Process for treating hair

Abstract

A method for treating hair includes applying to hair a cosmetic formulation having an active part with a binding and antioxidant action. The active part is liposol maleate or a mixture of liposol maleate and maleic acid, with a weight ratio from 5:95 to 95:5.

Claims

1. A formulation consisting of: a binding agent; an aqueous solvent; and one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, wherein the binding agent is a mixture of liposol maleate and maleic acid, a weight ratio between the liposol maleate and the maleic acid being from 5:95 to 95:5.

2. The formulation according to claim 1, wherein the mixture consists of liposol maleate and maleic acid having a weight ratio from 10:90 to 80:20.

3. The formulation according to claim 1, wherein the mixture consists of liposol maleate and maleic acid having a weight ratio 35:65.

4. The formulation according to claim 1, wherein the mixture consists of liposol maleate and maleic acid having a weight ratio 60:40.

5. The formulation according to claim 1, wherein the one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients are selected from the group consisting of water, surfactants, vitamins, natural extracts, chelating agents, perfumes, antioxidants, hair coloring agents, proteins, amino acids, humectants, emollients, penetrants, thickeners, viscosity modifiers, hair fixatives, film formers, emulsifiers, opacifying agents, propellants, carriers, salts, pH adjusting agents, neutralizing agents, stabilizers, buffers, hair conditioning agents, anti-static agents, anti-frizz agents, anti-dandruff agents, and a combination thereof.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

Color Fastness to Washing

(1) Six hair samples from a human subject, level 7 standard weight and length, are colored with the coloring formulation Davines Mask with Vibrachrom 6.35.

(2) The coloring formulation was applied along with the Davines Activator 20 vol., hydrogen peroxide emulsion, according to Davines operating manual, in a 1:1.5 ratio.

(3) The coloring formulation was applied in a quantity sufficient to color all the fibers of the swatches, then wrapped in an aluminum foil and left on for 35 minutes.

(4) Afterwards, the swatches were rinsed with Davines SOLU shampoo of the Essential Hair Care line, directly on the previously wet swatches and rinsed for 30 seconds in order to remove the mixture.

(5) Then, swatches are treated as follows:

(6) 5 g of 2% maleic acid water solution,

(7) 5 g of 2% liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) water solution,

(8) 5 g of 2% of On Protection (7% Liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid) water solution

(9) 5 g of 2% of On Protection (12% Liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) water solution,

(10) 5 g of 2% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 water solution.

(11) A non-treated swatch is used as reference.

(12) The specific treatments are left on hair fora period of 10 minutes at room temperature.

(13) After 10 minutes, the swatches are rinsed 5 times with a Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate (Zetesol Les 2/SL®) solution to pH 7.5. The rinsing procedure consists on providing 1.5 g of the surfactant solution per swatch, putting it on the swatch, and massaging for 10 seconds, then rinsing.

(14) The rinsing treatment is carried out dipping the individual swatch for 10 times in a beaker containing 100 g water, in order to collect the rinsing water.

(15) Then, the different rinsing waters were evaluated (see FIG. 1).

(16) Conclusion:

(17) The rinsing water from the swatch treated with the On Protection composition containing 12% Liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid, is clearly more limpid in comparison with the other solutions. At the second rank is the rinsing water in the presence of On Protection containing 7% Liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid, then (third) the rinsing water using Liposol maleate 2%, fourth rinsing water using 2% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1. Rinsing water using maleic acid 2% is comparable (in relation to color intensity), to the non-treated swatch (fifth and sixth).

EXAMPLE 2

Color Fastness to UV Radiations After Washing With an Alkaline Shampoo

(18) Five hair samples from a human subject, level 5, standard weight and width, were treated with the bleaching powder Davines Mask Hair Bleaching Powder mixed with an activator, hydrogen peroxide emulsion Davines Activator 40% vol. in a 1:2 ratio.

(19) The samples, wrapped in an aluminum foil, were left on for a period of 50 minutes at room temperature. The hair samples were subsequently washed with DEDE Davines Shampoo of the line Essential Hair Care, dried and treated with the coloring formulation Davines Mask With Vibrachrom 6.22. The color was applied as a mixture with the Davines Activator 20 vol., the ratio activator: color being 1.1.5, as disclosed in the Davines Operating Manual. The mixture was left on for a period of 35 minutes at room temperature. Afterwards, the hair samples were carefully rinsed with DEDE Davines Shampoo of the line Essential Hair Care and dried using an airdryer. The above five samples are treated using:

(20) 1) 5 g of 2% liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) water solution,

(21) 2) 5 g of 2% maleic acid water solution,

(22) 3) 5 g of 2% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 water solution

(23) 4) 5 g of 2% of On Protection (7% Liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid) water solution.

