LONG-LASTING COSMETIC COMPOSITION

Abstract

A cosmetic composition including, in a continuous aqueous phase, at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, at least one plasticiser selected from polyols and at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and the mixture thereof. Also, the use of such a composition for forming, on keratinous materials, a sweat and sebum resistant film.

Claims

1-19. (canceled)

20. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a continuous aqueous phase: at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content greater than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%, at least one plasticiser selected from polyols, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent selected from xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, and the mixture thereof, and water.

21. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the starch has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25° C. with 20% of dry matter between 10 and 10,000 mPa.Math.s, preferably between 20 and 5,000 mPa.Math.s, more preferably between 50 and 1,000 mPa.Math.s, quite preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.Math.s, and even more preferably at approximately 150 mPa.Math.s.

22. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the starch has an amylose content that ranges from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and more preferably from 35% to 40%.

23. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the leguminous starch is selected from pea starches, chickpea starches, bean starches, field bean starches, haricot bean starches, or lentil starches, and preferably is selected from pea starches, and quite preferably is a Pisum sativum starch.

24. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the starch is a hydrolysed and hydroxypropylated leguminous starch.

25. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the starch is present in a dry matter content between 0.1% and 30% by weight, preferably between 1% and 25% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

26. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having particularly from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and/or sorbitol, and preferably, the polyols are glycerol and sorbitol, preferable in a mixture with pentylene glycol.

27. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the polyols are present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

28. The composition according to claim 20, wherein the composition comprises 25 to 65% by weight of water, preferably 20 to 60% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

29. The composition according to claim 20, wherein that the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from xanthan gum and a mixture of xanthan gum and of sclerotium gum, in particular in a weight ratio between 1:2 to 2:1.

30. The composition according to claim 20, further comprising an emulsifying agent of HLB between 8 and 20.

31. The composition according to claim 30, wherein the emulsifying agent of HLB between 8 and 20 is selected from the fatty acid esters and oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene sorbitol ethers, the lysophospholipids, the emulsifying waxes such as the self-emulsifying waxes or the hydrolysed waxes, and mixtures thereof.

32. The composition according to claim 20, further comprising at least one monoalcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

33. The composition according to claim 20, further comprising a colouring agent, preferably selected from pigments and/or nacres.

34. A method for preparing a composition according to claim 20, comprising: mixing the plasticisers with water, and optionally with the emulsifying and/or film-forming agents, adding starch under stirring until a gel forms, optionally adding a gelling agent, optionally adding a colouring agent, optionally adjusting the pH.

35. The method according to claim 34, wherein mixing the plasticiser with water, and optionally with the emulsifying and/or film-forming agents, is operated at ambient temperature, or hot, for example at a temperature between 60 and 95° C.

36. A make-up or care method for keratinous materials, in particular for the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, consisting of applying on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows or the lips, the composition according to claim 20.

37. A method for obtaining a film from a film-forming composition, comprising: applying the composition according to claim 20 on the keratinous materials in particular the skin, eyelashes, eyebrows or lips, in such a way as to form a uniform liquid film, and leaving the composition to dry for 10 seconds to 5 minutes.

38. A method for forming, on keratinous materials, a sweat and sebum resistant film, comprising applying to keratinous materials the composition of claim 20.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0249] FIG. 1

[0250] FIG. 1 compares the sweat resistance of a film obtained from a composition according to the invention (Example 1), and from a comparative composition that does not comprise the gelling agent of the invention.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Eyeshadow

[0251] An eyeshadow is prepared having the composition presented in the following Table 1:

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Content INCI name (% by weight) PRE-GELATINISED PEA STARCH 23.5 (LYCOAT RS 720 FROM THE COMPANY ROQUETTE FRÈRES) GLYCERIN 10 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 3.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 ETHYL ALCOHOL 5 SCLEROTIUM GUM & XANTHAN 0.6 GUM (ACTIGUM VSX 20) POLYSORBATE 20 0.5 COLOURING AGENTS 10 DEMINERALISED WATER QSP PRESERVATIVE 0.5 L-ARGININE 0.06

[0252] The eyeshadow is prepared according to the following protocol: [0253] weigh the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, preservative and polysorbate 20 and stir in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0254] add the LYCOAT RS 720 while stirring, maintain the stirring for 5 min at 245 rpm once the gel has formed, [0255] add the Actigum VSX 20 while stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0256] add the colouring agents while stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0257] adjust the pH by adding arginine.

[0258] Upon application, the formula slides on the eyelid very well and its deposition is thicker than the eyeshadows on the market. The product does not crumble, and therefore does not deposit residues under the eye (on the cheekbone). The make-up result is intense, lasting over time. The film obtained is sweat and sebum resistant. It is peelable which enables easy make-up removal.

Example 2: Eyeshadow

[0259] An eyeshadow is prepared having the composition presented in Table 1 of Example 1, wherein the pre-gelatinised pea starch

[0260] LYCOAT RS 720 from the company Roquette Freres has been substituted by a non-pre-gelatinised pea starch LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.

[0261] The eyeshadow has been prepared according to the following protocol: [0262] weigh the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, preservative and polysorbate 20 and heat it to 85° C. while stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0263] add the LYCOAT NG 720 while stirring, maintain the stirring for 5 min at 245 rpm once the gel has formed, [0264] add the Actigum VSX 20 while stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0265] add the colouring agents while stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm, [0266] leave the formula to cool while Rayneri stirring until ambient temperature, [0267] adjust the pH by adding arginine.

Example 3: Resistance to Sweat and to Sebum

[0268] It was tested the resistance to sweat and to sebum of a film obtained from a composition according to Example 1, and from a comparative composition corresponding to the formula of Example 1, wherein the Actigum VSX 20 was removed.

[0269] For this test, product films of 250 μm were pulled with an automatic spreader over a 120 μm PET film. The film was left to dry for 24 h at ambient temperature then a drop of artificial sweat and a drop of phytosqualane (main component of sebum) was applied.

[0270] The results are presented in FIG. 1. Photo 1 corresponds to the film obtained by means of the eyeshadow of Example 1 according to the invention. No migration of the eyeshadow is observed in the drops of sweat or sebum, resulting in an excellent resistance to sweat and to sebum. Photo 2 corresponds to the comparative eyeshadow. Migration of the eyeshadow is observed in the drops of sweat, resulting in a lower resistance to sweat.