PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITIONS AND METHODS FOR USING SUCH COMPOSITIONS

Abstract

The present invention relates to sulfate-free aqueous personal care composition comprising a surfactant system comprising at least one methyl oleoyl taurate, one isethionate and one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant chosen from (1) amphoacetates and diamphoacetates, (2) sultaines and (3) alkylbetaines, and from about 0.2 pbw to about 15 pbw of a conditioning agent. It is also directed toward the use of such a composition for washing keratin substrates, in particular the hair or the scalp.

Claims

1. A sulfate-free aqueous personal care composition comprising: i) from about 2 pbw to about 20 pbw of a surfactant system comprising at least: a) one methyl oleoyl taurate of formula R.sup.aCON(CH.sub.3)CH.sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3X.sup.a, in which R.sup.a is the hydrocarbon radical of oleic acid and X.sup.a is a counterion, b) one isethionate of formula R.sup.bCOOCH.sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3X.sup.b, in which R.sup.b is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and X.sup.b is a counterion, and c) one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant selected from (1) amphoacetates and diamphoacetates, (2) sultaines and (3) alkylbetaines, and ii) from about 0.2 pbw to about 15 pbw of a conditioning agent.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the isethionate (b) is of formula R.sup.bCOOCH.sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3X.sup.b, with R.sup.b being an unsubstituted alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is one amphoacetate of formula: ##STR00007## wherein R is an aliphatic group of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and M is a cation.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is one diamphoacetate of formula: ##STR00008## wherein R is an aliphatic group of 8 to 22 carbon atoms and M is a cation.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is one sultaine of formula: ##STR00009## wherein m is 2 or 3, or variants of these in which —(CH.sub.2).sub.3SO.sub.3.sup.− is replaced by: ##STR00010## wherein R.sup.1 is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) is one alkylbetaine of formula: ##STR00011## wherein R.sup.1 is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, and R.sup.2 and R.sup.3 are each independently alkyl, hydroxyalkyl or carboxyalkyl of 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) to methyl oleoyl taurate (a) is greater than or equal to 1, based on the weight percent of each surfactant in the final composition.

8. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (c) to isethionate (b) is greater than or equal to 1, based on the weight percent of each surfactant in the final composition.

9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition further comprises one sulfosuccinate.

10. The composition of claim 9, wherein said sulfosuccinate is a monoalkyl sulfosuccinate of formula R.sup.cO.sub.2CCH.sub.2CH(SO.sub.3X.sup.c)CO.sub.2X.sup.c, an amido-MEA sulfosuccinate of formula R.sup.cCONHCH.sub.2CH.sub.2O.sub.2CCH.sub.2CH(SO.sub.3X.sup.c)CO.sub.2X.sup.c, an amido-MIPA sulfosuccinate of formula R.sup.cCONH(CH.sub.2)CH(CH.sub.3)(SO.sub.3X.sup.c)CO.sub.2X.sup.c or an alkoxylated sulfosuccinate of formula R.sup.c—O—(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.nC(O)CH.sub.2CH(SO.sub.3X.sup.c)CO.sub.2X.sup.c, wherein n ranges from 1 to 20, R.sup.c is a substituted or unsubstituted alkyl, alkenyl, aryl or alkylaryl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and X.sup.c is a counterion.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the sulfosuccinate is an alkoxylated sulfosuccinate of formula R.sup.c—O—(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.nC(O)CH.sub.2CH(SO.sub.3X.sup.c)CO.sub.2X.sup.c, wherein n ranges from 2 to 20, R.sup.c is an unsubstituted alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and X.sup.c is a counterion.

12. The composition of claim 1, wherein the total amount of surfactants ranges from 5 to 15 pbw, relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the conditioning agent is a cationic or ampholytic conditioning agent.

14. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is a personal care cleansing composition.

15. A method comprising washing keratin substrates using the composition of claim 1.

16. The composition of claim 2, wherein the isethionate (b) is of formula R.sup.bCOOCH.sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3X.sup.b, with R.sup.b being an unsubstituted alkyl group having 7 to 24 carbon atoms.