(24) The samples were left for a period of 10 minutes.

(25) After the left on period, the swatches were carefully rinsed with water.

(26) Then the swatches were carefully rinsed with a Sodium Laureth-2 Sulfate (Zetesol Les 2/SL®) solution to pH 7.5. The rinsing procedure consists on providing 1.5 g of the surfactant solution per swatch, putting it directly on the swatch, massaging for 10 seconds, and rinsing 10 times in a beaker containing 100 g water.

(27) After the rinsing treatments the hair samples were carefully washed, dried with an airdryer and exposed to the Sun test (Q-Lab Q-sun Xenon Test Chamber-Model XE-1); test conditions: 70 TUV, 45° C., 10H.

(28) Results:

(29) By a visual analysis made by expert people, the following remarks can be made:

(30) as above described, the bleached and subsequently colored swatches show that the treatment with “On protection” better protects from discoloring due to UV radiations after several washings, maintaining the color more intense and vibrant in comparison with the swatches treated with Liposol maleate, Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 and maleic acid.

(31) Photos relating to the swatches before and after these treatments are available at Davines Research and Development Laboratories.

EXAMPLE 3

Color Fastness to UV Radiations

(32) Five level 5 swatches, weight and width standard, were discolored using the bleaching powder Davines Mask Hair bleaching Powder mixed with an activator, hydrogen peroxide emulsion, Davines Activator 40 vol. in a ratio 1:2, according to Davines Operation Manual. Swatches were left on for 50 minutes at room temperature wrapped in an aluminum foil.

(33) At the end of this period, the swatches were washed with DEDE Davines Shampoo of the Essential Hair Care line, dried and treated with the coloring formulation Davines Mask With Vibrachrom 6.22. The color was applied along with the activator Davines Activator 20 vol, in a ratio 1:1.5 according to Davines Operation Manual. The mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature for a period of 35 minutes. After that, the swatches were carefully washed with a 15% solution of Sodium laureth-2 sulfate (Zetesol Les2/SL®) at a pH of 7.5, massaged for 10 seconds and rinsed for 30 seconds with cold running water. This treatment was repeated two times, and the swatches were carefully dried.

(34) Then, the swatches were treated as follows:

(35) 5 g of 4% liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) water solution

(36) 5 g of 2% liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) water solution

(37) 5 g of 2% maleic acid water solution

(38) 5 g of 2% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 water solution

(39) 5 g of 2% of On Protection (7% Liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid) water solution.

(40) Every protective treatment was left on fore period of 10 minutes at room temperature. After that, they were rinsed with cold running water and dried with an airdryer.

(41) Finally, the swatches were exposed to the Sun test (Q-Lab Q-sun Xenon Test Chamber-Model XE-1); test conditions: 70 TUV, 45° C., 10H.

(42) Results:

(43) The evaluations were made after UV radiations treatment.

(44) The visual inspection made by skilled technicians gave these results:

(45) The swatch treated with On Protection (7% liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid) is more intensive in coloration, displaying, after the UV treatment, a greater capability in color retention, in relation to both intensity and reflection.

(46) The swatches treated with liposol maleate 2% and with liposol maleate 4% have similar color retention after UV treatments, but lower than On Protection, i.e. the combination of liposol maleate and maleic acid. The swatches treated with Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 are the less efficient as to color retention after UV radiations.

(47) Photos relating to the swatches before and after these treatments are available at Davines Research and Development Laboratories.

EXAMPLE 4

Protection of Hair From Bleaching Treatment

(48) Six level 7 swatches of hair, weight and width standard, had been discolored using the bleaching powder Davines Mask Hair bleaching Powder mixed with an activator, hydrogen peroxide emulsion, Davines Activator 40 vol. in a ratio 1:2, according to Davines Operation Manual. The following specific compositions were separately added to the mixture:

(49) a) 3.5 g of a 12% Liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) water solution;

(50) b) 3.5 g of a 12% On Protection (7% Liposol maleate and 13% maleic) water solution;

(51) c) 3.5 g of a 12% of On Protection (12% Liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) water solution;

(52) d) 3.5 g of a 12% maleic acid water solution;

(53) e) 3.5 g of a 12% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 water solution;

(54) f) a swatch without active components (as reference).

