COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR FORMING A FILM HAVING ELEVATED ELASTICITY AND EXTENSIBILITY
20230149289 · 2023-05-18
Inventors
Cpc classification
International classification
Abstract
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one aqueous polyurethane dispersion and 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, based on the at least one polyurethane dispersion, of a mixture comprising at least one alkanediol, to a process for production thereof, to the use thereof for application to the skin and/or hair, preferably on facial skin, and to a cosmetic process for cleansing and caring for the skin and/or hair and/or nails and/or for applying a decorative effect to the skin and/or hair and/or nails, comprising applying the cosmetic composition according to the invention to the skin and/or hair and/or nails and optionally thereafter removing the composition from the skin and/or hair and/or nails.
Claims
1. A cosmetic composition, comprising at least one aqueous polyurethane dispersion and 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, based on the at least one aqueous polyurethane dispersion, of a mixture comprising at least one alkanediol.
2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one alkanediol is selected from the group consisting of 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol (CAS 2163-42-0), 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol, CAS 1117-86-8), isomers thereof and mixtures thereof.
3. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the mixture comprises 2 methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), and 3-phenylpropanol.
4. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claim 1, wherein the mixture comprises 70 to 89% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 10 to 30% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), and 1 to 5% by weight 3-phenylpropanol based on a total weight of the mixture.
5. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claim 1, wherein the at least one aqueous polyurethane dispersion comprises at least one polyurethane obtained by reacting one or more water-insoluble, non-water-dispersible, isocyanate-functional polyurethane prepolymers A) with at least one amino-functional compound B).
6. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 5, wherein the prepolymers A) used to produce the at least one polyurethane is obtained by reacting at least one polyisocyanate and one or more polyols selected from the group consisting of polyether polyols, polycarbonate polyols, polyether-polycarbonate polyols, polyester polyols and mixtures thereof.
7. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 6, wherein the at least one polyisocyanate is selected from the group consisting of 1,4-butylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI), 2,2,4- and/or 2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, the isomeric bis(4,4′-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methanes or mixtures thereof of any desired isomer content, 1,4-cyclohexylene diisocyanate, 4-isocyanatomethyl-1,8-octane diisocyanate (nonane triisocyanate), 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 2,4- and/or 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, 2,2′- and/or 2,4′- and/or 4,4′-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,3- and/or 1,4-bis(2-isocyanatoprop-2-yl)benzene (TMXDI), 1,3-bis(isocyanatomethyl)benzene (XDI) and alkyl-2,6-diisocyanatohexanoates (lysine diisocyanates) having C.sub.1-C.sub.8-alkyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
8. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claim 1, wherein the at least one aqueous polyurethane dispersion is present to an extent of 1 to 90% by weight, based on the solids content of the composition.
9. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claim 5, wherein the at least one amino-functional compound B) comprises at least one diamine.
10. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claim 5, wherein the at least one amino-functional compound B) comprises at least one amino-functional compound B1) having no ionic and/or ionogenic groups, wherein the at least one amino-functional compound B1) is incorporated into the at least one polyurethane.
11. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claim 5, wherein the at least one amino-functional compound B) comprises at least one amino-functional compound B2) having ionic and/or ionogenic groups, wherein the at least one amino-functional compound B2) is incorporated into the at least one polyurethane.
12. A process for the preparing the cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 comprising mixing and/or dispersing the at least one aqueous polyurethane dispersion and the mixture.
13. A method of forming a film on the skin and/or hair and/or nails after application, comprising applying the cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 to the skin and/or hair and/or nails.
14. A cosmetic process for cleansing and caring for the skin and/or of hair and/or of nails and/or for applying a decorative effect to the skin and/or hair and/or nails, comprising applying the cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 to the skin and/or hair and/or nails and optionally thereafter removing the composition from the skin and/or hair and/or nails.
