Article of apparel
11821116 · 2023-11-21
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A41D31/14
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A41D7/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
D03D13/00
TEXTILES; PAPER
A41D13/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A41D31/14
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A41D7/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
The present invention concerns an article of apparel including: a first woven area, where the first woven area includes a first weaving density and a first yarn weight per unit length; a second woven area arranged adjacent to the first woven area, where the second woven area includes a second weaving density and a second yarn weight per unit length; and a third woven area arranged adjacent to the second woven area, where the third woven area includes a third weaving density and a third yarn weight per unit length. The second weaving density in the second woven area changes gradually from the first weaving density to the third weaving density and/or the second yarn weight per unit length in the second woven area changes gradually from the first yarn weight per unit length to the third yarn weight per unit length.
Claims
1. An article of apparel comprising: a first yarn of a first yarn material; a second yarn of a second yarn material; a third yarn of a third yarn material, wherein the second yarn material comprises a blend of the first yarn material and the third yarn material; a first woven area comprising the first yarn, wherein the first woven area comprises a first weaving density and a first yarn weight per unit length, wherein a first insulating layer is sealed within the first woven area, and wherein the first insulating layer comprises a first insulating material; a second woven area arranged adjacent to the first woven area, wherein the second woven area comprises a second weaving density and a second yarn weight per unit length; and a third woven area arranged adjacent to the second woven area and comprising the third yarn, wherein the third woven area comprises a third weaving density and a third yarn weight per unit length, wherein a second insulating layer is sealed within the third woven area, and wherein the second insulating layer comprises a second insulating material different than the first insulating material, wherein the second woven area comprises the second yarn, wherein the second insulating layer provides greater thermal insulation than the first insulating layer, wherein the first woven area comprises a first air permeability and the third woven area comprises a third air permeability, the first air permeability being greater than the third air permeability, and wherein the second weaving density in the second woven area changes gradually from the first weaving density to, and/or wherein the second yarn weight per unit length in the second woven area changes gradually from the first yarn weight per unit length to the third yarn weight per unit length.
2. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the first woven area, the second woven area, and the third woven area are connected by weaving and are part of one unitary woven fabric.
3. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein: the second woven area comprises a second air permeability; and the second air permeability in the second woven area changes gradually from the first air permeability to the third air permeability.
4. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein: the first weaving density is a first weft density; the second weaving density is a second weft density; the third weaving density is a third weft density; and the second weft density in the second woven area changes gradually from the first weft density to the third weft density.
5. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the first insulating layer comprises a synthetic filling and the second insulating layer comprises down feathers.
6. The article of apparel according to claim 4, wherein the third weft density is at least twice as large as the first weft density.
7. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the third yarn weight per unit length is at least twice as large as the first yarn weight per unit length.
8. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the first air permeability is at least twice as large as the third air permeability.
9. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the article of apparel is a jacket, a shirt, a jersey, a swim suit or a vest.
10. The article of apparel according to claim 9, wherein the third woven area is configured to be arranged in a kidney area of a wearer.
11. The article of apparel according to claim 9, wherein the third woven area is configured to be arranged in a chest area of a wearer.
12. The article of apparel according to claim 9, wherein the first woven area is configured to be arranged in an upper back area of a wearer.
13. The article of apparel according to claim 9, wherein the first woven area is configured to be arranged in a lower front area of a wearer.
14. The article of apparel according to claim 1, further comprising at least one yarn, which comprises a meltable component.
15. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the first insulating layer comprises a mixture of a synthetic filling and down feathers.
16. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein first woven area and the second woven area are configured to be arranged in a lower arm area of a wearer.
17. The article of apparel according to claim 1, wherein the first woven area, the second woven area, and the third woven are at least 5 centimeters long.
18. The article of apparel according to claim 1, the third weaving density is greater than the first weaving density, and the first air permeability is greater than the third air permeability.
