Process for treating hair

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for treating hair wherein the hair is semi permanently shaped and subsequently reshaped with the application of an aqueous composition comprising catechin and/or resorcinol and their derivatives.

Claims

1. A process for treating hair, the process comprising: a—optionally cleansing hair; b—optionally drying the hair; c—applying an aqueous composition onto hair, the aqueous composition comprising an alkalizing agent and one or more compounds of the general structure ##STR00007## wherein R.sup.1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, or a methoxy group, R.sup.x1 represents an aromatic hydrocarbon group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, and R.sup.y11 represents a hydroxy group, a methoxy group, or an aromatic hydrocarbon group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups or an arylcarbonyloxy group or aralkylcarbonyloxy group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, and/or ##STR00008## one or more compounds of the general structure wherein R.sup.1 is hydrogen or methyl, A.sup.1 and A.sup.2 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen, C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl with or without a substituent, C1 to C6 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, halogen or —COR2, B is selected from hydrogen, C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl with or without a substituent, —OR3 or —COOR3, D is selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl, methyl or C1 to C12 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, E is selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl or C1 to C6 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, or C1 to C6 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, and two or three of A.sup.1, A.sup.2, B and E are hydrogen and the others are not containing sulfonic group, and wherein D is hydrogen or methyl, A.sup.1 and B or A.sup.2 and B may be bonded mutually to form a benzene ring which may have hydroxyl, wherein the alkalizing agent is selected from ammonia and alkyl- or alkanolamines according to the general structure ##STR00009## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are the same or different and are selected from H, from C1 to C4, C3 to C4 unsaturated alkyl, C3 to C4 branched alkyl, C1 to C4 hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H, wherein the aqueous composition comprises the one or more compounds of at least one selected from Formula I and Formula II at a total concentration in the range of 2 to 50% by weight, based on a total weight of the aqueous composition, with the condition that the aqueous composition does not comprise any compound of the general structure and/or a hydrate thereof and/or a salt thereof
R—CO—R′ wherein R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C1-C10 alkyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkynyl, optionally substituted C3-C10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C6-C10 aryl or a 5-10-membered, optionally substituted heteroaryl group, wherein the optional substituents of the alkyl group are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino and C1-C4 alkoxy, and the optional substituents of the other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino, C1-C4 alkyl and C1-C4 alkoxy and R′ is COOH, and wherein the process is free from reducing and oxidizing steps; d—increasing the temperature of the hair to a temperature in the range of 100 to 230° C. for 5 to 120 minutes; e—optionally rinsing off the hair; and f—optionally blow drying the hair.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the hair is put on curlers before or after the step c.

3. The process according to claim 2, wherein the curlers are taken off from hair after step d and prior to rinsing off the hair.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the hair is cleansed and dried prior to application of the aqueous composition in step c and rinsed off and blow dried after the step d.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the aqueous composition is in the range of 1.5 to 10.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition comprises the one or more compounds of at least one selected from Formula I and Formula II at a total concentration in the range of 2.5 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition.

7. The process according to claim 1, wherein at least one of one or more compounds of formula I is at least one selected from the group consisting of catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, meciadanol, afzelechin, epiafzelechin, catechin gallate, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, phylloflavan, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, and robinetinidol, and one or more compounds according to the Formula (II) is at least one selected from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-n-butyl resorcinol, 4-chlorresorcinol, resveratrol, phloretin, and 2,2′,4,4′-tetrahydroxybenzophenone.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more compounds of the general structure according to Formula I consists of catechin.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition comprises one or more thickening polymers selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic and amphoteric polymers, selected from polymers with a viscosity of at least 500 mPa s measured at a polymer concentration of 1% by weight in water and at 20° C. with a Brookfield viscometer, at 10 rpm for 1 minute, with an appropriate spindle, selected from cellulose polymers, alginates, polysaccarides and acrylic acid polymers, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, alginic acids, sodium alginates, ammonium alginates, calcium alginates, gum arabic, guar gum or xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum or acrylic acid polymers known with the CTFA adopted name Carbomer and its derivatives, comprised in the compositions at a total concentration in the range of 0.1% to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition comprises one or more organic solvent, at a total concentration in the range of 1% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition, selected from 2-phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethanol, 2-benzyloxyethanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, n-butanol, isobutanol, t-butanol, and 1-pentanol.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition comprises: one or more hair conditioning compounds; one or more fatty alcohols; one or more surfactants selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants; one or more ubiquinones; one or more ceramides; one or more organic solvents; one or more lipophilic ingredients selected from one or more vegetable oils, one or more mineral oils, one or more silicones, and fatty acid esters; one or more preservatives; one or more amino acids; and one or more polyols.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the alkalizing agents are selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, and aminomethyl-propanol and are present at a total concentration in the range of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition.

