comment) 2 A A GLYCERYL STEARATE (Monoglyceride) 6 DIACETYL TARTARIC ACID ESTERS OF 0.2 0.2 MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES OF FATTY ACIDS WATER 63.50 60.50 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 B PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 GLYCERIN 5 5 C GLYCERYL STEARATE (Monoglyceride) 6 PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE 3 CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) CRODA) TITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100 T V from 3 3 TAYCA C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE (solvent) 10 10 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE (UV filter) 2 2 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL 3.0 3.0 HEXYL BENZOATE (UV filter) ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (UV filter) 2.5 2.5 D XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 E ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM 2 2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (SIMULGEL 600 Total 100 100
Properties of the Formulas After 24 h:

(4) TABLE-US-00003 Example 2 Example A Aspect Fluid cream Thick and non- glossy cream Microscopy Crystal dispersion Emulsion SPF measured 95.63 42.85 in Vitro
Methods for Preparing:

(5) The method of the formula of example 2 is similar to that of example 1.

(6) It consists in forming a hot fatty lamellar phase then in incorporating therein the UV filters just before the drop in temperature (65°).

(7) In comparison, if the UV filters and the glyceryl stearate are emulsioned as a wax thanks to the adding of a surfactant such as CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) CRODA of HLB such that 5<HLB<6 (Example A), an different organization of the fatty phase of coagel is obtained, which does not make it possible to obtain as good photoprotection as in example 2 (shown by the value of SPF).

Example 3

Improvement in the Stability of the Composition by Adding a Surfactant Having a HLB Greater Than 10. (Comparative Composition (ex.3) Compared to Example 1)

(8) TABLE-US-00004 Ex. 3 (compar- Phase INCI name (possible comment) ison) Ex. 1 A GLYCERYL STEARATE 6 6 (Monoglyceride) DIACETYL TARTARIC ACID 0.2 0.2 ESTERS OF MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES OF FATTY ACIDS WATER 24.98 24.98 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 B CITRIC ACID (for adjusting the pH) 0.00 0.05 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 GLYCERIN 5 5 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (UV filter) 3 3 D WATER 20.97 19.92 E XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM 1 1 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (SIMULGEL 600) F C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE (solvent) 10 10 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE 2 2 (UV filter) DIETHYLAMINO 3 3 HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE (UV filter) ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (UV filter) 2.5 2.5 WATER 17.55 17.55 POLYSORBATE 20 (HLB surfactant 1 greater than 10) ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM 1 1 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXA- DECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (Hydrophilic gelling agent) total 100 100 Comments Unstable Stable dispersion dispersion and non- and homo- homo- geneous geneous application application
Methods for Preparing:

(9) The method of the formula of example 1 is described precisely in example 1 hereinabove. It consists in first forming during the step called (a) that fatty phase of coagel. During the step called (b), an emulsion of the UV filters is carried out, thanks to the adding of a surfactant having a HLB greater than 10. During the step (c), the emulsion obtained during the step (b) can then be introduced extemporaneously, at ambient temperature, in the fatty phase of coagel obtained during the step (a).

(10) The formula of example 1 is stable over time, i.e. it remains homogeneous over time and its performance, in particular with regards to photoprotection, does not change over time.

(11) Contrary to example 1, in example 3, the UV filters of the phase F were introduced in step (a) of the formation of the fatty phase of coagel. There is therefore no separate step (a), (b) and (c). In addition, the composition according to example 3 does not contain any surfactant having a HLB greater than 10, such as for example polysorbate 20.

(12) The formula of example 3 is not homogeneous to the application (impurity), or over time. It is unstable over time contrary to the formula of example 1.

(13) This example shows the importance of the surfactant having a surfactant greater than 10 and of the associated method of manufacture, which makes it possible to obtain a stable dispersion and a homogeneous application.

Example 4

Improvement in the Performance in Terms of Photoprotection of the Composition Thanks to the Tartaric Ester of Monoglyceride of Fatty Acids. (Comparative Composition (ex.4) Compared to the Example 1)

(14) TABLE-US-00005 Phase INCI name (possible comment) Ex. 4 Ex. 1 A GLYCERYL STEARATE (Monoglyceride) 6 6 DIACETYL TARTARIC ACID ESTERS 0.2 OF MONO AND DIGLYCERIDES OF FATTY ACIDS STEARIC/ ACID 0.1 TRIETHANOLAMINE 0.05 WATER 24.91 24.98 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 B CITRIC ACID (for adjusting the pH) 0.03 0.05 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 GLYCERIN 5 5 C TITANIUM DIOXIDE (UV filter) 3 3 D WATER 19.92 19.92 E XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDI- 1 1 METHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 F C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE (solvent) 10 10 DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE (UV filter) 2 2 DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL 3 3 HEXYL BENZOATE (UV filter) ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE (UV filter) 2.5 2.5 WATER 17.55 17.55 POLYSORBATE 20 (HLB surfactant 1 1 greater than 10) ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM 1 1 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (Hydrophilic gelling agent) total 100 100

(15) Methods for preparing: the methods for preparing of the example 1 and 4 are identical between them and identical to the method described in example 1. The formulas of examples 1 and 4 are stable over time.

(16) However, the performance in terms of photoprotection of the formula of example 1 is much higher than that of example 4. Indeed, the SPF measured (in vivo) is 46.7 for example 1 compared to 28.1 for example 2.

(17) This example shows the importance of the Tartaric ester of monoglyceride of fatty acids in the composition according to the invention. It makes it possible to obtain an improvement in the photoprotection.