AQUEOUS CONDITIONING COSMETIC COMPOSITION, COSMETIC PRODUCTS, METHOD OF REPAIR AND PROTECTION OF HAIR PROPERTIES, AND, USE OF A COSMETIC PRODUCT

Abstract

The present invention relates to conditioning cosmetic compositions comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, non-ionic surfactants and cationic polymers. In particular, these compositions are reserved for applications to hair with or without rinsing. In addition, the compositions concern methods of repair, protection, and improvement of hair properties. Additionally, the present invention relates to cosmetic products comprising such cosmetic compositions, such as shampoos, conditioners and hair treatment products, as well as the use thereof.

Claims

1. An aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair, characterized by comprising: at least one non-ionic surfactant comprising ethoxylated fatty alcohols having structure compatible with formula (I), wherein a and b, respectively, ranges from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and ranges from 20 to 100 units of ethylene oxide ##STR00004## and at least one cationic polymer which belongs to the polyquaterniums class of structure compatible with the formulas (II) and (III) wherein n corresponds to the range of 725 to 4,600 repeating units, being n large enough for the aqueous solution of 2% of this polymer to have viscosity between 200 and 900 mPa.Math.s and molar mass between 250 and 900 kDa; x and y correspond, respectively, to the ranges of 3,000 to 18,500 and of 750 to 5,000 repetition units, being x and y large enough so that the polymer has molar mass between 10,000 and 60,000 kDa, ##STR00005## wherein the formula (II) consists of R.sub.1, R.sub.2 e R.sub.3 independently chosen between the groups —H and —(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O)mQ, wherein in corresponds to the range of 1 to 5 units of ethylene oxide and Q is a cationic group of structure compatible with the Formula (IV), so that the charge density and nitrogen content are in the range of 0.8% to 2.2% ##STR00006## wherein the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one cationic polymer are combined with each other in a ratio between their totalities from 99:1 to 80:20 by weight.

2. The aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, characterized by comprising at least two non-ionic surfactants and at least two cationic polymers.

3. The aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of condensation products of fatty alcohols or saturated, unsaturated or β-hydroxy-unsaturated primary or secondary fatty acids with ethylene oxide.

4. (canceled)

5. The aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, wherein a ranges from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

6. The aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, wherein b ranges from 25 to 85 units of ethylene oxide.

7-8. (canceled)

9. The aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one cationic polymer are combined with each other in a ratio between their totalities from 95:5 to 90:10 by weight.

10. The aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant and the at least one cationic polymer are solubilized in water, wherein they are together in the ratio of 50:50 to 20:80 by weight with respect to water.

11. A cosmetic product, characterized by comprising the cosmetic composition as defined in claim 1.

12. The cosmetic product according to claim 11, characterized by comprising from 0.2% to 10.0% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

13. The cosmetic product according to claim 11, characterized by comprising rinsible cosmetic products for hair care, such as shampoos, conditioners, masks or treatment products; and, non-rinsible cosmetic products for hair care, preferably creams for combing, treatment products, ampoules, serums, mists or finishing products.

14. The cosmetic product according to claim 12, characterized by comprising rinsible cosmetic products for hair care, preferably shampoos, conditioners, masks or treatment products; and, non-rinsible cosmetic products for hair care, preferably creams for combing, treatment products, ampoules, serums, mists or finishing products.

15. A method of repair and protection of hair, especially damaged ones, acting in the reduction of damage to the cuticles, increasing of luster, resistance to breakage, hydrophobicity, protein retention, combability, and hair manageability, characterized by comprising the step of applying to the hair cosmetic products as defined in claim 11.

16. Use of a cosmetic product as defined in claim 11, characterized by being in the reduction of damage to the cuticles, increase of luster, resistance to breakage, hydrophobicity, protein retention, combability, and hair manageability.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0029] The detailed description presented below refers to the attached FIGURE, which:

[0030] FIG. 1 represents the images obtained by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of damaged hair strands with and without influence of the conditioning cosmetic composition, corresponding to fractures, fragments and elevations of the cuticles, where the strands in left hand vertical column were untreated and the strands in the right hand vertical column were treated as described herein, and where the strands in the top lateral row were bleached and the strands in the bottom lateral row were both bleached and abraded as described herein.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0031] The present invention is intended to provide conditioning cosmetic compositions for protection and repair of the properties of a damaged hair, more susceptible to future damage.