13. The process according to claim 5, wherein the pH of the aqueous composition is in the range of 2 to 9.

14. A process for treating hair, the process comprising: a—optionally cleansing hair; b—optionally drying the hair; c—applying an aqueous composition onto hair comprising one or more compounds of the general structure ##STR00010## wherein R.sup.1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, or a methoxy group, R.sup.x1 represents an aromatic hydrocarbon group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, and R.sup.y11 represents a hydroxy group, a methoxy group, or an aromatic hydrocarbon group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups or an arylcarbonyloxy group or aralkylcarbonyloxy group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, wherein the aqueous composition comprises the one or more compounds of Formula I at a total concentration in the range of 20 to 50% by weight, based on a total weight of the aqueous composition, with the condition that the aqueous composition does not comprise any compound of the general structure and/or a hydrate thereof and/or a salt thereof
R—CO—R′ wherein R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C1-C10 alkyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkynyl, optionally substituted C3-C10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C6-C10 aryl or a 5-10-membered, optionally substituted heteroaryl group, wherein the optional substituents of the alkyl group are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino and C1-C4 alkoxy, and the optional substituents of the other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino, C1-C4 alkyl and C1-C4 alkoxy and R′ is COOH; d—increasing the temperature of the hair to a temperature in the range of 80 to 230° C. for 5 to 120 minutes; e—optionally rinsing off the hair; and f—optionally blow drying the hair.

15. A process for treating hair, the process comprising: a—optionally cleansing hair; b—optionally drying the hair; c—applying an aqueous composition onto hair comprising one or more compounds of the general structure ##STR00011## wherein R.sup.1 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, X represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group, or a methoxy group, R.sup.x1 represents an aromatic hydrocarbon group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, and R.sup.y11 represents a hydroxy group, a methoxy group, or an aromatic hydrocarbon group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups or an arylcarbonyloxy group or aralkylcarbonyloxy group, that is optionally substituted with up to three hydroxy groups or methoxy groups, and/or one or more compounds of the general structure ##STR00012## wherein R.sup.1 is hydrogen or methyl, A.sup.1 and A.sup.2 are the same or different and are selected from hydrogen, C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl with or without a substituent, C1 to C6 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, halogen or —COR2, B is selected from hydrogen, C1 to C12 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, C7 to C12 aralkyl or arylalkenyl with or without a substituent, —OR3 or —COOR3, D is selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl, methyl or C1 to C12 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, E is selected from hydrogen, hydroxyl or C1 to C6 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl, or C1 to C6 linear or branched alkoxy or alkenyloxy, and two or three of A.sup.1, A.sup.2, B and E are hydrogen and the others are not containing sulfonic group, and wherein D is hydrogen or methyl, A.sup.1 and B or A.sup.2 and B may be bonded mutually to form a benzene ring which may have hydroxyl, wherein the aqueous composition comprises the one or more compounds of at least one selected from Formula I and Formula II at a total concentration in the range of 2 to 50% by weight, based on a total weight of the aqueous composition, with the condition that the aqueous composition does not comprise any compound of the general structure and/or a hydrate thereof and/or a salt thereof
R—CO—R′ wherein R is selected from hydrogen, COOH, CN, optionally substituted C1-C10 alkyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkenyl, optionally substituted C2-C10 alkynyl, optionally substituted C3-C10 cycloalkyl, optionally substituted C6-C10 aryl or a 5-10-membered, optionally substituted heteroaryl group, wherein the optional substituents of the alkyl group are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino and C1-C4 alkoxy, and the optional substituents of the other groups are selected from halogen, hydroxyl, amino, C1-C4 alkyl and C1-C4 alkoxy and R′ is COOH, and wherein a total reducing agent concentration in the aqueous composition is less than 0.1% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the aqueous composition; d—increasing the temperature of the hair to a temperature in the range of 110 to 230° C. for 5 to 120 minutes with a hair style tool selected from the group consisting of a flat iron, a curling iron, one or more curlers, one or more digital curling rods, and one or more rods of a digital perm machine; e—optionally rinsing off the hair; and f—optionally blow drying the hair.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

