PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBRES, COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF A MAKEUP-REMOVING COMPOSITION, THE KERATIN FIBRES HAVING BEEN DYED BEFOREHAND

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibres, in particular the hair, comprising the application of at least one makeup-removing composition to said keratin fibres, which have been dyed beforehand using at least one dye composition comprising at least one particular silicone of formula (I) and at least one colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof, said makeup-removing composition comprising a) at least one alkaline agent.

Claims

1-17. (canceled)

18. A method for removing color from hair comprising applying to colored hair a makeup-removing composition comprising at least one alkaline agent, wherein the color removed from the hair was imparted by a dye composition comprising: (a) at least one silicone of formula (I): ##STR00021## wherein: R1 independently represents a hydroxyl group or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; R2 independently represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 2 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group or a monovalent radical of formula —C.sub.qH.sub.2qL, wherein: q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, inclusive, and L is an amino group which is optionally quaternized, chosen from: —N(R″).sub.2, —N+(R″).sub.3 A.sup.−, —NR″-Q-N(R″).sub.2, or —NR″-Q-N.sup.+(R″).sub.3 A.sup.−, wherein: R″ is independent chosen from a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula C.sub.rH.sub.2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, inclusive; and A.sup.− represents a cosmetically acceptable anion; R3 is chosen from a hydroxyl group; an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from a hydroxyl group (OH) or a thiol group (SH); a cycloalkyl group containing from 3 to 20 carbon atoms optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from a hydroxyl group (OH) or a thiol group (SH); an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from a hydroxyl group (OH) or a thiol group (SH); an aryl group containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from a hydroxyl group (OH) or a thiol group (SH); a radical —(X).sub.p—Si(R.sub.2).sub.3; or a monovalent radical —C.sub.qH.sub.2qL, as defined above; A represents a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 carbon atom; X represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated divalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 carbon atom; p is an integer ranging from 0 to 6, inclusive; p′ is an integer ranging from 0 to 3, inclusive; k is an integer ranging from 0 to 6, inclusive; q is an integer equal to 0 or 1; j is an integer ranging from 0 to 2, inclusive; t is an integer equal to 0 or 1; x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 10, inclusive, y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 10, inclusive, and z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 500, inclusive, with x+z ranging from 0 to 500, inclusive, and x+y+z b 4; wherein when X represents a hydrogen atom, t=0 and p=1; and when p=0, t=1 and q=1, and at least one of the radicals R1 or R3 denotes a hydroxyl radical or an alkoxy radical containing from 1 to 2 carbon atoms, a radical —(X).sub.p—Si(R.sub.2).sub.3, or a monovalent radical of formula—C.sub.qH.sub.2qL, as defined above; and (b) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, or mixtures of two or more thereof.

19. The method according to claim 18, wherein the color removed from the hair was imparted by a dye composition comprising a total amount of (a) silicones of formula (I) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the dye composition.

20. The method according to claim 18, wherein the color removed from the hair was imparted by a dye composition further comprising at least one alkoxysilane chosen from the compounds of formula (II), oligomers thereof, or mixtures thereof:
(R.sup.1.sub.x)—SH—OR.sup.2).sub.(4-x)   (II) wherein: R.sup.1 represents an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or acyclic C.sub.1 to C.sub.22 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally substituted with at least one group chosen from a hydroxyl group (OH); a thiol group; an amino group NH.sub.2; an alkylamino group NH-R wherein R denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms; or an aryl containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms; R.sup.2 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; and x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

21. The method according to claim 18, wherein the color removed from the hair was imparted by a dye composition comprising a total amount of (b) coloring agents ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the dye composition.

22. The method according to claim 21, wherein the color removed from the hair was imparted by a dye composition comprising at least one pigment.

23. The method according to claim 22, wherein the total amount of pigments in the dye composition ranges from 0.05% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the dye composition.

24. The method according to claim 22, wherein the total amount of pigments in the dye composition ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the dye composition.

25. The method according to claim 18, wherein the color removed from the hair was imparted by a dye composition comprising at least one direct dye.

26. The method according to claim 25, wherein the total amount of direct dyes in the dye composition ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, relative to the weight of the dye composition.

27. The method according to claim 25, wherein the total amount of direct dyes in the dye composition ranges from 0.005% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the dye composition.

