Cosmetic composition showing a natural and a healthy-looking appearance

Abstract

This invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microcapsule comprising at least: —a core, —a first laminated coating surrounding said core comprising at least 45% by weight of the total weight, of a microcapsule of multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide, and —a second laminated coating surrounding said first coating, comprising between 10 and 40% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of a microcapsule, said multilayer interference particles being released from said microcapsule(s) only when said composition is applied on a keratin material such as keratin fibers or the skin.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one microcapsule comprising at least: a core, a first laminated coating surrounding said core comprising at least 45% by weight of the total weight, of a microcapsule of multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide, and a second laminated coating surrounding said first coating, comprising between 10% and 40% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of a microcapsule, said multilayer interference particles being released from said at least one microcapsule only when said composition is applied on a keratin material, wherein the ratio by weight between the total quantity of the at least one iron oxide and the total quantity of titanium dioxide present in the microcapsules is between 0.25 and 0.85 and wherein the ratio by weight between the total quantity of multilayer interference particles and the total quantity of pigments present in the microcapsules is equal to at least 0.50, wherein the composition contains at least one fatty phase and/or at least one surfactant.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide are nacres.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, comprising between 0.1% and 20% by weight of microcapsules relative to the total weight of said composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, in which the core is organic and comprises at least one monosaccharide or its derivatives.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising between 0.1% and 20% by weight of microcapsules relative to the total weight of said composition.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, comprising between 0.1% and 5% by weight of multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, in which the core is organic and comprises at least one monosaccharide or its derivatives.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, comprising between 0.1% and 5% by weight of multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide relative to the total weight of said composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the core is organic and comprises at least one monosaccharide or its derivatives.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 9, comprising between 0.1% and 5% by weight of multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide relative to the total weight of said composition.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising between 0.1% and 5% by weight of multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide are nacres present in the first laminated coating, in an amount of at least 47% by weight relative to the total weight of a microcapsule.

13. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the quantity of titanium dioxide in the second laminated coating is less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of a microcapsule.

14. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the second laminated coating comprises metal oxides.

15. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14, in which the quantity of metal oxides present is between 1% and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of a microcapsule.

16. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the multilayer interference particles comprising at least one iron oxide comprise at least one other metal oxide.

17. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the ratio by weight between the total quantity of the at least one iron oxide and the total quantity of titanium dioxide present in the microcapsules is between 0.28 and 0.80.

18. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which the ratio by weight between the total quantity of multilayer interference particles and the total quantity of pigments present in the microcapsules is equal to at least 0.60.

19. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, in which said composition is in the form of an aqueous lotion or gel type dispersion, emulsion with liquid to semi-solid consistency obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O) or an emulsified cream or gel type liquid to semi-solid suspension.

20. A method of conferring a homogeneous appearance and a pinkish tone on skin, while preserving the natural appearance of the skin, comprising applying at least one layer of a composition as defined in claim 1 on the surface of the target skin.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparations of Microcapsules

(1) I. Microcapsules

(2) Different examples of the preparation of microcapsules according to the invention are described below to illustrate the invention.

(3) The following particles are used in the examples: red iron oxide particles (Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-8001), titanium dioxide particles (HOMBITAN FF-PHARMA), different fluorphlogopite particles coated with a mix of titanium dioxide, tin oxide and iron oxide (Syncrystal® Almond from Eckart), and mica particles coated with titanium dioxide (Timica® Terra White MN4501 from BASF).

Examples 1a to 1f

(4) Microcapsules according to the invention (1a, 1 b and 1e) and comparative microcapsules (1c, 1d, 1f and 1g) are prepared using the following method: a) preparation of an aqueous solution containing water, starch and a polyvinyl alcohol (binder), b) the dispersion of multilayer interference particles (i.e. in this case Syncrystal® Almond or Timica® Terra White MN4501 for comparative microcapsules 1c) in the aqueous solution obtained in a), c) formation of an internal layer (i.e. the first laminated coating) on the mannitol core with the aqueous solution obtained in b), d) formation of an intermediate layer (i.e. the second laminated coating) on the internal layer obtained in c) with a solution of titanium dioxide (HOMBITAN FF-PHARMA or present in Timica® Terra White MN4501 nacres for microcapsules according to the invention 1e) containing water, starch, hydrogenated lecithin and possibly red iron oxides and polyvinyl alcohol, and e) formation of an external layer on the intermediate layer obtained in d) with an aqueous starch solution possibly containing hydrogenated lecithin.