17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the isethionate (b) is of formula R.sup.bCOOCH.sub.2CH.sub.2SO.sub.3X.sup.b, with R.sup.b being an unsubstituted alkyl group having 7 to 21 carbon atoms.

18. The composition of claim 3, wherein M is sodium, potassium, ammonium or substituted ammonium cation.

19. The composition of claim 11, wherein the sulfosuccinate is an alkoxylated sulfosuccinate of formula R.sup.c—O—(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.nC(O)CH.sub.2CH(SO.sub.3X.sup.c)CO.sub.2X.sup.c, wherein n ranges from 2 to 20, R.sup.c is an unsubstituted alkyl group having 7 to 24 carbon atoms and X.sup.c is a counterion.

20. The method of claim 15, wherein the keratin substrates are the hair or the scalp.

Description

EXAMPLES

[0150] The invention will now be described in further detail by way of the following non limiting examples, wherein the abbreviations have the usual meaning in the art. The temperatures are indicated in degrees centigrade (° C.) and the other parameters in the respective current units. Water amount indicated as “q.s.” are intended to be “the amount required to complete to 100%”.

Example 1

[0151] The following sulfate-free shampoo compositions were prepared.

[0152] The starting materials used are identified by the INCI names and/or by the commercial references. All ingredients are expressed by weight percent of the total formulation and as level of active ingredients.

TABLE-US-00001 Comparative Comparative Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation 1a 1a 1b 1b Mackanate ® EL 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) Mackam ® CBS-50G 4.0 4.0 — — (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultain) Miranol ® Ultra L32 — — 4.0 4.0 (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate) Pureact ® I-78C 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) Geropon ® T-77 — 1.8 — 1.8 (Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate) Geropon ® TC-42 LQ 1.8 — 1.8 — (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) Mackamide ® CPA 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (Cocamide MIPA) sodium chloride  1.63  1.63 1.3 1.3 Jaguar ® LS 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) Citric acid solution (50%) q.s q.s q.s q.s Kathon ® CG  0.05  0.05  0.05  0.05 (Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone) De-ionized water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 pH 5.4 5.4 6.0 6.0 Brookfield Viscosity @ 10 <500 Between <1,000 Between RPM, RV spindle 2,000 and 26,000 and 4 or 5 (mPa .Math. s) 5,000 29,000

[0153] Formulation Procedure

[0154] Add 24 parts of de-ionized water in a tared beaker A under continuous stirring and heat at 65° C. Add Mackamide® CPA and mix at 100 RPM. After 10 minutes, add Pureact®I-78C and let under stirring during 30 minutes. Stop heating and let the mixture under stirring until it comes back at 30° C. If necessary, compensate for water loss that has occurred during heating step. In another vessel, charge 26 parts of de-ionized water. Add Jaguar LS in the vessel and add a few drops of citric acid solution (50%) under stirring, until the solution becomes clear. Add Miranol® Ultra L32 (or Mackam® CBS-50G) under stirring, followed by Mackanate® EL. Add the pre-mix of beaker A into the main vessel under continuous stirring at 100 RPM during 10 minutes. Add Geropon® T-77 in the form of a 25 wt % dilution in water (or Geropon TC-42LQ) and stir during 10 minutes. Adjust pH between 5.0 and 6.0 with a 50% solution of citric acid, add Kathon®CG and add the required amount of sodium chloride under stirring. Add de-ionized water up to 100 parts.

[0155] Viscosity Measurement

[0156] The viscosity of each composition was measured after 24-hours in a temperature-controlled room (21±3° C.), using a Brookfield Viscosimeter Model DV-II+ at 10 RPM, with a RV spindle 4 or 5. The viscosity value was always taken after a stabilization time of 1 min.

[0157] Performances

[0158] Formulation 1a, which includes the particular combination of anionic surfactants together with a specific amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in accordance with the invention, is a cleansing composition displaying acceptable viscosity (above 1,500 cps) contrary to Comparative Formulation 1a.

[0159] Formulation 1b, which includes the particular combination of anionic surfactants together with a specific amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in accordance with the invention too, is an alternative cleansing composition which displays also acceptable viscosity (between 1,500 and 50,000 cps), contrary to Comparative Formulation 1b.