(55) The swatches were left on for 30 minutes at room temperature wrapped in an aluminum foil.

(56) After that, the swatches were rinsed using cold running water and carefully washed using Davines SOLU shampoo of the Essential Hair Care line.

(57) The above described treatment is repeated a second time, exactly according to the previous treatment, in order to better appreciate the differences in the hair appearance.

(58) After the left on period, the swatches were rinsed using cold running water for removing the mixture and further treated with Davines SOLU shampoo of the Essential Hair Care line.

(59) Then, 2.5 g of the conditioner MOMO of the Essential Hair Care line are applied; left on for one minute and subsequently rinsed using cold running water.

(60) Finally, the swatches were towel dried, dried with an airdryer and combed using a fine-tooth comb.

(61) Results:

(62) According to a first sensorial analysis made by skilled people, already during the drying process these remarks may be made: the swatch treated with a 12% On Protection solution containing 12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid results ameliorative in comparison with the swatches treated with Olaplex® 12% water solution, regarding silkiness, smoothness and compactness of the swatches. This result becomes more marked after drying: the final part of the swatch treated with a 12% On Protection water solution, containing 12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid, remains more compact, soft, silky, more shining and easier to comb.

(63) As the swatch treated with a 12% water solution of Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, the swatch treated with a Liposol maleate 12% solution is better in relation to compactness, silkiness and smoothness.

(64) As the ranking of the other mixtures, the followings are: swatch treated with a 12% water solution of Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, swatch treated with a 12% maleic acid water solution and finally the reference swatch (no treatment, mixture containing only powder+activator).

EXAMPLE 5

Hair Resistance to Bleaching Treatment

(65) Five swatches of hair, weight and length standard, level 5, are treated with the coloration Davines Mask With Vibrachrom 4.0 mixed with the activator Davines Activator 20 vol., emulsion containing hydrogen peroxide, in a ratio of 1:1.5 as disclosed in the Davines manual and left on at room temperature for 35 minutes in a ratio of 1:1.5 as disclosed in the Davines manual.

(66) During the left on period, the swatches were wrapped up in tinfoil and left at room temperature. After that, the swatches were rinsed with abundant running water and then washed with the Essential Hair Care SOLU shampoo of Davines line, washed and carefully dried with an airdryer.

(67) At the end of the coloring process, the bleaching treatment starts.

(68) Every swatch is decolored with 20 g of the bleaching powder Davines Mask Hair Bleaching Powder mixed with 40 g Davines Activator 40 vol.

(69) Before application on the swatches, the mixtures are singularly added with the following solutions:

(70) 9 g maleic acid—20% water solution

(71) 9 g Liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation)—20% water solution,

(72) 9 g Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1,

(73) 9 g On Protection (13% maleic acid and 7% Liposol maleate)

(74) During the bleaching process, all the swatches are wrapped up in tinfoil, and left on for 50 minutes at room temperature.

(75) After the left on period, the swatches are shampooed using Davines Hair Care DEDE shampoo and combed using a large-tooth comb.

(76) A tensile strength test was carried out on all single swatches. The tests were made using a dynamometer Texture Analysis Plus (Extended Height) using pneumatic clamps.

(77) The studied parameter is the Tensile Strength, let say the force of traction necessary to break hair. The results were compared with the data of a non-decolored swatch, virgin swatch. Five measurements for each hair 6 cm long, and at constant rate of 0.5 mm/sec., were made. Here below the results are reported:

(78) TABLE-US-00001 Tensile Sample Strength N No treatment 1.14 ± 0.11 Bleaching with maleic acid 0.69 ± 0.07 Bleaching with liposol maleate 0.98 ± 0.11 Bleaching with Olaplex ® Bond Multiplier No 1 0.97 ± 0.1  Bleaching with On Protection 1.24 ± 0.07

(79) Results:

(80) By comparison of the N (Newton) values, the protective linking agent(s) On Protection gives to hair a greater resistance to breakage (i.e. the force necessary to break hair is higher in the case of On Protection). Moreover the On Protection treatment is able to restore the original strength of hair, corresponding to the non-treated virgin swatch.

