LONG-LASTING COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

A composition for coating keratin fibres, in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion including, in a first continuous aqueous phase, at least one legume starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, at least one plasticiser chosen among the polyols, at least one wax, at least one emulsifier and at least one colouring agent. Also, the use of such a composition in order to provide keratin fibres, in particular eyelashes, with a lengthening and curling effect.

Claims

1-18. (canceled)

19. A wax-in-water cosmetic emulsion comprising: at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferentially between 30% and 75%, at least one plasticiser selected from polyols, at least one wax, at least one emulsifier, at least one colouring agent, and water.

20. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the at least one leguminous starch has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25° C. with 20% dry matter of between 10 and 10000 mPa.Math.s, preferentially between 20 and 5000 mPa.Math.s, more preferentially between 50 and 1000 mPa.Math.s, most preferentially between 75 and 500 mPa.Math.s, and even more preferentially around 150 mPa.Math.s.

21. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the at least one leguminous starch has an amylose content in a range from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and preferably again from 35% to 40%.

22. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the at least one leguminous starch is selected from pea starches, chickpea starches, broad-bean starches, horse-bean starches, haricot-bean starches or lentil starches, and preferentially is selected from pea starches, and most preferentially is a Pisum sativum starch.

23. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the at least one leguminous starch is a hydrolysed and hydroxypropylated leguminous starch.

24. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the at least one leguminous starch is present in a dry-matter content of between 0.1% and 25% by weight, preferably from 1% and 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.

25. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEGs) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and/or sorbitol, and preferably the polyols are glycerol and sorbitol, preferably in a mixture with pentylene glycol.

26. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the polyols are present in a proportion ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.

27. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the wax is selected from hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork-fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as esters thereof.

28. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the emulsifying agent has an HLB of between 8 and 20, and is selected from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes such as self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolysed waxes, and mixtures thereof.

29. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the emulsion comprises from 25 to 60% by weight water, preferably from 30 to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the emulsion.

30. The emulsion according to claim 19, further comprising a hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular selected from polysaccharides, protein derivatives, synthesis or semi-synthesis gels of the polyester type, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and derivatives thereof.

31. The emulsion according to claim 19, further comprising an additional film-forming agent other than starch.

32. The emulsion according to claim 19, further comprising at least one mono-alcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

33. The emulsion according to claim 19, wherein the colouring agent is selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or soluble dyes.

34. A method for preparing the emulsion according to claim 19, comprising: mixing the water, the plasticiser and optionally the film-forming agent and optionally a preservative under stirring at a temperature higher than or equal to 90° C., adding the starch under stirring until a gel forms, optionally adding a gelling agent, optionally adding the colouring agent, heating the wax to a temperature higher than or equal to 90° C. to enable said wax to melt, adding said molten wax and the emulsifying agent to the mixture comprising the water and the plasticiser under stirring to form the emulsion, cooling the emulsion obtained to ambient temperature under stirring, optionally adjusting the pH, and optionally adding alcohol.

35. A method for making up keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the eyelashes or the eyebrows, consisting of applying to said keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibres such as the eyelashes or eyebrows, the emulsion according to claim 19.

36. A method for conferring on keratin fibres, in particular the eyelashes, an extending and curving effect, comprising apply to the keratin fibres the emulsion according to claim 19.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Mascara

[0264] A mascara having the composition presented in the following Table 1 was prepared:

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 INCI name Content (% by weight) PEA STARCH 17.34 (LYCOAT NG 720 FROM THE COMPANY ROQUETTE FRÈRES) GLYCERINE 10 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 CERA CARNAUBA (COPERNICIA 12.5 CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX) PEG 8-BEESWAX 8.75 (APIFIL CG from GATTEFOSSÉ) PIGMENTS 10 DEMINERALISED WATER 33.0 PRESERVATIVE 0.9

[0265] The mascara was prepared in accordance with the following protocol: [0266] weighing the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerine, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and preservative and heating it at 90° C. under stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0267] adding LYCOAT NG 720 under stirring for 5 min at 245 rpm until the gel forms, [0268] adding the pigments under stirring in a rotor stator at 350 rpm, [0269] melting the waxes (carnauba and emulsifier wax) at 90° C. under Rayneri stirring, [0270] introducing the molten waxes into the aqueous phase in a rotor stator at 350 rpm to form the emulsion, [0271] leaving the formula to cool to ambient temperature under stirring with a deflocculator.

[0272] The mascara obtained is fluid and homogeneous, it is applied easily. The make-up result is extending and curving. It can be removed easily by peeling off or with water.

Example 2

Mascara

[0273] A mascara having the composition presented in the following Table 2 was prepared:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 INCI name Content (% by weight) PREGELATINISED PEA STARCH 6.0 (LYCOAT RS 720 FROM THE COMPANY ROQUETTE FRÈRES) GLYCERINE 10 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 3.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 ETHYL ALCOHOL 3.0 POLOXAMER 407 (AND) PPG-12/SMDI 3.0 COPOLYMER (ExpertGel 412) SODIUM POLYITACONATE & AQUA 5.0 (WATER)& SODIUM ITACONATE & SODIUM PERSULFATE & SODIUM SALTS OF CITRACONIC/MESACONIC ACIDS (REVCARE NE 100S) CERA CARNAUBA (COPERNICIA 6.0 CERIFERA(CARNAUBA) WAX) PEG 8-BEESWAX 9.0 (APIFIL CG from GATTEFOSSÉ) PIGMENTS 10 FILLERS 1.1 DEMINERALISED WATER 39.70 PRESERVATIVE 0.7 25% SODA SOLUTION 0.5

[0274] The mascara was prepared in accordance with the following protocol: [0275] weighing the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerine, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, alcohol, ExpertGel 412, REVCARE NE 100S and preservative and heating it at 90° C. under stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0276] adding LYCOAT RS 720 under stirring for 5 min at 245 rpm until gel forms, [0277] adding the pigments and the fillers under stirring in a rotor stator at 350 rpm, [0278] melting the waxes at 90° C. under Rayneri stirring, [0279] introducing the molten waxes into the aqueous phase in a rotor stator at 350 rpm to form the emulsion, [0280] leaving the formula to cool to ambient temperature under stirring with a deflocculator, [0281] adjusting the pH with a soda solution, and [0282] adding alcohol.

[0283] The mascara obtained is fluid and homogeneous, it is easily applied. The make-up result is extending and curving. It can be removed easily by peeling off or with water.