COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION FOR TREATING HAIR TO IMPROVE COMBING

Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic composition which is in the form of an emulsion of water-in-oil type including, per 100% of its mass: from 60% to 95% by mass of a gelled aqueous phase including at least one crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte; from 5% to 40% by mass of a fatty phase including at least one oil and an emulsifying system including a combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant selected from the elements of the group consisting of compositions of alkylpolyglycosides, compositions of alkylpolyglycosides and of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, and alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition (C1) in the form of an emulsion of water-in-oil type comprising, per 100% of mass: from 60% to 95% by mass of a gelled aqueous phase (A1) comprising at least one crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte which comprises a proportion of greater than or equal to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), from 5% to 40% by mass of a fatty phase (A2) comprising at least one oil and an emulsifying system comprising a combination of at least one emulsifying surfactant (S) selected from the elements of the group consisting of compositions of alkylpolyglycosides, and compositions of alkylpolyglycosides and of fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, and alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.

2. The composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein the gelled aqueous phase (A1) comprises, per 100% of mass, from 0.1% to 7% by mass of a crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) and from 93% to 99.9% by mass of water.

3. The composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) comprises, per 100 mol %: a1) from 5 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), a2) from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer of formula (VI): ##STR00012## in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 20; a3) from 35 mol % to 94.9 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one neutral monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate; a4) a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 1 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR); the sum of said molar proportions of monomer units according to a1), a2), a3) and a4) being equal to 100 mol %.

4. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 3, wherein said neutral monomer is 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

5. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 3, wherein said monomer of formula (VI) is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.

6. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate.

7. The composition (C.sub.1) as defined in claim 1, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) includes, per 100 mol %: from 45 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride from 0.5 mol % to 3 mol % of monomer units derived from tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, and from 37 mol % to 54.5 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

8. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein said emulsifying system (S) consists of an alkylpolyglycoside composition (C2) represented by formula (VII):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.x-H  (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R.sub.1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition (C.sub.1) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII.sub.1), (VII.sub.2), (VII.sub.3), (VII.sub.4) and (VII.sub.5):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.1-H  (VII.sub.1)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.2-H  (VII.sub.2)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.3-H  (VII.sub.3)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.4-H  (VII.sub.4)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.5-H  (VII.sub.5) in the respective molar proportions a.sub.1, a.sub.2, a.sub.3, a.sub.4 and a.sub.5, such that: the sum a.sub.1+a.sub.2+a.sub.3+a.sub.4+a.sub.5 is equal to 1, and that the sum a.sub.1+2a.sub.2+3a.sub.3+4a.sub.4+5a.sub.5 is equal to x.

9. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (C3) comprising, per 100% of mass: from 10% to 50% by mass of at least one alkylpolyglycoside composition (C2) represented by formula (VII):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.x-H  (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R.sub.1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII.sub.1), (VII.sub.2), (VII.sub.3), (VII.sub.4) and (VII.sub.5):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.1-H  (VII.sub.1)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.2-H  (VII.sub.2)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.3-H  (VII.sub.3)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.4-H  (VII.sub.4)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.5-H  (VII.sub.5) in the respective molar proportions a.sub.1, a.sub.2, a.sub.3, a.sub.4 and a.sub.5, such that: the sum a.sub.1+a.sub.2+a.sub.3+a.sub.4+a.sub.5 is equal to 1, and that the sum a.sub.1+2a.sub.2+3a.sub.3+4a.sub.4+5a.sub.5 is equal to x; and from 90% to 50% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (VIII):
R′.sub.1—OH  (VIII), in which R′.sub.1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical.

10. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (C4) comprising, per 100% of its mass: from 15% to 25% by mass of at least one composition (C2) represented by formula (VII):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.x-H  (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition (C.sub.1) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII.sub.1), (VII.sub.2), (VII.sub.3), (VII.sub.4) and (VII.sub.5):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.1-H  (VII.sub.1)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.2-H  (VII.sub.2)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.3-H  (VII.sub.3)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.4-H  (VII.sub.4)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.5-H  (VII.sub.5) in the respective molar proportions a.sub.1, a.sub.2, a.sub.3, a.sub.4 and a.sub.5, such that: the sum a.sub.1+a.sub.2+a.sub.3+a.sub.4+a.sub.5 is equal to 1, and that the sum a.sub.1+2a.sub.2+3a.sub.3+4a.sub.4+5a.sub.5 is equal to x; from 55% to 65% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (VIII):
R′.sub.1—OH  (VIII), in which R′.sub.1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical; from 10% to 30% by mass of at least one polyglycol polyhydroxystearate represented by formula (IX): ##STR00013## in which y.sub.2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R.sub.4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical, and Z.sub.2 represents a radical of formula (XII): ##STR00014## in which y′.sub.2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, and Z′.sub.2 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, where Z.sub.2′ may be identical to or different from Z.sub.2, or a hydrogen atom.