EXAMPLE 6

Protection of Hair Against Repeated Bleaching Treatments

(81) Five swatches of hair, weight and length standard, level 5, are treated with the coloration Davines Mask With Vibrachrom 4.0 mixed with the activator Davines Activator 20 vol., emulsion containing hydrogen peroxide, in a ratio of 1:1.5 as disclosed in the Davines manual and left on at room temperature for 35 minutes.

(82) After that, the swatches are rinsed with abundant running water, and then washed with Davines Hair Care SOLU shampoo, again rinsed, and dried.

(83) At the end of the coloring treatment, the decoloring treatment starts.

(84) The swatches are bleached with 20 g bleaching powder Davines Mask Bleaching Powder mixed with 40 g activator Davines Activator 40 vol, said mixture being subsequently added with:

(85) 9 g Maleic Acid in 20% water solution,

(86) 9 g Liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) in 20% water solution,

(87) 9 g Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No,

(88) 9 g On Protection (8% maleic acid and 12% Liposol maleate),

(89) a mixture without protective agents: reference swatch.

(90) During the decoloring process, all the swatches are wrapped up in tinfoil and left on at room temperature for 50 minutes.

(91) At the end of the left on period, all the swatches are washed with Davines Hair Care DEDE shampoo and combed using a large-tooth comb.

(92) This process is repeated from 5 to 7 times to destructure the swatches with repeated bleaching processes in order to highlight the degree of hair protection from different protective agents.

(93) The sensorial evaluation of the swatches shows that the swatch treated with a solution of On Protection is more compact, soft, healthy and shiny, comparing with the other swatches treated in a different way.

(94) Moreover, the quality of the hair structure of bleached hair was evaluated using a micro camera Aramol Professional Microscope APM-200. This analysis is consistent with the previously described sensorial evaluation. Really, the analysis with the micro camera of the swatch treated with On Protection (8% maleic acid and 12% liposol maleate) shows an image characterized by more closed cuticles and a more compact and smooth structure in comparison with the images of hair treated using different solutions. Also by using the micro camera images, the linking agent composition On Protection (8% maleic acid and 12% liposol maleate) gives a better result in relation to the hair structure protection.

(95) After the sensorial and micro camera evaluation, the single swatches are submitted to the following treatment.

(96) Every swatch is treated with 2.5 g of the conditioner Davines OI CONDITIONER to which the following treatment is added:

(97) 5% maleic acid,

(98) 5% liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corporation),

(99) 5% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1,

(100) 5% On Protection (8% maleic acid and 12% liposol maleate.

(101) The reference swatch is treated only with 2.5 g of the conditioner Davines OI CONDITIONER.

(102) The so prepared mixture is applied to the single swatches, homogeneously layered and left on for 5 minutes and subsequently rinsed with running water for 1 minute.

(103) Then, the swatches are towel dried, dried using an airdryer and combed with a large-tooth paddle brush during drying (12 brushes for each swatch).

(104) Then, the combability tests are made.

(105) Combability Test

(106) The combability test was carried out using a Texture Analysis Plus (Extended Height) using a comb with tooth on four lines.

(107) FIG. 2 is a graph showing the force exerted by the brush for combing 6 times the swatch.

(108) The graph shows that the force necessary to comb the swatch treated with On Protection is lower (except the second combing) than all the other swatches treated with different compositions.

(109) Conclusions:

(110) The swatch repeatedly treated with the protective agent On Protection (12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) according to the invention is more compact, has a healthy look and is smoother in comparison with the swatches differently treated as above described, or to the non-treated (reference) swatch.

(111) Moreover, after the conditioning treatment the swatch treated with On Protection containing 12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid is also more easily combed.

EXAMPLE 7

Hair Fastness and Easy Bleaching

(112) Four swatches of human hair, weight and length level 5, are used.

(113) Bleaching Treatment.

(114) The swatches are bleached using a mixture of 20 g Davines Mask Hair Bleaching Powder and 40 g Davines Activator 20 vol. to which the following compounds are added:

(115) a) 3.5 g 12% maleic acid in water,

(116) b) 3.5 g 12% Liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corp.) in water,

(117) c) 3.5 g 12% Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 in water,

(118) d) 3.5 g 12% On Protection (12% Liposol maleate+8% maleic acid) in water.

(119) During the bleaching process, all the swatches are wrapped up in aluminum foil, and afterward they are left on for 120 minutes at room temperature.

(120) After the left on period, every swatch is rinsed with abundant running water and washed with a Sodium Lauth-2 sulfate (Zetesol Les 2/SL®) 15% water solution and to a pH 7.5, and dried by combing with a large-tooth comb.