(1) The following compositions were prepared and used in the tests in order to show the effect of the invention.

(2) TABLE-US-00001 Concentration % by weight 1 2 3 4 5 Catechin 20 20 20 20 30 Ammonia (25%) — 2 2 2 2 Benzyl alcohol 5 5 — — — Ethanol — — 5 — — Water q.s. to 100 pH 4.0 8.4 8.4 8.4 8.4 Processing temperature 140 140 140 140 140 Curl ratio % 38 45 45 45 50

(3) The above compositions were prepared and used for treating hair. Therefore, hair streaks with a length of 20 cm were used. The compositions were applied onto shampooed and dried hair in a hair to composition weight ratio of 1:1. Afterwards, the hair was put on rods of the digital perm machine and the rods were heated to 140° C. (measured on the hair with an infrared digital thermometer from a distance of 15 cm) and let on the hair for 30 min. The hair was covered with an aluminum sheet during processing in order to prevent hair drying. Afterwards the hair was taken off from the digital perming machine, rinsed off with water, blow dried, the length was measured and the curl ratio was calculated with the following equation.
Curl ratio (CR)=((L0−Lt)/L0)×100
Wherein L0 is the length of the hair prior to the treatment, Lt is the length of the hair after the treatment.

(4) From the above results it is clear that the hair is shaped with the process of the present invention.

(5) Additionally, the curl durability of the hair streak obtained with the composition 3 of the above Table was tested by repeatedly washing the hair streak with a commercially available shampoo composition under the brand Goldwell. The following results were obtained.

(6) TABLE-US-00002 Number of wash cycles Curl Ratio Start 45  5 30 10 16

(7) Additionally, the tress treated with the composition 1 of the above Table, was straightened using a flat iron having a surface temperature of 230° C. The hair was treated 5 times with 3 sec heat application period and it was observed that the curly hair was straightened.

(8) The same straightened hair was then again curled with curling iron operated at 180° C. for 30 sec and repeated 3 times the same and it was observed that the hair was curled again and had the similar curl retention value and similar wash fastness.

(9) Similar results are observed with the following examples.

EXAMPLE 2

(10) TABLE-US-00003 % by weight Catechin 20 Polyquaternium-37  1 Water to 100

(11) The above composition had a pH 4.0. The hair treated in the same way as describe above under Example 1 had the curl ratio of 60%.

EXAMPLE 3

(12) TABLE-US-00004 % by weight Catechin 20 Hydroxyethylcellulose  1 Water to 100

(13) The above composition had a pH 4.0. The hair treated in the same way as describe above under Example 1 had the curl ratio of 50%.

EXAMPLE 4

(14) TABLE-US-00005 % by weight Catechin 20 Xanthan gum  1 Water to 100

(15) The above composition had a pH 4.0. The hair treated in the same way as describe above under Example 1 had the curl ratio of 60%.