COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A HYDROXYALKYL STARCH AS MAIN EMULSIFYING SYSTEM
20220175631 · 2022-06-09
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A61K2800/30
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8135
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/8111
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K2800/591
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
A61K8/81
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A61K8/92
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
A cosmetic composition in particular for coating keratinous fibers in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion and including at least one hydroxyalkyl starch, characterized in that the hydroxyalkyl starch constitutes the main emulsifying system of the composition. Also, a process for makeup and/or non-therapeutic care in particular for keratinous fibers, including the application of a composition such as previously described on the keratinous fibers. Further, the use of a composition such as previously described in order to get a homogeneous and/or building makeup of the eyelashes on the keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes.
Claims
1.-10. (canceled)
11. A cosmetic composition for coating keratinous fibers in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion comprising an emulsifying system, wherein said emulsifying system consists of a hydroxyalkyl starch and constitutes the only emulsifying system of the composition.
12. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the hydroxyalkyl starch is selected from hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, and in particular hydroxypropyl starch phosphate and hydroxyethyl starch phosphate.
13. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the hydroxyalkyl starch is the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.
14. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the hydroxyalkyl starch is present at a concentration ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 4% to 8% by weight and better around 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the composition comprises an aqueous phase present at a concentration ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight.
16. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the wax is present at a concentration ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight.
17. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic or lipophilic film-forming polymer.
18. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the composition comprises less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of thickening compounds, and better, is free of thickening compounds.
19. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the composition comprises at least one additive selected from colorants, fillers, fibers, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, emollients, thickeners, coalescing agents, plasticizers, hydrating agents, vitamins and filters, in particular solar filters, and mixtures thereof.
20. A mascara cosmetic composition comprising hydroxypropyl starch phosphate as a single emulsifying system for the mascara cosmetic composition.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0162] The following compositions were made. The quantities indicated are expressed as percentage by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0163] Table 1 exemplifies a mascara formula based on hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, under the name Structure® XL from Akzo Noble.
[0164] This emulsion is used in the example A below at 4% and corresponds to the invention. Example B corresponds to the comparative formula using triethanolamine in order to assure the stability of the emulsion.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Example A Example B INCI Name (%) (%) Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate & water 4.00 — Triethanolamine — 1.67 Stearic acid & palmitic acid — 3.00 C10-18 Triglycerides 4.00 4.00 Glyceryl behenate 5.00 5.00 Beeswax & benzyl alcohol & benzyl 5.00 5.00 cinnamate & benzyl benzoate Glyceryl hydroxystearate 2.50 2.50 Jojoba esters & polyglycerin-3 & acacia 4.50 4.50 decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus seed wax Octyldodecyl myristate 2.00 2.00 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 1.00 1.00 Castor seed oil & hydrogenated castor oil 2.00 2.00 Water 48.65 48.83 Phenylpropanol & propanediol & caprylyl 1.00 1.00 glycol & tocopherol Pullulan & sorbitol & acacia senegal 5.00 5.00 gum & trehalose Glycerin 5.00 5.00 Tocopheryl acetate 0.30 0.30 Pigments Iron Oxides 10 10 TOTAL 100.00 100.00
[0165] The formula B mascara is a conventional formula known from the state-of-the-art, used as control. This has a satisfactory consistency (in particular by the addition of “stearic acid & palmitic acid” which plays a thickening and co-emulsifying role in example B, making it possible to get a composition B the closest possible to example A in terms of texture) and the good dispersion of the waxes and pigments which form it. In that way a black, homogeneous product results which is easy to apply to the eyelashes and forms a buildable and smooth deposit that has a desired volume effect.
[0166] A similar effect can be obtained with the invention without using triethanolamine stearates or derivatives in order to form the emulsion for the composition.
[0167] The mascara formula from example A has a satisfactory consistency and a good dispersion of waxes and pigments which provides a black shade, such as desired for this type of product.
[0168] These mascaras apply easily to the eyelashes and form a smooth and homogeneous, buildable deposit and provide the desired volumizing result.
[0169] A stable wax-in-water emulsion mascara results that is free of triethanolamine or derivatives and has a makeup result that is entirely satisfactory and comparable to a mascara with triethanolamine or derivatives.
[0170] It is noted at the end of these various tests that Structure® XL made it possible not only to assure the stability of the wax-in-water emulsion but also to play on the texture of the formula and to get more or less elastic, more or less liquid emulsions, which represents a big advantage for the formulator.
[0171] Conversely, a formula emulsified with triethanolamine stearates needs a non-negligible quantity of additional texturizers in order to get a formula with sufficient consistency, but a formula emulsified with a hydroxyl starch requires little or no texturizer.
[0172] The makeup result of a cosmetic composition for eyelashes containing Structure® XL is the following: the eyelashes are enhanced over the full length.