PROCESS FOR PERMANENT WAVING KERATIN FIBERS

Abstract

Present invention relates to a process for permanent waving keratin fibers, especially human hair, for achieving durable waves wherein fibers are treated with a reducing composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing alkaline composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing acidic composition and finally an oxidizing composition wherein after processing the reducing composition the fibers are rinsed off.

Claims

1. A process for permanently waving keratin fibers, especially human hair, wherein, a—optionally, the fibers are washed and/or shampooed, and towel dried, b—an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agent is applied and left on the fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min, c—the fibers are rinsed off, d—the fibers are put on curlers, e—a non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprising one or more alkalizing agent and having a pH in the range of 7.5 to 12, is applied onto fibers and left on the fibers for a period 1 to 60 min, f—optionally the fibers are rinsed off, g—a non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition is applied onto fibers comprising one or more organic and/or inorganic acids and having a pH in the range of 2 to 6.5 and optionally left on the hair for a period 1 to 60 min, h—optionally the fibers are rinsed off, i—an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, hydrogen peroxide or bromate salt, is applied onto fibers and left on the fibers for a period 1 to 30 min, j—the fibers are optionally rinsed off, and k—the fibers are dried, wherein the curlers are taken off from fibers before or during processing in step i or after the step i prior to rinsing of and/or drying, wherein, the process as a whole is carried out at ambient temperature without using any heat and/or heating device.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the fibers are covered, with a foil or towel, during the period the aqueous compositions comprising reducing agents, alkalizing agents and acids are left on the fibers.

3. The process according to claim 1, wherein one or more reducing agents are selected from sulfite and/or hydrogen sulfite salts, thiogylcolic acid and/or its salts, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, and their mixtures.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein the total concentration of the reducing agents in the aqueous composition of step b is in the range of 0.5 to 20%, by weight, calculated to the total of the aqueous composition.

5. The process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous composition of step b has a pH in the range of 3 to 12.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the composition in step e comprises alkalizing agent at an ammonia equivalent concentration of 0.1 to 15% by weight calculated to the total of the composition as ammonia equivalent determined by titration method.

7. The process according to claim 1, wherein the composition in step e comprises one or more alkalizing agents selected form alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia and its salts such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphates such as ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, diammonium sodium phosphate, ammonium sodium hydrogen phosphate or ammonium disodium phosphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate, ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammonium valerate, ammonium tartarate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate, ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate, guanidine and its salts such as guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine carbonate, guanidine bicarbonate, and an alkyl or alkanol amine according to the general structure ##STR00003## wherein R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are same or different H, from C.sub.1 to C.sub.4, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched alkyl, C.sub.1 to C.sub.4 hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C.sub.3 to C.sub.4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R.sub.1, R.sub.2, or R.sub.3 is different from H, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoethanol methylamine, monoethanoldimethylamine, di-ethanolmethylamine, monoethanolethylamine, monoethanoldiethylamine, diethanolethylamine, monoethanolpropylamine, monoethanoldipropylamine, diethanolpropylamine, monoethanolbutylamine, diethanolbutylamine and amino methyl propanol and their mixtures, preferably selected from ammonia, amino methyl propanol, monoethanolamine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, diethanolamine, thriethanolamine, and mixtures thereof.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein one or more organic acids are selected from citric acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid and their salts and one or more inorganic acids are selected from phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, carbonic acid and their respective salts.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein one or more organic and/or inorganic acids are comprised at total concentration of in the range of 0.1 to 20%, by weight, calculated to the total of the composition.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the 1:1, by weight, mixture of the compositions used in steps e and g is in the range of 4.5 to 8.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the pH of the composition in step i is in the range of 2 to 8, when hydrogen peroxide is comprised as oxidizing agent and in the range of 5 to 8 when bromate salt is comprised in the composition.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein hydrogen peroxide or bromate salt in the aqueous composition of step i comprised at a concentration in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight, calculated to the total of the aqueous composition.

13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the curler are being taken off from the fibers after rinsing off the aqueous composition of step i and prior to drying the fibers.