11. A crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) comprising, per 100 mol %: b1) from 40 mol % to 60 mol % of cationic monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), b2) from 0.1 mol % to 3 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer of formula (VI): ##STR00015## in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 20; b3) from 37 mol % to 59.9 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one neutral monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate or 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate; b4) a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 1 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR); the sum of said molar proportions of monomer units according to b1), b2), b3) and b4) being equal to 100 mol %.

12. The crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP1) as defined in claim 11, comprising, per 100 mol %: from 45 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride from 0.5 mol % to 3 mol % of monomer units derived from tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, and from 37 mol % to 54.5 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

13. A method for improving the combing of locks of hair, comprising applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition of claim 1 to the hair.

14. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 1, wherein said emulsifying system (S) consists of a composition (C4) comprising, per 100% of mass: from 15% to 25% by mass of at least one composition (C2) represented by formula (VII):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.x-H  (VII) in which x represents a decimal number between 1.05 and 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, said composition (C.sub.1) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by formulae (VII.sub.1), (VII.sub.2), (VII.sub.3), (VII.sub.4) and (VII.sub.5):
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.1-H  (VII.sub.1)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.2-H  (VII.sub.2)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.3-H  (VII.sub.3)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.4-H  (VII.sub.4)
R.sub.1—O-(G).sub.5-H  (VII.sub.5) in the respective molar proportions a.sub.1, a.sub.2, a.sub.3, a.sub.4 and a.sub.5, such that: the sum a.sub.1+a.sub.2+a.sub.3+a.sub.4+a.sub.5 is equal to 1, and that the sum a.sub.1+2a.sub.2+3a.sub.3+4a.sub.4+5a.sub.5 is equal to x; from 55% to 65% by mass of at least one fatty alcohol of formula (VIII):
R′.sub.1—OH  (VIII), in which R′.sub.1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical; from 10% to 30% by mass of at least one polyglycol polyhydroxystearate represented by formula (IX): ##STR00016## in which y.sub.2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R.sub.4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or an ethyl radical, and Z.sub.2 represents a radical of formula (XII): ##STR00017## in which y′.sub.2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z′.sub.2 represents a radical of formula (XII) as defined above, where Z.sub.2′ may be identical to or different from Z.sub.2, or a hydrogen atom.

15. The composition (C1) as defined in claim 2, wherein the crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) comprises, per 100 mol %: a1) from 5 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from an element from the group consisting of 2,N,N,N-tetramethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (AMPTAC), 2,N,N-trimethyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride and N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), a2) from 0.1 mol % to 5 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one monomer of formula (VI): ##STR00018## in which R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical including from 8 to 20 carbon atoms and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 20; a3) from 35 mol % to 94.9 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one neutral monomer chosen from the elements of the group consisting of acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, methacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate; a4) a proportion of greater than 0 mol % and less than or equal to 1 mol % of monomer units derived from at least one diethylenic or polyethylenic crosslinking monomer (AR); the sum of said molar proportions of monomer units according to a1), a2), a3) and a4) being equal to 100 mol %.

16. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 2, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate.

17. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 3, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate.

18. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 4, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate.

19. The cosmetic composition (C1) as defined in claim 5, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) is a terpolymer of N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride (APTAC), of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate or with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with ethylene glycol diacrylate.

20. The composition (C.sub.1) as defined in claim 2, wherein said crosslinked cationic polyelectrolyte (CP) includes, per 100 mol %: from 45 mol % to 60 mol % of monomer units derived from N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]propanammonium chloride from 0.5 mol % to 3 mol % of monomer units derived from tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate, and from 37 mol % to 54.5 mol % of monomer units derived from 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.

Description

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS

[0171] The examples that follow illustrate the invention without, however, limiting it.

