WATER-RESPONSIVE SHAPE MEMORY WOOL FIBER, FABRIC AND TEXTILE COMPRISING THEREOF, AND METHOD FOR PREPARING THE SAME
20220119990 · 2022-04-21
Inventors
Cpc classification
D04B1/14
TEXTILES; PAPER
D02G3/26
TEXTILES; PAPER
International classification
Abstract
The present invention provides water-responsive, shape-memory natural fiber, yarn, fabric and textile comprising thereof with pore actuating function, and method for preparing the same. Fabric and textile prepared according to the present invention possess switchable pore size and shape responsive to varying water content absorbed thereby, and also exert corresponding thermal and water vapor regulations between the wearer and the surroundings with respect to the temperature and humidity changes.
Claims
1. A water-responsive, shape-memory wool fabric comprising: a plurality of yarns being plied at a first twisting frequency, each of the yarns being prepared by: a plurality of natural fibers being processed to remove scales thereon before being spun at a second twisting frequency; the plurality of plied yarns being knitted in a knitting pattern followed by setting at a first temperature for a first period of time and then drying thereof at a second temperature for a second period of time such that the resulting fabric possesses varying fiber and yarn diameter and length, and pores actuating according to change in water absorption level by the fabric.
2. The wool fabric of claim 1, wherein the first twisting frequency is from 200 to 700 twists per meter of the yarns.
3. The wool fabric of claim 2, wherein the plurality of yarns being plied is between two and five single yarns at the first twisting frequency of 200 to 400 twists per meter of the yarns.
4. The wool fabric of claim 1, wherein the plurality of natural fibers is processed by chlorination in an ultrasonic bath.
5. The wool fabric of claim 4, wherein the ultrasonic bath contains a chlorination solution comprising sodium hypochlorite, hydrochloric acid, and nano-calcium carbonate; the ultrasonic bath is set at an ultrasonic frequency and power of 35 KHz and 40 W, respectively, under a temperature of 37° C.
6. The wool fabric of claim 5, wherein the plurality of natural fibers are immersed into the ultrasonic bath for about 45 minutes to remove surface scales of the natural fibers, and the natural fibers include animal fibers.
7. The wool fabric of claim 4, wherein the plurality of natural fibers after being processed by said chlorination is twisted at the second twisting frequency of 100 to 600 twists per meter of the fibers to obtain each of the plurality of yarns.
8. The wool fabric of claim 7, wherein the plurality of natural fibers is twisted by ring spinning either in a combed or carded manner.
9. The wool fabric of claim 7, wherein the second twisting frequency is from 200 to 400 twists per meter of the fibers.
10. The wool fabric of claim 1, wherein the first temperature of setting the plurality of plied yarns after being knitted in the knitting pattern is about 100° C. and the first period of time is about 10 to 90 minutes.
11. The wool fabric of claim 10, wherein the plurality of plied yarns after being knitted in the knitting pattern is set by steaming.
12. The wool fabric of claim 1, wherein the second temperature is about 105° C. and the second period of time is about 10 to 90 minutes.
13. The wool fabric of claim 1, wherein the plurality of natural fibers, yarns and fabric knitted therefrom are biodegradable.
14. A textile comprising the wool fabric of claim 1.
15. A method for preparing the wool fabric of claim 1, comprising: descaling surface scales of the plurality of natural fibers by chlorination under ultrasound; combing or carding the plurality of natural fibers after said descaling; twisting the plurality of natural fibers at a frequency of 100 to 600 twists per meter of the fibers to yield a plurality of single yarns; twisting a plurality of single yarns each time at a frequency of 200 to 700 twists per meter of the single yarns to yield a plurality of plied yarns; setting the plurality of plied yarns by steaming followed by drying; knitting the plurality of plied yarns according to a knitting pattern to yield a fabric with the knitting pattern having a plurality of pores capable of actuating according to water absorbed by the fabric, and variable fiber and yarn diameter and length subject to the level of water absorbed by the fabric and changes in surface temperature of the fabric.
16. The method of claim 15, wherein the plurality of natural fibers is ring spun at 200 to 400 twists per meter after said combining or carding.
17. The method of claim 15, wherein the plurality of single yarns are two to five single yarns being twisted by plying at 400 to 600 twists per meter.
18. The method of claim 15, wherein the setting of the plurality of plied yarns by steaming is for about 10 to 90 minutes following by said drying at about 105° C. for about 10 to 90 minutes in an oven.
19. A textile made of a wool fabric prepared according to the method of claim 15.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0036] Embodiments of the invention are described in more details hereinafter with reference to the drawings, in which:
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DEFINITIONS
[0057] “mass per unit area” and “thickness” of fabric are determined by some standardized test procedures including respectively, but not limited to, ASTM D3776/D3776M-09ae2 (2009) and ASTM D1777-96e1 (2011). Some sample thicknesses are measured by an SDL thickness gauge. In addition, a scanning electron microscope (JSM-6510LV, voltage: 20 kV) and a light microscope (LEICA M165 C) are used to investigate the surface morphology and the fibers, yarns and fabric images, respectively.
