BIOBASED PEARLESCENT WAXES

Abstract

The invention relates to biobased waxy esters which in particular in the form of wax dispersions bring about cloudiness and/or pearlescence in cosmetic cleansers. The invention further provides the use of the waxes in cosmetic compositions, the production thereof and the cosmetic compositions themselves.

Claims

1. Waxy esters of ethylene glycol suitable as an opacifying and/or pearlescent agent in cosmetic cleansers, wherein the ethylene glycol in the ester according to .sup.14C analysis has an at least 99% biogenic proportion of carbon, defined according to DIN EN 15440 at 13.6 dpm/gC independently of the matrix, with a standard deviation of +/−0 to +/−4.

2. The waxy esters of ethylene glycol according to claim 1, wherein the ethylene glycol in the ester according to .sup.14C analysis has a 100% biogenic proportion of carbon, defined according to DIN EN 15440 at 13.6 dpm/gC independently of the matrix, with a standard deviation of +/−0 to +/−4.

3. The waxy esters of ethylene glycol according to claim 1, comprising a mixture of a monoester and a diester of ethylene glycol.

4. The waxy esters of ethylene glycol according to claim 3, comprising the monoester or the diesters of ethylene glycol with fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

5. The waxy esters of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 comprising mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol with fatty acid mixtures consisting of 40% to 100% by weight of stearic acid and 0% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid and 0% to 20% by weight of lauric and/or myristic acid.

6. The waxy esters of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoester and 90% to 97% by weight of diester of ethylene glycol of a mixture of fatty acids consisting of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid.

7. A wax dispersion comprising a waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 in an amount of 15% to 30% by weight, based on the wax dispersion.

8. The wax dispersion according to claim 7, comprising a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as wax and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a surfactant, and c) optionally 0.01% to 1.0% by weight of preservatives.

9. The wax dispersion according to claim 7 comprising a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as wax, b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of preservatives.

10. The wax dispersion according to claim 7 comprising a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as wax consisting of a1) 3% to 10% by weight of monoester of ethylene glycol and a2) 90% to 97% by weight of diester of ethylene glycol, and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl and/or alkylene polyglucosides, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of preservatives.

11. The wax dispersion according to claim 7 comprising a) 15% to 30% by weight of an ester of ethylene glycol as wax consisting of 3% to 10% by weight of monoester and 90% to 97% by weight of diester of ethylene glycol with a mixture of fatty acids composed of 40% to 60% by weight of stearic acid and 40% to 60% by weight of palmitic acid and b) 10% to 30% by weight of a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl and/or alkylene polyglucosides, and c) optionally 0.01% to 0.5% by weight of preservatives.

12. The wax dispersion according to claim 7, wherein the wax dispersion is free of petrochemical compounds.

13. The wax dispersion according to claim 7, wherein the esters of ethylene glycol have a melting point above 40° C.

14. The esters according to claim 1 for use in generating cloudiness or pearlescence in cosmetic compositions for cleansing skin and/or hair.

15. (canceled)

16. A cosmetic cleanser for skin and hair comprising an ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 as a pearlescent or opacifying agent.

17. A process for the production of a cosmetic cleanser, wherein an ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1, in the form of a dispersion at room temperature, is added with stirring to one or more initially charged constituents of the cosmetic composition.

18. A process for the production of a cosmetic cleanser, wherein an ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 1 is heated to temperatures above the melting point and stirred with at least one of the remaining constituents of the cosmetic composition.

19. The waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 3 wherein the mixture contains 0.5% to 10% by weight of monoester of ethylene glycol and 90% to 99.5% by weight of diester of ethylene glycol.

20. The waxy ester of ethylene glycol according to claim 4 wherein the fatty acid have 12 to 2 carbon atoms.

21. The wax dispersion of claim 8 wherein the surfactant is an alkylene oxide-free surfactant.

22. The wax dispersion of claim 9 wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of alkyl and/or alkylene polyglucosides.

23. The wax dispersion according to claim 13 wherein the esters of ethylene glycol have a melting point below 75° C.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0220] A) Preparation Examples for Ethylene Glycol Distearate of the Invention

Inventive Example A1

[0221] A mixture of 2172.5 g (=35 mol) of plant-based ethylene glycol (indices: at least 99.8% by weight monoethylene glycol and at most 0.06 diethylene glycol; at most 0.06% by weight water; commercially available from India Glycols Bio MEG) and 19 913.6 g (=70 mol) of technical-grade stearic acid (composition C.sub.16 fatty acid:C.sub.18 fatty acid=1:1; commercially available as Palmera B1804® from KLK Oleo) and 11 g of tin oxalate (esterification catalyst, commercially available as Fascate® 2001 from PMC Organometallix, Inc.) was heated to 160° C. About 80% of the theoretical amount of water was distilled off within 16 hours.

[0222] The mixture was then heated to 240° C. and the remaining amount of water removed within 26 hours.

[0223] For the workup, the product was stirred with an NaOH solution (184.6 g dissolved in 500 g of deionized water) for 30 minutes at 80° C., filtered and dried.

[0224] This afforded 14 998 g of a white, solid product with the following characteristics:

[0225] Acid number AN according to DIN 53402=1.6

[0226] Hydroxyl number OHN according to DIN 53240=4.7

[0227] Saponification number SN according to DIN 53401=196.2

[0228] Melting point on Kofler hot bench=63.2° C.

