Hair coloring composition and related coloring kit

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair coloring composition based on natural ingredients and with a separate alkalizing agent, which can be used both in direct coloring and oxidative coloring and related coloring kit.

Claims

1. A hair coloring kit comprising: a) a coloring composition, b) an alkalizing composition comprising one or more alkalizing agents, and c) an oxidizing composition that comprises one or more oxidizing agents, wherein said coloring composition is in the form of a gel that comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; gums as viscosifiers, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the coloring composition; and dyes or their oxidation intermediates.

2. A hair coloring method comprising mixing a coloring composition a) with an alkalizing composition b), wherein: a) the coloring composition comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%, while said consistency factors are in a percentage ranging from 1% to 50%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the coloring composition, and dyes or their oxidation intermediates, and b) an alkalizing composition comprises ammonia as alkalizing agent, wherein said mixing is effected as follows: for shades from 1 to 6, adding the composition b) to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 0.5% to 1.2% of ammonia, in order to obtain a medium basic pH coloring; or adding the composition b) to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 1.2% to 2.8% of ammonia, in order to obtain a basic pH coloring; for shades from 7 to 10, adding the composition b) to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 0.7% to 1.8% of ammonia, in order to obtain a medium basic pH coloring; or adding the composition b) to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 1.8% to 3.5% of ammonia, in order to obtain a basic pH coloring; for super-lighteners (shade 12), adding the composition b) to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 0.7% to 1.2% of ammonia, in order to obtain a medium basic pH coloring; or adding the composition b) to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 1.2% to 5% of ammonia, in order to obtain a basic pH coloring; said percentages being by weight with respect to the sum of the weight of the coloring composition and of the weight of the alkalizing composition.

3. A hair coloring method comprising applying on hair a coloring composition with an acidic pH to obtain the shades from 1 to 6, shades from 7 to 10 or super-lighteners (shade 12), wherein said coloring composition is in the form of a gel that comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; gums as viscosifiers, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the coloring composition; and dyes or their oxidation intermediates.

4. A hair coloring method comprising mixing a coloring composition a) with an alkalizing composition b), and adding an oxidizing composition c) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, wherein: a) said coloring composition comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%, while said consistency factors are in a percentage ranging from 1% to 50%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the coloring composition, and dyes or their oxidation intermediates, and b) the alkalizing composition comprises one or more alkalizing agents; wherein the composition b) is added to the composition a) in such an amount as to obtain from 0.5 to 10% of alkalizing agent.

5. The kit of claim 1, wherein the oxidizing composition comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the oxidizing composition, one or more oxidizing agents.

6. The kit of claim 1, wherein said alkalizing composition comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the alkalizing composition; and one or more alkalizing agents.

7. The kit of claim 1, wherein said oxidizing composition is in a form of cream and comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers and/or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the oxidizing composition; and one or more oxidizing agents.

8. The method of claim 4, wherein said oxidizing composition is in a form of cream and comprises: one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%, while said consistency factors are in a percentage ranging from 1% to 50%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the oxidizing composition; and one or more oxidizing agents.

9. The kit of claim 1, wherein said one or more alkalizing agents are ammines selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, arginine or other amino acids or tris (tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane).

10. The method according to claim 2, wherein the alkalizing composition comprises one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%, while said consistency factors are in a percentage ranging from 1% to 50%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the alkalizing composition, and ammonia.

11. The method according to claim 2, wherein the viscosifiers are selected from xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum, guar gum, gum arabic, gum derived from sugars and wherein the consistency factors are selected from waxes, fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids.

12. The method according to claim 4, wherein the alkalizing composition comprises one or more natural solvents in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 90%; one or more natural surfactants in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 30%; viscosifiers or consistency factors, wherein said viscosifiers are in a percentage ranging from 0.01% to 10%, while said consistency factors are in a percentage ranging from 1% to 50%; said percentages being by weight with respect to the alkalizing composition, and one or more alkalizing agents to obtain an alkalizing composition.

13. The method according to claim 4, wherein said one or more alkalizing agents are ammines selected from ammonia, monoethanolamine, aminomethyl propanol, arginine or other amino acids or tris (tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane).

