ACTIVE INGREDIENT COMPLEX FOR COSMETIC PREPARATIONS

Abstract

An active ingredient combination which comprises one or more caviar extracts and mannose phosphate and/or sodium mannose phosphate.

Claims

1. An active ingredient combination, wherein the combination comprises (a) one or more caviar extracts, and (b) mannose phosphate and/or sodium mannose phosphate.

2. The active ingredient combination of claim 1, wherein the one or more caviar extracts have been obtained from fish eggs of white sturgeon (Acipenser transmontanus) and/or of Siberian sturgeon (Acipenser baerii).

3. The active ingredient combination of claim 1, wherein at least one of the one or more caviar extracts has been obtained by a process comprising (1) homogenizing provided fish eggs in at least one solvent, (2) extracting at least one liquid phase from the homogenizate obtained in (1) to obtain the extract, and (3) optionally filtering the extract obtained in (2) in order to remove solid suspended materials from the extract.

4. The active ingredient combination of claim 3, wherein the active ingredient combination contains a caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least oil is added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs, the oil phase being extracted.

5. The active ingredient combination of claim 4, wherein the oil comprises one or more triglycerides.

6. The active ingredient combination of claim 3, wherein the combination comprises at least one caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least water and/or a glycol are added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs.

7. The active ingredient combination of claim 6, wherein the aqueous phase is extracted to obtain the at least one caviar extract.

8. The active ingredient combination of claim 1, wherein the combination comprises at least two different caviar extracts.

9. The active ingredient combination of claim 8, wherein the combination comprises (i) a lipophilic caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least oil is added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs and in which an oil phase is extracted to obtain the extract, and (ii) a hydrophilic or glycolic caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least water and/or a glycol are added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs and in which an aqueous phase is extracted to obtain the second extract.

10. The active ingredient combination of claim 3, wherein the preparation comprises at least three different caviar extracts.

11. The active ingredient combination of claim 10, wherein the preparation comprises a first lipophilic caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least oil is added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs and in which an oil phase is extracted to obtain a lipophilic caviar extract, a second aqueous caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least water, but no glycol, is added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs and in which an aqueous phase is extracted to obtain the aqueous caviar extract, and a third glycolic caviar extract, in the preparation of which at least glycol is added as solvent during the homogenization of the fish eggs and in which a glycolic phase is extracted to obtain the third caviar extract.

12. The active ingredient combination of claim 4, wherein a proportion by weight of the fish eggs to added oil phase during the homogenization is from 1:0.1 to 1:1.

13. The active ingredient combination of claim 3, wherein water is added for the homogenization and the proportion by weight of the fish eggs to aqueous phase formed by addition of water is from 1:10 to 1:1.

14. The active ingredient combination of claim 9, wherein a ratio by weight of the fish eggs to added glycol is from 1:0.1 to 1:100.

15. The active ingredient combination of claim 9, wherein a ratio by weight of lipophilic caviar extract to aqueous caviar extract is from 50:1 to 1:10.

16. The active ingredient combination of claim 11, wherein a ratio by weight of lipophilic caviar extract to glycolic caviar extract is from 50:1 to 1:50.

17. The active ingredient combination of claim 1, wherein a ratio by weight of all caviar extracts present to mannose phosphate and/or sodium mannose phosphate is from 200:1 to 1:50.

18. The active ingredient combination of claim 1, wherein the active ingredient combination further comprises mannose.

19. A cosmetic preparation, wherein the cosmetic preparation comprises the active ingredient combination of claim 1.

20. A method of increasing the expression of collagen I and for reducing skin ageing phenomena and/or for reinforcing the retinaculum cutis and/or the connective tissue strands in human skin, wherein the method comprises applying to skin in need thereof the active ingredient combination of claim 1.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS

[0159] The particulars shown herein are by way of example and for purposes of illustrative discussion of the embodiments of the present invention only and are presented in the cause of providing what is believed to be the most useful and readily understood description of the principles and conceptual aspects of the present invention. In this regard, no attempt is made to show details of the present invention in more detail than is necessary for the fundamental understanding of the present invention, the description making apparent to those of skill in the art how the several forms of the present invention may be embodied in practice.

