SOLID COSMETIC COMPOSITION THAT GLIDES ON AND MELTS AWAY ON APPLICATION

Abstract

A solid cosmetic composition including at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from sucrose polyesters, at least one fatty substance having a melting point between 25° C. and 55° C., at least one oil, at least one colorant. Also, a stick including the solid cosmetic composition, a method for preparing the solid cosmetic composition and a method for making up the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, including the application of the solid cosmetic composition.

Claims

1-14. (canceled)

15. A solid cosmetic composition comprising: at least one lipophilic gelling agent selected from sucrose polyesters, at least one fatty agent having a melting point between 25° C. and 55° C., at least one oil, at least one colorant, at least one wax, in a proportion of less than 9% by weight, preferably 7 to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and at least one lipophilic gelling agent other than the sucrose polyester, in a proportion of less than 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the sucrose polyester is an ester of sucrose, of stearic acid and of acetic acid, and preferably the lipophilic gelling agent is sucrose tetrastearate triacetate.

17. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent is present in a proportion of between 5 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the fatty agent having a melting point between 25 and 55° C. is selected from hydrogenated ricin oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated suet, hydrogenated coconut oil, propyleneglycol myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl alcohol and a mixture thereof, and preferably the fatty agent having a melting point between 25° C. and 55° C. is hydrogenated coconut oil.

19. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the fatty agent having a melting point between 25 and 55° C. is present in a proportion of between 7 and 15% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

20. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition comprises less than 5% by weight volatile oil, and preferably the composition is free from volatile oil.

21. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the oil is present in a proportion of between 30% and 70% by weight, preferably between 45% and 65% by weight, more preferentially between 50% and 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition comprises a pasty fatty compound.

23. The composition according to claim 21, wherein the pasty fatty compound is present in a proportion of between 1% by weight and 40% by weight, preferably between 5% by weight and 30% by weight, even more preferably between 10% by weight and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

24. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the total colorant content is between 0.1% and 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

25. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition is free from lipophilic gelling agent other than sucrose polyester.

26. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition is anhydrous.

27. The composition according to claim 15, wherein the composition comprises: 5 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, lipophilic gelling agent selected from sucrose polyesters, and preferably sucrose tetrastearate triacetate, 7 to 15% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, a fatty agent having a melting point between 25° C. and 55° C., and preferably hydrogenated coconut oil, 30 to 70% by weight oil, with respect to the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 15% by weight colorant, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and optionally 5% to 40% by weight a pasty fatty compound, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

28. A method for making up the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, comprising applying the composition according to claim 15.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0182] FIG. 1 illustrates the result of the clinical evaluation, implemented by 3 trained evaluators on standardised photographs of 22 Caucasian women, with regard to the properties of staying power, homogeneity, intensity of the colour, intensity of gloss and migration of the composition of example 1 according to the invention.

EXAMPLE

[0183] Lipstick compositions were prepared with the following formulae (% by weight):

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Invention Comparative Ex 1 Ex 2 Function Ingredient TRADE NAME (%) (%) Lipophilic Sucrose SISTERNA 7 0 gelling agent tetrastearate A10E-C triacetate Fatty agent with Hydrogenated HYDRABASE 32- 9 0 melting point coconut oil 34 [25° C.-55° C.] Oil Phytosteryl/octyldod Eldew PS203 11 15 ecyl Lauroyl glutamate Oil Diisostearyl malate SALACOS 222 13.6 9.6 Oil Squalane PHYTOSQUALAN 13.5 9 Oil Caprylic capric MIGLYOL 812 N 7.25 10 triglyceride Oil Isotridecyl DERMOL 139 5.8 8 isononanoate Oil Pentaerythrityl SALACOS 5408 4 10.8 tetraethylhexanoate Oil Sorbitan isostearate SPAN 120-LQ 1.5 2 Wax Copolymer of LIPWAX PZ80-20 7.025 9 ethylene/propylene and synthetic wax Wax Jojoba esters & ACTICIRE 0.12 polyglycerin-3 & Acacia decurrens flower wax & Helianthus annuus cera seed (sunflower)seed wax pasty fatty Bis-behenyl/ PLANDOOL-G 13 18 substance isostearyl/ phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate Emollient Meadowfoam Delta- 1.45 2 Lactone Antimicrobial Lauryl PCA 0.725 1 hydrator Colorant Nacres 0.5 3.35 Colorant Pigments 4.33 2.05 Perfume Perfume 0.08 0.1 Active agent 0.12 0.1

[0184] Preparation methodology of example 1 of the invention

[0185] (1) Grinding the pigments, in advance in a portion of the oil: diisostearyl malate;

[0186] (2) Melting the wax, the fatty agent having a melting point of between 25° C. and 55° C., the lipophilic gelling agent, the remainder of the oil and the pasty fatty compound (e);

[0187] (3) Adding, to the molten mixture obtained at (2), the nacres and the pigments of step (1) under continuous stirring;

[0188] (4) Adding the active agents or the perfumes; and

[0189] (5) Casting the composition obtained at step (4) hot in moulds, and then leaving to cool until solidification.

[0190] Preparation methodology of comparative example 2 outside the invention

[0191] (1) Grinding the pigments, in advance in a portion of the oil: diisostearyl malate;

[0192] (2) Melting the wax, the remainder of the oil and the pasty fatty compound (3);

[0193] (3) Adding, to the molten mixture obtained at (2), the nacres and the pigments of step (1) under continuous stirring;

[0194] (4) Adding the active agents or the perfumes; and

[0195] (5) Casting the composition obtained at step (4) hot in moulds, and then leaving to cool until solidification.

[0196] The composition of example 1 and the comparative composition of example 2 were evaluated from the sensory point of view by a panel of 19 trained evaluators, who allocated a mark out of 10 on the following criteria. The results are presented in table 2:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Example 1 (according Example 2 to the invention) (comparative) Slipperiness 8.26 7.8 Melting away on 8.51 7.94 application Thickness of deposition 4.57 3.51 Opacity of deposit 5.27 3.34 Intensity of colour (up 6.36 3.77 to 5 minutes after application)

[0197] The result of these tests is that the composition according to the invention has better slipperiness and confers a melting sensation on application that is superior compared with the comparative composition, without degrading the gloss. The deposit obtained is thicker, much more opaque, and the colour is more intense up to 5 minutes after application.

[0198] The properties of staying power, homogeneity, colour intensity, gloss intensity and migration of the composition of example 1 according to the invention were moreover tested. The clinical evaluation was made by 3 trained evaluators on standardised photographs of 22 Caucasian women.

[0199] The results are presented in FIG. 1.

[0200] The composition according to the invention has very good properties of staying power, homogeneity, colour intensity, gloss intensity and migration, in particular up to 4 hours after application.