14. The method according to claim 4, wherein the viscosifiers are selected from xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum, guar gum, gum arabic, gum derived from sugars and wherein the consistency factors are selected from waxes, fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids.

Description

DESCRIPTION OF SPECIFIC EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

(1) The invention will be described below by way of illustration and not by way of limitation, with particular reference to some illustrative examples.

Example 1

Base Coloring Cream Formulations

(2) The cases include all formulations in the category of emulsions, wherein, therefore, a fat phase and an aqueous phase are present.

(3) The percentages of the ingredients are by weight with respect to the weight of the coloring formulation. The ingredients are listed in subgroups called phases for the sake of simplicity in the description of the method for preparing the formulation.

(4) Phase 1 CETYLSTEARYL ALCOHOL 15% (or other alcohols and fatty acids, similarly of natural derivation) OLIVE OIL 3% (or other vegetable oils) JOJOBA WAX 5% (or other plant waxes such as mimosa wax, rice wax, etc., or animal waxes, if the product not is vegan, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, etc.) SHEA BUTTER 5% (or other natural butters) CAPRYLIC-CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3% (or other emollient oils of natural derivation)

(5) Phase 2 PROPANEDIOL 10% (or other solvents of plant origin) LAURYL GLUCOSIDE 5% (or other surfactants of plant origin) ASCORBIC ACID 0.5% (or other antioxidant agents of natural origin) NATURAL CHELATING AGENT 2% SODIUM BISULFITE 0.2% ALKALIZING AGENT (a small percentage is added, which serves to bind the dyes and solubilize them in the form of salts, thus making them available within the formulation; the percentage of alkalizing agent is calculated stoichiometrically on the basis of the exact moles of dye introduced into the specific shade. This addition is defined technical because the alkalizing agent, once the formulation is completed, will not be present in a free form, but only in a form bound to the dyes, and it thus does not participate in the pH of the formulation; in any case, however, it is indicated in INCI labels). WATER (q.s. to 100%)

(6) Phase 3 DYES (in different percentages according to the selected shade)

(7) Phase 4 a.i. (various active ingredients) 3%

(8) Method of Preparation:

(9) Phases 1 and 2 are brought to a temperature of about 80° C. The dyes of the phase 3 are dissolved in phase 2. The two phases are mixed together, under appropriate stirring, until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained. At this point, the temperature is gradually decreased and the final phase of the active ingredients is added.

(10) All the substances selected on the basis of the specific features it is desired to give to the formulation are included in the category of active ingredients, for example functional active ingredients that have protective properties when it is desired to impart a hair protective function to the formulation.

Example 2

Base Coloring Gel Formulations

(11) The cases include all formulations that provide for the use of a gelling agent.

(12) Phase 1 PROPANEDIOL 10% (or other solvents of plant origin) LAURYL GLUCOSIDE 5% (or other surfactants of plant origin) ASCORBIC ACID 0.5% (or other antioxidant agents of natural origin) NATURAL CHELATING AGENT 2% SODIUM BISULFITE 0.2% ALKALIZING AGENT (a small percentage is added, which serves to bind the dyes and solubilize them in the form of salts, thus making them available within the formulation; the percentage of alkalizing agent is calculated stoichiometrically on the basis of the exact moles of dye introduced into the specific shade. This addition is defined technical because the alkalizing agent, once the formulation is completed, will not be present in a free form, but only in a form bound to the dyes, and it thus does not participate in the pH of the formulation; in any case, however, it is indicated in INCI labels). WATER (q.s. to 100%)

(13) Phase 2 DYES (in different percentages according to the selected shade)

(14) Phase 3 a.i. (various active ingredients) 3%

(15) Phase 4 NATURAL GELLING AGENT 1% PROPANEDIOL 10% (or other solvents of plant origin)

(16) Method of Preparation:

(17) Phase 1 is brought to a temperature of 60° C. or higher (depending on the dyes selected). PHASE 2 of the dyes is added to this and they are brought to complete dissolution.

(18) Once a homogeneous solution has been obtained, phase 3 of the active ingredients is added, the mixture is homogenized and phase 4 of the viscosifying agent is added.

Example 3

Booster Formulation

(19) The cases include all formulations in the category of emulsions, wherein, therefore, a fat phase and an aqueous phase are present, and wherein the alkalizing agent is present in the amounts necessary to perform its BOOSTER action.

