Useful compositions for the cosmetic treatment of oily skin

Abstract

The invention relates to the cosmetic use of an association of (i) at least one polyphenol selected from the monomers and oligomers of flavonoids extracted from vines, the derivatives thereof and the mixtures thereof, and (ii) at least two essential oils selected from peppermint, geranium, lemon balm, lemongrass, rosemary and lavender, for treating and/or preventing oily skin or skin with oily tendencies and/or aesthetic skin problems associated therewith. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating oily skin, and to compositions containing the association. It also relates to the association of polyphenols and the mixture of essential oils for treating acne or skin with oily tendencies.

Claims

1. A cosmetic anti-acne composition containing an association of (i) at least one polyphenol selected from monomeric and oligomeric flavonoids extracted from grape seed extract, the derivatives and mixtures thereof, and (ii) a mixture of peppermint, geranium, lemon balm, lemongrass, rosemary and lavender essential oils, in a physiologically acceptable medium, wherein the weight ratio of (i) to (ii) is 1:1 to 1:4.

2. The composition of claim 1, characterized in that it further contains at least one active substance selected from exfoliation agents and antioxidant agents and soothing agents.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least (iii) one polyphenol selected from monomeric and oligomeric proanthocyanidins extracted from grape seed, in native form or esterified form, and mixtures thereof, and (iv) the mixture of peppermint, geranium, lemon balm, lemongrass, rosemary and lavender essential oils.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least (iii) one grape seed extract containing polyphenols, stabilized by esterification, the extract being present in a concentration of from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and (iv) the mixture of peppermint, geranium, lemon balm, lemongrass, rosemary and lavender essential oils, said mixture of essential oils being present in a concentration of from 0.02 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one polyphenol is stabilized by etherification or esterification.

6. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 having an antimicrobial activity to Propionibacterium acnes.

Description

(1) In these examples, reference is made to a single accompanying FIGURE. This FIGURE is an isobologram showing the synergistic effect of a grape seed extract in combination with a mix of 6 essential oils.

EXAMPLE 1

Activity on P. acnes

(2) The antimicrobial activity of two active substances is evaluated: a grape seed extract a mixture of peppermint, geranium, lemon balm, lemongrass, rosemary and lavender essential oils

(3) The grape seed extract is metered to 97% oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs).

(4) The antimicrobial activity was tested on the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes ATCC6919, a reference strain that is sensitive to antibiotics.

(5) The bacteria were cultivated in a brain heart infusion (BHI) liquid nutrient medium; the cultures were incubated anaerobically at 36° C. for 3 to 5 days.

(6) In order to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of the ingredients individually, a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) test was carried out. The MIC measurement is an international reference method for quantifying antimicrobial activity in a liquid medium. The test was carried out on 96-well microplates. 100 μl of product to be tested (double the concentration of the concentration to be tested) was brought into contact with 100 μl of nutrient broth (at double concentration) containing the bacteria at a density of 2-6.10.sup.5 ufc/ml.

(7) After incubating the microplate for 3-5 days, the bacterial growth was evaluated by measuring the optical density at 620 nm. The results are expressed in a growth percentage calculated relative to a growth control, according to the following equation:

(8) $\mathrm{Growth}\mathrm{percentage}=\frac{\begin{array}{c}\mathrm{Measured}\mathrm{OD}\mathrm{of}\mathrm{product}\mathrm{tested}-\\ \mathrm{OD}\mathrm{of}\mathrm{absorption}\mathrm{control}\end{array}}{\mathrm{OD}\mathrm{of}\mathrm{growth}\mathrm{control}}$ where: absorption control=100 μl nutrient medium without bacteria+100 μl product to be tested growth control=100 μl nutrient medium with bacteria+diluting solvent of the products to be tested

(9) The first concentration in the tested product that allows a growth percentage of less than or equal to 20% is considered to be inhibitory.