(121) The swatches are subsequently washed until a complete removal of the product.

(122) Tests carried out:

(123) 1. Tensile strength

(124) 2. Qualitative evaluation of swatches

(125) 1. Tensile Strength

(126) The Tensile Strength Test was made with a dynamometer Texture Analysis Plus (Extended Height) using pneumatic clamps.

(127) The tensile strength of hair treated with different compositions was compared with the tensile strength of the non-bleached virgin swatch (positive reference) and the tensile strength of the swatch treated only with Davines Mask Hair Bleaching Powder without a protective agent (negative reference). Five measurements for each single 6 cm long hair, and at constant rate of 0.5 mm/sec., were made. Here below the results are reported:

(128) TABLE-US-00002 Tensile Sample Strength N No treatment 0.83 ± 0.06 Virgin swatch 1.14 ± 1.11 Bleaching with maleic acid 0.83 ± 0.05 Bleaching with liposol maleate 1.06 ± 0.13 Bleaching with Olaplex ® Bond Multiplier No 1 0.81 ± 0.07 Bleaching with On Protection 0.99 ± 011 

(129) Conclusion:

(130) The protective compositions On Protection (containing 12% Liposol maleate+and 8% maleic acid) and Liposol Maleate alone, clearly show an improvement, in comparison to other treatments, in the resistance to hair breakage, since the force necessary to break hair is greater when using On Protection (containing 12% Liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) and Liposol Maleate alone.

(131) 2. Qualitative Evaluation

(132) A further qualitative evaluation of the swatches was made, both as bleaching level and as conditioning effect in comparison with the negative reference (only bleaching).

(133) Conclusion:

(134) The bleaching level of the swatches treated as above, had been evaluated by a person skilled in this field as not different in a significant way, but worse of the swatch bleached only with bleaching powder.

(135) Immediately after the treatments, the swatch treated with On Protection (12% Liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) is more conditioned than the swatches treated with different agents.

EXAMPLE 8

A Reducing Treatment: Curl Resistance to Repeated Washings

(136) Five level 5 swatches natural hair, weight and width standard, had been washed with Davines DEDE shampoo of the Essential Hair Care line.

(137) Then they had been towel dried, rolled on curlers 1 cm diameter and treated with a reducing agent as below described:

(138) 1) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1,

(139) 2) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of a 20% maleic acid solution,

(140) 3) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of a Liposol maleate 20% solution (Sabinsa Corporation),

(141) 4) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1,

(142) 5) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of On Protection (7% liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid).

(143) The above described reducing formulations (2 ml per hair swatch) were applied and left on for 30 minutes.

(144) After the left on period, the swatches were washed with hot running water for one minute and left 10 minutes towel dried on air without any treatment, in order to stabilize the treatment.

(145) Five neutralizing solutions are prepared:

(146) 1) 100 ml neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer hydrogen peroxide 2.1%,

(147) 2) 100 ml neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer added with 1.8 ml of maleic acid 20% water solution,

(148) 3) 100 ml neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer added with 1.8 ml of Liposol Maleate 20% water solution (Sabinsa Corporation),

(149) 4) 100 ml neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer added with 1.8 ml Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1,

(150) 5) 100 ml neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer added with 1.8 ml On Protection (7% liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid).

(151) Every swatch is left on for 10 minutes at room temperature.

(152) Directly on the swatches and without rinsing, the neutralizing treatment is repeated in the same way, leaving on for other 10 minutes, for total 20 minutes.

(153) After the left on period, the formulation in excess is rinsed with running water and the curlers are dried with a drier for 30 minutes.

(154) The swatches are removed from the curlers, and the deviousness of the curls is examined by photos.

(155) After that, the swatches are carefully washed with a 15% solution of Sodium laureth-2 sulfate (Zetesol Les2/SL®) at a pH of 7.5. One gram of surfactant solution per swatch is weighted, directly applied on the swatch, massaged for 10 seconds and rinsed 10 times in a beaker with water.

(156) This rinsing operation is repeated 40 times without drying during the different steps of rinsing.

(157) Then, the swatches are dried (only after the last rinsing), according to this procedure:

(158) I. The towel dried swatches are applied to a small head and dried on air at room temperature.