Preparation and Evaluation of Water-in-Oil Emulsions According to the Invention and of Comparative Water-in-Oil Emulsions.

I)—Preparation of Crosslinked Cationic Polyelectrolytes

[0172] I-1 A Self-Invertible Inverse Latex of the Copolymer APTAC/HEA/MAL(40E) (49.76/49.76/0.48) Crosslinked with MBA is Prepared as Follows:
The following are placed a beaker, with stirring:
151.0 g of permuted water;
147.9 g of hydroxyethyl acrylate;
351.0 g of a commercial solution containing 75% acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (APTAC);
0.224 g of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate;
0.45 g of a commercial aqueous solution containing 40% sodium salt of diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid.
An oil phase is prepared by successively mixing:
259 g of isohexadecane
20 g of sorbitan isostearate (sold under the brand name Montane™ 70 by the company SEPPIC)
5 g of Hypermer™ 2296 (sold by the company Croda)
5 g of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate [MAL(40E)]
0.1 g of azobis(isobutyronitrile) (AIBN).
The aqueous phase is gradually incorporated into the organic phase and then subjected to vigorous mechanical stirring using an Ultra-Turrax™ turbomixer, to form an inverse emulsion (water/oil).
The emulsion is then cooled to about 10° C. and sparged under nitrogen for about 60 minutes to remove the oxygen. The polymerization is then initiated by incorporating therein 10 cm.sup.3 of a solution of cumene hydroperoxide at 0.68% by weight in isohexadecane. After homogenization of the medium, 25 g of an aqueous solution of sodium metabisulfite at 0.1% by weight are added while allowing the temperature of the mixture to rise to the final polymerization temperature followed by stirring for 90 minutes. The resulting mixture is then cooled to about 35° C., and 40 g of lauryl alcohol ethoxylated with 7 mol (Simulsol™ P7) are then added. The desired self-invertible inverse latex (LI1) is obtained.

Analyses

[0173] Polyelectrolyte content: about 27.5% by weight

Viscosity Measurements:

[0174] Viscosity of the self-invertible inverse latex (LI1) (Brookfield RVT, rotor 3; speed: 5 rpm): η=1280 mPa.Math.s [0175] Viscosity of an aqueous solution containing 3% by weight of the self-invertible inverse latex (LI1) (Brookfield RVT, rotor 6; speed: 5 rpm): η=68 400 mPa.Math.s [0176] Viscosity of an aqueous solution containing 3% by weight of the self-invertible inverse latex (LI1) and 1%0 of sodium chloride: η=14 440 mPa.Math.s

II)—Preparation and Evaluation of Water-in-Oil Emulsions According to the Invention and of Comparative Water-in-Oil Emulsions.

II-1 Preparation of Water-in-Oil Emulsions According to the Invention

[0177] A water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention, denoted (F.sub.1), the mass proportions of the constituents of which are collated in table 1 below, the mass contents of the polyelectrolytes being indicated as a percentage of polymeric solids, is prepared by performing the following process:

[0178] The constituents of the fatty phase are introduced successively into a beaker, and mixed at a temperature of 20° C. using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a impeller-type stirring head at a speed of 100 rpm. The glycerol and water are mixed at room temperature in a beaker using a mechanical stirrer at a speed of 2000 rpm and the thickener is then added gradually.

[0179] The stirring is maintained for a duration which makes it possible to obtain an aqueous phase which is in the form of a homogeneous gel. The fatty phase is added in a single portion to the aqueous gel at room temperature and at a moderate stirring speed (75 to 300 rpm) using a stirrer equipped with an anchor-type stirring head. This stirring is then maintained for 10 minutes and no cooling step is necessary.

