NATURAL VEGETABLE SOURCE BASED HAIR COLOUR

Abstract

The present invention describes a novel natural hair colour composition containing (a) a mixture of basic salt which aid in opening the hair cuticle and facilitating better penetration of dye which is natural plant-based extract; (b) a metal salt based mordanting agent which form a dye-metal complex. The invention further describes 2 step method of application which give better penetration and hence improved colour delivery and wash off resistance.

Claims

1. A natural colour composition for dyeing keratinous fibres, including natural human hair, wherein the natural colour composition comprises of: a) Atleast one or more of either basic salts, or organic bases, or organic swelling agents and a natural dye (mixture of plant extracts containing Logwood extracts, Henna, Indigo, Maddar extract); b) an inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent, and and wherein, the natural colour composition exhibits excellent colour coverage and wash off resistance.

2. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1 further comprises a hair cleaning agent selected from lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, polyoxyethylene derivatives, decyl glucoside, and lauryl glucoside.

3. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1 further comprises a thickener selected from xanthan gum, quarternized guar and cellulosic gums in the form of gel.

4. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1 further comprises a conditioning and a colour protective agent selected from polyquaternium 113, polyquaternium 80, acrylamide copolymer, microbial protein lysates, hydolysable proteins. The current invention also uses hair shine promoting ingredients like glucam p-20, fancorsil and medaquat HQ-7.

5. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the basic salt is selected from organic and inorganic oxides, carbonates, silicates, bicarbonates and / or from organic base such as carboxyl amine compounds and / or organic swelling agents.

6. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 5, wherein the basic salt is alkali or alkaline earth carbonate(s).

7. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mordanting agent is selected from Ferrous Sulfate, Ferrous Chloride, Ferric Chloride, Ferrous Oxide, Magnesium Carbonate, Manganese Sulfate, Manganese Gluconate, Zinc Sulphate, Zinc Chloride, Zinc Nitrate, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulphate, Copper Nitrate, Copper Chloride, Copper Oxide, Magnesium Sulphate, Magnesium Nitrate, Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Oxide, Magnesium carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium bicarbonate, Sodium Carbonate, Cobalt Nitrate, Tin Chloride, Barium Chloride, Lead Nitrate, potassium tellurate, ferrous gluconate and mixtures thereof.

8. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the dye is selected from non- oxidised logwood extract and oxidised logwood extract, tanins, Benzoquinones, naphthoquinones preferably Henna, Walnut, anthroquinones preferably Alizarin, carotenoids, indigo, indigocaramine, rubiethyric acid, purpuroxanthin, rubiadin, morindanigrin, munjistin, morindadiol, carotene, crocentin, bixin, canthaxanthin, lycopene, capsanthin, apocarotenal, xanthophyll, curcumin, morin, malclurin, luteolin, apigenin, fukugetin, datiscetin, kaempferol, rhamnocitrin, rhamnethin, zanthorhamnin, isorhamnetin, rharmazin, quercetin, rutin, gossypetin, butin, rotterin, chlorophyll A & B, catechin, fisetin, lapachol, juglone, alkannin, alkannan, deoxysantalin, atromentin, awobamin, riboflavin, anthocyanin, lawsone, embilica extract, carajuirin, dracorbohdin, berberine, betanin orcein, xanthone, naphthalene, alfalfa extract, black tea extract, green tea extract, white tea extract and red sandalwood.

9. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 9, wherein the dye is selected from plant extracts of Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinose, Caesalpina brasiliensis, Rubia cordifolia, Indigofera tinctora, Lawsonia sp, Terminalia chebula.

10. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the natural hair composition further comprises a penetration aiding agent comprising anyone or more of lactic acid, organic ethers, benzyl alcohol, aliphatic alcohols, aromatic/polyhydric alcohols and aldehydes, organic acids and oxones.

11. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the natural colour composition comprises: a) a basic salt in range of 0.5% to 8% by weight and a natural dye in range of 0.1% to 20% by weight. b) an inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent in range of 0.01% to 10% by weight.

12. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the natural colour composition exhibits wash-off resistance for 10 or more washes.