19. An article of apparel comprising: two arm openings; an upper back area arranged between the two arm openings; a first woven area arranged in the upper back area, wherein the first woven area comprises a first weaving density and a first yarn weight per unit length, wherein a first insulating layer is arranged in the first woven area and wherein the first insulating layer comprises a synthetic filling; a second woven area arranged adjacent to the first woven area, wherein the second woven area comprises a second weaving density and a second yarn weight per unit length; and a third woven area arranged adjacent to the second woven area, wherein the third woven area comprises a third weaving density and a third yarn weight per unit length, wherein a second insulating layer is arranged in the third woven area, and wherein the second insulating layer comprises down feathers, wherein the second woven area comprises an insulation transition between the first woven area and the third woven area, the transition comprising a portion of the first insulating layer and a portion of the second insulating layer, wherein the first woven area comprises a first air permeability and the third woven area comprises a third air permeability, the first air permeability being greater than the third air permeability, and wherein the second weaving density in the second woven area changes gradually from the first weaving density to the third weaving density, and/or wherein the second yarn weight per unit length in the second woven area changes gradually from the first yarn weight per unit length to the third yarn weight per unit length, wherein the third yarn weight per unit length is at least twice as large as the first yarn weight per unit length.
Description
SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
(1) In the following, exemplary embodiments of the invention are described with reference to the figures. The figures show:
(2)
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
(9) In the following only some possible embodiments of the invention are described in detail. It is to be understood that these exemplary embodiments can be modified in a number of ways and combined with each other whenever compatible and that certain features may be omitted in so far as they appear dispensable. While the invention is described primarily with reference to a jacket it is to be understood that the teachings of the present invention apply to any article of apparel, such as a shirt, a jersey, a swim suit, a vest, a pair of trousers or shorts, a shoe, a boot, or a sock.
(10) The figures shown below are for illustrative purposes only and are not to scale.
(11)
(12) In this example, both the second weaving density in the second woven area 12 changes gradually from the first weaving density to the third weaving density and the second yarn weight per unit length in the second woven area 12 changes gradually from the first yarn weight per unit length to the third yarn weight per unit length. However, according to the invention, it is also possible that only one of the weaving density or the yarn weight per unit area changes gradually in the second woven area 12.
(13) The exemplary article of apparel 10 is a sports jacket, however, generally the article of apparel 10 may also be for use in leisure or business. The left part of
(14) In this example, the first 11, second 12, and third 13 woven area is at least 5 cm long in any direction along the surface of the article of apparel 10 to ideally match the gradual change of the anatomic and athletic requirements of a wearer.
(15) It is to be understood that the article of apparel 10 may comprise at least one further area (not shown) that comprises a textile, for example a knitted textile or a non-woven textile, or non-textile material, for example a waterproof sheet made from a synthetic material.
(16) The first woven area 11, the second woven area 12, and the third woven area 13 are connected by weaving and are part of one unitary woven fabric. Therefore, a stitching is absent from an interface between the first woven area 11 and the second woven area 12, and an interface between the second woven area 12 and the third woven area 13.
(17) The first woven area 11 comprises a first air permeability, the second woven area 12 comprises a second air permeability, the third woven area 13 comprises a third air permeability, and the second air permeability in the second woven area 12 changes gradually from the first air permeability to the third air permeability.
(18) The air permeability is to be determined for the woven fabric in the first woven area 11, the second woven area 12, and the third woven area 13, itself, irrespective of any additional layers, such as fillings.
(19) In the exemplary embodiment of
(20) The article of apparel 10 further comprises (a) a first insulating layer 15 arranged in the first woven area 11 and (b) a third insulating layer 16 arranged in the third woven area 13. This way it is possible to enhance a difference in the properties of the article of apparel 10 in the first woven area 11 and the second woven area 12, for example differences in air permeability, thermal insulation, and moisture transport.
