AQUEOUS COMPOSITION FOR CARING FOR AND/OR MAKING UP KERATIN MATERIALS COMPRISING A FATTY ACID MONOESTER, A FATTY ACID SALT, A PULLULAN AND A POLYOL

Abstract

Aqueous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising a fatty acid monoester, a fatty acid salt, a pullulan and a polyol

The present application relates to a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I) below:

R.sub.1—O—R.sub.2  (I) wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of one another, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R.sub.1 representing an acyl radical, and R.sub.2 representing an alkyl radical, and (2) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, and (3) at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, and (4) at least one pullulan, and (5) at least one polyol, and (6) water; said composition containing less than 5.0% by weight of wax(es).

The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, in particular the skin, notably the contour of the eyes, eyelashes or eyebrows, and keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined above.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (I):
R.sub.1—O—R.sub.2  (I) wherein Ri and R.sub.2 are linear and saturated and have, independently of one another, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R.sub.1 representing an acyl radical, and R.sub.2 representing an alkyl radical, (2) at least one fatty acid having from 14 carbon atoms to less than 20 carbon atoms, (3) at least one base capable of at least partially neutralizing said fatty acid, (4) at least one pullulan, (5) at least one polyol, and (6) water; said composition containing less than 5.0% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of said composition.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, containing less than 3.0% by weight of wax(es), relative to the total weight of said composition.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one linear fatty acid monoester of formula (1) is chosen from arachidyl arachidate, behenyl behenate, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least 5.0% by weight of linear fatty acid monoester(s) of formula (1) relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from linear fatty acids, saturated fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fatty acid(s) is (are) chosen from stearic acid, palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least 3.0% by weight of fatty acid(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one base is at least one inorganic base.

9. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one base is at least one organic base.

10. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the at least one base.

11. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one pullulan is present in a content ranging from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one polyol is chosen from 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, pentylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

13. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyol(s) is/are present in a total content ranging from 5% to 10% relative to the total weight of said composition.

14. The composition as claimed in claim 1, comprising at least 30.0% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition as claimed in claim 1, also comprising at least one colorant.

16. The composition as claimed in claim 15, wherein the at least one colorant is chosen from metal oxides.

17. The composition as claimed in claim 1, also comprising at least one semicrystalline polymer.

18. The composition as claimed in claim 1, also comprising at least one fatty alcohol.

19. The composition as claimed in claim 1, in the form of an eyelash product, an eyebrow product or a product for the contour of the eyes.

20. An assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, comprising: a device for packaging said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers as defined in claim 1; an applicator of said composition.

21. A process for coating keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined in claim 1.

Description

COMPOSITION EXAMPLES

Example 1 (Invention), Example 2 (Outside the Invention)

[0267] The following mascara examples 1 and 2 are prepared.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Ex 1 Ex 2 according Outside to the the Phase Ingredients (INCI name) invention invention A Cetearyl alcohol 4.0 4.0 Lanette O OR/MB ® from BASF Behenyl behenate (C44) 15.0 15.0 (fatty acid monoester (1)) Kester Wax K-72 ® from Koster Keunen Poly(C.sub.10-C.sub.30 alkyl acrylate) 6.0 6.0 Intelimer IPA 13-6 Polymer ® Air Products and Chemicals Stearic acid 6.0 6.0 Stearic Acid 1850 ® from Southern Acids Iron oxides 8.0 8.0 (fatty acid (2)) Sunpuro Black Iron Oxide C33-7001 ® from Sun B Pullulan (4) 4.0 0.0 1,3-Propanediol (polyol (5)) 3.0 3.0 Activonol-3 ® from Activon Glycerol (polyol (5)) 2.0 2.0 Glycerin USP Kosher ® from Cargill Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.6 Chlorphenesin 0.3 0.3 Aminomethyl propanediol (base (3)) 1.0 1.0 AMPD Ultra PC ® from Angus (Dow Corning) Water (6) q.s. 100 q.s. 100

Protocol for Preparing the Examples 1 and 2

Preparation of Phase A

[0268] The starting materials were carefully weighed out beforehand using a balance (precision=0.01 g). The ingredients of phase A were melted in a jacketed heating pan in which circulates an oil of which the temperature is controlled by means of a thermostatically-controlled oil bath. The set point temperature was set at 90° C. After total melting, the pigment was introduced with stirring using a Rayneri® blender. Stirring was maintained until a homogeneous preparation was obtained.

Preparation of Phase B

[0269] The water was preheated in an electric kettle to 95° C. The cationic polymer and the anionic polymer were mixed with the hot water and then the preserving agents and the base were introduced into the water in a beaker at a temperature of 80° C. with stirring using a Rayneri® blender.

Emulsification of Phases A and B

[0270] Phase B was poured into phase A with stirring for 5 minutes at 90° C. using a Rayneri blender. Phase A+B was then cooled to ambient temperature with stirring.

Packaging of the Formulation

[0271] The mascara formula obtained was then transferred into a hermetically closed jar in order to prevent drying of the formula in contact with the air.

Comparative Tests

[0272] a) Appearance of the Mascaras

[0273] After 24 h at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure, the macroscopic appearance of the sample and also the state of dispersion of the fatty substances and of the pigments thereof were verified using an optical microscope. Likewise, the viscosity of the formula is measured.

[0274] The appearance of the composition was observed. The following notations A, B and C were given: [0275] A: Homogeneous, thick, black and smooth composition. [0276] B: Homogeneous, thick, black and mat composition. [0277] C: Heterogeneous composition with 2 liquid phases.

[0278] b) Mechanical Properties of the Deposit of the Formulation on the Eyelashes

[0279] In order to evaluate the staying power of the mascara deposit with respect to rubbing, the formula was packaged in a mascara heating vessel and the final product was applied to a false-eyelash test specimen and left to dry for 4 hours. The resistance of the mascara deposit on the false-eyelash test specimen was then challenged using a brush bearing no mascara. For that, the bare brush was used to rub the deposit (3×10 passages) and the amount of black deposit lost by flaking of the deposit was collected on a white support and then evaluated.

[0280] The appearance of the supports after rubbing of the mascara deposit was observed. The following notations A, B, C and D were given: [0281] A: no flaking is observed; [0282] B: slight flaking is observed; [0283] C: flaking is observed; [0284] D: considerable flaking is observed.

[0285] A support comprising strong flaking generates a crumbly mascara deposit and poor resistance to rubbing. Conversely, a support comprising no flaking generates a non-crumbly mascara deposit and good resistance to rubbing.

[0286] The results obtained are shown in the table below.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Ex 1 Ex 2 according to Outside the Tests carried out the invention invention Appearance after 24 hours A A Viscosity at 25° C. with a Rheomat 4.5 4.1 RM100 ® (Pa.s) Observation of flaking or A D absence of flaking

[0287] It was observed that example 1 according to the invention, after 24 hours, is homogeneous, thick, black and smooth. It exhibits no flaking and has good resistance to rubbing.