Comparative Experiments and Examples

[0160] Unless otherwise indicated, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

[0161] The efficacy of the invention was verified in an ELISA test. ELISA (enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay) is a widespread method for detecting individual proteins. It utilizes the mechanisms of the immune system: If a substance is recognized as foreign by the immune system, the latter forms “antibodies” that bind to the foreign molecule and thus tag it.

[0162] To perform the experiments, hypodermis (from mammoplasty operations) from a healthy donor (56 years of age) was used. The hypodermis was prepared and weighed out into approximately 200 mg pieces. The tissue was cultured in a submersed state in defined and serum-free hypodermis tissue culture medium (CB-EM-HYP) in an actively humidified biomedical incubator (Memmert, Germany) at 37° C. and 5% CO2.

[0163] Overnight cultivation was followed by substitution with fresh tissue culture medium. Explants were cultivated either in the presence or absence of test samples.

[0164] Over a period of 10 days, the medium was replaced daily with freshly supplemented test samples or with normal media without test samples.

[0165] After 10 days of treatment, a portion of the tissue samples was processed for the extraction of ECM proteins.

[0166] Isolated ECM was subjected to a protein estimation in accordance with the BCA method (Bicinchoninic Acid) (Sigma Aldrich), and ELISAs (Biotechne) corresponding to the antigen collagen1A2 were performed according to the manufacturer's protocol using the same amounts of proteins as were estimated from the BCA assay. A sensitive filter-based microplate reader (Accuris, USA) was used to perform readout. The ELISA results (% difference) were presented as percentage compared to the untreated control with mean value+/−SEM with repetitions in triplicate execution/condition.

[0167] The following test samples were investigated: [0168] A. Glycolic caviar extract containing approx. 6% fish egg material, 10% water and propylene glycol ad 100. This extract was obtained from an extraction with propylene glycol of a homogenizate from fish eggs of Acipenser baerii. This extract is available commercially under the trade name Caviar B Glycolysat CH from Mibelle Biochemistry Group. [0169] B. Aqueous caviar extract comprising approx. 21% fish egg material, 1% phenoxyethanol, 5% glycerol, 1% glycine, 0.5% xanthan gum, 0.2% galactaric acid and water ad 100. This extract was obtained from an extraction with water, glycine, xanthan gum and phenoxyethanol and galactaric acid of a homogenizate from fish eggs of Acipenser baerii. This extract is available commercially under the trade name Caviar B HydroEssence CH from Mibelle Biochemistry Group. [0170] C. Lipophilic caviar extract containing 40% fish egg material, 0.02% tocopherol, 1% by weight phenoxyethanol and triglycerides ad 100. This extract was obtained from an extraction with triglycerides and phenoxyethanol of a homogenizate from fish eggs of Acipenser baerii. This extract is available commercially under the trade name Caviar B LipoEssence CH from Mibelle Biochemistry Group. [0171] D. Mixture of glycerol, water, sodium mannose 6-phosphate and mannose. Agefinity commercial product from Givaudan. The proportion of sodium mannose 6-phosphate is 2.5% by weight. The proportion of mannose is 2.5% by weight.

[0172] The following table specifies the use concentrations of the extracts and of mixture D which were used in the comparative experiment against an untreated control.

TABLE-US-00003 Expression of collagen I A2 in % relative to the control Test sample (100%) Control (without addition) 100% 0.5% A  73% 0.5% B  36% 0.05% C  98% 1% D 132% 1% mixture of A, B, C and D (ratios by 347% weight of A/B/C/D: 1/0.1/1/4)

[0173] The measurements performed clearly show that there is an involvement of synergy between the caviar extracts and mannose phosphate. The additions of propylene glycol, glycerol, glycine, water, phenoxyethanol, triglycerides and galactaric acid alone do not show any increase in the expression of collagen I.