[0058] Effect of water on molecular vibration due to dipole moment change is identified by ATR-FTIR (The Bruker Veertex-70) analysis on dry and wet samples. The test is conducted in the range of 400-4000 cm.sup.−1 with a 16 scan numbers.
[0059] “Elastic modulus” of each of the natural fibers described herein is measured by using Instron 4411 Universal Testing Instrument. Briefly, the natural fiber, e.g., wool fiber, is attached on a paper template with a 3 cm window. The tests are carried out under standard testing environment (20° C., 65% RH) with a crosshead speed 100 mm/min. For each of dry and wet conditions, 20 samples are considered randomly, and their average elastic modulus values are obtained.
[0060] Shape memory effect (SME) described herein with respect to the yarn is qualitatively and also quantitatively assessed by taking single fibers from an as-prepared yarn of the fabric using tweezer and soaked in water at 20° C. for 1 hour to ensure the full interaction with water. Finally, the shape change and recovery behavior of fibers were captured and observed through a commercial camera. The SME of wool yarns was measured in terms of length and diameter changes triggered by water. The conditioned yarn packages were transformed to 1 lea of skein (10 meters in length) by wrap reel method in order to enhance accuracy in measurement of length and diameter change of the yarns stimulated with water and relaxation was done on the skein before marking. After that the skein was oven dried at 105° C. for 1 hour. Thereafter immediately the length and diameter of dried yarns were recorded by a light microscope and immersed in water at 20° C. for 1 hour in order to measure the change in length and diameter of the corresponding yarn in water. Subsequently, the yarns are taken out of water and excess water is removed by hydroextractor. Finally, the yarn's shape changes including length and diameter are recorded in wet using a light microscope and examined by image analysis software (Image J). Likewise, for characterizing fabric's SME, the samples are treated with water according to the procedure for studying yarns with a conditioned fabric sample size 10*10 cm.sup.2 by a marker and the area change during hydration and dehydration process is measured. The SME of the yarn and fabric are tested five times consecutively to evaluate the repeatability.
[0061] Water absorption level or percentage (%) described herein is identified as water-driven pore actuation behavior of a wool fabric due to SME. Images of back layer of the fabrics (attached to the body) at different water absorption percentages are taken using a light microscope and then pore area change % at different water absorption % are measured and compared by Image J software. Water absorption hereby can be calculated as follows:
[0062] where W=Weight of absorbed water by the fabric; D=Weight of dried fabric
[0063] “Thermoregulation” described herein can be determined as the heat regulation and dissipation rate of the water-driven pore-actuating knitwear prepared according to various embodiment of the present invention under different water gradients and compared with respect to air permeability thermal conductivity, water vapor transmission and radiative heat loss.
[0064] For air permeability and thermal conductivity, 0, 25, 50, 75 and 100% of water absorption are considered and examined five times for average values. However, during thermal conductivity measurement, the water absorption usually initiates from 5% instead of absolute 0% because at 0% (completely dried state) water absorption the samples are completely oven dried and are shown to have high surface temperature, which can directly affect the results of the thermal conductivity. Hence, oven dried fabrics are kept in a sealed desiccator with silica gel until the fabrics surface temperature become equilibrium. Moreover, the air permeability is thereby measured by an SDL instrument at a pressure of 25 Pa using a head area of 1 cm2. Thermal conductivity (k) is studied using a KES-F Thermo Labo. Water vapor transmission rate (WVTR) of the fabrics is conducted according to ASTM E96-80B. The test is done under different environmental temperatures (20, 25, 30, 35 and 40° C.) at constant humidity of 80% RH and different relative humidity values (20, 40, 60 and 80%) at constant temperature of 25° C.
[0065] For measuring radiative heat loss, oven dried and 100% of water absorption ae considered. Thermal images are obtained for IR characterization using an IR camera (FLIR A655sc). Briefly, in order to provide uniform thermal radiation and mimic the human body temperature, a chamber with a guard hot plate with a constant temperature of 300C is used and the thermal camera is placed in an air space with a constant angle and distance from the hot plate. Finally, when the specimen is placed on the hot plate, pictures are taken every 5 seconds until the heat transfer reaches equilibrium. Temperature of the surface is calculated using FLIR Tools software in which each pixel of the picture is allocated to one temperature value. The average is subsequently created based on all values. Furthermore, to obtain a numerical value of IR transmission % through the fabric in dry and wet states, an ATR-FTIR spectroscopy (The Bruker Veertex-70) is used.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0066] In the following description, the animal fiber, fabric, textile and methods for preparing thereof and the likes are set forth as preferred examples. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that modifications, including additions and/or substitutions may be made without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention. Specific details may be omitted so as not to obscure the invention; however, the disclosure is written to enable one skilled in the art to practice the teachings herein without undue experimentation.
[0067] It should be apparent to practitioner skilled in the art that the foregoing examples of the system and method are only for the purposes of illustration of working principle of the present invention. It is not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise forms disclosed.
