COMPLEXION BASE CONFERRING A LONG-LASTING MAKE-UP

Abstract

A complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion including at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content higher than or equal to 30%, at least one plasticiser selected from polyols, at least one oil and at least one emulsifying agent and water, with the understanding that the starch is present in a dry-matter content included between 1% by weight and 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base. Also, the use of such a complexion base to improve holding over time of the make-up, preferably to improve the resistance to sweat and to sebum.

Claims

1-20. (canceled)

21. A complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water or water-in-water emulsion comprising: at least one leguminous starch having an amylose content higher than or equal to 30%, preferably between 30% and 75%, at least one plasticiser selected from polyols, at least one oil, at least one emulsifying agent, and water with the understanding that the at least one leguminous starch is present in a dry-matter content comprised between 1% and 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base.

22. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the at least one leguminous starch has a Brookfield viscosity in aqueous dispersion at 25° C. with 20% of dry matter comprised between 10 and 10000 mPa.Math.s, preferably between 20 and 5000 mPa.Math.s, more preferably between 50 and 1000 mPa.Math.s, most preferably between 75 and 500 mPa.Math.s, and even more preferably about 150 mPa.Math.s.

23. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the at least one leguminous starch has an amylose content comprised in the range from 30% to 75%, preferably from 30% to 45%, and still preferably from 35% to 40%.

24. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the at least one leguminous starch is selected from pea starches, chick pea starches, broad bean starches, horse bean starches, haricot-bean starches, or lentil starches, and is preferably selected from pea starches, and is quite preferably a Pisum sativum starch.

25. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the at least one leguminous starch is a hydrolysed and hydroxypropylated leguminous starch.

26. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the polyols are selected from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEGs) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and/or sorbitol, and preferably the polyols are glycerol and sorbitol, preferably in a mixture with pentylene glycol.

27. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the polyols are present in a concentration ranging from 10 to 30% by weight, preferably from 13 to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base.

28. The complexion base according to claim 21, further comprising at least one silicone elastomer.

29. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the emulsifying agent has a HLB comprised between 8 and 20, and is selected from esters of fatty acids and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, lysophospholipids, emulsifying waxes such as self-emulsifying waxes or hydrolysed waxes, and mixtures thereof.

30. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the emulsifying agent has a HLB lower than 8, and is selected from esters of fatty acids and of a polyol, in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate or triisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate.

31. The complexion base according to claim 21, wherein the complexion base comprises from 25 to 65% by weight of water, preferably from 30 to % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the complexion base.

32. The complexion base according to claim 21, further comprising an additional film-forming agent other than starch.

33. The complexion base according to claim 21, further comprising at least a mono-alcohol having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably ethanol.

34. The complexion base according to claim 21, further comprising a colouring agent selected from pigments and/or nacres and/or soluble dyes.

35. A method for preparing a complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising: mixing the plasticiser with water, adding starch under stirring until a gel forms, mixing the oil with the emulsifying agent and optionally the silicone elastomer, the film-forming polymer, and the colouring agents, and introducing the mixture comprising water into the mixture comprising oil, under stirring to form the emulsion.

36. A method for preparing a complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 21, comprising: mixing water, the plasticiser, and optionally a preservative and colouring agents under stirring, adding starch under stirring until a gel forms, mixing the oil with the emulsifying agent and optionally the silicone elastomer, the film-forming polymer, and introducing the mixture comprising oil into the mixture comprising water, under stirring to form the emulsion.

37. The method according to claim 36, wherein the mixture of the plasticisers with water, and optionally with the emulsifying and/or film-forming agents, is performed at room temperature, or at warm temperature, for example at a temperature comprised between 60 and 95° C.

38. A method for making up or for the care of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin, consisting in applying on said keratinous materials, in particular the skin, the complexion base according to claim 21.

39. The make-up method according to claim 18, wherein a first layer of the complexion base is applied on the skin, and then a second layer of a second composition comprising a cosmetically-acceptable medium and at least one colouring agent is applied on a portion of said first layer.

