STABLE HIGH INTERNAL PHASE EMULSIONS AND COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING THE SAME

Abstract

A stable high internal phase emulsion (HIPE) and compositions including the same. In particular, a high internal phase emulsion including at least 74% by volume of an aqueous internal phase, and an oily external phase, wherein the emulsion is stabilized by stabilizing system including at least: (a) lecithin, (b) a sodium acrylate copolymer, and (c) a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, wherein the stabilizing system represents at least 3.2% by weight of the emulsion.

Claims

1. A high internal phase emulsion comprising at least 74% by volume of an aqueous internal phase, and an oily external phase, wherein the emulsion is stabilized by stabilizing system comprising at least: (a) lecithin; (b) a sodium acrylate copolymer; and (c) a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, wherein the stabilizing system represents at least 3.2% by weight of the emulsion.

2. The high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous internal phase represents 80 to 90 vol % of the emulsion.

3. The high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the stabilizing system represents 3.2 to 10% by weight of the emulsion, preferably 4.2 to 6% by weight of the emulsion.

4. The high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the stabilizing system comprises: (a) 0.2 to 4% by weight of lecithin, preferably 0.3 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.35 to 0.6% by weight; (b) 1.5 to 5% by weight of sodium acrylate copolymer, preferably 1.6 to 4% by weight and more preferably 1.6 to 2.5% by weight; and (c) 1.5 to 6% by weight of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight and more preferably 2 to 4% by weight.

5. The high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase represents 5 to 25 vol % of the emulsion, preferably 8 to 20 vol %, and more preferably 10 to 15 vol %.

6. The high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the emulsion comprises less than 0.5% by weight of silicone compounds, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, and more preferably, the emulsion is free of silicone compounds.

7. A process for preparing a high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1 by direct emulsification method or by phase inversion method.

8. The process according to claim 7, wherein the phase inversion method comprises adding the oily phase into the water phase under stirring until a water-in-oil emulsion is obtained.

9. A cosmetic composition comprising a high internal phase emulsion according to claim 1.

10. The cosmetic composition according claim 9, comprising active agents, and preferably vitamin C.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 10, in the form of a skin care or a makeup product.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] The high internal phase emulsion according to the present invention comprises at least 74% by volume of a aqueous internal phase [0022] (a) lecithin; [0023] (b) a sodium acrylate copolymer; [0024] (c) a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, [0025] wherein the stabilizing system represents at least 3.2% by weight of the emulsion.

[0026] The HIPE of this invention is stable for at least one month when stored at room temperature (25° C.), and preferably at least one month when stored at 45° C.

[0027] In a preferred embodiment, the stabilizing system represents 3.2 to 10% by weight of the emulsion, preferably 4.2 to 6% by weight of the emulsion.

[0028] More particularly, the stabilizing system can preferably comprise: [0029] (a) 0.2 to 4% by weight of lecithin, preferably 0.3 to 1% by weight and more preferably 0.35 to 0.6% by weight; [0030] (b) 1.5 to 5% by weight of sodium acrylate copolymer, preferably 1.6 to 4% by weight and more preferably 1.6 to 2.5% by weight; [0031] (c) 1.5 to 6% by weight of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, preferably 1.5 to 4% by weight and more preferably 2 to 4% by weight.

[0032] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of lecithin:sodium acrylate copolymer:polyglyceryl fatty acid ester will be ranging from 1:4:8 to 1:5:9, and more preferably will be between 1:4:5-1:4:7.5.

[0033] In a preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate, and in particular, a polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate or a polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate.

[0034] Lecithin will preferably be of natural origin, in particular derived from soybean and/or sunflower seeds.

[0035] In a preferred embodiment, the lecithin is not hydrogenated.

[0036] The sodium acrylate copolymer to be used in the HIPE emulsion according to the invention is different and should be distinguished from optionally modified carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbomer and Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. In a preferred embodiment, the sodium acrylate copolymer is not an optionally modified carboxyvinyl polymers such as carbomer and Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

[0037] A mixture of lecithin and sodium acrylate copolymer can for example be available under the commercial reference Lecigel® sold by the company Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

[0038] The HIPE emulsion according to the invention comprises an aqueous internal phase, comprising water (preferably demineralized water or floral waters), and optionally any water soluble solvents such as alcohols, in particular ethanol.