(5) The following microcapsules are thus obtained:

(6) TABLE-US-00002 1b 1a 1e According According According to the to the to the invention 1f 1d 1g invention invention White to White White White 1c Pink Pink Description red to red to red to red White to red to red Composition Intermediate Red — — — — — 3 3 layer iron oxide (second Titanium 28 55 65 25 28 25 — laminated dioxide coating) (HOMBITAN FF- PHARMA) White nacre — — — 40 — — 25 (Timica ® Terra White MN4501) Internal Red 51 23 18 20 — 52 52 layer nacre (first (Syncrystal ® laminated Almond) coating) White — — — — 51 — — nacre (Timica ® Terra White MN4501) Core Mannitol 15 18 14 8 15 15 15 Binder — QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP Ratio — — 0.30 0.08 0.05 0.09 0.00 0.43 0.76 X* Ratio — — 0.65 0.29 0.22 0.70 0.65 0.65 0.96 Y* *as indicated in the description above

(7) The microcapsules according to comparative examples 1f and 1g above are prepared as described in the above methods.

Example 2: Preparation of Microcapsules Containing Syncrystal® Almond Using a Fluidized Bed Method

(8) The coating of the internal layer is applied using a bottom spray system. Firstly, the Pearlitol 100SD basic material (mannitol) is added to the system (step No. 1). The 1st coating solution contains Syncrystal® Almond, Structure XL (starch) and PVA S205 (polyvinyl alcohol) particles (steps No. 2-3). Firstly, a 5% solution of PVA S205 was prepared from 0.83% of solid PVA S205 by adding 5% by weight of 0.83% of solid PVA to 95% of stirred hot water. For better dispersion, Syncrystal® Almond and Structure XL particles were added to the water purified above and homogenized. The 5% solution of PVA prepared above was added to the homogenized solution and thoroughly mixed. The solution of the first prepared laminated coating was loaded into the machine before being sprayed on floating Pearlitol 100SD through the nozzle fixed to the bottom of the machine. The second laminated coating was also made using a bottom spray system. The capsules with the color of the internal core coated with 52.05% of Syncrystal® Almond particles by the first coating were sorted and selected before being loaded into the machine at a ratio of 70% weight/weight of the final composition. The solution of the second laminated coating contains HOMBITAN FF-PHARMA, red iron oxide, Structure XL, PVA S205 and Lipoid P 75-3 (steps 5-9). Firstly, a 5% solution of PVA S205 is prepared from 0.26% of solid PVA S205 by adding a 5% quantity of 0.26% of solid PVA to 95% of stirred hot water. The remainder of the solution of the second laminated coating is prepared carefully mixing 200% by weight/weight of purified water, of HOMBITAN FF-PHARMA, red iron oxide, Structure XL (steps No. 5, 6, 7) and Lipoid P 75-3 (step No. 9). Dispersion is made more uniform by adding 10% by weight/weight of the solution of the second laminated coating of ethanol and it is well mixed using a homogenizer. The solution of the second laminated coating was loaded into the machine and sprayed on 70% of the colored internal core through the nozzle located at the bottom of the machine.

(9) The coating of the third layer (external layer) was applied immediately after the second laminated coating was coated without filtering or sorting. The binder (corn starch) (step No. 10) was prepared by mixing 0.1% by weight/weight of the entire composition of corn starch dispersed in purified water (1:1), then mixed with 20% by weight/weight of the total weight of the composition of purified hot water at 95° C. The external layer is intended to clear cloudiness in the final product and it is sprayed until after the end of the second coating.

(10) The coated particles finally obtained are pink pearls containing a magic capsule expressing an instantaneous pink pearly effect. The size of the particles is 75 to 300 μm with the following composition:

(11) TABLE-US-00003 Method Detail Step Raw material Composition INCI name Colored Core 1 Pearlitol 100SD 15.05% Mannitol internal First laminated 2 Syncrystal 52.05% Titanium dioxide/ core coating Almond diiron trioxide/tin dioxide/ synthetic fluorphlogopite 3 Structure XL 2.49% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 4 PVA S205 0.83% Polyvinyl alcohol Colored Second 5 HOMBITAN FF- 25.20% Titanium dioxide, external laminated PHARMA coating coating 6 Red Iron Oxide 2.80% Iron Oxides (CI 77491) 7 Structure XL 1.05% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 8 PVA S205 0.26% Polyvinyl alcohol 9 Lipoid P 75-3 0.17% Hydrogenated Lecithin External layer 10 Corn Starch 0.10% Zea Mays(corn) Binder Starch Total 100.00%

Example 3: Healthy-Looking Appearance Composition in the Form of an O/W Emulsion

(12) Compositions A to F below were prepared using techniques known to an expert in the subject.