(159) II. Afterwards, skilled personnel evaluates the deviousness of the curls

(160) Conclusion:

(161) The permanent system added with On Protection is believed to better maintain the deviousness of the curls after repeated washings, in comparison with other treatments.

(162) In a lower ranking, the swatches treated with Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 added to Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer and the single Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer, maintain the deviousness of the curls in a similar way.

(163) Finally, the swatches treated with Liposol maleate and maleic acid added to Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer maintain the deviousness of the curls in a lower degree.

EXAMPLE 9

A Reducing Treatment: Hair Conditioning

(164) Four hair samples from a human subject, standard weight and width and level 5, are colored with Davines Mask with Vibrachrom 3.51.

(165) The coloring formulation was applied mixed with Davines Activator 20 vol., hydrogen peroxide emulsion, according to the Davines operating manual, in a 1:1.5 ratio.

(166) The color was carefully applied in a quantity sufficient to color all the fibers of the swatches, then left on for 35 minutes at room temperature.

(167) After that, the swatches were carefully rinsed with SOLU shampoo of the Essential Hair Care Davines line, in order to eliminate the excess color.

(168) 5 grams per swatch of the reducing formulation Davines Balance Curling System #1 are applied on the wet and towel dried swatches, and left on for 30 minutes.

(169) After the left on period, the swatches are washed with water and ready to be treated with:

(170) 1) 5 g of maleic 2% water solution,

(171) 2) 5 g Liposol Maleate (Sabinsa Corporation) 2% water solution,

(172) 3) 5 g Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, 2% water solution,

(173) 4) 5 g On protection (7% liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid) 10% water solution.

(174) All the swatches are left on at room temperature for 7.30 minutes.

(175) This treatment is repeated without rinsing, directly on the swatches, for 7.30 minutes (overall 15 minutes).

(176) After the left on time, the swatches are rinsed with running water to eliminate the excess product.

(177) Then, the swatches are carefully washed with a Sodium Laureth-2 sulfate (Zetesol Les 2/SL®) 15% and to a pH of 7.5. 1.5 grams of the surfactant solution per gram of swatch, are directly applied to the swatches, massaged for 10 seconds and rinsed 10 times in a beaker containing 100 g water.

(178) This operation is repeated 5 times for every swatch.

(179) At the end of the 5 washings, the swatches are carefully rinsed only with water and dried with an airdryer, for appreciating the chromatic differences and evaluate the hair appearance after this treatment.

(180) Results:

(181) Hair looks healthy, soft and hydrated. In relation to softness and silkiness, skilled technicians regard as preferred the swatch treated with only Liposol maleate 2%, then the swatch treated with On Protection 2% and the swatch treated with Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, 2%. The swatch treated with maleic acid is the last.

EXAMPLE 10

Improvement of the Sensory Properties of Hair Treated With a Reducing Treatment After Coloring

(182) Four swatches of level 7 natural hair, standard weight and width, are bleached two times using the Davines Mask Hair Bleaching Powder mixed with an activator, hydrogen peroxide emulsion, Davines Activator 40 vol. in a 1:2 ratio.

(183) The above described mixture is applied on single swatches in order to obtain a homogenous distribution of the product on the hair fibers.

(184) The swatches are covered with an aluminum foil and left on for 50 minutes at room temperature. At the end of the left on period, the swatches are rinsed and carefully washed with a shampoo of the Davines Essential Hair Care SOLU line and dried. The entire process is repeated two times until to obtain the lightening level 11 according to Davines Color Manual.

(185) The swatches as above treated are colored with Davines Mask with Vibrachrom 10.01 mixed with Davines Activator 20 vol. in a ratio 1:1.5 as disclosed in the Davines manual.

(186) The coloration was applied to every swatch in an amount to obtain an homogeneous distribution of the product on all the hair fibers of the single swatch.

(187) At the end of the coloration step, after rinsing with shampoo SOLU of the Essential Hair Care line of Davines and drying, the swatches are treated with 5 g of the Davines reducing formulation called Balance Curling System #1 and left on for 30 minutes at room temperature.

(188) Then, the swatches are rinsed with water and treated as follows:

(189) 1) 5 g maleic acid 2% water solution,

(190) 2) 5 g Liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corp.) 2% water solution,

(191) 3) 5 g Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, 2% water solution,

(192) 4) 5 g On Protection (7% Liposol maleate and 13% maleic acid) 2% water solution.

(193) These treatments are left on for 7.30 minutes.