[0174] The expression of thrombospondin 1 as a result of use was also investigated in the same screening. Compared to a control, the samples comprising the glycolic extract A did not show any increase in the expression of thrombospondin 1 (control 100%, extract A 46%). The same applies for the expression of thrombospondin 1 with the use of the aqueous extract B (65%). When using the lipophilic extract C, an expression of thrombospondin 1 of 299% compared to the control=100% could be achieved. The mixture D exhibited an expression of thrombospondin 1 of 118%. When using the mixture of A, B, C and D (ratios by weight of A/B/C/D: 1/0.1/1/4), a surprisingly strong expression of 360% could be achieved.

[0175] All measurement results shown for the mixture A/B/C/D are significantly (p<0.05) different compared to the untreated condition.

[0176] Further cosmetic exemplary formulations are listed hereinafter.

Exemplary Formulations:

[0177]

TABLE-US-00004 Example number 1 2 3 4 5 PEG-100 Stearate 2.0 0.9 PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate 1.1 PEG-40 Stearate 1.0 Ceteareth-25 0.5 Steareth-100 0.5 2.0 Ceteth-20 1.0 Myristyl Myristate 1.0 1.0 Glyceryl Stearate 1.1 2.0 Stearyl Alcohol 2.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 2.5 Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 3.0 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 2.0 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.0 2.0 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3.0 2.0 3.5 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 1.0 1.5 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 3.0 1.5 Octyldodecanol 1.0 Paraffinum Liquidum 1.0 Cera Microcristallina 2.0 1.0 1.5 Cyclomethicone 4.1 1.0 4.0 3.5 5.0 Dimethicone 2.3 1.0 1.2 Dicaprylyl Ether 1.0 4.0 2.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2.8 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.0 3.0 5.0 2.0 2.5 Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate 1.0 1.0 1.5 0.5 2.0 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid 2.0 3.0 1.0 1.5 1.5 Ethylhexyl Triazone 2.0 Octocrylene 2.5 Ethylhexyl Salicylate 1.0 Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by 0.1 0.2 0.5 weight of A/B/C/D: 1/0.1/1/4) Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by 0.1 weight of A/B/C/D: 0.8/0.5/1.2/3.4) Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by 1 weight of A/B/C/D: 1.2/0.3/0.9/4.1) Biotin 0.04 Retinyl Palmitate 0.1 Thioctic Acid 0.1 Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 Sodium Citrate 0.1 Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate 0.1 0.1 Trisodium EDTA 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Butylparaben 0.6 0.3 0.2 0.3 0.3 Alcohol Denat. 2.0 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Carbomer 0.05 0.1 0.1 Polyacrylamide 0.2 Glycerin 10 6.0 6.5 7.5 8.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 1.0 Fillers/additives (distarch phosphate, SiO.sub.2, BHT, 0.1 1.0 0.2 0.5 0.05 talc, aluminum stearate) Parfum q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Aqua ad ad ad ad ad 100 100 100 100 100

