COMPOSITION COMPRISING A POLYSACCHARIDE, A POLYOL AND A SPECIFIC ESTER

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, particularly a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, at least one polyol, and at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, at least one ester of fatty acid and of polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns.

Claims

1. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, at least one polyol, and at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, at least one ester of fatty acid and of polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol patterns.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide has a rhamnose content varying from 10% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of polysaccharide.

3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the repetitive elements that form the polysaccharide comprise at least components with general formula I:
(Rh;Rh;Rh*;U;O).sub.n  (I) wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, Rh* is a rhamnose molecule fixed in a branched manner, O is a molecule of a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar, U is a molecule of uronic acid and n is between 1 and 100.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the repetitive elements forming the polysaccharide are composed of the sequence with general formula II: ##STR00006## wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and the rhamnose branch onto the ose O consists of an osidic bond (1.fwdarw.2) or (1.fwdarw.3).

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the repetitive elements forming the polysaccharide are composed of the sequence with general formula III: ##STR00007## wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and rhamnose is branched onto the rhamnose by an osidic bond (1.fwdarw.3).

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide is a polymer with a branched structure, with molecular weight of the order of 50,000 daltons, and with a saccharidic sequence comprising three rhamnose molecules (I, III, VI), two galactose molecules (II, V) and one glucuronic acid molecule (IV), said sequence having the following detailed formula: ##STR00008##

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester of fatty acid and of glycerol comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns is polyglyceryl-5 laurate or polyglyceryl-6 laurate.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the ester of fatty acid and of polyglycerol is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is chosen from among glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives; and their mixtures.

10. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyol is present in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises at least one surfactant that is a fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester.

12. The composition according to claim 1, wherein it comprises an aqueous phase and/or an oily phase.

13. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one hydrophilic active agent.

14. A cosmetic method for cleansing keratin materials comprising the application of a composition according to claim 1 onto said keratin materials.

15. A cosmetic method for making the skin more supple, particularly the stratum corneum, comprising the application of a composition according to claim 1 onto the skin.

16. A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose, and at least at least one hydrophilic active agent.

17. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the repetitive elements that form the polysaccharide comprise at least components with general formula I:
(Rh;Rh;Rh*;U;O).sub.n  (I) wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, Rh* is a rhamnose molecule fixed in a branched manner, O is a molecule of a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar, U is a molecule of uronic acid and n is between 1 and 100.

18. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the repetitive elements forming the polysaccharide are composed of the sequence with general formula II: ##STR00009## wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and the rhamnose branch onto the ose O consists of an osidic bond (1.fwdarw.2) or (1.fwdarw.3).

19. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the repetitive elements forming the polysaccharide are composed of the sequence with general formula II: ##STR00010## wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and the rhamnose branch onto the ose O consists of an osidic bond (1.fwdarw.2) or (1.fwdarw.3).

20. The composition according to claim 2, wherein the repetitive elements forming the polysaccharide are composed of the sequence with general formula III: ##STR00011## wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, O is a hexosidic or pentosidic sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and rhamnose is branched onto the rhamnose by an osidic bond (1.fwdarw.3).

Description

EXAMPLE 1: PREPARATION OF A COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (F5) AND COMPARATIVE COMPOSITIONS (F1 TO F4)

[0130] The following compositions F1 to F5 were prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the following table, using the protocol described below:

The ingredients of phase B are mixed and heated to 80° C.;
The ingredients of phase A are mixed and heated to 80° C.;
Under Rayneri stirring, phase B is poured slowly into phase A;
Phase C is added at about 50° C.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 F5 Ingredients Phase F1* F2* F3* F4* (invention) Water A Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 Preservative A Qs Qs Qs Qs Qs Biosaccharide gum-2 A 5 5 (Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P by Solabia) (2.5% active material) Glycerol A 10 10 POLYGLYCERYL-5 B 5 5 LAURATE (SUNSOFT A-121E-C ® by Taiyo Kagaku) GLYCERYL STEARATE B 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 165 by Croda) PEG-40 STEARATE B 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 (Myrj 52 P by Croda) Cetyl alcohol B 1 1 1 1 1 Stearyl alcohol B 1 1 1 1 1 Hydrogenated B 6 6 6 6 6 polyisobutene Cyclohexasiloxane B 4 4 4 4 4 Sodium hydroxide C 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 CARBOMER C 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 (CARBOPOL 980 POLYMER by Lubrizol 98% CARBOXYVINYLIC POLYMER)
Compositions F1 to F4 are comparative (marked by a star).
Composition F5 is according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 2: IN VITRO MEASUREMENT OF THE MECHANICAL EFFECT OF A COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (F5) AND COMPARATIVE COMPOSITIONS (F1 TO F4)