(194) Without rinsing and directly on the swatches, the treatment is repeated in the same conditions for further 7.30 minutes for a total treatment time of 15 minutes.

(195) After the left on period, the excess product is washed with running water.

(196) Then, the swatches are carefully washed with a Sodium Laureth-2 sulfate (Zetesol Les 2/SL®) 15% and to a pH of 7.5. 1.5 grams of the surfactant solution per gram of swatch, are directly applied to the swatches, massaged for 10 seconds and rinsed 10 times in a beaker containing 100 g water.

(197) Finally, the swatches are carefully washed in order to appreciate the chromatic differences.

(198) Results:

(199) The swatches treated with On Protection, liposol maleate, maleic acid and Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, do not present significant chromatic differences, showing a similar color retention.

(200) The qualitative evaluation with reference to the sensory appearance of the swatches points out that the swatch treated with On Protection is slightly smoother and silkier than the swatches treated with other products; this is particularly evident in the terminal part, where the swatch treated with On Protection appears more intact and compact than all the other swatches. Finally, the increased compactness of the hair stem treated with On Protection gives rise to a greater aptitude to reflect light and, consequently, to a greater overall brightness.

(201) Photographs of the swatches treated according to this procedure are available at Davines Research and Development Laboratories.

EXAMPLE 11

Bleaching Treatment: Improvement of the Color Retention and Hair Sensoriability

(202) Five hair samples from a human subject having a standard weight and a width and level 7 are colored with a Davines Mask with Vibrachrom 3.51. The coloring formulation was applied mixed with Davines Activator 20 vol., hydrogen peroxide emulsion, according to Davines operating manual, in a 1:1.5 ratios. The color was carefully applied in a quantity sufficient to give a homogeneous color to all fibers of the swatches. The mixture was left on for 35 minutes at room temperature.

(203) After that, the swatches were carefully rinsed with shampoo Davines SOLU of the Essential Hair Care line, in order to eliminate the excess color.

(204) After the left on period, the swatches were treated with the following reducing compositions:

(205) 1) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1

(206) 2) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of a 20% maleic acid water solution,

(207) 3) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of a liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corp.) 20% water solution,

(208) 4) 100 ml Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1,

(209) 5) Davines Balance Curling System #1 added with 1.8 ml of On Protection (12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid).

(210) On the wet and towel dried swatches, 5 grams of the above described reducing formulations are applied per swatch, and then left on for 30 minutes.

(211) After the left on period, the swatches are washed with hot running water for 1 minute and left 10 minutes towel dried on air without any treatment, in order to stabilize the treatment.

(212) Five neutralizing solutions are prepared:

(213) 1) 100 ml of a neutralizing solution (Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer hydrogen peroxide 2.1%),

(214) 2) 100 ml of the neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer 1 added with 1.8 ml of a 20% maleic acid water solution,

(215) 3) 100 ml of a neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer 1 added with 1.8 ml of a 20% liposol maleate water solution,

(216) 4) 100 ml of a neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer 1 added with 1.8 ml of Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1,

(217) 5) 100 ml of a neutralizing solution Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer 1 added with 1.8 ml of On Protection (12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid in water solution).

(218) The swatches are left on for 10 minutes at room temperature.

(219) Without rinsing, directly on the swatches, the application of the neutralizing solutions is repeated according to the same procedure for other 10 minutes, totally 20 minutes for the application of the neutralizing solutions.

(220) After the left on period, the excess product is washed away and the swatches are treated with 5 grams of the following solutions and left on for 7.5 minutes:

(221) 1) 45 ml water,

(222) 2) 3 g maleic acid in 45 ml water,

(223) 3) 3 g of liposol maleate in 45 ml water,

(224) 4) 15 ml of Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 in 45 ml water,

(225) 5) 15 ml of On Protection (12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) in 45 ml water.

(226) After the left on period, all the swatches are washed with Davines SOLU shampoo of the Essential Hair Care and then treated with the Davines Momo Conditioner of the Essential Hair Care line for 5 minutes.

(227) Finally, the swatches are washed and dried.

(228) Results:

(229) The swatches were evaluated from skilled technicians as follows:

(230) The swatches treated with On Protection (12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid in water solution) and with liposol maleate are more intensive and vibrating, showing an increased aptitude to retain the color after the reducing treatment. On the contrary, the swatches treated with Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 and with maleic acid are chromatically weaker and similar to the swatch without protective agents.