[0160] Sensorial tests confirmed that Formulations 1a and 1b of the invention exhibit at the same time good foaming properties and good conditioning.

[0161] These examples illustrate that the particular combination of surfactants required according to the invention, namely the combination of a methyl oleoyl taurate with one isethionate of the invention and with one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant of the invention (namely a sultaine, such as in Formulation 1a, or an amphoacetate, such as in Formulation 1b), is critical to achieve good foaming and conditioning properties, while maintaining an acceptable viscosity in a sulfate-free surfactant chassis.

Example 2

[0162] The following sulfate-free shampoo compositions were prepared.

[0163] The starting materials used are identified by the INCI names and/or by the commercial references. All ingredients are expressed by weight percent of the total formulation and as level of active ingredients.

TABLE-US-00002 Comparative Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation 2 2a 2b 2c Mackanate ® EL 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) Mackam ® CBS-50G — — — 4.0 (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultain) Miranol ® Ultra L32 — — 4.0 — (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate) Mackam ® CAB-818 4.0 — — — (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Mirataine ® BB/FLA — 4.0 — — (Coco-Betaine) Pureact ® I-78C 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) Geropon ® T-77 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 (Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate) Mackamide ® CPA 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (Cocamide MIPA) sodium chloride 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 Jaguar ® LS 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) Citric acid solution (50%) q.s q.s q.s q.s Kathon ® CG  0.05  0.05  0.05  0.05 (Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone) De-ionized water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 pH 5.4 5.4 6.0 5.4 Brookfield Viscosity at 10 <1,000 Between Between Betwenn RPM, RV spindle 19,000 and 26,000 and 1,500 and 4 or 5 (mPa .Math. s) 22,000 29,000 3,000

[0164] Formulation Procedure

[0165] Add 24 parts of de-ionized water in a tared beaker A under continuous stirring and heat at 65° C. Add Mackamide® CPA and mix at 100 RPM. After 10 minutes, add Pureact®I-78C and let under stirring during 30 minutes. Stop heating and let the mixture under stirring until it comes back at 30° C. If necessary, compensate for water loss that has occurred during heating step.

[0166] In another vessel, charge 26 parts of de-ionized water. Add Jaguar LS in the vessel and add a few drops of citric acid solution (50%) under stirring, until the solution becomes clear. Add Miranol® Ultra L32 (or Mackam® CBS-50G, Mackam® CAB 818, Mirataine® BB/FLA) under stirring, followed by Mackanate® EL. Add the pre-mix of beaker A into the main vessel under continuous stirring at 100 RPM during 10 minutes. Add Geropon® T-77 in the form of a 25 wt % dilution in water to the batch and stir during 10 minutes. Adjust pH between 5.0 and 6.0 with a 50% solution of citric acid, add Kathon®CG and add the required amount of sodium chloride under stirring. Add de-ionized water up to 100 parts.

[0167] Viscosity Measurement

[0168] The viscosity of each composition was measured after 24-hours in a temperature-controlled room (21±3° C.), using a Brookfield Viscosimeter Model DV-II+ at 10 RPM, with a RV spindle 4 or 5. The viscosity value was always taken after a stabilization time of 1 min.

[0169] Performances

[0170] At the same level of added salts (1.3 wt % of sodium chloride), Formulation 2a, 2b and 2c which includes the particular combination of anionic surfactants together with a specific amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in accordance with the invention, are cleansing compositions displaying acceptable viscosity (above 1,500 cps) contrary to Comparative Formulation 2.

Example 3

[0171] The following sulfate-free shampoo compositions were prepared.

[0172] The starting materials used are identified by the INCI names and/or by the commercial references. All ingredients are expressed by weight percent of the total formulation and as level of active ingredients.