(20) The percentages of the ingredients are by weight with respect to weight of the alkalizing formulation. The ingredients are listed in subgroups called phases for the sake of simplicity in the description of the method for preparing the formulation.

(21) Phase 1 CETYLSTEARYL ALCOHOL 25% (or other alcohols and fatty acids, similarly of natural derivation) OLIVE OIL 2% (or other vegetable oils) JOJOBA WAX 2% (or other plant waxes such as mimosa wax, rice wax, etc., or animal waxes, if the product not is vegan, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, etc.) SHEA BUTTER 2% (or other natural butters) CAPRYLIC-CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2% (or other emollient oils of natural derivation)

(22) Phase 2 PROPANEDIOL 10% (or other solvents of plant origin) NATURAL CHELATING AGENT 2%

(23) Phase 3 ALKALIZING AGENT (NH4OH) 27% in BOOSTER 01 33% in BOOSTER 02 WATER (q.s. to 100%)

(24) Phase 4 a.i. (various active ingredients) 3%

(25) Method of Preparation

(26) Phases 1 and 2 are brought to a temperature of about 80° C. The two phases are mixed together, under appropriate stirring, until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained. At this point, the temperature is gradually decreased and phase 3 is added, again gradually, along with the final phase 4 of the active ingredients.

Example 4

Formulation Containing Oxidizing Agent

(27) The cases include all formulations in the category of emulsions, wherein, therefore, a fat phase and an aqueous phase are present, and wherein the oxidizing agent is present in the amounts necessary to perform its specific action.

(28) The percentages of the ingredients are by weight with respect to weight of the oxidizing formulation. The ingredients are listed in subgroups called phases for the sake of simplicity in the description of the method for preparing the formulation.

(29) Phase 1 CETYLSTEARYL ALCOHOL 25% (or other alcohols and fatty acids, similarly of natural derivation) OLIVE OIL 2% (or other vegetable oils) JOJOBA WAX 2% (or other plant waxes such as mimosa wax, rice wax, etc., or animal waxes, if the product not is vegan, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, etc.) SHEA BUTTER 2% (or other natural butters) CAPRYLIC-CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2% (or other emollient oils of natural derivation)

(30) Phase 2 PROPANEDIOL 10% (or other solvents of plant origin) PHOSPHORIC ACID 0.5% max ETIDRONIC ACID 0.5% max or other acidifying and/or stabilizing agents of the oxidizing formulation

(31) Phase 3

(32) H.sub.2O.sub.2 (130 vol hydrogen peroxide solution introduced in different percentages according to the volume of oxygen it is desired to achieve) WATER (q.s. to 100%)

(33) Phase 4 ACRYLATES AND METHACRYLATES 5% (or natural derivatives such as those of cellulose)

(34) Method of Preparation

(35) Phases 1 and 2 are brought to a temperature of about 80° C. The two phases are mixed together, under appropriate stirring, until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained. At this point, the temperature is gradually decreased and phase 3 is added, again gradually, along with the final phase 4 of the viscosifiers.

Example 5

Coloring Test

(36) For every type of formulation produced, the following test protocol was adopted:

(37) Product Functional Tests

(38) STRAND TEST: for all types of colorings, the following strands were used:

(39) NATURAL BROWN SHADE 5 (to simulate the result on untreated brown hair);

(40) SALT&PEPPER (natural hair shade 5 with 50% of natural white hair; to simulate the effect of white hair coverage);

(41) DECOLORED (strand decolorized to shade 8-9 to simulate the effect of coloring on treated, sensitized hair);

(42) YAK (completely white goat hair, which serves to visualize the pure reflection of the color).

(43) In addition to strands of hair, use is also made of a MULTIFIBRE DW 2 fabric (by Ausiliari Tessili), which serves to visualize the reflection and the color level on different types of natural fiber (cotton, wool, nylon etc.). This approach is used because the color absorption of some textile fibers is very similar to that of hair fibers.

(44) The results obtained are then read by means of a KONIKA MINOLTA CM30d SPECTROPHOTOMETER, which expresses the results in values of L (luminous intensity) and ab (reflections).