Description
EXAMPLES
[0303] The aqueous polyurethane dispersions PU1 to PU5 listed in Table 1 are prepared as follows: Aqueous polyurethane dispersion PU 1:
[0304] 318.8 g of a polyester composed of adipic acid, hexanediol and neopentyl glycol having a number-average molecular weight of 1700 g/mol were heated to 65° C. Then 87.9 g of Desmodur® W were added and the mixture was stirred at 125° C. until the NCO content had fallen below the theoretical NCO content. The molar ratio of isocyanate groups to hydroxyl groups in the prepolymer step was 1.79. The finished prepolymer was dissolved in 720 g of acetone at 50° C. and then a solution of 33.9 g of diaminosulfonate, 1.6 g of ethylenediamine and 102 g of water was added. The post-stirring time was 15 min. The mixture was then dispersed by addition of 515 g of water. The solvent was removed by distillation under reduced pressure and a storage-stable dispersion was obtained. The solids content was adjusted to 40% by weight by adding water.
[0305] Aqueous polyurethane dispersion PU 2:
[0306] 1360.0 g of a polyester composed of adipic acid, hexanediol and neopentyl glycol having an average molecular weight of 1700 g/mol were heated to 65° C. Subsequently, 318.5 kg of isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) were added and the mixture was stirred at 105° C. until the NCO value had gone below the theoretical value. The finished prepolymer was dissolved with 3000 g of acetone at 50° C. and then a solution of 23.4 g of isophoronediamine (IPDA), 129.6 g of diaminosulfonate and 357 g of water was metered in. The post-stirring time was 15 min. The mixture was then dispersed by addition of 2900 g of water. Subsequently, the solvent was removed by distillation under reduced pressure, and a storage-stable dispersion was obtained; the solids content was adjusted by addition of water.
[0307] Solids content: 32% by weight
[0308] Particle size (LCS): 27 nm
[0309] Viscosity: 1500 mPas
[0310] pH: 7.3
[0311] Aqueous polyurethane dispersion PU 3:
[0312] 1649.0 g of a polyester composed of adipic acid, hexanediol and neopentyl glycol having an average molecular weight of 1700 g/mol (component A2)) were heated to 65° C. Subsequently, 291.7 kg of hexamethylene diisocyanate (component A1)) were added and the mixture was stirred at 100 to 115° C. until the NCO value had gone below the theoretical value. The finished prepolymer was dissolved with 3450 g of acetone at 50° C. and then a solution of 16.8 g of ethylenediamine (component B1)), 109.7 g of diaminosulfonate (component B2)) and 425 g of water was metered in. The post-stirring time was 15 min. The mixture was then dispersed by addition of 1880 g of water.
[0313] This was followed by removal of the solvent by distillation under reduced pressure to obtain a storage-stable dispersion.
[0314] Solids content: 42% by weight
[0315] Particle size (LCS): 168 nm
[0316] Viscosity: 425 mPas
[0317] pH: 7.07
[0318] Aqueous polyurethane dispersion PU 4:
[0319] 340 g of a polyester composed of adipic acid, hexanediol and neopentyl glycol having an average molecular weight of 1700 g/mol (component A2)) were heated to 65° C. Subsequently, 60.1 kg of hexamethylene diisocyanate (component A1)) were added and the mixture was stirred at 105° C. until the NCO value had gone below the theoretical value. The finished prepolymer was dissolved with 711 g of acetone at 50° C. and then a solution of 2.1 g of ethylenediamine (component B1)), 32.4 g of diaminosulfonate (component B2)) and 104.3 g of water was metered in. The post-stirring time was 15 min. The mixture was then dispersed by addition of 1880 g of water. This was followed by removal of the solvent by distillation under reduced pressure to obtain a storage-stable dispersion.
[0320] Solids content: 40% by weight
[0321] Particle size (LCS): 198 nm
[0322] Viscosity: 700 mPas
[0323] pH: 6.31
[0324] Aqueous polyurethane dispersion PU 5:
[0325] 450 g of PolyTHF® 1000 (component A2)) and 2100 g of PolyTHF® 2000 (component A2)) were heated to 70° C. Subsequently, a mixture of 225.8 g of hexamethylene diisocyanate (component A1)) and 298.4 g of isophorone diisocyanate (component A1)) was added, and the mixture was stirred at 100 to 115° C. until the NCO value had gone below the theoretical value. The finished prepolymer was dissolved with 5460 g of acetone at 50° C. and then a solution of 351 g of diaminosulfonate (component B2)) and 610 g of water was metered in. The post-stirring time was 15 min. The mixture was then dispersed by addition of 1880 g of water. This was followed by removal of the solvent by distillation under reduced pressure to obtain a storage-stable dispersion.