TABLE-US-00003 Comparative Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation 3 3a 3b 3c Mackanate ® EL 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) Mackam ® CBS-50G — — — 4.0 (Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultain) Miranol ® Ultra L32 — — 4.0 — (Sodium Lauroamphoacetate) Mackam ® CAB-818 4.0 — — — (Cocamidopropyl betaine) Mirataine ® BB/FLA — 4.0 — — (Coco-Betaine) Pureact ® I-78C 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate) Geropon ® T-77 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 (Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate) Mackamide ® CPA 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 (Cocamide MIPA) Jaguar ® LS 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 (Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) Citric acid solution (50%) q.s q.s q.s q.s sodium chloride 2.0  0.45  0.33  1.79 Kathon ® CG  0.05  0.05  0.05  0.05 (Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone) De-ionized water up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 pH 5.4 5.4 5,6 5.4 Brookfield Viscosity at 10 Between Between Between Between RPM (mPa .Math. s) 7,000 and 7,000 and 7,000 and 7,000 and (RV spindle 4) 10,000 10,000 10,000 10,000

[0173] Formulation Procedure

[0174] Add 27 parts of de-ionized water in a tared beaker A under continuous stirring and heat at 65° C. Add Mackamide® CPA and mix at 100 RPM. After 10 minutes, add Pureact®I-78C. After 5 minutes add of Geropon® T-77 and let under stirring during 30 minutes. Stop heating and let the mixture under stirring until it comes back at 30° C. If necessary, compensate for water loss that has occurred during heating step.

[0175] In another vessel, charge 30 parts of de-ionized water. Add Jaguar LS in the vessel and adjust pH at 5.5 with a 50% solution of citric acid, under stirring, until the solution becomes clear. Add Miranol® Ultra L32 (or Mackam® CBS-50G, Mackam® CAB 818, Mirataine® BB/FLA) under stirring, followed by Mackanate® EL. Add the pre-mix of beaker A into the main vessel under continuous stirring at 100 RPM during 10 minutes. Add sodium chloride up to achieve a targeted viscosity of [7000-10000 mPa.Math.s] at 10 RPM and adjust pH at 5.5±0.2 with a 50% solution of citric acid under continuous stirring. Add Kathon®CG and add de-ionized water up to 100 parts.

[0176] Performances

[0177] Viscosity of each formulation has been adjusted with added salt (sodium chloride) to yield formulations having a similar viscosity within a satisfactory range (between 7,000 and 10,000 cps).

[0178] In this viscosity range the performances of Formulation 3a, 3b and 3c (which includes the particular combination of anionic surfactants together with a specific amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in accordance with the invention) have been compared to the performances of Comparative Formulation 3, in terms of sensorial assessment on hair tresses, foam volume and foam % humidity, according to the following methodologies.

[0179] Sensorial Assessment on Hair Tresses

[0180] Flat Calibrated tresses of bleached Caucasian hair, weighing about 10 grams, length of hair: 21 cm below clip and 3 cm width were used. They were purchased from Kerling International Haarfabik GmbH, Donaustr. 7, D-71522 Backnang-Waldrems in Germany. Sensorial analysis was performed by a trained expert panellist, following the standardized protocol described below.

[0181] Prior to being actually shampooed, the hair tresses were first cleansed with a 10% active sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) solution. Each hair tress was then wetted under flowing tap water (controlled flow 1100 mL+/−40 mL per 10 sec) at controlled temperature (36.5° C.±1° C.) during 1 minute. 1 ml of shampoo formulation was applied over the entire length of the hair tress and foam was produced by massaging the hair tress from the top to the bottom during 1 min 30 sec with one's hand. The speed at which the foam forms after 15 seconds (so-called “flash-foam”) was scored (a score of 1 corresponds to a very slow-forming foam; a score of 2, a slow-forming foam; a score of 3, a medium rapid forming foam; a score of 4, a rapid forming foam; a score of 5 a very rapid forming foam).

[0182] The foam generated in the hands and on hair tress was then collected in a conic beaker of 250 mL. The amount of foam was assessed and the foam quality attributes were noted (whiteness, density, richness). Then the hair tress was rinsed during 1 min 15 sec, under flowing tap water at controlled flow, with gentle squeezing of the hair tress from roots to tips with the fingers. After rinsing, the excess water was removed by squeezing the hair tress with two fingers, and the time necessary to detangle the hair tress with a wide-tooth comb was monitored.