[0039] The quantity of water in the HIPE emulsion is preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, preferably 65 to 80 by weight, most preferably 68 to 72% by weight of the emulsion.

[0040] The aqueous internal phase represents at least 74% by volume of the HIPE emulsion, preferably 80 to 90 vol % of the emulsion.

[0041] The HIPE emulsion according to the invention also comprises an oily external phase, comprising at least one oil.

[0042] The oil should preferably be liquid at room temperature (20° C.) and should be cosmetically and pharmaceutically acceptable.

[0043] It is possible to employ any vegetable and animal oils, provided that silicon oils are avoided.

[0044] Examples of preferred oils are (in decreasing order of preference): [0045] Fatty esters such as esters of C.sub.8-C.sub.10 acids and C.sub.12-C.sub.18 fatty alcohols (for example coco-caprylate/caparate) or diester of carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol (for example dicaprylyl carbonate) [0046] fatty acid triglycerides (for example caprylic/capric triglycerides) [0047] hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as squalane or linear or branched alkanes comprising from 7 to 20 carbon atoms (for example C15-19 alkane, C9-12 alkane, dodecane and tridecane) [0048] or mixtures thereof.

[0049] The quantity of oily phase in the emulsion is from 5 to 25%, preferably from 5 to 15%, and most preferably from 10 to 14% by weight of the HIPE emulsion.

[0050] If the emulsion contains less than 5% of oily phase, it is generally not possible to obtain a stable water-in-oil emulsion, whereas if the emulsion contains more than 25% of oily phase, then the emulsion will cease to exhibit the special properties and characteristics attributable to a high internal phase emulsion.

[0051] The present invention is also directed to a process for preparing a high internal phase emulsion according to any of the preceding claims by direct emulsification method or by phase inversion method.

[0052] Indeed, the present HIPE emulsion has the advantage of being easy to prepare contrary to usual HIPE emulsion, while remaining stable.

[0053] Direct emulsification method should be understood as introducing the internal aqueous phase into the external oily phase under stirring. IN this process, the aqueous phase should preferably be added dropwise and slowly to prevent phase inversion.

[0054] Inversion method comprises adding the oily phase into the water phase under stirring until a water-in-oil emulsion is obtained. This method is preferred since the oily phase can be added at once: it is then much easier and it saves time.

[0055] The HIPE emulsion according to the invention can be employed as a vehicle for a wide variety of cosmetically or pharmaceutically active ingredients, particularly ingredients which have some beneficial effect when applied to the skin.

[0056] The emulsion thus provides a means whereby such active ingredients can be diluted, preserved, conveyed to and distributed on the skin surface at an appropriate concentration.

[0057] The present invention is therefore directed to cosmetic compositions comprising a high internal phase emulsions previously described.

[0058] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a skincare and/or makeup composition for keratin materials, preferably for the skin.

[0059] In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a skincare composition, in particular in the form of anti-aging, hydrating, whitening cream.

[0060] According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a makeup composition for the face, in particular in the form of a foundation, a makeup base, concealer or a tinted cream.

[0061] The cosmetic composition can comprise, at least one usual additive in the field, such as for example at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant agent, an oil, an active agent, a colorant, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a sunscreen and a perfume. [0062] One or more humectant(s), such as polyols (glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, hexanediol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, and polyquaterniums such as lipidure PMB.

[0063] Said humectant may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.005 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0064] One or more emollient agent(s) which may be chosen, for example, from esters such as jojoba esters, esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohol (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Isostearyl isostearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butters (butyrospernum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters, marketed under the trade names LIPEX SHEASOFT, LIPEX SHEA-U, LIPEX SHEA, LIPEX SHEALIGHT, LIPEX SHEA TRIS) or moringa (moringa oil/hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & Helianthus annuus cera seed seed wax, C10-18 triglycerides), vegetable oils, phytosqualane, alkanes (undecane, tridecane)

[0065] Said emollient may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0066] One or more film-forming agent (s) such as polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and/or from the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel®), and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Said film-forming agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0068] One or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, pearlescent pigments, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and/or organic. The mineral pigments may be chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The water-soluble dyes may be chosen from FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

[0069] Said coloring agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0070] One or more filler(s) chosen from lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride and silica

[0071] Said filler may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. [0072] One or more active agent(s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having a biological activity and having an effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, oligo elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 marketed under the trade name NP RIGIN, MATRIXYL 3000, IDEALIFT, EYESERYL), plants extracts (Glycyrrhiza glabra extract, Centella asiatica leaf extract, secale cereal seed extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester etc.