[0326] Solids content: 40% by weight
[0327] Viscosity: 1370 mPas
[0328] The cosmetic compositions 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 2, 3, 4, 5, 5.1, 6 and 7 according to the invention and the comparative compositions V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V8, V9, V10, V11, V12, V13, V14 and V15 shown in Table 1 are prepared from the polyurethane dispersions PU 1 to 5 described according to the following general procedures.
[0329] 3-Phenylpropanol and/or 1,2-octanediol were added to 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and dissolved with stirring on a magnetic stirrer with a suitable magnetic stirrer bar in order to prepare the solutions. These solutions are then added to the aqueous polyurethane dispersions at the desired concentration and mixed.
TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Experiment number Composition of the tested dispersion C1 PU 1 C2 PU 2 C3 PU 3 C4 PU 4 C5 PU 5 1 PU 1 + 1.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 81.7% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 15% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 3.3% by weight 3-phenylpropanol 1.1 PU 1 + 1.5% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 1.2 PU 1 + 1.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 30% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 70% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 1.3 PU 1 + 1.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 5% by weight 3-phenylpropanol and 95% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 2 PU 2 + 1.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 81.7% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 15% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 3.3% by weight 3-phenylpropanol 3 PU 3 + 1.5 AD 4 PU 4 + 1.5 AD 5 PU 5 + 1.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 81.7% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 15% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 3.3% by weight 3-phenylpropanol 5.1 PU 5 + 1.5% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 6 PU 1 + 0.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 81.7% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 15% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 3.3% by weight 3-phenylpropanol 7 PU 1 + 5.0% by weight of a solution consisting of 81.7% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 15% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 3.3% by weight 3-phenylpropanol C8 Dermacryl ® C, INCI Name: Acrylate Copolymer (Nouryon) C9 Dermacryl ® C, INCI Name: Acrylate Copolymer (Nouryon) + 1.5% by weight of a solution consisting of 81.7% by weight 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 15% by weight 1,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol) and 3.3% by weight 3-phenyl-propanol C10 PU 2 + 1.0% by weight ethylene glycol C11 PU 2 + 0.5% by weight ethylene glycol C12 PU 2 + 1.0% by weight propylene glycol C13 PU 2 + 0.5% by weight propylene glycol C14 PU 1 + 1.5% by weight ethylene glycol C15 PU 1 + 1.5% by weight propylene glycol
[0330] The amounts stated are each based on the total dispersion.
[0331] C Comparative Experiment
[0332] 3. Method of Measurement
[0333] In each case, polymeric films are prepared with the dispersions specified in Table 1. For this purpose, a film is applied to release paper with the aid of a slotted doctor knife. The doctor knife is placed on the paper. In front of the slotted doctor blade, the liquid solution is applied to the paper with a pipette. A thin film, ca. 0.5 mm thick, is applied between the gap and the paper by peeling it off. This film is dried for 24 hours until it is no longer damp and is completely cured. Sample of ca 4 mm length are cut to generate hysteresis curves. A ZwickiZ2.5 tensiometer from Zwick Roell was used for the measurements.
[0334] The hysteresis measurements were carried out as follows:
[0335] Elongation 100% (see Tables 2, 3 and 4):
[0336] A load is applied to the samples to lengthen them to 100% elongation at a rate of 50 mm/min. Then the load is removed until the specimen has assumed the length of the original length—remaining elongated. This procedure is repeated ten times with each sample.
[0337] Elongation 500% (see Tables 5, 6 and 7):
[0338] A load is applied to the specimens to elongate them stepwise to a lengthening of 50 to 500% at a rate of 50 mm/min. After each lengthening, the load is removed until the specimen has assumed the length of the original length—remaining elongated.
TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Remaining elongation 100%, the remaining elongation after up to 10 times elongating to 100% is shown in %, in each case based on the original sample length Number of No. elongations C1 1 Δ to C1 C2 2 Δ to C2 C5 5 Δ to C5 1 21.12 13.10 8.02 10.15 7.15 3.40 9.90 6.45 3.45 2 23.59 15.12 8.47 12.57 9.17 3.39 11.90 7.79 4.11 3 25.01 16.28 8.72 13.84 10.28 3.56 13.01 8.59 4.41 4 26.01 17.23 8.78 14.57 11.06 3.50 13.87 9.29 4.58 5 26.76 17.82 8.94 15.35 11.88 3.47 14.65 9.73 4.92 6 27.45 18.31 9.14 15.84 12.34 3.50 15.17 10.07 5.11 7 27.82 18.81 9.00 16.40 12.76 3.64 15.65 10.43 5.22 8 28.23 19.21 9.03 16.79 13.27 3.52 16.06 10.65 5.42 9 28.70 19.51 9.19 17.12 13.54 3.58 16.42 10.90 5.53 10 28.98 19.87 9.10 17.65 13.90 3.74 16.76 11.09 5.67 C comparative experiment
TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Remaining elongation 100%, the remaining elongation after up to 10 times elongating to 100% is shown in %, in each case based on the original sample length Number of No. elongations C1 1.1 Δ to C1 1.2 Δ to C1 1.3 Δ to C1 C5 5.1 Δ to C5 1 21.12 12.84 8.28 12.01 9.11 13.2 7.92 9.9 7.79 2.11 2 23.59 15.01 8.58 14.28 9.31 15.32 8.27 11.9 9.40 2.50 3 25.01 16.2 8.81 15.67 9.34 16.65 8.36 13.01 10.37 2.64 4 26.01 17.06 8.95 16.62 9.39 17.53 8.48 13.87 11.12 2.75 5 26.76 17.76 9.00 17.23 9.53 18.43 8.33 14.65 11.73 2.92 6 27.45 18.37 9.08 18.12 9.33 18.92 8.53 15.17 12.17 3.00 7 27.82 18.76 9.06 18.59 9.23 19.45 8.37 15.65 12.59 3.06 8 28.23 19.29 8.94 19.03 9.2 19.95 8.28 16.06 12.84 3.22 9 28.7 19.67 9.03 19.46 9.24 20.42 8.28 16.42 13.15 3.27 10 28.98 19.99 8.99 19.85 9.13 20.73 8.25 16.76 13.42 3.34 C comparative experiment
TABLE-US-00004 TABLE 4 Remaining elongation 100%, the remaining elongation after up to 10 times elongating to 100% is shown in %, in each case based on the original sample length No. Δ between Number of C8 and elongations C1 6 Δ to C1 7 Δ to C1 C8 C9 C9 C10 C11 C12 C13 C14 C15 1 21.12 18.79 2.33 9.70 11.42 36.71 39.62 −2.91 14.96 17.40 12.02 12.51 13.66 13.26 2 23.59 21.34 2.25 11.84 11.75 41.56 44.70 −3.14 19.20 22.24 15.46 15.23 16.01 15.52 3 25.01 22.98 2.03 13.29 11.72 43.9 47.17 −3.27 21.70 24.78 16.96 17.51 17.47 16.84 4 26.01 23.98 2.03 14.29 11.72 46.56 49.78 −3.22 23.60 27.63 18.69 18.81 18.52 17.87 5 26.76 24.71 2.05 15.29 11.47 47.88 51.26 −3.38 25.05 29.50 19.57 19.90 19.40 18.72 6 27.45 25.48 1.97 15.96 11.49 48.24 52.45 −4.21 26.25 30.74 20.44 20.80 20.15 19.46 7 27.82 25.98 1.84 16.59 11.23 50.03 53.76 −3.73 27.26 32.47 21.00 21.63 20.75 20.09 8 28.23 26.37 1.86 17.23 11.00 50.51 53.81 −3.30 28.24 33.46 21.73 22.62 21.22 20.65 9 28.7 26.82 1.88 17.76 10.94 51.4 54.73 −3.33 28.92 34.11 22.38 23.18 21.66 20.95 10 28.98 27.18 1.8 18.29 10.69 51.95 55.45 −3.5 29.59 34.79 22.94 23.72 22.10 21.25 C comparative experiment