(231) Photographs of the swatches treated according to this procedure are available at Davines Research and Development Laboratories.

EXAMPLE 12

Hair Resistance to Reducing Treatment

(232) Five level 5 natural hair swatches, weight and width standard, are washed with Essential Hair Care SOLU shampoo.

(233) Then, the swatches are towel dried with adsorbing paper for removing excess water and subsequently enrolled on 1 cm diameter curlers.

(234) 2 ml of Davines Balance Curling System #1 perm are applied on all the curlers using a spout dispenser and left on for 30 minutes.

(235) After that, every curler is rinsed with abundant water for 1 minute using cold running water.

(236) Then, the swatches are neutralized using different neutralizing solutions:

(237) 2.5 g Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer (hydrogen peroxide 2.1%),

(238) 2.5 g maleic acid, 2% water solution,

(239) 2.5 g liposol maleate (Sabinsa Corp.) 2% water solution,

(240) 2.5 g Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1, 10% water solution,

(241) 2.5 g On Protection (12% liposol maleate and 8% maleic acid) 10% water solution.

(242) The swatches are left on for 7.30 minutes at room temperature.

(243) Without rinsing, directly on the swatches, the application of the neutralizing solutions is repeated according to the same procedure for other 7.30 minutes, totally 15 minutes.

(244) After the left on period, the excess product is rinsed with cold running water and the curlers are dried in an oven ISCO at 53° C.±1 for 4 hours.

(245) The swatches are removed from the curlers and the curl sinuosity is evaluated using a camera.

(246) Then, the swatches are carefully washed with a Sodium Laureth-2 sulfate (Zetesol Les 2/SL®) 15% and to a pH of 7.5. 1.0 grams of the surfactant solution per gram of swatch, is directly applied to the swatch, massaged for 30 seconds and rinsed 10 times in a beaker with water.

(247) This washing operation is repeated 40 times without drying after each rinsing step.

(248) The swatches are naturally dried on air.

(249) Then, the tensile strength was evaluated.

(250) The Tensile Strength Test was made with using a dynamometer Texture Analysis Plus (Extended Height) using pneumatic clamps.

(251) The tensile strength of hair treated with different compositions was compared with the tensile strength of the swatch neutralized only with Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer.

(252) TABLE-US-00003 TENSILE SAMPLE STRENGTH (N) Davines Bouclé Biowaving System 0.93 ± 0.1  Extra Delicate Neutralizer On Protection  1.0 ± 0.08 Liposol Maleate 1.04 ± 0.16 Olaplex ® Bond Multiplier No1 0.73 ± 0.12 Maleic acid 1.01 ± 0.03

(253) Conclusions:

(254) The swathes treated with On Protection, Liposol maleate and maleic acid are more protected in comparison with those treated with Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1 and Davines Bouclè Biowaving System Extra Delicate Neutralizer.

FINAL CONCLUSIONS

(255) According to the above examples, these conclusions may be drawn:

(256) It is clearly shown that the linking compositions of the present invention can successfully protect hair from potential oxidative and photo-oxidative damages. This assertion is based on Examples 2 ad 3, where different mixtures of liposol maleate and maleic acid are used for the color protection of previously colored natural swatches, in an event also after repeated washing steps and also a subsequent exposition to UV radiations.

(257) The results using the mixture liposol maleate+maleic acid are better than the single components, maleic acid and liposol maleate, and also than the reference commercial product Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1. Then, a synergic effect between maleic acid and liposol maleate in the hair protection is evident.

(258) It is confirmed that the protective action of the hair color after repeated washing steps is better than the single components, maleic acid and liposol maleate, and also than the reference commercial product Olaplex® Bond Multiplier No 1. The protective effect of the cosmetic coloring is disclosed also in Example 11, when the treatment with linking formulations according to the present invention is carried out after the application of a reducing treatment.

(259) The hair structure protection to bleaching treatments conferred by the linking compositions according to the present invention is confirmed in different examples regarding both the tensile strength tests (example 5 and 7) and the sensorial evaluations of the swatches also treated with repeated bleaching steps as in example 6.

(260) The linking formulations according to the present invention are also able, during reducing treatments, to protect the hair structure giving softness and elasticity to hair as well as conferring a greater tensile strength.

(261) FIG. 1 shows different rinsing waters in a test of color fastness to washing in one embodiment of the invention.

(262) FIG. 2 shows graphs of the force exerted by a brush for combing six times a swatch in one embodiment of the invention.