(13) TABLE-US-00004 COMPOSITIONS A B According to the C D E F Phase INGREDIENTS invention comparative Aqueous WATER QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP QSP phase 100 100 100 100 100 100 GLYCERIN 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 PRESERVATIVE QS QS QS QS QS QS TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL- TAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 (SIMULGEL 600 sold by SEPPIC) Oily SORBITAN TRISTEARATE 1 1 1 1 1 1 phase PEG-40 DISTEARATE .sup.(4) 2 2 2 2 2 2 CETYL ALCOHOL 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 GLYCEROL STEARATE 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 ISOSTEARYL 5 5 5 5 5 5 NEOPENTANOATE HYDROGENATED 5 5 5 5 5 5 POLYISOBUTENE MINERAL OIL 4 4 4 4 4 4 DIMETHICONE 8 8 8 8 8 8 Microcapsules in example 2 — 1a Microcapsules in example 2 — 1b Syncrystal ® Almond — 1 (Eckart) Microcapsules in example — 2 1c Microcapsules in example — 2 1d

(14) For each composition A to F, cosmetic properties were evaluated using the following protocol. The cosmetic properties in application are evaluated in a monadic approach by a panel of experts trained in the description of care products. The sensorial evaluation of care products by this panel is made as follows: products are conditioned in opaque pots or pump bottles depending on the viscosity of the products. Samples within a particular session are presented in random order for each panelist.

(15) Comparative Evaluation of Cosmeticity/Sensorial Properties

(16) The 15 experts evaluated the following sensorial properties: The “slip” of the composition during application (that opposes the retarding effect of compositions that stick during application) The softness of the skin finish once the composition has been applied (that opposes the rough, brittle effect) Comfort. A comfortable product is defined as a product that does not pull, that does not dry the skin and that transports a care effect Moisturization, esthetic expert evaluation on face and eye dehydration lines.
Descriptors are evaluated on a scale of 5 levels: ++/+/0/−/−−
Evaluation of the Healthy-Looking Appearance

(17) Immediate esthetic evaluation of the composition according to the invention: Healthy glow: emphasize the color and/or add light and radiance, with becoming shiny. Natural effect: the match between the skin finish of the product and the color of the consumer's skin Covering effect: lack of homogeneity in application, problem of traces and lack of homogeneity after application
Descriptors are evaluated on a scale of 5 levels: ++/+/0/−/−−
On the different phenotypes: white color (phototype I), on intermediate color (phototype III) to mat color (phototype IV/V).

(18) The results are collected below:

(19) TABLE-US-00005 COMPO A COMPO B (invention) (invention) COMPO C COMPO D COMPO E COMPO F Sensorial Slip during application ++ ++ ++ − ++ ++ Aspects Softness of the skin ++ ++ ++ − ++ ++ finish Comfort ++ ++ ++ −− ++ ++ Sensorial properties OK OK OK Not OK OK OK Immediate Evaluation of the ++ ++ −− + −− 0 esthetic healthy-looking evaluation appearance on intermediate Natural effect ++ ++ −− + − + color (phototype III) Covering effect −− −− −− + − −− healthy-looking OK OK Not OK Not Not appearance OK OK OK
Conclusion:

(20) In general, the introduction of microcapsules according to the invention does not have any negative impact on the cosmeticity of the base.

(21) Compositions A and B according to the invention have the special feature that:

(22) They do not have a covering effect (homogeneity in application), They provide a very natural skin effect, regardless of the complexion/phototype of the skin on which the composition is applied, They do not introduce any negative effect on cosmeticity of the composition.