Comparative Example Ethylene Glycol Distearate A2 (not According to the Invention)

[0229] Serving as comparison was an ethylene glycol distearate prepared from petrochemical ethylene glycol (indices: at least 99.9% by weight monoethylene glycol and at most 0.05 diethylene glycol; at most 0.05% by weight water) having the following characteristics:

[0230] Acid number AN according to DIN 53402<1

[0231] Hydroxyl number OHN according to DIN 53240<15

[0232] Melting point on Kofler hot bench=63.2° C.

[0233] commercially available, for example, as Cutina® AGS, BASF Personal Care & Nutrition GmbH.

[0234] The current 100% biogenic activity, i.e. biogenic proportion of .sup.14C carbon in % is defined for 2018 according to DIN at 13.6 dpm/gC, independently of the matrix.

[0235] The ethylene glycol distearate of the invention prepared according to example 1 and the petrochemical ethylene glycol distearate according to the comparative example have the following .sup.14C contents (8 measurements):

TABLE-US-00001 Carbon chain distri- % .sup.14C bution C.sub.16 and C.sub.18 GC % by weight % .sup.14C C16 C18 Monoester Diester Of the invention 100 44.4: 52.5 0.9 98.8 according to A1 Comparison A2  98 48-52: 48-52 8 92 Ethylene glycol 100 Not present, as there — — as basis for A1 is no ester

[0236] B) Production of the Wax Dispersions/Pearlescent Concentrates

[0237] The following pearlescent concentrates/wax dispersions were produced (table 1). The amounts are given in % by weight of active substance AS, based on the wax dispersion/pearlescent concentrate.

[0238] To produce the wax dispersion, ⅔ of the total amount of water was initially charged and heated to 85° C. Ethylene glycol distearate (of the invention or comparison) and the alkyl polyglucosides were stirred into the hot phase in succession. At 64° C., the last ⅓ of the total amount of water was added and the mixture was stirred. From 40° C., Na benzoate, Na sulfate and citric acid were added and stirred.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 1 Wax dispersions Comparison Composition (INCI) B1 B2 Wax body    22.5 — Ethylene glycol distearate of the invention according to A1 Wax body —    22.5 Ethylene glycol distearate according to comparison A2 Lauryl glucoside*    19    19 Plantacare 1200 ® C8/C10-alkyl glucoside*    8.3    8.3 Glucopon 215 UP ® Benzoic acid    0.5    0.5 Citric acid 50%    12.4    12.4 Water ad 100 ad 100 pH    4.7    4.7 Viscosity   8800 12 360 Viscosity after thickening at 40° C. 12 120 18 200 Appearance whiteness +    0 Appearance pearlescence +    0 *Amount based on active substance

[0239] Viscosity was determined by the Brookfield method (23° C., spindle 5, 10 rpm, mPas).

[0240] The whiteness/pearlescence was ascertained visually by naked eye by comparison with one another.

[0241] As can be seen from table 1, the wax dispersion with the plant-based ethylene glycol difatty acid ester A1 of the invention exhibits better whiteness/pearlescence and a lower viscosity compared to the wax dispersion with the petrochemical-based ethylene glycol distearate A2.

[0242] C) Production of Further Wax Dispersions/Pearlescent Concentrates

[0243] Further pearlescent concentrates/wax dispersions were produced according to table 2. The amounts are given in % by weight of active substance AS, based on the wax dispersion/pearlescent concentrate.

[0244] To produce the wax dispersion, water, ethylene glycol distearate (according to the invention) and the surfactants laureth-4 (C12 fatty alcohol ethoxylated with an average of 4 mol of ethylene oxide), cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium laureth sulfate (Na salt of a C12 ether sulfate ethoxylated with an average of 1 ethylene oxide) and Na benzoate were heated to 85° C. with stirring at approx. 50 rpm. The dispersion is allowed to cool to 25° C. with stirring at approx. 50 rpm. Citric acid was then added and the mixture was stirred.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 2 Wax dispersions C1-C4 Composition (INCI) C1 C2 C3 C4 Wax body 20 26 18 20 Ethylene glycol distearate of the invention according to A1 Surfactant 5 12 — — Laureth-4 Surfactant — 8 2 20 Cocamidopropyl betaine Surfactant — — 20 — Sodium laureth-1 sulfate Na benzoate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Citric acid 50% 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Water ad 100 ad 100 pH (10% in water) 4.5 4.2 4.4 4.2 Viscosity in mPas; Brookfield RVT, 2500 8000 3500 3000 spindle 4/10 rpm Appearance whiteness + + + + Appearance pearlescence + + + +

[0245] D) Production of a Hair Shampoo with Wax Dispersion B1)

[0246] To produce the hair shampoo, water was initially charged at room temperature in accordance with table 3, and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (thickener) was scattered in and dispersed. The surfactants laureth-4 (C12 fatty alcohol ethoxylated with an average of 4 mol of ethylene oxide) and cocamidopropyl betaine were dissolved therein. The wax dispersion from example B1) and the further constituents were then added and the mixture was stirred. The amounts in table 3 are in % by weight, the % by weight for the wax dispersion relating to the wax dispersion of B1) and the % by weight for the surfactants relating to the active substance content AS.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 3 Hair shampoo D1) Composition (INCI) D1 Water    82.5 Surfactant    10.0 Sodium laureth-1 sulfate Surfactant    2.0 Cocamidopropyl betaine Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride    0.2 Wax dispersion B1)    2 Na benzoate    0.5 Citric acid 50%    0.3 Sodium chloride    2.0 Perfume    0.3 pH (10% in water)    4.8 Viscosity in mPas; Brookfield RVT, 10 000 spindle 4/10 rpm Appearance whiteness + Appearance pearlescence +