[0032] The conditioning cosmetic composition, object of this invention, acts in reducing damage to the cuticles, increasing the luster, break strength, hydrophobicity, protein retention, combability, and hair management.

[0033] The conditioning cosmetic composition, object of this invention, comprises the combination of at least one cationic polymer and a non-ionic surfactant, and in other variations at least two cationic polymers and two non-ionic surfactants.

[0034] In one of the embodiments of the aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair, the at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of condensation products of fatty alcohols or saturated, unsaturated or β-hydroxy-unsaturated primary or secondary fatty acids with ethylene oxide.

[0035] In particular embodiments, the at least one non-ionic surfactant comprises ethoxylated fatty alcohols having structure compatible with formula (I), wherein a and b represent the range of carbon atoms and the range of repeating units of ethylene oxide, respectively.

##STR00001##

wherein a corresponds to the range of 6 to 24 carbon atoms, more specifically of 8 to 18; and b corresponds to the range of 20 to 100 units of ethylene oxide, more specifically of 25 to 85.

[0036] Examples of non-ionic surfactants: capreth-10, deceth-3, laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-5, laureth-6, laureth-7, laureth-8, laureth-9, laureth-10, laureth-12, laureth-23, isodeceth-6, isodeceth-8, isodeceth-10, isodeceth-12, isotrideceth-6, isotrideceth-8, isotrideceth-9, C.sub.9-11 pareth-6, C.sub.9-11 pareth-8, myristeth-3, ceteth-20, ceteth-25, ceteth-40, ceteth-50, ceteth-80, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-40, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-60, ceteareth-80, ceteareth-100, steareth-20, steareth-40, steareth-80, cetoleth-10, cetoleth-25, cetoleth-30, PEG-15 castor oil, PEG-20 castor oil, PEG-25 castor oil, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-30 castor oil, PEG-36 castor oil, PEG-40 castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 castor oil, PEG-100 stearate, and oleth-20.

[0037] The at least one non-ionic surfactant is then combined with at least one cationic polymer, which comprises, in certain embodiments, the polyquaterniums class of structure compatible with the formulas (II) and (III), wherein n corresponds to the range of 725 to 4,600 repeating units of hydroxyethyl cationic cellulose, so that n is large enough so the aqueous solution of 2% of this polymer has viscosity between 200 and 900 mPa.Math.s and molar mass between 250 and 900 kDa; x corresponds to the range of 3,000 to 18,500 repetition units of 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine and y corresponds to the range of 750 to 5,000 repetition units of butyl methacrylate, so that x and y are large enough for this copolymer to present molar mass between 10,000 and 60,000 kDa.

##STR00002##

[0038] The cationic polymer of structure compatible with the formula (II) is a modification of hydroxyethyl cellulose, characterized in that R.sub.1, R.sub.2, and R.sub.3 are selected independently from the groups —H and —(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.mQ, wherein in is in the range of 1 to 5 units of ethylene oxide, and Q is a cationic group of structure compatible with the formula (IV), so that they can be chosen from 225 to 1,500 —(CH.sub.2CH.sub.2O).sub.mQ groups by molecule of the polymer to a charge density or contents of nitrogen between 0.8 and 2.2%.

##STR00003##

[0039] Examples of the polymers cationic: polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-67, and polyquaternium-76.

[0040] With regard to the aqueous conditioning cosmetic composition for hair, non-ionic surfactants and cationic polymers are combined with each other in a ratio of 99:1 to 80:20 by weight or 95:5 to 90:10 by weight.

[0041] In certain embodiments, the at least one non-ionic surfactant and at least one cationic polymer are solubilized in water in the ratio of 50:50 to 20:80 by weight.

[0042] The present invention also refers to rinseable and non-rinseable products cosmetic products containing said cosmetic composition, being them, shampoos, conditioners, masks or treatment products, combing creams, ampoules, serums, mists or finishing products, among others; as well as the method of repair and protection of damaged hair, comprising the steps of application to the hair of cosmetic products containing said conditioning cosmetic composition.

[0043] Regarding the cosmetic product, it comprises from 0.2% to 10.0% by weight of the cosmetic composition, and may optionally include surfactants, emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, pH regulators, water, among others.

[0044] Concrete but non-limiting examples of formulations of hair products containing the conditioning cosmetic composition illustrating the present invention are provided below.