13. A method for applying the natural hair colour composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the method comprises: a) providing an aqueous and/or alcoholic solution of the basic salts along with cellulosic gums with hair cuticle opening effect; and dye on the hair in solid and/ or in solution form favouring complex formation on the surface or within the hair for effective colouration of the hair through generation of safe modified base colour and/ or safe base colour of the dye/plant extract. b) providing an aqueous and/or alcoholic solution of the said inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent with or without hair benefiting/conditioning agents on hair, and.

14. A natural colour composition containing two-parts, wherein a) a first part contains: a basic salt and dye, and second part containing hair conditioning and colour protective ingredients. b) a metal salt based mordanting agent, and.

15. The natural colour composition as claimed in claim 15, wherein the basic salt is selected from organic and inorganic oxides, carbonates, silicates, bicarbonates and carboxyl amine compounds.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0029] FIG. 1 illustrates post-mordanting wash-out studies.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0030] FIG. 1 show micrographs of hair strand showing initial colour and colour retention after 10 washes (micrographs b) and after 20 washes (micrographs c). as can be deciphered from the micrographs, the hair dyed with natural colour composition of invention show an excellent wash resistance, at least upto 20 washes.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF INVENTION

[0031] The invention will now be described in detail in connection with certain preferred and optional embodiments, so that various aspects thereof may be more fully understood and appreciated. As used herein, the following terms and phrases shall have the meaning set forth below.

[0032] Unless specified otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art, to which this invention belongs. Although any methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of the present invention, the preferred methods and materials are described. To describe the invention, certain terms are defined herein specifically as follows.

[0033] Unless stated to the contrary, any of the words “contains”, “containing”, “including,” “includes,” “comprising,” and “comprises” mean “including without limitation” and shall not be construed to limit any general statement that it follows to the specific or similar items or matters immediately following it. Embodiments of the invention are not mutually exclusive, but may be implemented in various combinations. The described embodiments of the invention and the disclosed examples are given for the purpose of illustration rather than limitation of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

[0034] Further, words like “a”, “an”, “at least” and “the” should be construed to not only cover singular quantities but also plural quantities of the elements immediately following them.

[0035] For the purpose of this specification the term “Dye” also encompasses a dye or a vegetable dye or a concentrated plant extract with other ingredients responsible for hair texture improvements.

[0036] The present invention describes a hair colour composition for dyeing keratin fibres comprising a inorganic basic salt having an ability to aid in opening of hair cuticle by providing optimum pH and dye / plant extract along with other ingredients for hair texture improvements and an inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent for generating dye-metal complex free of oxidizing agents, with uniform and superior colour delivery and colour variance under ambient temperature conditions.

[0037] In an embodiment, the present invention provides a hair colour composition containing (a) a basic salt in amount to 0.5% to 8% by weight and one or more dye present in combined amounts of 0.1% to 20% by weight along with other ingredients for hair texture improvements (b) an inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent present in amounts of 0.01% to 10% by weight of the active metal in the composition.

[0038] Accordingly, the inorganic metal salt aid in opening of cuticle which facilitates penetration of large dye molecules. The pH range at which this happens does not cause damage to keratin fibres as compared to the traditional bases such as ammonia and related compounds.

[0039] In accordance with the above embodiments, the cuticle opening basic salt is an organic base or inorganic base selected from oxides, carbonates, silicates, bicarbonates and carboxyl amine compounds.