28. The method according to claim 18, wherein the make-up removing composition comprises at least one alkaline agent chosen from alkanolamines, alkali metal silicates, metasilicates, mineral hydroxides, or mixtures of two or more thereof.

29. The method according to claim 18, wherein the total amount of alkaline agents in the make-up removing composition ranges from 0.01% to 15% by weight, relative to the weight of the makeup-removing composition.

30. The method according to claim 18, wherein the makeup-removing composition is in the form of a microemulsion.

31. The method according to claim 18, wherein the makeup-removing composition further comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil.

32. The method according to claim 31, wherein the total amount of hydrocarbon-based oils in the make-up removing composition ranges from 10% to 95% by weight, relative to the weight of the makeup-removing composition.

33. The method according to claim 18, wherein the makeup-removing composition further comprises at least one surfactant in an amount greater than or equal to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the makeup-removing composition.

34. The method according to claim 33, wherein the at least one surfactant is nonionic.

35. The method according to claim 33, wherein the at least one surfactant is chosen from oxyalkylenated alcohols having from 2 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units.

36. The method according to claim 33, wherein the total amount of surfactants in the make-up removing composition ranges from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the makeup-removing composition.

37. A makeup-removing composition for removing a dye chosen from pigments and/or direct dyes, the make-up removing composition comprising: a) at least one alkaline agent; b) at least one hydrocarbon-based oil; and c) at least one surfactant in a content of greater than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the makeup-removing composition, wherein the make-up removing composition is in the form of a microemulsion.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0315] In the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and corresponds to room temperature (20-25° C.), unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0316] The following compositions are prepared (in g/100 g, AM: Active Material):

Dye Composition

[0317] Composition 1 below (i.e. solution of 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES)), described in Table 1, is prepared according to the process below:

[0318] APTES (APTES Silsoft A-1100 sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials) is mixed with an aqueous solution brought to pH 1 by adding hydrochloric acid, and said mixture is placed on a VWR brand magnetic stirrer (rotation speed 500 rpm) for 24 hours at room temperature. The pH of the mixture is equal to 11.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Composition 1 3-Aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES) 30 Aqueous hydrochloric acid solution (33.5% of 0.02 pure hydrochloric acid) Water qs 100

[0319] Composition 2 below (i.e. alcoholic solution of silicone), described in Table 2, is prepared according to the process below:

[0320] the non-amino silicone compound is diluted in an ethanol solution in which the pigment (iron oxide sold by the company Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro Red Iron Oxide®) is dispersed.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Composition 2 Non-amino silicone (polydimethylsiloxane 19.68 (PDMS) bearing a hydroxyl terminal function (481939 sold by the company Sigma- Aldrich)) Pigment (iron oxide sold by the company Sun 5.72 Chemical under the name SunPuro Red Iron Oxide ®) Denatured ethyl alcohol qs 100

[0321] Composition 1 is mixed with composition 2 in a 50/50 weight ratio. According to the above protocol, the following dye composition 3, described in Table 3, is prepared:

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Composition 3 PDMS 9.84 Pigment 2.86 APTES 15 Aqueous hydrochloric acid solution 0.01 Water 35 Denatured ethyl alcohol qs 100

Makeup-Removing Compositions

[0322] In parallel, several makeup-removing compositions according to the invention are prepared according to the process below:

[0323] an alkaline agent is mixed with a nonionic surfactant, decyl alcohol oxyethylenated with 5 ethylene oxide units (Deceth-5), a hydrocarbon-based oil, dicaprylyl ether and water.

[0324] The microemulsion formulation is prepared by vortex stirring after all the ingredients have been mixed together.

[0325] Thus, four makeup-removing compositions according to the invention (A to D) are prepared and are described in Table 4 below:

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Compositions A B C D Deceth-5 60 60 60 60 Dicaprylyl ether 30 30 30 30 Water 9 9 9 9 Monoethanolamine 1 — — — Sodium silicate — 1 — — Sodium metasilicate — — 1 — Sodium hydroxide — — — 1

Protocol for Dyeing Hair Locks

[0326] Composition 3 is applied to locks of dry natural hair containing 90% white hairs, at a rate of 1 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair are left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

[0327] At the end of the leave-on time, the lock is dried with a hairdryer (high heat and medium power) for 3 minutes. The locks are then stored at 25° C. and 80% relative humidity for 24 hours before undergoing the makeup removal operation.