(10) Antimicrobial activity on the growth of P. acnes was observed with the 2 compounds tested. The MICs measured are: MIC (grape seed extract)=0.05% (m/v) MIC (mix of 6 essential oils)=0.1% (m/v)

(11) The activity of the association was evaluated in accordance with the same experiment protocol and by using the chessboard method for selecting the concentrations to be tested (MIC/4-MIC/2-MIC-2MIC-4 MIC for each of the two compounds).

(12) In order to evaluate potential synergy between the two compounds, the fractional inhibitory concentration (FIC) was calculated:
FIC index=FIC.sub.A+FIC.sub.B
Where:
FIC.sub.A=MIC.sub.A with B/MIC.sub.A
FIC.sub.B=MIC.sub.B with A/MIC.sub.B

(13) MIC.sub.A with B: Concentration of product A in the association making it possible to obtain the inhibitory effect

(14) MIC.sub.B with A: Concentration of product B in the association making it possible to obtain the inhibitory effect

(15) MIC.sub.A: MIC of product A only

(16) MIC.sub.B: MIC of product B only

(17) According to this method, if: FIC index≤0.75 a synergistic effect of the 2 compounds is concluded FIC index=1 an additive effect of the 2 compounds is concluded 1≤FIC index<2 an indifference in the association of the 2 compounds is concluded FIC index≥2 antagonism between the 2 compounds is concluded

(18) At the ratio of grape seed extract to mix of essential oils of 1:1, the following is demonstrated: FIC.sub.A=0.5 and FIC.sub.B=0.25
FIC index (grape seed extract+mix of 6 essential oils)=0.75

(19) At the ratio of grape seed extract to mix of essential oils of 1:4, the following is demonstrated: FIC.sub.A=0.25 and FIC.sub.B=0.5
FIC index (grape seed extract+mix of 6 essential oils)=0.75

(20) This result therefore proves a synergistic interaction.

(21) A representative isobologram is shown in the accompanying FIGURE. The profile of the isobologram is different depending on the type of interaction between the ingredients. The dashed line indicates the FIC values equal to 1 which indicate a purely indifferent interaction. A concave isobologram highlights that the response of the association of the two ingredients is greater than the sum of their individual responses, which corresponds to a synergistic interaction. A convex isobologram highlights that the response of the association of the two ingredients is less than the sum of their individual responses, which corresponds to an antagonistic interaction.

(22) The FIGURE demonstrates synergistic antimicrobial activity of the combination of the grape seed extract and the mix of essential oils against P. acnes.

EXAMPLE 2

Compositions

(23) TABLE-US-00001 Lotion Common name % Water QSF 100 Glycerin  5.00 Polyphenol vine extracts 0.01-1% Mixture of essential oils 0.02-1% Alcohol 10.00

(24) The different constituents of the composition are mixed to obtain a lotion. This is to be applied in the morning and/or evening to the whole face and the neck, avoiding the contours of the eyes.

(25) TABLE-US-00002 Cream gel Common name % Water QSF 100 Butylene glycol 2.00 C10/30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer 0.25 Xanthan gum 0.15 Hexyldecanol 3.00 Salicylic acid 0.1  Sodium hyaluronate 0.2  Polyphenol vine extracts 0.01-1% Mixture of essential oils 0.02-1% Alcohol 5.00

(26) The cream gel is to be applied in the morning and/or evening to the whole face and the neck, avoiding the contours of the eyes.

(27) TABLE-US-00003 Emulsion Common name % Water QSF 100 Xanthan gum 0.30 Phytic acid 0.05 Salicylic acid 0.1 Coco-caprylate/caprate 3.00 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 5.0 Mixture of C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkyl glucoside 3.00 Polyphenol vine extract 0.01-1% Mixture of essential oils 0.02-1% Mattifying powder 2.0 Alcohol 5

(28) The emulsion is to be applied in the morning and/or evening to the whole face and the neck, avoiding the contours of the eyes.