The conductivity (σ) of the comparative emulsions (F′.sub.1) to (F′.sub.3) is measured at 20° C., after a period of storage of said emulsions of one day in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., by means of an LF 196™ brand conductivity meter from the company WTW equipped with a TetraCon™ 96 electrode.
When (σ)≤0.5 μS.Math.cm.sup.−1, the emulsion is considered to be non-conductive and consequently the external phase is not the aqueous phase but the oily phase, and said emulsion is of water-in-oil type.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 (F.sub.1) Fatty phase Olive oil .sup.(1) 1% Triglycerides 5545 .sup.(2) 9% Euxyl ™ PE9010 .sup.(3) 1% Easynov ™ .sup.(4) 2.5%   Aqueous phase Glycerol 2% Inverse latex (Ll1) 0.6% (p.a.m.)* i.e. 2.18% of (Ll1) Simulgel ™ 600.sup.(5) 0% Water q.s. 100% pH adjustment qs pH = 5.0 (σ) at 1 day ≤0.5 μS .Math. cm.sup.−1 .sup.(1) Olive oil (INCI name: Olea Europea (Olive) Fruit Oil): oil used as oily phase in the preparation of the cosmetic composition; .sup.(2) Triglycerides 5545 (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides): composition used as oily phase in the preparation of the cosmetic composition; .sup.(3) Euxyl ™ PE9010 (INCI name: phenoxyethanol & ethylhexylglycerol): composition used as a preserving agent; .sup.(4) Easynov ™ (INCI name: Octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl xyloside and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate): emulsifying composition sold by the company SEPPIC, comprising, per 100% of its mass, from 55% to 65% by mass of 2-octyldodecanol, from 15% to 25% by mass of 2-octyldodecyl polyxyloside, from 10% to 30% by mass of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate; .sup.(5)Simulgel ™ 600 (INCI name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and polysorbate 80): Inverse latex comprising, per 100% of its mass, about 35% by mass of a copolymer of partially salified acrylic acid and of the sodium salt of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, crosslinked with methylenebisacrylamide; *p.a.m.: polymeric active material

II-2 Preparation of Comparative Water-in-Oil and Oil-in-Water Emulsions

[0180] a) A comparative water-in-oil emulsion is prepared according to the process described in paragraph II-1, denoted (F′.sub.1), and of which the mass proportions of the constituents thereof are collated in table 2 below. [0181] b) A comparative water-in-oil emulsion denoted (F′.sub.2), of which the mass proportions of the constituents thereof are collated in table 2 below, is prepared according to the following process: [0182] the constituents of the fatty phase are introduced successively into a beaker, and mixed at a temperature of 85° C. using a mechanical stirrer equipped with an impeller-type stirring head at a speed of 100 rpm; [0183] water heated to 85° C. is added to the fatty phase at 85° C., followed by addition of the magnesium sulfate and the glycerol; [0184] The mixture obtained is maintained at 85° C. under impeller-type mechanical stirring at a speed of 100 rpm; [0185] The mixture is then stirred with a Silverson brand rotor-stator mechanical device at a speed of 2000 rpm for 2 minutes, and then at 8000 rpm for 2 minutes; [0186] The mixture thus homogenized is then maintained under impeller-type mechanical stirring at a speed of 200 rpm while cooling to 20° C., and is then emptied out to obtain the water-in-oil emulsion (F′.sub.2). [0187] c) A comparative oil-in-water emulsion denoted (F′.sub.3), of which the mass proportions of the constituents thereof are collated in table 2 below, is prepared according to the following process: [0188] the constituents of the fatty phase are introduced successively into a beaker, and mixed at a temperature of 75° C. using a mechanical stirrer equipped with an impeller-type stirring head at a speed of 100 rpm; [0189] water heated to 75° C. is added to the fatty phase at 75° C., followed by addition of the glycerol; [0190] The inverse latex (LI1) is then added at 75° C., and the resulting mixture is then homogenized with a Silverson brand rotor-stator mechanical device at a speed of 4000 rpm for 4 minutes, [0191] The mixture thus homogenized is then maintained under impeller-type mechanical stirring at a speed of 100 rpm for 10 minutes while cooling to 20° C., and is then emptied out to obtain the water-in-oil emulsion (F′.sub.3). [0192] d) The conductivity (a) of the comparative emulsions (F′.sub.1) to (F′.sub.3) is measured at 20° C., after a period of storage of said emulsions of one day in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., by means of an LF 196™ brand conductivity meter from the company WTW equipped with a TetraCon™ 96 electrode. [0193] When (σ)≤0.5 μS.Math.cm.sup.−1, the emulsion is considered to be non-conductive and consequently the external phase is not the aqueous phase but the oily phase, and said emulsion is of water-in-oil type. [0194] When (σ)>0.5 μS.Math.cm.sup.−1, the emulsion is considered to be conductive and consequently the external phase is the aqueous phase and said emulsion is of oil-in-water type.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 (F′.sub.1) (F′.sub.2) (F′.sub.3) Fatty phase Olive oil .sup.(1) 1% 1% 1% Triglycerides 5545 .sup.(2) 9% 12%  9% Euxyl ™ PE9010 .sup.(3) 1% 1% 1% Easynov ™ .sup.(4) 2.5%   4% 0% Simulsol ™ 165.sup.(6) 0% 0% 0% Aqueous phase Glycerol 2% 2% 2% Simulgel ™ 600.sup.(5) 0.6% (p.a.m.)* 0% 0% i.e. 1.71% of crosslinked anionic polyelectrolyte Inverse latex (Ll1) 0% 0% 0.6% (p.a.m.)* i.e. 2.18% of (Ll1) MgSO.sub.4•7H.sub.2O 0% 0.72%   0% Water q.s. 100% q.s. 100% q.s. 100% pH adjustment qs qs qs pH = 5.0 pH = 5.0 pH = 5.0 (σ) at 1 day ≤0.5 μS .Math. ≤0.5 μS .Math. >0.5 μS .Math. cm.sup.−1 cm.sup.−1 cm.sup.−1 .sup.(6)Simulsol ™ 165: INCI name PEG-100 stearate & glyceryl stearate, is a composition used as an emulsifying surfactant for preparing oil-in-water type emulsions.