(21) The first insulating layer comprises a synthetic filling and the third insulating layer comprises down feathers. A synthetic filling may be sealed even in a woven fabric with a low weaving density, i.e. a woven fabric with a large distance between adjacent weft or warp yarns. The inventors have found that there is a strong correspondence between the air permeability and the ability of a woven fabric to seal a filling. For example, for a plain weave pattern, a synthetic filling may be sealed even for an air permeability as large as 50 mm/s (approximately 10 cubic feet per square foot per minute). A filling comprising down feathers provides excellent thermal insulation and moisture transport properties but typically requires a higher weaving density. For example, for a plain weave pattern, a down feather filling may be sealed by a woven fabric with an air permeability of about 15 mm/s (approximately 3 cubic feet per square foot per minute) or less. This combination of the first and third insulating layer therefore ensures optimal compatibility with the woven fabric in the first woven area 11 and the third woven area 13. Both fillings are sealed in compartments in order to localize the fillings to the corresponding area of the article of apparel.
(22) The third weft density is twice as large as the first weft density. Therefore, the third woven area 13 is less air permeable and offers better thermal insulation than the first woven area 11.
(23) The third yarn weight per unit length is six times as large as the first yarn weight per unit length. This enhances the differences in air permeability and thermal insulation provided by the first weft density. In this example, the first air permeability is ten times as large as the third air permeability.
(24) The third woven area 13 is arranged in a kidney area. The inventors have found, that a kidney area requires a good level of thermal insulation for comfort and to prevent illness, therefore the third woven area 13 is advantageously arranged in a kidney area.
(25) The third woven area 13 is also arranged in a chest area. The inventors have found, that a chest area requires a good level of thermal insulation and needs to offer a good level of wind resistance for comfort and to prevent illness, therefore the third woven area 13 is advantageously arranged in a chest area.
(26) The first woven area 11 is also arranged in an upper back area. The inventors have found, that an upper back area requires a good level of ventilation and heat transport, i.e. low thermal insulation for comfort and to prevent overheating of an athlete during exercise, for example running or cycling, during which the upper back area is not generally subjected to much air circulation. Therefore, the first woven area 11 is advantageously arranged in an upper back area.
(27) The first woven area 11 is also arranged in a lower front area and in a lower arm area, in order to facilitate a preferable degree of ventilation for the athlete.
(28) The second woven area 12 is arranged in-between the first woven area 11 and the third woven area 13.
(29) The article of apparel 10 further comprises at least one yarn, which comprises a meltable component. In this example, the meltable material melts at a temperature of less than 100° C. in order to prevent damage to the other yarns in the component during heating. In this example, the article of apparel 10 comprises a melt yarn, sometimes also referred to as a fuse yarn. The melt yarn has a core with a high melting temperature which is coated with a material with a lower melting temperature. The melt yarn allows a simple stabilization and consolidation of the article of apparel 10, which is particularly useful to stabilize the gradient in weaving density.
(30) The first woven area 11 comprises a yarn of a first material, in this example high-tenacity polyester. The third woven area 13 comprises a yarn of a third material, in this example heather yarn. Thus, the first material is different from the third material.
(31)
(32) In this example, the number of picks per centimetre increases strictly monotonically and linearly between pick number 5 and pick number 15. However, it is to be understood that the number of picks per centimetre may not increase strictly monotonically, or even monotonically between pick number 5 and pick number 15. It is also not necessary that the number of picks per centimetre increases linearly in the second woven area 12. In this example, the number of picks per centimetre increases between each adjacent pair of picks in the second woven area 12, in other words with each “step” in the second woven area 12. However, it is also possible that the number of picks per centimetre increases with a different periodicity, for example at every other pick, every third pick, or every fifth pick, or in a non-periodic manner.
(33) In this example, the second woven area 12 comprises ten changes of the second weaving density. The greater the number of changes, the finer the “granularity” of the gradient and hence the better the matching of gradual changes in the anatomic and athletic requirements.