Example 4: Healthy-Looking Appearance Composition in the Form of a Gel

(23) TABLE-US-00006 COMPOSITION G COMPOSITION H INCI name (comparative) (invention) Water QSP QSP GLYCERIN 9 9 PRESERVATIVE QS QS PEG-20 1 1 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 2 2 PEG-8 1.1 1.1 BIS-PEG-18 METHYL ETHER 0.5 0.5 DIMETHYL SILANE CARBOMER 0.3 0.3 POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE 0.09 0.09 PEG-40 HYDROGENATED CASTOR 0.30 0.30 OIL Ethanol 3 3 Microcapsules according to example / 2 1a

(24) Procedure: Compositions G and H are classical gels for which the manufacturing method is known to an expert in the subject.

(25) The cosmeticity/sensorial properties of compositions G and H above are evaluated as described in example 3.

(26) In general, the introduction of microcapsules according to example 1a does not have any negative impact on the cosmeticity of the base. Compositions G and H are sensorially very similar. Composition H according to the invention during application has the same slip as formula G, and the skin finish is equally soft. No difference is found during the expert evaluation of the moisturizing effect of these two formulas: composition H according to the invention has good moisturizing properties (face and eye contour).

(27) Evaluation of the Healthy-Looking Appearance of Formula H According to the Invention

(28) TABLE-US-00007 Evaluation of the healthy-looking Natural appearance effect Covering effect On white color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) Enhanced skin color + Good homogeneity added radiance in application On intermediate color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) Enhanced skin color + Good homogeneity added radiance in application On matte color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) provides radiance, light, Good homogeneity without shiny effect in application

(29) In summary: composition H according to the invention is specific in that: it does not have a covering effect (homogeneity in application), it provides a very natural effect, regardless of the complexion/phenotype of the skin on which the product is applied, it has no negative effect on the cosmeticity of the base.

(30) Furthermore, composition H has an esthetic benefit due to the presence of colored balls.

Example 5: Healthy-Looking Appearance Composition in the Form of an O/W Emulsion

(31) TABLE-US-00008 Composition I Composition J OUTSIDE ACCORDING TO Phase INGREDIENTS INVENTION THE INVENTION Aqueous WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 phase GLYCERIN 9 9 PRESERVATIVE QS QS DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE 1 1 (HOSTACERIN AMPS sold by CLARIANT) Aqueous POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) C13-14 ISOPARAFFIN 0.9 0.9 phase (and) LAURETH-7 (SEPIGEL 305 sold by SEPPIC) Oily CETYL ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 phase PEG-100 STEARATE (MYRJ S100-PA-(SG) sold by 0.20 0.20 CRODA) ISOHEXADECANE 3 3 DISODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.30 0.30 CETEARYLIC ALCOHOL (and) CETEARYL 0.60 0.60 GLUCOSIDE STEARIC ACID 0.6 0.6 BEHENYLIC ALCOHOL 1.65 1.65 SQUALANE 1 1 MINERAL OIL 1 1 ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 4.5 4.5 DIMETHICONE 2 2 Microcapsules according to example 1a / 2

(32) The compositions were prepared using techniques known to an expert in the subject. Cosmetic properties were evaluated for each of the compositions I and J using the protocol described in example 3 above.

(33) The results are collected below.

(34) In general, the introduction of microcapsules according to the invention does not have any negative impact on the cosmeticity of the base, and cosmeticity/sensorial properties. Compositions I and J are sensorially very similar. Composition J according to the invention has the same slip during application as composition I that is not according to the invention, and the skin finish is equally soft. No difference is found during the expert evaluation of the moisturizing effect of these 2 formulas: composition J according to the invention has good moisturizing properties (face and eye contour).

(35) Evaluation of the Healthy-Looking Appearance of Composition J According to the Invention

(36) The healthy-looking appearance was evaluated according to the protocol presented above in example 3.

(37) The results are collected in the following table.

(38) TABLE-US-00009 Evaluation of the healthy- looking appearance Natural effect Covering effect On white color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) Enhanced skin color + Good homogeneity provides radiance in application On intermediate color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) Enhanced skin color + Good homogeneity provides radiance in application On matte color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) provides radiance, light, Good homogeneity without shiny effect in application

(39) In summary: composition J according to the invention is specific in that: It does not have a covering effect (homogeneity in application), It provides a very natural skin effect, regardless of the complexion/phototype of the skin on which the composition is applied, It does not introduce any negative impact on cosmeticity of the composition.