[0040] Further, in accordance with the above embodiments, the dye is either a pure dye or an extract or concentrate of the plant material or an unprocessed plant material that selectively includes flavonoids, terpenoids, polyphenolics or its derivatives as the basic molecular skeleton including selective additional mono-azo, hydroxyl, carboxyl or amino groups and preferably comprises anthocyanins preferably non-oxidised logwood extract and oxidised logwood extract, tanins, Benzoquinones, naphthoquinones preferably Henna, Walnut, anthroquinones preferably Alizarin, carotenoids, indigo, indigocaramine, rubiethyric acid, purpuroxanthin, rubiadin, morindanigrin, munjistin, morindadiol, carotene, crocentin, bixin, canthaxanthin, lycopene, capsanthin, apocarotenal, xanthophyll, curcumin, morin, malclurin, luteolin, apigenin, fukugetin, datiscetin, kaempferol, rhamnocitrin, rhamnethin, zanthorhamnin, isorhamnetin, rharmazin, quercetin, rutin, gossypetin, butin, rotterin, chlorophyll A & B, catechin, fisetin, lapachol, juglone, alkannin, alkannan, deoxysantalin, atromentin, awobamin, riboflavin, anthocyanin, lawsone, embilica extract, carajuirin, dracorbohdin, berberine, betanin orcein, xanthone, naphthalene, alfalfa extract, black tea extract, green tea extract, white tea extract and red sandalwood. Preferably, the dye is selected from natural extracts of non-oxidised logwood extract, oxidised logwood extract, containing brazilin, haematin, haematoxylin and brazilin compounds and their mesomeric forms, stereoisomers, acid addition or cosmetically-based addition salts thereof acceptable, as well as hydrates. Further, the dye could be any one or more selected from plant extracts or concentrates of Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinose, Caesalpina brasiliensis, Rubia cordifolia, Indigofera tinctora, Lawsonia sp, Terminalia chebula and Curcuma sp.

[0041] Furthermore, the mordanting agent is selected from inorganic metal salts including, but not limited to Ferrous sulphate, Ferric oxide, Ferric nitrate Zinc sulphate, Zinc nitrate, Zinc Chloride, Zinc Oxide, Copper Sulphate, Copper Nitrate, Copper Chloride, Copper Oxide, Magnesium Sulphate, Magnesium Nitrate, Magnesium Chloride, Magnesium Oxide, Magnesium carbonate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium bicarbonate, Sodium Carbonate, Cobalt Nitrate, Tin Chloride, Barium Chloride, Lead Nitrate, Potassium tellurate, ferrous gluconate.

[0042] In an optional embodiment, the composition of the present invention further contains hair cleaning agents selected from sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, polyoxyethylene derivatives, decyl glucoside, and lauryl glucoside.

[0043] In another optional embodiment, the composition of the present invention may also contain a thickener selected from xanthan gum, quarternized guar and cellulosic gums that provide additional hair smoothing and conditioning effect as compared to traditional thickeners.

[0044] In yet another optional embodiment, the composition of the present invention may also include conditioning and colour protective agents like polyquaternium 113, polyquaternium 80, acrylamide copolymer, microbial protein lysates, hydolysable proteins. The current invention also uses shine promoting ingredients like glucam p-20, fancorsil and medaquat HQ-7. The conditioning agent further provides smooth texture and slip feel to hair.

[0045] In one more optional embodiment, the natural hair colour composition additionally comprising a cuticle opening inorganic/ organic base with subsequent mordant application. It also involves concentrated dye application over the initial two applications. It also states acceptable carriers involving aliphatic and aromatic alcohols, emulsifiers selected from anyone or more of anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, colour protective ingredients, shine and also comprises suitable hair benefiting agents and soothing materials.

[0046] In an embodiment, the present invention there is provides a hair colouring product comprising of;

[0047] (a) a basic salt selected from oxides, carbonates, silicates, bicarbonates and carboxyl amine compounds and a concentrated dye selected from, but not limited to non-oxidised logwood extract, oxidised logwood extract, alizarin, pupurin, catechin, napthaquinione, tannins, gallic acid, indigo, indigocaramine, rubiethyric acid, purpuroxanthin, rubiadin, morindanigrin, munjistin, morindadiol, carotene, crocentin, bixin, canthaxanthin, lycopene, capsanthin, apocarotenal, xanthophyll, curcumin, morin, malclurin, luteolin, apigenin, fukugetin, datiscetin, kaempferol, rhamnocitrin, rhamnethinand allied polyhrdroxy compounds.

[0048] (b) a mordant selected from, but not limited to ferrous sulphate, ferrous chloride, ferric chloride, ferrous oxide, magnesium carbonate, manganese sulphate, manganese gluconate, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc nitrate, zinc oxide, potassium tellurate

[0049] In another embodiment, the composition can be a two-parts, whereby the first part contains the basic essential ingredients, namely, (a) one or more inorganic/organic base and one or more dye, plant dye, concentrated plant dye and the second part contains hair conditioning and colour protective ingredients (b) one or more inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent.