(45) In 1976, the CIE developed the L*a*b calorimetric model (also known by the name of CIELAB), wherein a color is identified by three values:

(46) L, luminance, expressed as a percentage (0 for black and 100 for white);

(47) a and b, two ranges of colors respectively from green to red and from blue to yellow, with values from −120 to +120.

(48) The Lab method thus covers the entire spectrum visible to the human eye and represents it in a uniform manner. It thus enables the set of visible colors to be described independently of any graphic technology.

(49) TESTS ON THE HEAD: once the tests on strands and fabric have received approval, one proceeds to tests on the head. In this case there is greater information, given by the difference in hair structure, whether the hair is more or less natural or treated, and whether the scalp is more or less sensitive.

(50) RESULTS: for every test conducted we obtained satisfactory results from the viewpoint both of the reflection and of the hair color level (compared with known market benchmarks), from the viewpoint of color fastness to washing and exposure to sunlight, and from the viewpoint of the compliance of the model who underwent the tests, who never complained of skin discomfort and showed complete satisfaction with the color result and fastness. Overall, we performed about 1,000 strand tests and about 500 tests on model.

(51) Product Stability Test

(52) Simultaneously with the functionality tests, product stability tests are performed by storing the various formulations in an oven at 40° C. and stressing them with storage in an oven at 40° C. alternated with storage in a freezer at about −5° C.-10° C.

(53) PRODUCT TOXICITY TESTS: before tests were performed on the head, dermatological tests were conducted by external institutes (e.g. ISPE and MEURIEUX), to assay, by means of patch tests on healthy volunteers, both the potential skin irritation and the allergizing potential. It emerged from these tests that the product, in all its versions and forms, has a skin irritation potential, both immediate and delayed (in 48 h), equal to 0, therefore, a high skin tolerance.

Example 5

Mixing of the Components of the Kit According to the Present Invention Based on the Desired Shades

(54) The percentages of booster to be added to the coloring composition, wherein the booster 01 contains 27% NH.sub.4OH and the booster 02 contains 33% NH4OH, are specified below.

(55) Shades from 1 to 6

(56) ACHIEVABLE COLORINGS:

(57) acidic pH: 0% BOOSTER 01

(58) medium-basic pH: 10% BOOSTER 01

(59) basic pH: 20% BOOSTER 01

(60) Shades from 7 to 10

(61) ACHIEVABLE COLORINGS:

(62) acidic pH: 0% BOOSTER 02

(63) medium-basic pH: 10% BOOSTER 02

(64) basic pH: 20% BOOSTER 02

(65) Shade 12

(66) ACHIEVABLE COLORINGS:

(67) acidic pH: 0% BOOSTER 02

(68) medium-basic pH: 10% BOOSTER 02

(69) basic pH: 30% BOOSTER 02

(70) The application is completed by the addition of the third component, i.e. the one containing the oxidizing agent, HYDROGEN PEROXIDE. Descriptive examples follow:

(71) Shades from 1 to 6

(72) ACHIEVABLE COLORINGS:

(73) acidic pH: 0% BOOSTER 01

(74) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)

(75) medium-basic pH: 10% BOOSTER 01

(76) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)+component b) BOOSTER 01 (5 g)

(77) basic pH: 20% BOOSTER 01

(78) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)+component b) BOOSTER 01 (10 g)

(79) Shades from 7 to 10

(80) ACHIEVABLE COLORINGS:

(81) acidic pH: 0% BOOSTER 02

(82) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)

(83) medium-basic pH: 10% BOOSTER 02

(84) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)+component b) BOOSTER 02 (5 g)

(85) basic pH: 20% BOOSTER 02

(86) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)+component b) BOOSTER 02 (10 g)

(87) Shade 12

(88) ACHIEVABLE COLORINGS:

(89) acidic pH: 0% BOOSTER 02

(90) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)

(91) medium-basic pH: 10% BOOSTER 02

(92) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (50 g)+component b) BOOSTER 02 (5 g)

(93) basic pH: 30% BOOSTER 02

(94) selected shade (50 g)+oxidizing component c) (100 g)+component b) BOOSTER 02 (15 g)

(95) The present invention has been described for non-limiting illustrative purposes, according to its preferred embodiments, but it is to be considered that any variations and/or modifications may be made by persons skilled in the art without departing from the relative scope of protection, as defined by the appended claims.