II-3 Evaluation of the Emulsion and of the Comparative Water-in-Oil and Oil-in-Water Emulsions on the Combing of Locks of Hair

[0195] II-3.1 Description of the Method for Evaluating the Combing of the Locks of Hair

[0196] a) Preparation of the Locks of Hair [0197] “4h” type locks of damaged Caucasian hair supplied by the company Kerling International are used, which are each in the form of a lock weighing 2 g [“glued weft 4H bleached, 20 cm×2 cm/2 g color 7/0”]. [0198] For each lock, the upper part of the hair strands which remain attached (hair strands held together) is covered with orange adhesive tape to enable marking of the code. Each lock is then identified using an indelible marker by writing the last two figures of the current year, followed by the week number, followed by C and a number from 01 to 99 (e.g.: 1416C08). [0199] In total, three locks are evaluated for each emulsion to be evaluated.

[0200] b) Test Protocol [0201] Each lock of hair is moistened under a trickle of water, and the excess water is removed by placing two fingers on either side of the lock and exerting a downward vertical motion. [0202] The lock is soaked, once, in a washing solution consisting of a solution containing 10% active material of sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide; the excess washing solution is removed by placing two fingers on either side of the lock and exerting a downward vertical motion. [0203] The lock is then shampooed for 30 seconds in zigzag action. Thus, the lock is placed in the palm of the directing hand while holding the lock by the top with the other hand. A horizontal to-and-fro motion is then applied with the thumb of the directing hand while drawing the lock slowly with the other hand. The thumb thus effects a zigzag motion along the lock. The lock is returned to the top between each passage and it is necessary to perform this manipulation on both sides of the lock (15 seconds for each side). [0204] the operator must rinse his or her hands to remove all trace of washing solution before continuing the experimental protocol [0205] the lock is then rinsed with tap water for 30 seconds: 15 seconds on each side while accompanying the trickle of water twice in succession with the fingers [0206] the excess water is removed by placing two fingers on either side of the lock and exerting a downward vertical motion. [0207] Hold the lock vertically above the workbench and, using the “fine” part of the comb, comb the lock 10 times on each side. [0208] Check that no surfactant remains on the lock [0209] the force required to comb each lock is then evaluated by means of a Diastron MT175 machine (see below), by performing six consecutive measurements for each lock; the values obtained constitute the “control” values. [0210] each lock is held “in the hand”, holding it by the adhesive tape, and 0.2 g of test emulsion per gram of hair is applied to the upper third of the lock; [0211] the lock is then shampooed for 30 seconds in zigzag action in the same manner as for the washing [0212] The operator then rinses his or her hands to eliminate all trace of product [0213] the lock is then rinsed with tap water for 30 seconds: 15 seconds on each side while accompanying the trickle of water twice in succession with the fingers. [0214] the excess water is removed by placing two fingers on either side of the lock and exerting a downward vertical motion [0215] the lock is held vertically and combed 10 times on each side with the “fine” part of the comb, [0216] the force required to comb each lock is then evaluated by means of a Diastron MT175 machine (see below), by performing six consecutive measurements for each lock; the values obtained constitute the “experimental” values for each test emulsion.