(34) In this example, gradually changing the weft density in the second woven area 12 comprises gradually changing the speed of a take-up roller. The method of production comprises a loom and a take-up roller may be any device configured to pull the woven fabric out of the loom. In this example, the take-up roller speed in the first woven area 11 is twice as large as the take-up roller speed in the third woven area 13, but the time between weft insertions is kept the same in the first 11, second 12, and third 13 woven area. This results in the weft density as shown in
(35) A visual analysis system comprising a camera was used to monitor the weft and/or warp density in real time. A high contrast image was processed with a computer to obtain the number of weft yarns, or picks per cm. This information was used to provide direct feedback to adjust the speed of the take-up roller in order to achieve the selected target weft density and weft density gradient.
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(37) In this example, the second yarn weight per unit length increases strictly monotonically and linearly between pick number 5 and pick number 15. However, it is to be understood that the second yarn weight per unit length may not increase strictly monotonically, or even monotonically between pick number 5 and pick number 15. It is also not necessary that the second yarn weight per unit length increases linearly in the second woven area 12. In this example, the second yarn weight per unit length increases between each adjacent pair of picks in the second woven area 12, in other words with each “step” in the second woven area 12. However, it is also possible that the second yarn weight per unit length increases with a different periodicity, for example at every other pick, every third pick, or every fifth pick, or in a non-periodic manner.
(38) In this example, the second woven area 12 comprises ten changes of the second yarn weight per unit length. The greater the number of changes, the finer the “granularity” of the gradient and hence the better the matching of gradual changes in the anatomic and athletic requirements.
(39)
(40) The general principle is that the rate of flow of air passing through a fabric is measured at a given pressure difference across the fabric test area over a given time period.
(41) A suitable air permeability measurement equipment comprises: a test head that provides a circular clamping area of 38 cm.sup.2 a clamping system to secure the test specimens under a force of 50N±5N to the test head a guard ring to prevent leakage a pressure gauge or manometer connected to the test head to indicate pressure drop across the test area a suitable means for drawing steady flow rate of air through the specimen and to adjust flow rate to produce a pressure drop a flow-meter to measure the air velocity through the test area in mm/s a calibration plate with known air permeability to verify the equipment
(42) The fabric may be tested without cutting specimens but areas should be tested that are free from creases and folds. A minimum of 5 readings across the full width of fabric are required. The fabric is conditioned for a minimum of 4 hours in a conditioned atmosphere of 20±2° C. and 65±2% relative humidity before testing. The measurement must be carried out in the conditioned laboratory. The measurement is carried out on the test on the face side of the fabric. The pressure differential is 100 Pa.
(43) The following steps need to be performed: 1. Calibrate the equipment before commencing the test 2. Mount a specimen in the circular specimen holder 3. The fabric should be placed with coated side face down (if the face is coated). 4. Start the suction fan to force air through the test specimen and adjust the flow of air until a pressure drop is achieved across the test area 5. Record the air flow after at least 1 min. or until steady conditions are achieved 6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the remaining 4 specimens
(44) Although the air permeability will therefore be an average air permeability averaged over the clamping area, in this case 38 cm.sup.2, it is still possible to determine a gradient on a smaller scale by displacing the clamping area, for example by 1 cm at a time. The skilled person may further apply known techniques of deconvolution to obtain a measurement of air permeability against position on a smaller scale than the scale of the clamping area.
(45) Although the described measurement equipment and protocol would be suitable for determining the air permeability, any other suitable method and apparatus may be used. In particular since aspects of the present invention relate to relative differences in air permeability, these relative differences may still be asserted even for different measurement equipment and/or protocols.
(46) The air permeability shown in
(47) The air permeability is 10 mm/s in the first woven area 11 and 1 mm/s in the third woven area 13. The air permeability decreases gradually in the second woven area 12 from 10 mm/s to 1 mm/s. The first air permeability is therefore at least twice as large as the third air permeability.
(48) In this example, the second air permeability decreases strictly monotonically and linearly between position 5 cm and position 15 cm. However, it is to be understood that the second air permeability may not decrease strictly monotonically, or even monotonically between the position 5 cm and the position 15 cm. It is also not necessary that the second air permeability increases linearly in the second woven area 12.