[0073] Said active agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0074] In the context of the present invention, the addition of generally unstable active ingredients can be of particular interest. Indeed, it is of the merit of the inventors to have observed that the introduction of generally unstable active ingredient such as vitamin C in the HIPE emulsions of the invention made it possible to surprisingly improve storage stability of these unstable compounds.

[0075] Therefore, according to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises active agents, and preferably vitamin C.

[0076] Other additives commonly used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidants or perfumes well known in the technical field.

[0077] The person skilled in the art is able to choose, among all of these possible additives, both the nature and the quantity of those which will be added to the composition, so that the latter retains all of its properties.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

[0078] The following HIPE emulsions (three according to the invention and two comparative compositions) were prepared though phase inversion method comprises adding the oily phase into the water phase under stirring until a water-in-oil emulsion is obtained.

[0079] The stability of the obtained HIPE emulsions where then tested.

TABLE-US-00001 Ex1 Ex2 Ex3 Comp1 Comp2 INCI % % % % % WATER 69.0 68.0 68.8 71.0 71.6 MAGNESIUM 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 SULFATE CHLORPHENESIN 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 10 10 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3 3 3 3 3 SODIUM ACRYLATES 2.0 3.0 2.2 2.0 2.3 COPOLYMER (82.5%) & LECITHIN (17.5%) POLYGLYCERYL- 3 3 1 0.4 6 POLYRICINOLEATE POLYGLYCERYL- 3 3 POLYRICINOLEATE CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 DICAPRYLYL 6 6 6 6 CARBONATE SQUALANE 6 6 6 6 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC 12 TRIGLYCERIDE Emulsion W/O W/O W/O O/W O/W emul- emul- emul- emul- emul- sion sion sion sion sion Water phase (%) 84.75 84.75 84.75 86.75 87.35 Stability in one OK OK OK Separation Separation month at Room Temp

[0080] It results from the stability tests demonstrate that the HIPE emulsions of the invention, comprising more than 3% by weight of the stabilizing system of the invention (comprising lecithin, sodium acrylate copolymer and polyglyceryl-6-polyricinoleate) is stable for at least one month at room temperature whereas comparative experiments comprising only 2.7 or 3% of the same stabilizing system were not stable for one month at room temperature.

Example 2

[0081] The following HIPE emulsion comprising vitamin C was prepared though phase inversion method and tested for stability

TABLE-US-00002 INCI Tradename % WATER DEMINERALIZED WATER 68.8 MAGNESIUM SULFATE RONACARE MAGNESIUM 0.5 SULFATE 132219 CHLORPHENESIN CHLORPHENESIN XP 0.25 GLYCERIN GLYCERINE 4811 10 PENTYLENE GLYCOL A-LEEN 5 3 SODIUM ACRYLATES LECIGEL 2.2 COPOLYMER & LECITHIN ASCORBIC ACID ACIDE ASCORBIQUE 5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL DERMOSOFT OCTIOL 0.25 POLYGLYCERYL- 3 3 POLYRICINOLEATE & COCO-CAPRYLATE/CAPRATE CETIOL C 5C 7

[0082] Acid ascorbic stability was tested through quantitative analysis by UV spectrometer after 1 month storage at 45° C., Room temperature and 5° C.

[0083] Quantitative Analysis by UV Spectrometer

TABLE-US-00003 45° C. Room temp 5° C. 5.1820% 5.1645% 5.3595%

[0084] The results surprisingly demonstrate perfect stability of Vitamin C after one month at the 3 temperatures tested. This was unexpected because vitamin C is known to be unstable, in particular at high temperatures.