[0131] The compositions F1 to F5 in example 1 are tested for their mechanical properties by elasticimetry, as follows:

[0132] A DMA (Dynamic Mechanical Analysis) apparatus sold under reference ElectraForce® 3100 by Bose was used.

[0133] This technique was used to study viscoelastic properties of the stratum corneum. The material was loaded sinusoidally and its deformation was measured. The storage modulus (E′) of the stratum corneum can then be determined, that characterizes it mechanically.

[0134] This magnitude is directly related to the elastic properties of the stratum corneum.

[0135] The impact of formulas F1 to F5 on this storage modulus were studied.

Preparation of Samples and Protocol:

[0136] The area of the stratum corneum sample to be tested is 2 cm.sup.2 (1 cm×2 cm). The samples were previously conditioned at 75% relative humidity for at least 12 hours, and the measurement was also made at 75% relative humidity.

[0137] 10 μl/cm.sup.2 of each formula to be tested was deposited on the stratum corneum sample. Each formula was spread on the stratum corneum so as to cover the entire surface.

[0138] The dynamic load amplitude was adjusted to 40 μm, which correspond to a deformation in the elastic range of the stratum corneum (0.2% deformation). Each sample was loaded at a frequency of 1 Hz, along its longest length. Stratum corneum from at least two different donors was used.

[0139] For each formula evaluated, the variation of the elastic modulus measured with each treated sample was calculated, during the first two hours of treatment (E2 h), compared with that of an untreated sample at t=0 (E0):

ΔE=(E2h−E0)/E0

[0140] The following results were obtained:

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 F5 Ingredients F1* F2* F3* F4* (invention) average loss % 47.17 53.53 49.32 29.12 78.12  Standard 11.80 20.86 13.96 13.42 7.53  deviation T test 0.001 versus (p < 0.05) formula F1 T test 0.026 versus (p < 0.05) formula F2 T test 0.011 versus (p < 0.05) formula F3 T test 0.000 versus (p < 0.05) formula F4

[0141] In conclusion, it is found that the mechanical effect is provided by the association of PG-5 laurate, glycerin and polysaccharide.

EXAMPLE 3: IN VIVO COMPARISON OF THE COMPOSITION ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (F5) WITH COMPARATIVE COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING OTHER POLYSACCHARIDES (F6 TO F7)

[0142] Composition F5 in example 1 is compared with the following comparative formulations F6 to F7 (see table below; the comparative formulas are marked by a star). The formula preparation protocol is identical to that described in example 1.

[0143] In particular, the comparative formula F6 comprises Glycofilm 1.5P that is a polysaccharide rich in fucose, glucose and glucorinic acid.

[0144] The comparative formula F7 comprises Fucogel 1.5P that is a polysaccharide rich in fucose (i.e. 20%).

[0145] These formulas are prepared then analyzed in vivo with the Torquemeter as follows:

[0146] The Torquemeter® is a non-invasive device. The measurement head of the DTM is composed of a 20 mm diameter mobile central disk and a fixed circular plate. This device is placed on the skin through a fixed concentric double-sided adhesive tape. The angle of rotation of the central disk is measured by an angular sensor with a very high resolution. During application of the measurement head, the central disk pivots. A torsion load equal to an angle Ue is then applied to the skin area between the mobile central disk and the fixed peripheral ring (fast deformation). The rotation angle then continues to rise at a lower speed by an angle Uv.