14. The process according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous compositions, all four, or one or two or three comprise a thickening agent, a thickening polymer or one or more surfactants selected from anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic ones.

15. Kit for keratin fibers, especially human hair, comprising the four compositions wherein the first composition is an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agents selected from sulfite and/or hydrogen sulfite salts, thiogylcolic acid and/or its salts, cysteamine and/or its salts, thioglycerin and/or its salts, glycerin esters of thioglycolic acid and/or its salts, thiolactic acid and/or its salts, cysteine or its derivatives and/or its salts, and their mixtures; the second composition is a non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprising one or more alkalizing agents selected form alkali hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia and its salts such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphates such as ammonium dihydrogen phosphate, diammonium hydrogen phosphate, diammonium sodium phosphate, ammonium sodium hydrogen phosphate or ammonium disodium phosphate, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate, ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammonium valerate, ammonium tartarate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate, ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate, guanidine and its salts such as guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine carbonate, guanidine bicarbonate, and an alkyl or alkanol amine according to the general structure wherein R1, R2, and R3 are same or different H, from C1 to C4, C3 to C4 unsaturated alkyl, C3 to C4 branched alkyl, C1 to C4 hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 unsaturated hydroxyl alkyl, C3 to C4 branched hydroxyl alkyl, with the condition that at least one of R1, R2, or R3 is different from H, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoethanol methylamine, monoethanoldimethylamine, di-ethanolmethylamine, monoethanolethylamine, monoethanoldiethylamine, diethanolethylamine, monoethanolpropylamine, monoethanoldipropylamine, diethanolpropylamine, monoethanolbutylamine, diethanolbutylamine and amino methyl propanol and their mixtures, preferably selected from ammonia, amino methyl propanol, monoethanolamine, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, diethanolamine, thriethanolamine, and mixtures thereof; the third composition is a non-reducing and non-oxidizing aqueous composition comprising one or more organic and/or inorganic acids selected from citric acid, succinic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, formic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid and their salts and one or more inorganic acids are selected from phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, carbonic acid and their respective salts; and the fourth composition is and an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, being hydrogen peroxide or a bromate salt.

Description

EXAMPLE 1

[0079]

TABLE-US-00001 Aqueous reducing composition % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate 10 Ammonium hydroxide 2 Water to 100

[0080] The pH of the above composition was adjusted to pH 8.5.

TABLE-US-00002 Aqueous alkaline composition % by weight Ammonium chloride 2 Ammonium hydroxide 4 Water to 100

[0081] The pH of the above composition was adjusted with sodium hydroxide to pH 10.0.

TABLE-US-00003 Aqueous acidic composition % by weight Lactic acid 8 Water to 100

[0082] The pH of the above composition was adjusted with sodium hydroxide to pH 3.5.

[0083] The 1 to 1, by weight, mixture of the aqueous alkaline and aqueous acidic compositions had a pH of approximately 6.0.

TABLE-US-00004 Aqueous oxidizing composition Hydrogen peroxide 3 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 3 Water to 100

[0084] A hair streak weighing approximately 5 g and having a length of 20 cm is permanently waved using the above compositions. Firstly, the streak was washed with a commercially available shampoo composition and towel dried. Afterwards, the streak was dipped into the aqueous reducing composition and left in the solution for 15 min and taken out and rinsed off with water. Afterwards, the streak was put on curlers with a diameter of 1.5 cm and dipped into the alkaline composition. After 10 min, the streak was taken out and without rinsing off, it was dipped into the aqueous acidic composition. After 10 min, the streak was taken out and rinsed off and dipped into the oxidizing composition for 15 min and the curlers were taken off. It was observed that the streak was well waved, felt soft and smooth upon touching.

EXAMPLE 2

[0085]

TABLE-US-00005 Aqueous reducing composition % by weight Ammonium thioglycolate 7 Ammonium bicarbonate 4 Phosphoric acid q.s. to pH 8.5 Water to 100

TABLE-US-00006 Aqueous alkaline composition % by weight Ammonium bicarbonate 4 Sodium hydroxide q.s. to pH 9.5 Water to 100

[0086] The pH of the above composition was adjusted to pH 9.5.