[0217] c) Measurement of the Forces Required to Comb the Locks

[0218] Equipment: [0219] A machine for measuring the forces for combing locks of hair known as a “miniature tensile tester”, model MTT 175, sold by the company Diastron, equipped with UvWin software (software for piloting the MTT 175 and for data acquisition and processing) and a control unit between the MTT 175 and the UvWin software known as UV 1000 are used. [0220] The combs used are combs sold by the company Babyliss, of the Babyliss Pro Styling Comb range (Reference 691078). [0221] The locks used are “4h” type locks of damaged Caucasian hair sold by the company Kerling International.

[0222] Measuring Method: [0223] The Diastron MTT 175 machine makes it possible to measure the force required to comb a lock of hair. [0224] The method consists in attaching the lock to be evaluated to the ad-hoc device of the machine, which is also equipped with a comb attached to a mobile part; the lock is attached in the vertical position. [0225] When a mechanism is activated, the comb travels downward along the lock and, at each point of the path, the machine records the force required to continue its progress. Thus, the machine can plot the change in combing force as a function of the distance travelled by the comb along the lock. [0226] This protocol is performed six times for the same lock: three measurements for each side of the lock. [0227] In total, for each lock, six control measurements are taken, namely on the lock that has been washed but not treated with the emulsion to be evaluated, and six measurements are taken on the lock that has been washed and treated with the emulsion to be evaluated. [0228] For each measurement, it is thus possible to obtain the change in force.

[0229] Expressing and Interpreting the Results: [0230] The measurement performed makes it possible to evaluate the change in the friction force or combing force over the length of the lock travelled by the comb from the root to the end of the hair strands. [0231] If the friction force or combing force increases at the end of the hair strands, the user will have the impression of a product that is in effective for disentangling, even running the risk of pulling out the hair strands and/or of breaking the ends by forcing. [0232] Ideal combing corresponds to a weak force that is as constant as possible over the entire length, from the root to the end. [0233] For each measurement, the value of the combing force measured at 25% of the maximum recorded force, which is expressed in newtons (N), is recorded. [0234] These forces will thus be named the control combing force (Fcont) and the combing force for the hair treated with the emulsions to be evaluated (Fexp). [0235] If necessary, it is also possible to measure the value of the combing force in the middle of the lock and/or at the end of the lock. Thus, these forces will be named (Fmid) for the value of the combing force in the middle of the lock (after 60.1 mm of combing with the device used) and (Fend) for the value of the combing force at the end of the lock (i.e. after 159.2 mm of combing with the device used).

[0236] II-3.2 Method for Evaluating the Appearance and Stability of Water-in-Oil Emulsions According to the Invention and of Comparative Emulsions

[0237] The emulsions (F.sub.1) according to the invention and the comparative emulsions (F′.sub.1) to (F′.sub.3) are stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., for 7 days. On conclusion of this 7-day period, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed. The emulsions are then returned and stored in the same insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., for up to 3 months. After this period, the appearance (APP) of each emulsion prepared is observed.

[0238] II-3.3 Results Obtained for the Water-in-Oil Emulsion (F.sub.1) According to the Invention and for the Comparative Emulsions (F′1) to (F′.sub.3)

[0239] a) Results Obtained

The evaluation methods described in paragraphs II-3.1 and II-3.2 were applied to the water-in-oil emulsion (F.sub.1) according to the invention and to the comparative emulsions (F′.sub.1) to (F′.sub.3). The results obtained are recorded in table 3 below.

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 (F.sub.1) (F′.sub.1) (F′.sub.2) (F′.sub.3) (APP) at 7 days Homoge- Homoge- Homoge- Homoge- neous neous neous neous (APP) at 1 month Homoge- Homoge- Homoge- Homoge- neous neous neous neous (APP) at 3 months Homoge- Homoge- Homoge- Homoge- neous neous neous neous (Fcont.) in newtons 0.98N 1.26N 1.18N 1.16N (Fexp.) in newtons 0.12N 0.49N 0.47N 0.16N (Fmid) in newtons 11.8N n.m. n.m. 15.8N (Fend) in newtons 13.1N n.m. n.m. 45.7N n.m. : not measured b) Analysis of the results obtained

[0240] Treatment of the locks of hair moistened with the emulsion (F.sub.1) according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the combing force by 87.8% between the untreated locks (0.98 N) and the locks treated with the emulsion (F.sub.1) (0.12 N), whereas the comparative emulsion (F′.sub.1), which differs from the emulsion (F.sub.1) only by the nature of the crosslinked polyelectrolyte used, does not allow a decrease in the combing force of 61.1% (control combing force of 1.26 N and combing force for the locks treated with (F′.sub.1) of 0.49 N).