[0147] After removing the torsion torque, the skin returns to its initial state in two steps, fast (deformation Ur) and slow back to the origin.

[0148] The precise measurement zones are identified using a circular-shaped mask. The measured parameters are (Ue, Uv, Ur).

[0149] The results are also given in the following table.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 F5 Phase Ingredients F6* F7* (invention) A Water Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 A Preservative Qs Qs Qs A Biosaccharide gum-2 5 (Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P by (0.125**) Solabia) (2.5% active material) A BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-4 12.5 (1.2% active material) (0.15**) (GLYCOFILM 1.5P by Solabia) A BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 11.36 (1.1% active material) (0.125**) (FUCOGEL 1.5P by Solabia) A Glycerin 10 10 10 B POLYGLYCERYL-5 5 5 5 LAURATE (SUNSOFT A-121E-C ® by Taiyo Kagaku) B GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.5 2.5 2.5 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 165 by Croda) B PEG-40 STEARATE 2.5 2.5 2.5 (Myrj 52 P by Croda) B Cetyl alcohol 1 1 1 B Stearyl alcohol 1 1 1 B Hydrogenated 6 6 6 polyisobutene B CYCLOHEXASILOXANE 4 4 4 C SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.07 0.07 0.07 C CARBOMER 0.25 0.25 0.25 DTM (approximate values) 0.5 0.45 0.95 1h Delta Ur DTM (approximate values) 0.32 0.4 0.87 1h Delta Uv Ratio Ur/Uv 1.56 1.13 1.09 **quantity of active material

[0150] The results show that only the polysaccharide comprising rhamnose according to the invention (biosaccharide gum-2), associated with polyglyceryl-5 laurate and glycerin, is significantly effective to make the stratum corneum more supple.

EXAMPLE 4: IN VIVO TESTS WITH TWO COMPOSITIONS ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION (F5 AND F8) AND COMPARISON OF THE STABILITY OF COMPARATIVE FORMULAS (F9 TO F13)

[0151] 1/Composition F5 in example 1 is tested as composition F8 according to the invention (see table below). The formula preparation protocol is identical to that described in example 1.

[0152] In particular, the formula according to the invention F8 comprises PG6-laurate instead of PG5-laurate.

[0153] These formulas are prepared then analyzed in vivo with the Torquemeter as described in example 3

[0154] The results are also given in the following table.

TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 F5 F8 Phase Ingredients (invention) (invention) A Water Qs 100 Qs 100 A Preservative Qs Qs A Biosaccharide gum-2 5 5 (Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P by Solabia) (2.5% active material) A Glycerol 10 10 B POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE 5 (SUNSOFT A-121E-C ® by Taiyo Kagaku) B POLYGLYCERYL-6 LAURATE 5 (Dermofeel G6L by Dr Straetmans) B GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.5 2.5 (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 165 by Croda) B PEG-40 STEARATE 2.5 2.5 (Myrj 52 P by Croda) B Cetyl alcohol 1 1 B Stearyl alcohol 1 1 B Hydrogenated polyisobutene 6 6 B CYCLOHEXASILOXANE 4 4 C CARBOMER 0.25 0.25 C SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.07 0.07 DIM (approximate values) 0.95 0.65 1 Delta Ur DIM (approximate values) 0.87 0.6 1h Delta Uv Ratio Ur/Uv 1.09 1.08

[0155] The results show that the DTM values obtained with formula F8 are also higher as for formula F5.

[0156] In conclusion, the increased suppleness effect obtained with PG5-laurate (F5) can also be obtained with PG6-laurate (F8).

[0157] 2/Comparative formulas: the following comparative formulas F9 to 13 were prepared as described in example 1.

[0158] Their composition is given in Tables 5 and 6 below.

TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 F9 F10 F11 Ingredient (comparative) (comparative) (comparative) Biosaccharide gum-2 5 5 5 (Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P by Solabia) (2.5% active material) AMORPHOUS SILICA 3 3 3 MICROSPHERES (5 μm) SPHERICAL 4.7 4.7 4.7 CELLULOSE BALLS (SIZE 4-7 μM) Preservative Qs Qs Qs ISONONYL 18.54 18.54 18.54 ISONONANOATE DIPENTAERYTHRITYL 2.85 2.85 2.85 PENTAISONONANOATE SODIUM 0.4 0.4 0.4 ACRYLAMIDO-2- METHYL PROPANE SULFONATE/ HYDROXYETHYL- ACRYLATE COPOLYMER IN POWDER FORM (Sepinov EMT 100 by Seppic) AMPS/ETHOXYLATED 0.7 0.7 0.7 STEARYL METHACRYLATE (25 EO) COPOLYMER CROSS-LINKED BY TRIMETHYLOL- PROPANE TRIACRYLATE (TMPTA) (Aristoflex HMS by Clariant) Ethanol 3 3 3 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100 Qs 100 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 GLYCERYL 1 1 1 STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 165 by Croda) PEG-40 STEARATE 1 1 1 (Myrj 52 P by Croda) PG-10 laurate 5 2.5 1 (DECAGLYCERYL MONOLAURATE) (DERMOFEEL G 10 L by Dr Straetmans)

[0159] For these formulas comprising 1%, 2.5% or 5% by weight of PG-10 laurate (F11, F10 and

[0160] F9 respectively), a reduction in the stability and slip on application are observed. Thus, PG-10 laurate does not confer the same effects as the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns according to the invention.

TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 F12 F13 (compar- (compar- Ingredient ative) ative) Biosaccharide gum-2 5 5 (Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P by Solabia) (2.5% active material) AMORPHOUS SILICA 3 3 MICROSPHERES (5 μm) SPHERICAL CELLULOSE BALLS 4.7 4.7 (SIZE 4-7 μM) Preservative Qs Qs ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 18.54 18.54 DIPENTAERYTHRITYL 2.85 2.85 PENTAISONONANOATE SODIUM ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL 0.4 0.4 PROPANE SULFONATE/ HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER IN POWDER FORM (Sepinov EMT 100 by Seppic) AMPS/ETHOXYLATED STEARYL 0.7 0.7 METHACRYLATE (25 EO) COPOLYMER CROSS-LINKED BY TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIACRYLATE (TMPTA) (Aristoflex HMS by Clariant) Ethanol 3 3 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100 GLYCERIN 10 10 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 1 1 STEARATE (Arlacel 165 by Croda) PEG-40 STEARATE 1 1 (Myrj 52 P by Croda) POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURATE 5 2.5 (TEGO CARE PL 4 by Evonik)

[0161] The formulas cannot be produced using PG-4 laurate: the incorporation of 2.5% or 5% by weight of PG-4 laurate, as in comparative formulas F12 and F13, leads to sedimentation and salting out: the formulas cannot be made.

[0162] Thus, PG-4 laurate does not confer the same effects as the ester of fatty acid and of polyglycerol comprising 5 to 9 glycerol patterns according to the invention.

EXAMPLE 5: FORMULA ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

[0163] The following formula according to the invention comprising a hydrophilic active agent is prepared.

TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Formula Ingredient (invention) Biosaccharide gum-2 7.5 (Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P by Solabia) (2.5% active material) AMORPHOUS SILICA 3 MICROSPHERES (5 μm) SPHERICAL CELLULOSE BALLS 4.7 (SIZE 4-7 μM) Preservative Qs ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 18.54 DIPENTAERYTHRITYL 2.85 PENTAISONONANOATE SODIUM ACRYLAMIDO-2-METHYL 0.4 PROPANE SULFONATE/ HYDROXYETHYLACRYLATE COPOLYMER IN POWDER FORM (Sepinov EMT 100 by Seppic) AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL- 0.7 TAURATE/STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER (Aristoflex HMS by Clariant) Ethanol 3 WATER Qs 100 GLYCERIN 10 GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) 1 PEG-100 STEARATE (Arlacel 165 by Croda) PEG-40 STEARATE 1 (Myrj 52 P by Croda) POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE 5 (SUNSOFT A-121E-C ® by Taiyo Kagaku) Sodium hyaluronate 0.5 Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol 8.7 (MEXORYL SCN ® of CHIMEX (=3.045% active (35% active material) material)