[0050] According to yet another embodiment of the present invention, the said hair colour composition additionally comprising a cuticle opening inorganic/ organic base with subsequent mordant application. It also involves concentrated dye application over the initial two applications. It also states acceptable carriers involving aliphatic and aromatic alcohols, emulsifiers selected from anyone or more of anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants, colour protective ingredients, shine enhancing agents and also comprises suitable hair benefiting agents and soothing materials.

[0051] The composition of the present invention can be made available in various physical forms including powders, creams, lotions, sprays, gel. The present invention includes one or more dispersible thickeners or polymers, like carboxymethyl cellulose, guar gum, xanthan gum, agar agar, hydroxyl ethyl cellulose, methyl ethyl cellulose, acrylamide copolymer, quarternized polymers which forms a stable uniform gel. Alternatively, the natural colour can be formulated as a reconstitutable powder, which is a cost-effective product.

[0052] In one more embodiment, the invention provides a method of colouring the hair involving said hair colouring composition comprising the steps of:

[0053] a. providing an aqueous and, or alcoholic solution of said inorganic/organic base salts along with cellulosic gums with hair cuticle opening effect and applying said dye molecule on the hair in solid and/ or in solution form favouring complex formation on the surface or within the hair for effective colouration of the hair through generation of safe modified base colour and/ or safe base colour of the dye/plant.

[0054] b. providing an aqueous and/or alcoholic solution of the said inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent with or without hair benefiting/conditioning agents on hair,

[0055] In yet another embodiment of the present invention there is provided a method of colouring the hair involving hair colouring composition comprising the steps of:

[0056] a. mixing of the inorganic/organic base salt-based cuticle swelling/opening agents and concentrated dyes/ extract containing hair texture benefitting compounds in water and applying the mixture to hair/keratin fibre favouring effective colouration of keratinous fibres in variety of shades under ambient temperature conditions.

[0057] b. mixing of the inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent with or without hair benefiting/conditioning agents with or without hair benefiting/conditioning agents in water to achieve uniform consistency, and

[0058] Yet another preferred embodiment of the present invention provides a composition for dyeing keratin fibres wherein the metal ion solution pH is the natural intrinsic pH of the mordant solution under which it effectively complexes with the dye to yield different insoluble metal ion-dye complex delivering different colours.

[0059] Advantageously, the delivery of variants of base colour shade and/ or base colour by the composition of the present invention could be thus readily achieved in a three consequent under ambient temperature conditions within time ranging from 30 minutes to 120 minutes, based the requirement of the shade intensity. This invention eliminates the staining and poor colour delivery obtained by prior inventions.

EXAMPLES

Example I

[0060] The experiment protocol is based on conventional methodology for the generation of modified colour and/or base colour shades of the dyes involving one or more basic salts and at least one or more inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent and subsequent combination with dye/ plant dye/ concentrated plant dye and the results are summarized in the following;

Formulation

[0061] TABLE-US-00001 Formulation of Natural plant extracts and base salts Composition A I II (%w/w) (%w/w) Non oxidised logwood extract 1.00 0.75 Oxidised logwood extract 1.00 0.75 Lawsone extract 0.75 0.25 Rubia cordifolia (Maddar extract) 1.00 1.00 Benzyl alcohol 1.00 1.00 1, 2-Propanol 1.00 1.00 Manganese chloride tetrahydrate 0.01 0.01 Silica 1.00 1.00 Guar gum 0.50 0.50 Polyquat guar 113 0.25 0.25 Polyquaternium 113 1.00 1.00 Sodium bicarbonate 5.00 2.50 Water Q.S. Q.S.

[0062] Composition A is mixed properly with warm water (50-60° C.) to form gel and applied on the hair tress with more than 40-50% of greys. The ratio of application was 1 g of formulation for 1 g of hair and post application on hair it was left for 45 mins at ambient conditions.

[0063] The hair lock can be kept covered for a period of 30 minutes to 120 minutes as per the required shade intensity.

TABLE-US-00002 Composition B I Ferrous Sulfate 2.0 Guar gum 1.0 Water Q.S.