Examples

[0045]

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Examples of formulations of hair products containing the conditioning cosmetic composition Combing Shampoo Shampoo Conditioner Conditioner Mask cream Ampoule Ingredient (I) (II) (I) (II) (I) (I) (I) (Conditioning 2.0% 2.0% 1.0% 2.0% 2.0% 1.0% 2.0% cosmetic composition) Sodium Laureth 9.0% 9.0% — — — — — Sulfate Cocoamidopropyl 2.5% 2.5% — — — — — Betaine Cetearyl Alcohol — — 4.0% 4.0% 4.0% 3.0% 5.0% Ceteareth-20 — — — 0.3% — — — Sorbitan Laurate — — — — 0.4% — — Decyl Glucoside — — — — 0.5% — — Behentrimonium — — 2.0% 0.8% 0.8% 0.8% 0.8% Chloride Paraffinum — — — 1.0% — — — Liquidum (Mineral Oil) Dimethicone — 0.5% — — — — — Amodimethicone — — — — — 0.5% — Isoamyl Cocoate — — — — 1.0% — — Guar — 0.2% — 0.2% — — — Hydroxypropyl- trimonium Chloride Sorbeth-450 — — — — — — 4.0% Triestearate (and) PEG-9 Cocoate (and) PEG-32 Distearate (and) PEG-175 Distearate Sodium Laureth — 2.0% — — — — — Sulfate (and) Glycol Distearate (and) Cocamide DEA Aloe Vera Leaf — — — — 1.0% — — Extract Hydrolyzed Wheat — — — — 0.5% — 0.5% Protein Glycerin — — — 0.1% 0.2% — — (Preservative) q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. (Fragrance) q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. (pH regulator) q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. Aqua q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p. q.s.p.

[0046] The method of protection and repair of hair properties comprises the step of applying to the hair the cosmetic products containing the conditioning cosmetic composition as previously defined.

[0047] Conditioning agents, with continuous use in hair products, can result in the phenomenon called build-up, which is an excessive deposition of the conditioning agents in the hair perceived by the consumer as heavy and dirty hair. The composition in question, because it presents a synergistic effect between the components of the mixture, allows the benefit of conditioning to be achieved without excess deposition (build-up), widely associated with the use of silicones and their derivatives.

[0048] The hair conditioning can be perceived by the consumer through such attributes as softness, luster, less breakage of the strands and ease of combing. The conditioning composition in question acts more holistically when compared to the known state of the art, because it acts not only in the recovery of damaged strands, but also in the protection of the strands from new aggressions. The improvement in hair attributes was determined by instrumental methods and validated according to the perception of the final consumer of the product (shampoo and conditioner). Validation was carried out through the evaluation of experts in the application of hair care products and by volunteers with hair damaged by chemical treatment (bleaching). Aspects such as luster, combability, moisturization, softness, mechanical strength, increased contact angle, strength against breakage testify to the conditioning of the strands.

Efficacy Tests

[0049] The hair hydrophobicity (Table 2) can be quantified by the interaction between the hair and water through the contact angle between the water/hair and water/air interfaces. The higher the contact angle, the lower the interaction of water with the hair and the more hydrophobic is its surface. The contact angle was measured by the method of Wilhelmy, in which the Caucasian hair strands type III damaged by bleaching, without treatment, and treated with a 10% aqueous solution of the conditioning cosmetic composition, are immersed in 1.2 mm from the surface of the water, at a rate of 2.5 min/min by the mechanical arm of a force tensiometer (Krüss K 100, Germany) in order to measure the force required to detach a hair from the water.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Performance of the conditioning cosmetic composition in different attributes. Treated with the Conditioning Without Cosmetic Attribute Treatment Composition Hydrophobicity (º) 41 + 4  59 + 1  Cuticle damage (% pixel) 21.0 + 0.5  18.9 + 0.3  Cuticle damage after abrasion (% pixel) 22.1 + 0.9  20.0 + 0.9  Abrasion resistance after conditioner 3.3 + 0.5 0.8 + 0.8 (# breaks) Abrasion resistance after combing 5.3 + 0.5 2.0 + 0.0 cream (# breaks) Luster (BNT luster units) 31.5 + 1.8  33.8 + 2.6  Protein loss (wt %) 0.61 + 0.09 0.25 + 0.06 Maximum strength for combing after 15.60 + 5.22  7.11 + 1.64 shampoo (N) Maximum strength for combing after 6.90 + 1.24 0.25 + 0.06 full regime (N)