[0241] It should also be noted that the comparative water-in-oil emulsion (F′.sub.2), which differs by the absence of polyelectrolyte in its formulation, does not make it possible to reduce the combing force by a value of 59.6% (control combing force of 1.18 N and combing force for the locks treated with (F′.sub.2) of 0.47 N).

[0242] Only the comparative emulsion (F′.sub.2) of oil-in-water type allows a reduction in combing force similar to that of the emulsion (F.sub.1) according to the invention (reduction of 86.2% for a control combing force of 1.16 N and combing force for the locks treated with (F′.sub.3) of 0.16 N).

[0243] However, treatment of the locks of hair with the emulsion (F.sub.1) according to the invention makes it possible to obtain less combing force at the ends of the locks: 13.1 newtons for the locks of hair treated with the emulsion (F.sub.1) as opposed to 45.7 newtons for the locks of hair treated with the comparative emulsion (F′.sub.2).

III)—Illustrative Formulations

[0244] In the following formulations, the percentages are expressed by weight of the formulation.

III-1 Protective Color Cream

[0245]

TABLE-US-00004 Water q.s. 100% Glycerol 2% Self-invertible inverse latex (Ll1) 1.45%   TEA 6% Triethanolamine qs pH 5.5 Easynov ™ 2.50%   Coconut oil 5% Triglycerides 5545 5% (caprylic/capric triglyceride) Coconut oil 5% Inula ™ HC 1% Fragrance 0.5%   Tocopherol 0.1%   Dissolvine ™ GL47 0.25%   Euxyl ™ PE9010 1% (INCI: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol)

III-2 Protective Nutrient Cream for Ethnic-Type Hair

[0246]

TABLE-US-00005 Product name % Water q.s. 100% Glycerol 2% Self-invertible inverse latex (Ll1) 1.45%   TEA 6% triethanolamine qs pH 5.5 Easynov ™ 2.80%   Shea butter 4% Argan oil 2% Emosmart ™ V21 5% Xylishine 3% Fragrance 0.5%   Tocopherol 0.1%   Dissolvine GL47 0.25%   Euxyl ™ PE9010 1%

III-3 Ultra-Glossy Moisturizing Serum for Normal Hair

[0247]

TABLE-US-00006 Product name % Water q.s. 100% Glycerol 2% Self-invertible inverse latex (Ll1) 1.45%   TEA 6% triethanolamine qs pH 5.5 Easynov ™ 2.0%   Caprylic/capric triglyceride 2% Argan oil 1% Emogreen ™ L19 4% Xylishine ™ 3% Fragrance 0.5%   Tocopherol 0.1%   Dissolvinet GL47 0.25%   Euxyl ™ PE9010 1%

III-4 Very Mild Botanical Cream Serum

[0248]

TABLE-US-00007 Product name % Rosa damascena flower water q.s. 100% Glycerol 2% Self-invertible inverse latex (Ll1) 1.45%   Triethanolamine 6% qs pH 5.5 Easynov ™ 2.6%   Argan oil 2% Coconut oil 1% Emogreen ™ L19 2% Sodium phytate 0.1%   Tocopherol 0.25%   Euxyl ™ K712 1.2%   sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate Easynov ™ (INCI: octyldodecanol octyldodecyl xyloside and PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate) is an emulsifying agent of water-in-oil type; Inula ™ HC (INCI: caprylic/capric triglyceride - Inula crithmoides leaf/flower extract) is an active ingredient for protecting the hair against external stresses; Dissolvine ™ GL47 (INCI: tetrasodium glutamate diacetate) is a sequestrant; Euxyl ™ PE9010 (INCI: phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol) is a preserving agent; Emosmart ™ V21 (INCI: C18-21 alkanes) is an emollient; Emogreen ™ L19 (INCI: C15-19 alkanes) is an emollient; Xylishine ™ (INCI name: xylitylglucoside (and) anhydroxylitol (and) maltitol (and) xylitol (and) Pelvetia canaliculata/extract) is an active agent for improving hair sheen; Euxyl ™ K712 (INCI: Sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate) is a preserving agent