[0328] The locks of hair thus dyed then undergo a makeup removal operation with each of the compositions A to D, or a shampoo washing protocol.

Protocol for Makeup Removal from the Locks of Hair

[0329] Each of the compositions A to D is applied to a lock of dyed hair at a rate of 3 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair are massaged a first time (fingers passed along the lock ten times). Next, after a leave-on time of 5 minutes at room temperature, the locks of hair are massaged again (fingers passed along the lock ten times) and the locks of hair are then rinsed.

[0330] The locks are then washed with a standard shampoo (Gamier Ultra Doux).

[0331] The locks are then rinsed, and then blotted dry with absorbent paper.

[0332] The protocol is repeated so that two makeup removal cycles are performed.

Shampoo Washing Protocol

[0333] The locks are washed with a standard shampoo (Gamier Ultra Doux). The locks of hair are then rinsed, combed and dried with a hairdryer.

[0334] The next shampoo wash is performed on the locks obtained after the application of the hairdryer.

[0335] The protocol is repeated so that five shampoo washes were performed on the locks of hair.

Results

[0336] The persistence of the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

[0337] In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the colour, a* indicates the green/red colour axis and b* the blue/yellow colour axis.

[0338] The persistence of the colouring is evaluated by the colour difference AE between the dyed locks before shampooing, then after having undergone five shampoo washes according to the protocol described above. The lower the AE value, the more persistent the colour with respect to shampoo washing. The results are given in Table 5 below.

[0339] The makeup-removing efficiency was also evaluated in this same CIE L*a*b* system.

[0340] The makeup-removing efficiency is evaluated by the colour difference AE between the dyed locks before shampooing, then after having undergone the makeup removal protocol described above. The higher the value of AE, the more efficient the makeup removal. The results are given in Table 6 below.

[0341] The ΔE value is calculated according to the following equation:

ΔE=√{square root over ((L*−L.sub.o*).sup.2+(a*−a.sub.o*).sup.2+(b*−b.sub.o*).sup.2)}

[0342] In this equation, L*a*b* may represent the values measured after dyeing the hair and after performing the shampoo washes, and L0*a0*b0* may represent the values measured after dyeing the hair but before shampoo washing.

[0343] In this equation, L*a*b* may represent the values measured after dyeing the hair and after performing two makeup removal cycles, and L0*a0*b0* may represent the values measured after dyeing the hair but before the two makeup removal cycles.

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Number of shampoo Composition washes L* a* b* ΔE 3 0 37.8 32.3 25.8 — 5 39.3 33 26.1 1.7

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Makeup Compositions removal cycles L* a* b* ΔE A 0 37.8 32.3 25.8 — 2 51.8 17.7 19.5 21.2 B 0 37.8 32.3 25.8 — 2 45.0 23.1 20.6 12.8 C 0 37.8 32.3 25.8 — 2 50.4 16.2 19.1 21.5 D 0 37.8 32.3 25.8 — 2 48.1 21.1 20.8 16.0

[0344] The lock of hair dyed with dye composition 3 and washed with five successive shampoo washes has a low AE value, as indicated in Table 5.

[0345] Thus, the keratin fibres dyed using dye composition 3 show good persistence with respect to shampoo washing. Specifically, the lock of hair dyed with dye composition 3 and washed with five shampoo washes shows good persistence of the colour.

[0346] On the other hand, the locks of hair dyed with dye composition 3 and then subjected to makeup removal using compositions A to D have high AE values, in particular ΔE values that are significantly higher than the ΔE value of the lock of hair dyed with dye composition 3 and washed with five successive shampoo washes.

[0347] Thus, the value of using an alkaline agent for the removal of makeup from a lock of hair which has been dyed beforehand with dye composition 3 is observed since compositions A to D have a makeup-removing power higher than the test of the five shampoo washes.

[0348] Finally, it is observed that compositions A (monoethanolamine), C (sodium metasilicate) and D (sodium hydroxide) have a particularly improved makeup-removing power.

[0349] Thus, the process for treating keratin fibres according to the invention makes it possible to very significantly improve the removal of makeup from a lock of hair which has been dyed beforehand using a dye composition comprising at least one silicone of formula (I) and a colouring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes and mixtures thereof.