TABLE-US-00005 Example number 6 7 8 9 10 PEG-50 Stearate 2.5 1.0 PEG-40 Stearate 1.0 1.0 0.5 PEG-8 Stearate 1.0 PEG-8 Distearate 1.0 Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 Sorbitan Stearate 1.0 Steareth-21 2.0 1.0 Steareth-2 1.0 Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0 Myristyl Myristate 1.0 Behenyl Alcohol 1.0 2.0 Stearyl Alcohol 5.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 2.0 1.0 Cetyl Alcohol 1.0 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 1.0 1 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.5 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 2.0 5.0 2.5 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate 1.5 2.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 1.0 1.5 3.5 Ethylhexyl Cocoate 2.0 Octyldodecanol 1.0 1.5 Paraffinum Liquidum 1.0 Cera Microcristallina 1.8 Cyclomethicone 4.0 3.5 2.0 5.0 2.0 Dimethicone 2.0 1.5 Dicaprylyl Ether 2.0 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 2.0 3.0 3.5 N-(4-(2,4-Dihydroxyphenyl)thiazol-2-yl)isobutyramide 0.1 0.15 0.25 0.1 0.5 Polydecene 4 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 2.0 3.0 4.5 5.0 4.2 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulphonic Acid 0.5 2.0 2.0 3.3 1.0 Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate 1.0 1.0 1.5 2.3 0.5 Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by weight 0.2 0.35 of A/B/C/D: 1/0.1/1/4) Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by weight 1.1 of A/B/C/D: 0.8/0.5/1.2/3.4) Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by weight 0.8 0.7 of A/B/C/D: 1.2/0.3/0.9/4.1) Biotin 0.02 Retinyl Palmitate 0.2 Tocopheryl Acetate 1.0 0.5 Ascorbic Acid 0.05 Trisodium EDTA 0.2 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 0.4 0.5 0.3 Butylparaben 0.1 0.4 0.6 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.4 Alcohol Denat. 8.0 3.0 Xanthan Gum 0.1 Gellan Gum 0.2 0.1 0.1 Carbomer 0.2 Glycerin 10 5.0 6.0 4.0 7.0 Butylene Glycol 2.0 Additives (distarch phosphate, SiO.sub.2, talc, BHT, 0.03 0.05 3.0 aluminum stearate) Parfum q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Aqua ad ad ad ad ad 100 100 100 100 100

TABLE-US-00006 Example number 11 12 13 14 15 PEG-100 Stearate 1.4 0.1 1.2 Glyceryl Stearate 1.4 0.5 0.2 1.0 0.9 Ceteareth-100 2 3.1 2.1 Sorbitan Stearate 2.3 2.5 Polysorbate 60 0.1 0.3 0.8 0.7 Polysorbate 80 0.8 0.5 0.1 Sorbitan Isostearate 0.1 0.25 0.05 Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter 3.0 1.2 2.7 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter 2.5 3.5 1.9 Jojoba Esters 2.0 2.5 1.3 0.5 1.0 Beeswax 1.0 0.2 0.8 1.6 2.0 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0.5 0.1 Persea Gratissima Oil 0.7 0.3 0.5 Olea Europaea Fruit Oil 0.1 0.6 0.1 Cyclomethicone 3.6 0.1 0.1 1.2 Dimethicone 5.4 4.5 5.0 3.6 Squalane 3.0 1.9 Carbomer 0.2 0.4 0.15 Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl 1.7 0.1 1.0 2.0 0.1 Taurate Copolymer Polymethyl Methacrylate 0.5 0.6 0.1 Dimethicone Crosspolymer 0.6 0.3 0.25 Pullulan 0.5 0.4 Carrageenan 0.2 0.3 0.7 0.3 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.1 0.25 Methylpropanediol 1.3 Glycerin 3.1 1.7 4.0 2.8 3.5 Sorbitol 0.1 Propanediol 2.0 1.9 Propylene Glycol 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.3 Pentylene Glycol 0.1 0.5 Butylene Glycol 0.2 0.3 0.2 Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 0.2 0.45 0.35 Ubiquinone 0.1 0.2 0.15 Retinyl Palmitate 0.15 0.15 Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by weight 0.65 0.01 of A/B/C/D: 1/0.1/1/4) Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by weight 0.7 of A/B/C/D: 0.8/0.5/1.2/3.4) Active ingredient complex A + B + C + D (ratios by weight 0.25 0.35 of A/B/C/D: 1.2/0.3/0.9/4.1) Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.3 0.5 0.3 0.45 Ethylhexylglycerin 0.2 0.1 0.05 Titanium Dioxide 0.3 0.1 0.2 Tapioca Starch 0.05 Talc 0.05 Parfum q.s q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Aqua ad ad ad ad ad 100 100 100 100 100