Example 6: Composition of the Healthy-Looking Appearance in the Form of an Inverse (W/O) Emulsion

(40) TABLE-US-00010 Composition K Composition L OUTSIDE ACCORDING TO Phase INGREDIENTS INVENTION THE INVENTION Aqueous WATER QSP 100 QSP 100 phase GLYCERIN 9 9 PRESERVATIVE QS QS SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.45 0.45 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 0.1 SODIUM ACRYLATESCOPOLYMER (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2.00 2.00 (LUVIGEL EM sold by BASF) Oily DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE/PEG- phase 10/15 CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-210 sold by 4.5 4.5 SHIN ETSU) DIMETHICONE(and) DIMETHICONE/POLYGLYCERIN-3 4 4 CROSSPOLYMER (KSG-710 sold by SHIN ETSU) ISOHEXADECANE 4 4 CYCLOHEXASILOXANE 2 2 DIMETHICONE 5 5 PEG-10 DIMETHICONE 1 1 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.65 0.65 Denatured DENATURED ALCOHOL 1.5 1.5 alcohol Microcapsules according to example 1b / 2

(41) The compositions were prepared using techniques known to an expert in the subject.

(42) Cosmetic properties were evaluated for each of the compositions K and L using the protocol described in example 3 above.

(43) The results are collected below.

(44) In general, the introduction of microcapsules according to the invention does not have any negative impact on the cosmeticity of the base and cosmeticity/sensorial properties. Compositions K and L are sensorially very similar. Composition L according to the invention has the same slip during application as formula K, and the skin finish is equally soft. No difference is found during the expert evaluation of the moisturizing effect of these 2 formulas: composition L according to the invention has good moisturizing properties (face and eye contour).

(45) Evaluation of the Healthy-Looking Appearance of Formula L According to the Invention

(46) TABLE-US-00011 Evaluation of the healthy- looking appearance Natural effect Covering effect On white color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) Enhanced skin color + Good homogeneity provides radiance in application On intermediate color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) Enhanced skin color + Good homogeneity provides radiance in application On matte color ++ ++ − − (phenotype etc.) provides radiance, light, Good homogeneity without shiny effect in application

(47) In summary: the composition according to the invention is specific in that: It does not have a covering effect (homogeneity in application), It provides a very natural skin effect, regardless of the complexion/phototype of the skin on which the composition is applied, It does not introduce any negative effect on the cosmeticity of the composition.

Example 7: Comparison Between a Composition According to the Invention and a Composition Comprising the Same Dyes but without a Microcapsule

(48) A formula according to the invention (M) is compared with a formula containing the same coloring materials in the same quantities, but without a microcapsule (formula N).

(49) The following compositions are prepared using techniques known to an expert in the subject.

(50) TABLE-US-00012 Composition N Phase INCI name Composition M (comparative) Aqueous WATER QSP QSP phase GLYCERIN 8.5 8.5 PRESERVATIVE QS QS TETRASODIUM EDTA 0.10 0.10 ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER 1.5 1.5 (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 Oily SORBITAN TRISTEARATE 1 1 phase PEG-40 DISTEARATE (4) 2 2 CETYL ALCOHOL 3.5 3.5 GLYCEROL STEARATE 2.8 2.8 ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE 5 5 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 5 5 MINERAL OIL 4 4 DIMETHICONE 8 8 Microcapsules according to example 1a 3 Red iron oxide (Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-  3%*0.03 = 0.09% 8001) Titanium dioxide (HOMBITAN FF-PHARMA), 25%*0.03 = 0.75% Red nacre (Syncrystal ® Almond from Eckart) 52%*0.03 = 1.56%

(51) Cosmetic properties were evaluated for each of the compositions M and N using the protocol described in example 3 above.

(52) The results are collected below.

(53) Comparative Evaluation of the Different Formulas

(54) TABLE-US-00013 Composition M Composition N ACCORDING TO OUTSIDE THE INVENTION INVENTION Sensorial Slip during application ++ − − Aspects Softness of the skin finish ++ − − Comfort ++ − − Immediate esthetic Evaluation of the healthy- ++ + + evaluation looking appearance on intermediate Natural effect ++ − color Covering effect −− 0 (phototype III)

(55) In summary: composition N slips less, is not as soft as and is less comfortable than composition M.

(56) Composition M according to the invention is specific in that: it does not have a covering effect (homogeneity in application), it has a very natural skin effect (in this case on phenotype 3), good cosmeticity of the product during application and after application (no drying effect, astringent agent that does not transport equally good moisturization).

(57) Composition N can induce non-homogeneities during application, making the skin finish only slightly homogeneous and not very natural.