[0068] Example 1—Preparation of raw wool fiber with water-responsive shape memory effect:
[0069] The scaled raw fibers are treated in an ultrasonic bath (35 KHz, 40 W) containing sodium hypochlorite (5 g/l), hydrochloric acid (1 g/l), and nano-calcium carbonate (10 g/l) at 37° C. for 45 min. When the fiber is exposed to water and air, it can show shape memory effect with over 90% shape fixity and recovery ratio (
[0070] Example 2—Water-responsive shape memory effect of double-stranded yarn:
[0071] In this example, the wool fibers from which the surface and scales have been removed are spun by combing and ring spinning, with a twist of 280 twists per meter. The two single yarns obtained are combined with a twist of 500 twists per meter. The resulting double-stranded yarn is steam treated for 30 minutes to obtain a yarn with water-responsive shape memory effect. When the yarn is exposed to water, the length increases by about 20%, and the thickness decreases by about 40% (
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[0073] Using the equation (1), the curvature κ and the torsion τ of the fiber in the single yarn are respectively expressed in equations (2) and (3), as follows:
[0074] Substituting equations (1) into equation (2) and equation (3), equations (4) and (5) are obtained as follows:
[0075] By rearranging the equations (4) and (5), the corresponding yarn radius and length can be determined by:
[0076] Based on the ideal packing form of yarns, the diameter d.sub.sy of the single yarn can be expressed as:
d.sub.sy=2.Math.max{r.sub.f}=2.Math.max{Aκ} (8)
[0077] On the basis of the analysis, it can be seen from equations (7) and (8) that the length L.sub.sy and diameter d.sub.sy of single yarns are determined by the curvature and torsion of fibers. Physically, the diameter of single yarns reduces when the fibers straighten after wetting; while the length of single yarns increases with the extending of fibers along the axial direction of the yarn when they are in wet state.
[0078] Example 3—Shape memory wool fabric with knit pore actuation function and other thermoregulation-related properties:
[0079] The double-stranded wool yarn with water-responsive shape memory effect from Example 2 is fabricated on an automatic flat knitting machine with twelve needles per inch, and according to the knitting pattern as shown in
L.sub.sy.sup.2=L.sub.py.sup.2+(2πr.sub.sy).sup.2 (9)
[0080] Differential equation (9) by L.sub.sy, equation (10) is obtained:
[0081] Assuming the strain of length of the single yarn as ε.sub.isy; the strain of diameter of single yarn as ε.sub.rsy; and the strain of length of plied yarn as ε.sub.ipy:
[0082] Based on equation (12), the length of the plied yarn changes with the length of each single yarn. For example, the length of plied yarn increases when the diameter of single yarn decreases.
[0083] The loop distance of the adjacent knitted loops along wale and course directions can be respectively derived from equations (13) and (14), respectively:
[0084] wherein l.sub.arc denotes the length of arc in the loop as shown in
[0085] From equation (13), the loop distance in wale direction of the knitted fabric becomes large when the length of loop increases and the diameter of plied yarns decrease. It can be also induced that the dimension changes of wale direction are larger than those of course direction with an increasing l.sub.arc and decreasing r.sub.py by comparing the equations (13) and equation (14), which is consistent with the corresponding measurements described herein.
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[0087] Porosity of the knitted fabrics can be expressed as:
[0088] wherein l.sub.loop denotes the length of a whole knitted loop in a unit.
[0089] Assuming the t≈2.5d=5r.sub.py and l.sub.loop≈8R+4r.sub.py for similarity:
[0090] wherein δ denotes the linear modulus of stitch for knitted fabrics, which expresses the density of knitted fabrics.
[0091] Physically, it can be seen from equation (16) that the porosity of knitted fabric becomes big with increasing the loop length and reducing the diameter of plied yarn. It can also be seen that when the loop length increases and the diameter of the plied yarn decreases, the linear stitch modulus of the knitted fabric becomes larger, representing a loose structure. These explain why air permeability and thermal conductivity increase with the increase of the porosity of the knitted fabric, evidenced by the results shown in
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[0095] Overall, the knitwear exerts higher water vapor transmission rate at higher water absorption under different temperatures; the water vapor transmission rate also increases with an increase in water gradient at different levels of relative humidity, but at higher relative humidity the transmission rate is lower than that measured at lower relative humidity. The maximum water vapor transmission efficiency of the knitwear is to be at higher temperature and lower humidity. From these results, the present invention is shown to have high potential to be developed into an all-condition water-responsive textile such as woolen knitwear as in the examples described herein.
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[0098] The foregoing description of the present invention has been provided for the purposes of illustration and description. It is not intended to be exhaustive or to limit the invention to the precise forms disclosed. Many modifications and variations will be apparent to the practitioner skilled in the art.
[0099] The embodiments were chosen and described in order to best explain the principles of the invention and its practical application, thereby enabling others skilled in the art to understand the invention for various embodiments and with various modifications that are suited to the particular use contemplated.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
[0100] The present invention has a potential to be applied and developed into a garment textile with dynamic pore openings and adaptive air trap-ability that can provide thermoregulation. The water gradient pore actuation ability of the knitwear due to shape memory effect, opens up the new horizon for rediscovering woolen apparel as potential personal thermal management textiles. Hence, by using the present method to prepare wool fabrics, sustainable thermoregulatory textiles including socks and different parts of a garment can be fabricated.