[0064] Composition B is then applied over the previously applied composition A at the bath ratio of 1 g formulation for 1 g of hair. The composition was allowed to stand for 10 minutes at ambient conditions.

[0065] From the above trials, it was observed that non-oxidised logwood extract which shows a red/pink shade in experimental conditions, also generates different colour shades simply upon selective combination with specific inorganic metal salt based mordanting agents in the absence of any pH controlling agent or oxidizing agent.

[0066] It is further observed that Iron salts reacted with non-oxidised logwood extract produce the black/ brown shade, Zinc salts react with to generate burgundy shade, copper salts react with non- oxidised logwood extract to yield the brown shade, salts of magnesium reacted with to yield yellow shades, Zinc salts reacted with non-oxidised logwood extract to generate violet shades, magnesium salts and sodium salts also reacted with to result in dark violet/ violet shades thus displaying a broad colour variance in the absence of any pH controlling agent and oxidizing agent.

Example II: The Effect of pH Controlling Agent on the Colour Of Inorganic/Organic Base-Inorganic Metal Mordant-Dye Complex

[0067] TABLE-US-00003 Effect of pH on colour delivery pH of dye Mordant Colour 3.15-3.30 FeSO.sub.4 Dark greyish black/soft black with brown tinge 4.00-4.10 FeSO.sub.4 Dark greyish black with slight blue tinge 5.00-5.10 FeSO.sub.4 Dark greyish black with blue tinge 7.00-7.15 FeSO.sub.4 Dark bluish black

[0068] It is noted from Table 2 the combination of dye mordant when the pH of dye ranges of 3-7 gives a range of colour. Blue colour on hair increases with increase in pH while the browner colour with lawsone domination prevails at acidic pH.

[0069] Therefore, the intrinsic pH of dyes mixture was also adjusted with external acidic agent like citric acid and aqua acid to desired similar level of 4.0 - 5.5 to explore the reasons for wide colour variance that may be contributed by specific inorganic metal salt based mordanting agent. The dye uptake and shade direction are summarized as follows:

TABLE-US-00004 Evaluation of mordants Sr. no Metal mordants Dye composition Colour delivery 1 Ferrous Sulfate Non- oxidised logwood extract, madder, Lawsone Dark greyish black 2 Ferrous gluconate Non- oxidised logwood extract, madder, Lawsone Greyish black 3 Ferric ammonium citrate Non- oxidised logwood extract, madder, Lawsone Brownish grey 4 Copper sulfate Non- oxidised logwood extract, madder, Lawsone Dark grey 5 Aluminium potassium sulfate Non- oxidised logwood extract, madder, Lawsone Grey with lavender tinge

[0070] The above table clearly illustrates that the inorganic ferrous metal salt based mordanting agents provides for superior colour.

TABLE-US-00005 Use of hair benefiting agents Sr. no Compounds % w/w Performance 1 Polyquaternium-113 (V) 1.0 Dark colouration, good feel on hair 2 Quarternized guar (VIII) 0.25 Good colour and gel stability

Colorimetric Results

[0071] Hair coloring was visually assessed and read with the Minolta spectrocolorimeter (CM3600d, D65 illuminant, 10 ° angle, SCI values) for L*, a*, b* colorimetric measurements.

[0072] In this system L* a* b*, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green / red colour axis and b* the blue / yellow colour axis. The lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the colour. The higher the value of a* the higher the shade is red and the higher the value of b* the hue is yellow.

[0073] L*, a* and b* represent the values measured after staining of natural hair / permed at 90% white and L*, a* and b* represent the measured values of natural / permed hair at 90% untreated.

[0074] The colour is very resistant to washing and light.

[0075] Hair colouring was visually assessed and read with the Minolta spectrocolorimeter (CM3600d, D65 illuminant, 10 ° angle, SCI values) for L*, a*, b* colorimetric measurements.

[0076] The colour is very resistant to washing and light.

TABLE-US-00006 L*a*b* observations for II,IV,V,VI Parameters II IV V VI L* 13.907 16.08 13.51 14.25 a* 0.92 0.76 0.65 0.80 b* -3.747 -3.193 -3.02 -4.56 Colour Dark Moderate Dark Faint