40. A method of improving long-lasting of makeup over time, preferably to improve resistance to sweat and sebum, comprising applying to skin the complexion base according to claim 21.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: W/O Complexion Base

[0227] A complexion base in the form of a water-in-oil form having the composition disclosed in the following Table 1 has been prepared:

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 INCI name Content (weight %) PRE-GELATINISED PEA STARCH 10 (LYCOAT RS 720 FROM THE COMPANY ROQUETTE FRERES) GLYCERIN 10 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 3.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE 3.0 (CITHROL PG32I5-LQ) DIMETHICONE & DIMETHICONE/PEG- 10 10/15 CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-210) UNDECANE & TRIDECANE & 10 TOCOPHEROL & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (CETIOL ULTIMATE) DEMINERALISED WATER 50.5 PRESERVATIVE 0.5

[0228] The complexion base has been prepared according to the following protocol:

1—weight the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerine, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and the preservative and put it under Rayneri stirring,
2—add LYCOAT RS 720 under stirring 10 min at 250 rpm until a gel is formed,
3—mix CITHROL, KSG-210 and CETIOL ULTIMATE under stirring in a rotor-stator at 245 rpm for 5 min,
4—add the pigments under stirring in a rotor-stator at 350 rpm in the fatty phase [0229] introduce the aqueous phase (1+2) into this mixture (3+4) in a rotor-stator at 245 rpm for 5 min to form the emulsion.

[0230] The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity foover time.

Example 2: W/O Complexion Base

[0231] A complexion base has been prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the composition presented in Table 1 of Example 1, wherein the pre-gelatinised pea starch has been replaced by the same pea starch but not pre-gelatinised, LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.

[0232] To prepare this complexion base, the aqueous phase is mixed under stirring at 85° C. before the addition of LYCOAT NG 720. The rest of the process remains unchanged. Once the emulsion is formed, it is left to cool under stirring down to room temperature.

[0233] The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity over time.

Example 3: O/W Complexion Base

[0234] A complexion base in the form of an oil-in-water form having the composition disclosed in the following Table 3 has been prepared:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 3 INCI name Content (weight %) PRE-GELATINISED PEA STARCH 15 (LYCOAT RS 720 FROM THE COMPANY ROQUETTE FRERES) GLYCERINE 20 SORBITOL & WATER (70% MA) 3.5 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 2.5 POLYSORBATE 20 1.0 DIMETHICONE & DIMETHICONE/PEG- 10 10/15 CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-210) UNDECANE & TRIDECANE & 10 TOCOPHEROL & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED OIL (CETIOL ULTIMATE) DEMINERALISED WATER 37.5 PRESERVATIVE 0.5

[0235] The complexion base has been prepared according to the following protocol: [0236] weight the aqueous phase comprising water, glycerine, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and the preservative and put it under Rayneri stirring, [0237] add LYCOAT RS 720 under stirring 10 min at 250 rpm until homogenisation, [0238] add the pigments under stirring in a rotor-stator at 350 rpm, [0239] mix Polysorbate 20, KSG-210 and CETIOL ULTIMATE under stirring in a rotor-stator at 245 rpm for 5 min, [0240] introduce the fatty phase into this mixture in a rotor-stator at 245 rpm for 5 min to form the emulsion.

[0241] The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity over time.

Example 4: O/W Complexion Base

[0242] A complexion base has been prepared in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having the composition presented in Table 3 of Example 3, wherein the pre-gelatinised pea starch has been replaced by the same pea starch but not pre-gelatinised, LYCOAT NG 720 from the company Roquette Freres.

[0243] To prepare this complexion base, the aqueous phase is mixed under stirring at 85° C. before the addition of LYCOAT NG 720. The rest of the process remains unchanged. Once the emulsion is formed, it is left to cool under stirring down to room temperature.

[0244] The obtained complexion base is fluid and homogeneous, it can be applied easily without burling. The film formed on the skin protects the make-up from sweat and sebum throughout the day. Hence, the foundation applied on this complexion base has a durable holding of its colour and mattity over time.