Sensorial analysis on bleached hair tresses were performed by one expert panellist. Results were the following:

TABLE-US-00004 Comparative Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation 3 3a 3b 3c flash foam 2.5 4.5 3.5 4 [score 1 (very low)-5 (very high)] Foam volume (ml) 30 ml 40 ml 30 ml 35 ml Detangling time 5 min 3 min 4 min 3 min 30 sec 25 sec 54 sec 53 sec

[0183] Formulation 3a, 3b and 3c (which includes the particular combination of anionic surfactants together with a specific amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant in accordance with the invention) exhibit all overall better performances (in terms of speed of foam formation, foam volume and time necessary to achieve hair tress detangling) compared to Comparative Formulation 3.

[0184] Foam Volume and Foam % Humidity Methodology

[0185] Foam volumes (initial, after 30 sec, 1 minute, 3 minutes and 5 minutes ageing) were measured using a high throughput methodology adapted from Ross-Miles tests. 10-times dilute solutions are prepared by mixing 15 gr of each formulation with 135 gr of deionized water. These diluted formulas are then split as follows: 20 mL are placed into plastic syringes set on a fixed metallic bar. Above the latter, a mobile bar pushes and empties the seringes at controlled speed. The liquids then fall into 100 mL glass cylinders containing 10 mL of the same dilute formulas. The high speed falling jets will create foam which will be photographed as a function of time. When the last drop of the 20 ml diluted solution in the seringe has fallen into glass cylinder, the chronometer and camera are started and the initial foam volume is stated. This parameter as well as the volume of total liquid in glass cylinder is then recorded that after 30 sec, 1 minute, 3 minutes and 5 minutes. The % of humidity at a time (t) in foam is defined as following:

% humidity(t): (30−volume of liquid in glass cylinder(t)×100)/volume of foam(t)

[0186] It is usually recognized that a high % of humidity in foam is desirable, as it correlates well with a whiter, richer lather type, in opposition to dry and dull foam for foams having a low % of humidity.

[0187] For each formulation tested, 4 replicates were prepared and the average foam volume, drained liquid volume, and average % humidity were calculated.

[0188] Results were the following:

[0189] Foam Volume

[0190] For each formulation evaluated, 4 replicates of foam volume measurements were done and the average foam volume was calculated from these 4 values.

TABLE-US-00005 Foam Volume (ml) Comparative Time Formulation Formulation Formulation Formulation (sec) 3 3a 3b 3c  0 74.4 81.6 78.9 76.8  30 70.5 78.0 76.5 72.9  60 67.0 75.8 74.0 70.5 180 63.6 71.3 70.1 66.6 300 62.5 69.5 67.9 64.9

[0191] Foam volume and stability is significantly higher for compositions of the invention containing coco-betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine than for a comparative composition containing cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0192] Foam % Humidity

[0193] The volume of liquid drained (corresponding to the volume of liquid in glass cylinder) was measured by one expert panellist after 30 sec, 1 min, 3 min, 5 min and % humidity of foam generated after 30 sec, 1 min, 3 min, 5 min was calculated as explained above:

TABLE-US-00006 Comparative Formulation Formulation Formulation 3 3a 3b Volume Volume Volume Formulation % Liquid % liquid % Liquid 3c Time Humidity drained humidity Drained humidity Drained % humidity Volume liquid (sec) in foam (ml) in foam (ml) in foam (ml) in foam drained (ml) 30 13.5 20.5 14.9 18.4 14.4 19.0 14.2 19.6 60 10.4 23.0 12.4 20.6 11.5 21.5 11.7 21.8 180 5.7 26.4 6.8 25.1 7.0 25.1 6.9 25.4 300 4.0 27.5 5.0 26.5 4.6 26.9 4.8 26.9

[0194] The % of humidity in foam generated by the compositions of the invention containing coco-betaine, sodium lauroamphoacetate, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine is significantly higher compared to a comparative composition containing cocamidopropylbetaine.

[0195] All these Examples demonstrate that the compositions according to the invention makes it possible to achieve an acceptable compromise between viscosity of the composition, foaming properties and conditioning.