[0050] Cuticle damage (Table 2) is quantified from scanning electron microscopy (Zeiss DSM 940 a, Germany) at 15 kV and 750× of hair strands with and without treatment. The treatment consists of application of shampoo (I) and conditioner (I), conditioning the samples at 22° C. and 55% relative humidity (RH). The procedure is performed on Caucasian Type III strands damaged by bleaching and covered with 90 Å of gold (Balzers SCD 050 Sputter Coater, Liechtenstein), in order to confer the restructuring potential, i.e. the ability to repair the damage to the cuticles, as well as on strands damaged and treated after the abrasion of 1,500 automated combing strokes (Bioluz BLPA 101, Brazil), to confer the protection of the cuticles from damage.

[0051] Micrographs of damaged hair strands with and without influence of the conditioning cosmetic composition (FIG. 1) are graphically treated (Scion Image, United States) to quantify the area, in pixels, corresponding to fractures, fragments and elevations of the cuticles.

[0052] The strength of the strands was measured by abrasion resistance (Table 2), wherein strands of 3 g and 25 cm long Caucasian Type III hair, with and without treatment, were subjected to 10,000 automated combing strokes (Bioluz BLPA 101, Brazil), manually assessing the number of breakages. The lower this number, the higher the hair's resistance to breakage. The treatment was performed independently with conditioner (II) and combing cream (I), conditioning the samples at 22° C. and 55% RH.

[0053] The luster (Table 2) of the hair was instrumentally quantified (Samba Hair, United States) in strands of 2 g and 20 cm long Caucasian hair type III, before and after 6 cycles of washing with shampoo (I).

[0054] Protein retention is quantified from the amount of protein extracted from the strands, i.e. protein loss (Table 2) by Lowry's colorimetric method. Locks of Caucasian hair type III of 0.5 g were bleached and subjected to 10 cycles of washing with conditioner (II). The locks of hair were incubated in water at 50° C. and 300 rpm for 4 h. To each 1 mL of the solution containing the extracted proteins was added 0.9 mL of a mixture of tartrate 7 mM/carbonate 0.81 m/NaOH 0.5 m, incubating at 50° C. for 10 min. To this portion was added 0.1 mL of a mixture of tartrate 70 mm/Cu.sup.2+ 40 mM, incubating at 50° C., for 10 min. To this portion were added 3 mL of a 10% solution (v/v) of Folin-Ciocalteau 2 M, incubating for 10 min and performing and reading the absorbance at 750 nm in UV-Visible Spectrophotometer (Varian Cary 1E, United States). Through an analytical curve of BSA, the absorbance value is correlated with protein concentration through Lambert-Beer law.

[0055] The instrumental combability (Texturometer Stable Micro Systems TA.XT, UK) is equivalent to the maximum combing force (Table 2), sliding the comb from the root to the tips of a strand of 3 g and 25 cm long Caucasian hair type III, before and after treatment. The treatment was performed independently with Shampoo (I) and with a regimen that consisted of Shampoo (I) followed by Conditioner (I) and Combing cream (I). The management of the strands depends not only on combability, but on a holistic assessment of other hair attributes (Table 3), conducted from sensory analysis with 10 female volunteers, aged 49±8 years, conditioned for 48 hours without the use of hair products. The performed treatment consisted of a Shampoo (I) and Conditioner (I) regimen with massage for 1 min, action for 1 min, rinse for 1 min, use of dryer and finishing with the Combing cream (I).

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Approval rates after treatment with conditioning cosmetic composition. Professional assessment Perception of volunteers Attribute Wet Hair Dry Hair Wet Hair Dry Hair Luster 100% 100%  90%  90% Conditioning 100% 100% 100% 100% Hydration 100%  70% 100% 100% Softness 100%  90% 100% 100% Ease in combing 100% 100% 100%  90% Smooth touch 100%  80% 100% 100%

[0056] The description recited so far of the object of the present invention should be considered only as possible embodiments and/or achievements, and any particular characteristics introduced therein should be understood only as something that has been written to facilitate comprehension. Thus, it should not be considered as limiting the invention, which is limited to the scope of the claims that follow.