TABLE-US-00007 Aqueous acidic composition Citric acid 3 Lactic acid 3 Succinic acid 4 Water to 100

[0087] The pH of the above composition was adjusted to pH 3.5.

[0088] The 1 to 1, by weight, mixture of the aqueous alkaline and aqueous acidic compositions had a pH of approximately 5.5.

TABLE-US-00008 Aqueous oxidizing composition % by weight Sodium bromate 5 Water to 100

[0089] The pH of the above composition was adjusted with hydrochloric acid to pH 7.0.

[0090] Using the above compositions, two hair streaks as in example 1 were permanently waved comparatively to the process disclosed in non-published pending previous application.

[0091] The hair streaks were shampooed and towel dried and the first reducing agent was applied and left on the streaks for 20 min, Afterwards, the streaks were rinsed off with water. Both streaks were put onto curlers having a dimeter of 1.5 cm. Both streaks were soaked into the alkaline composition and left for 10 min. Subsequently, one of the streaks was rinsed off and soaked into the oxidizing composition and the other streak, without rinsing off, was first soaked into acidic composition and left for 10 min, rinsed off and afterwards soaked into the oxidizing composition. The streaks were left in oxidizing composition for 15 min and taken out and subsequently rinsed off with water and the curlers were taken off. The streaks were dried with a hair drier.

[0092] It was observed that the streak which was soaked into acidic composition additionally was waved much more effectively and also felt smoother and softer upon touching. The streaks were analyzed by a panel of 7 hair dressers for their waving appearance, softness and smoothness in a scale 1 to 5 wherein 1 is not good at all and 5 is being the best performance. The following results were obtained for the streaks treated according to the present invention and comparative process according to the previous pending non published application.

TABLE-US-00009 Inventive Comparative Wave appearance 4.06 3.63 Softness 4.31 3.50 Smoothness 4.19 3.56

[0093] From above results it is beyond any doubt that the process according to the process of the present invention delivers very much improved permanently waved hair. Since there is only one difference which is the treatment with an acidic composition, the improved results are clearly attributed to this step in the process.

[0094] The following compositions are used in the process of the present invention.

EXAMPLE 3

[0095]

TABLE-US-00010 Aqueous reducing composition % by weight Cetearyl alcohol 10 Oleyl alcohol 5 Thioglycolic acid 3.7 Ceteareth-20 1.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5 EDTA 0.5 Fragrance 0.5 Aminomethylpropanol q.s. to pH 8.5 Water to 100

TABLE-US-00011 Aqueous alkaline aerosol foam composition % by weight Ammonium hydroxide 5 Ammonium chloride 2 Monoethanolamine q.s. 9.8 Cetrimonium chloride 2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.5 Water to 100

[0096] The composition was filled in an aerosol can with 90% the above composition and 10% propane butane mixture as the propellant. The can was equipped with a foam dispensing actuator and head.

TABLE-US-00012 Aqueous acidic composition Citric acid 3 Lactic acid 4 Succinic acid 4 Sodium cocamphoacetate 0.1 Polyquaternium-6 0.1 Propylene glycol 2.1 Water to 100

[0097] The pH of the above composition was adjusted with sodium hydroxide to pH 3.5.

TABLE-US-00013 Aqueous oxidizing composition % by weight Cetearyl alcohol 5 Behenrimonium chloride 2 Hydrogen peroxide 3 Phosphoric acid to pH 3.0 Water to 100

[0098] The above composition was applied in the same way of the inventive process of the previous examples. The hair streak was shampooed and towel dried and the first reducing agent was applied and left on the streaks for 20 min, Afterwards, the streak was rinsed off with water and was put on curlers having a dimeter of 2.0 cm. The streak was applied the alkaline composition and left for 10 min. Subsequently, without rinsing off the streak it was applied the acidic composition and left for 10 min. Afterwards, the streak was rinsed off with water and was applied the oxidizing composition and after 15 min it rinsed off with water and the curlers were taken off. The streak was dried with a hair drier. It was observed that the streak was effectively and homogeneously curled and felt soft and smooth upon touching.