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(50) In this example, only the second weaving density in the second woven area 12 changes gradually from the first weaving density to the third weaving density. The second yarn weight per unit length in the second woven area 12 is constant.
(51) The exemplary article of apparel 10 is a sports jacket, however, generally the article of apparel 10 may also be for use in leisure or business. The left part of
(52) In this example, the first, second, and third woven area 13 is at least 10 cm long in any direction along the surface of the article of apparel 10 to ideally match the gradual change of the anatomic and athletic requirements of a wearer.
(53) It is to be understood that the article of apparel 10 may comprise at least one further area (not shown) that comprises a textile, for example a knitted textile or a non-woven textile, or non-textile material, for example a waterproof sheet made from a synthetic material.
(54) The first woven area 11, the second woven area 12, and the third woven area 13 are connected by weaving and are part of one unitary woven fabric. Therefore, a stitching is absent from an interface between the first woven area 11 and the second woven area 12, and an interface between the second woven area 12 and the third woven area 13.
(55) The first woven area 11 comprises a first air permeability, the second woven area 12 comprises a second air permeability, the third woven area 13 comprises a third air permeability, and the second air permeability in the second woven area 12 changes gradually from the first air permeability to the third air permeability.
(56) The air permeability is to be determined for the woven fabric in the first woven area 11, the second woven area 12, and the third woven area 13, itself, irrespective of any additional layers, such as fillings.
(57) In this exemplary embodiment the first weaving density is a first weft density; the second weaving density is a second weft density; the third weaving density is a third weft density; and the second weft density in the second woven area 12 changes gradually from the first weft density to the third weft density.
(58) The third weft density is five times as large as the first weft density. Therefore, the third woven area 13 is less air permeable and offers better thermal insulation than the first woven area 11. In this example, the first air permeability is five times as large as the third air permeability.
(59) The third woven area 13 is also arranged in a chest area. The inventors have found, that a chest area requires a good level of thermal insulation and needs to offer a good level of wind resistance for comfort and to prevent illness, therefore the third woven area 13 is advantageously arranged in a chest area.
(60) The first woven area 11 is arranged in an upper and lower back area. The inventors have found, that for some applications, such as cycling, the upper and lower back area require a good level of ventilation and heat transport, i.e. low thermal insulation for comfort and to prevent overheating of an athlete.
(61) The first woven area 11 is also arranged in a lower arm area to allow ventilation. The second woven area 12 is arranged in-between the first woven area 11 and the third woven area 13, for example on the lateral sides of the jacket and the backside of the upper arm.
(62)
(63) The inventors have studied the local differences in heat production and perspiration for different parts of the human body and in order to engineer an apparel with ideal “body mapping” properties to takes account of the anatomic and athletic requirements of an athlete.
(64)
(65) Generally, it is therefore preferable to arrange a first woven area with high air permeability for good ventilation properties around very high perspiration areas 24 and a third woven area with lower air permeability around low perspiration areas 21. The second woven area is then preferably arranged in between the first and third woven area in proximity to the high 23 and medium 22 perspiration areas. It should be noted, however, that external factors, for example wind-chill during running or cycling also affect the preferred arrangement of the first, second, and third woven areas.
(66) The measured skin surface temperature of an athlete during exercise is shown in
(67) Generally, it is therefore preferable to arrange a first woven area with high air permeability and low thermal insulation around the hot areas 33 and a third woven area with lower air permeability and better thermal insulation around the cold areas 31. The second woven area is then preferably arranged in between the first and third woven area in proximity to the warm areas 32. It should be noted, however, that external factors, for example wind-chill during running or cycling also affect the preferred arrangement of the first, second, and third woven areas.
REFERENCE SIGNS
(68) 10: article of apparel 11: first woven area 12: second woven area 13: third woven area 21: area with low level of perspiration 22: area with medium level of perspiration 23: area with high level of perspiration 24: area with very high level of perspiration 31: cold area 32: warm area 33: hot area