TABLE-US-00005 TABLE 5 Remaining elongation 500%, the remaining elongation is shown after increasing elongation in 50% steps up to 500%, in each case based on the original sample length Elongation No. [%] C1 1 Δ to C1 C2 2 Δ to C2 C3 3 Δ to C3 C4 4 Δ to C4 C5 5 Δ to C5 50 11.01 6.23 4.78 3.23 4.15 −0.92 2.76 1.04 1.73 3.42 −0.17 4.00 4.54 4.01 0.13 100 21.17 12.73 8.44 8.54 8.12 0.42 5.70 3.48 2.22 6.70 2.92 3.78 9.26 7.54 1.72 150 30.45 18.90 11.55 13.93 12.15 1.78 8.87 6.45 2.42 10.65 6.89 3.75 14.23 10.98 3.25 200 38.98 25.12 13.86 19.29 16.29 3.00 11.92 9.48 2.45 14.68 11.37 3.31 19.23 14.54 4.69 250 48.06 31.45 16.61 24.59 20.14 4.06 15.23 12.73 2.50 18.87 15.59 3.28 24.45 17.95 6.50 300 57.34 38.26 19.09 30.29 25.12 5.16 18.90 15.73 3.17 23.13 19.53 3.59 29.65 20.92 8.72 350 66.87 46.17 20.69 35.93 29.92 6.01 23.09 19.17 3.92 27.93 24.04 3.89 35.09 23.62 11.47 400 76.70 53.53 23.17 41.93 35.04 6.89 27.88 22.90 4.98 32.76 28.56 4.20 40.81 26.49 14.33 450 86.76 61.81 24.95 48.37 40.19 7.78 33.65 27.24 6.41 37.95 33.81 4.14 46.49 29.48 17.01 500 96.54 70.11 26.02 55.18 46.26 8.93 39.59 31.76 7.83 43.82 39.18 4.63 53.15 32.87 20.28 C comparative experiment
TABLE-US-00006 TABLE 6 Remaining elongation 500%, the remaining elongation is shown after increasing elongation in 50% steps up to 500%, in each case based on the original sample length No.: Elongation C5 [%] C1 1.1 Δ to C1 1.2 Δ to C1 1.3 Δ to C1 PU 5 5.1 Δ to C5 50 11.01 6.59 4.42 5.87 5.14 6.45 4.56 4.54 4.59 −0.05 100 21.17 13.65 7.52 12.02 9.15 13.37 7.80 9.26 8.62 0.64 150 30.45 20.53 9.92 18.12 12.33 20.12 10.33 14.23 13.01 1.22 200 38.98 27.56 11.42 24.4 14.58 27.09 11.89 19.23 17.26 1.97 250 48.06 34.76 13.3 30.98 17.08 34.42 13.64 24.45 21.59 2.86 300 57.34 42.33 15.01 37.98 19.36 41.96 15.38 29.65 25.62 4.03 350 66.87 50.06 16.81 45.51 21.36 49.67 17.20 35.09 29.78 5.31 400 76.7 59.12 17.58 53.51 23.19 57.96 18.74 40.81 33.67 7.14 450 86.76 68.24 18.52 62.04 24.72 67.4 19.36 46.49 37.93 8.56 500 96.54 77.65 18.89 71.87 24.67 76.87 19.67 53.15 42.51 10.64 C comparative experiment
TABLE-US-00007 TABLE 7 Remaining elongation 500%, the remaining elongation is shown after increasing elongation in 50% steps up to 500%, in each case based on the original sample length Elongation No.: [%] C1 6 Δ to C1 7 Δ to C1 C10 C11 C12 C13 C14 C15 50 11.01 9.51 1.50 4.84 6.17 7.65 6.98 5.58 5.42 8.78 6.74 100 21.17 18.37 2.80 9.51 11.66 15.66 14.9 11.28 11.27 16.52 13.38 150 30.45 26.95 3.50 14.76 15.69 23.81 22.26 17.28 16.81 24.07 19.94 200 38.98 34.9 4.08 20.37 18.61 33.05 31.17 22.88 22.68 31.58 26.45 250 48.06 43.4 4.66 26.59 21.47 42.37 39.64 28.00 28.46 39.86 33.45 300 57.34 51.92 5.42 33.17 24.17 51.87 48.42 33.46 34.43 47.84 40.57 350 66.87 60.87 6.00 40.14 26.73 61.77 56.36 38.27 39.19 56.34 48.39 400 76.7 70.12 6.58 47.26 29.44 72.89 65.02 44.96 45.07 65.54 56.65 450 86.76 79.87 6.89 55.12 31.64 81.57 72.4 49.93 51.27 75.33 65.21 500 96.54 90.12 6.42 63.23 33.31 — — — — C comparative experiment