Solid cosmetic composition comprising a silicone polyamide, a silicone resin and a dispersed aqueous phase

Abstract

This invention relates according to a solid cosmetic composition for makeup or treatment comprising: —a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one polar wax of which the melting point is less than or equal to 90° C.; and—an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, said silicone polyamide representing at most 9% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition, and said wax representing at least 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Claims

1. A solid cosmetic composition for makeup or treatment comprising: a continuous fatty phase comprising at least one nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer in an amount of 2% to 9% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, at least one silicone resin in an amount 5% to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil present in a quantity between 5 and 30% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition and at least one polar wax with a melting point less than or equal to 90° C.; and an aqueous phase dispersed in the continuous fatty phase, the at least one silicon resin being a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, the at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from: C.sub.10-C.sub.26 alcohols; monoesters comprising between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total, having formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 wherein R.sub.1 is the remainder of a linear or branched or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, saturated or not, and R.sub.2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms with the condition that the ester comprises between 17 and 40 carbon atoms in total; di-alkyl carbonates, with the 2 alkyl chains able to be identical or different, and mixtures thereof, the at least one polar wax is chosen from waxes having formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are aliphatic linear, branched chains of which the number of atoms varies from 10 to 40 that can contain an oxygen atom, and of which the melting point temperature varies from 30 to 90° C., beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Lemon wax, Bay leaf wax, sunflower wax, hydrogenated Jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenating castor oil with cetyl alcohol and waxes obtained by hydrogenating olive oil with stearyl alcohol, and said wax representing 7% to 13% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition, and the aqueous phase comprises at least 7% by weight water with respect to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 7% to 40% by weight water with respect to the total weight of the composition.

3. The composition according to claim 1, having a hardness from 20 to 90 Nm.sup.−1.

4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said silicone resin is present in a ratio such that the silicon resin/nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer mass proportion is between 1 and 7/3.

5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polar wax is chosen from waxes of which the melting point is between 30° C. and 80° C.

6. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one additional oil chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicon oils, volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon non-polar oils, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the content in additional oil(s) represents from 1 to 30% by weight, with respect to the weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the at least one additional oil comprises a non-volatile non-polar silicon or a non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

9. The composition according to claim 8, which comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil, or mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 6, which comprises at least one additional volatile silicon or hydrocarbon oil, or mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises at least one aqueous phase thickening polymer.

12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising at least one hydrocarbon or silicone non-ionic surfactant, with an HLB less than or equal to 8.

13. The composition according to claim 12, wherein the content in surfactant(s) represents from 0.1 to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

14. A method for makeup or treatment of keratin materials which comprises applying on the keratin materials the composition according to claim 1.

15. The composition according to claim 1, which comprises 5 to 25% by weight of the at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon-based oil with respect to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polar wax is chosen from waxes having formula R.sub.1COOR.sub.2 wherein R.sub.1 and R.sub.2 are aliphatic linear, branched chains of which the number of atoms varies from 10 to 40 that can contain an oxygen atom, beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Lemon wax, Bay leaf wax, sunflower wax and hydrogenated Jojoba oil.

17. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the at least one polar wax is chosen from C20-40 alkyl stearate, beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Lemon wax, Bay leaf wax, sunflower wax and hydrogenated Jojoba oil.

18. The composition according to claim 1, which free from any volatile linear alkane.

Description

EXAMPLES 1 AND 2 OF LIPSTICKS ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION

(1) The solid inverted emulsion compositions of the examples 1 and 2 are obtained according to the following protocol:

(2) In a first step, the fillers and the pigments are ground in a portion of the oily phase.

(3) The remainder of the liposoluble ingredients and possibly the surfactants (cetyl PEG/PGG-10/1 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone and polyglycerol-4 isostearate) are then mixed at a temperature of about 95-100° C. The ground product or the pre-dispersed active ingredients are then added into the oily phase.

(4) The aqueous phase is prepared at 85° C. and dispersed using a Rayneri deflocculator.

(5) Finally, the composition is cast into a mold in order to give it the shape of a stick and the whole is cooled at 0° C. The sticks are unmolded at 0° C. and left at ambient temperature.

(6) TABLE-US-00001 Compound (INCI name) Example 1 Example 2 Dyes (pigments, lacquers and or titanium 8 8 oxide) Phenyltrimethicone (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) 13.5 10.3 Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 8.4 Candelilla wax (7820 Light Special Candelilla 2.5 2.6 REAL ® from Multiceras) C20-40 alkyl stearate (Kester Wax K 82 H 7.5 7.9 from Koster Keunen) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR1000 from 8.5 8.5 Momentive Performance Materials) Octyldodecanol 13.4 — CETYL PEG/PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE (Abil — 3 EM-90 from Evonik Goldschmidt) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone in dimethicone — 1 (X-22-6711D, from Shin Etsu; in dimethicone; 25% active material) Polyglycerol-4 isostearate (Isolan GI 34 from — 1 Goldschmidt) NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER 5.7 5.7 (DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) Glycerin 5 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM 0.2 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) EDTA 0.2 0.2 Octane-1,2-diol — 0.5 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100

(7) For example 1 a stick of a hardness of 37 Nm.sup.−1 is obtained.

(8) For example 2 a stick of a hardness of 42 Nm.sup.−1 is obtained.

(9) The two compositions are applied easily, with a good slip and make it possible to obtain a covering deposit, intense, fine and homogeneous on the first pass, fresh, not tacky, not migrant (especially after 1 h30), of good stability, in particular for the color, and comfortable. The color of the deposit is uniform with good covering power.

Example 3 of a Lipstick According to the Invention

(10) The solid inverted emulsion composition of example 3 (according to the invention) is obtained according to the following protocol:

(11) In a first step, the dyes are ground in a part of the hydrocarbon-based oils.

(12) The remainder of the oils is heated at 95° C. and the wax, the silicon resin and the nylon-611/dimethicone are then successively added under mixing (Rayneri) until the resulting mixture is homogeneous.

(13) The mixture of dyes and part of the hydrocarbon-based oils is then added into the oily phase.

(14) The aqueous phase is separately prepared at 85° C. then dispersed in the oily phase (Rayneri).

(15) Finally, the composition is cast into a mold in order to give it the shape of a stick and the whole is cooled at 0° C. The sticks are unmolded at 0° C. left at ambient temperature.

(16) TABLE-US-00002 Compound (INCI name) Example 3 Yellow 6 Lake/Alumina 3.9 Red 7 0.3 Titanium dioxide 0.5 Red 28 Lake 3.3 Phenyltrimethicone (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) 13.5 Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 C20-40 alkyl stearate (Kester Wax K 82 H 8 from Koster Keunen) Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR1000 from 8.5 Momentive Performance Materials) Octyldodecanol 13.4 NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER 5.7 (DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) Glycerin 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) EDTA 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 Water Qs 100

(17) For example 3 a stick of a hardness of around 26 Nm.sup.−1 is obtained.

(18) The stick is homogenous and smooth.

Comparative Lipstick Examples A and B

(19) The comparative compositions (i.e. comparative lipsticks) A and B are obtained according to the protocol described in example 3.

(20) Comparative composition A corresponds to the composition of example 3 except that the wax is substituted by an alcohol wax, i.e. C30-50 alcohols (Performacol 550 Alcohol) which have a melting point of around 95° C. The melting point is greater than 90° C.

(21) Comparative composition B corresponds to the composition of example 3 except that the wax is substituted by an apolar wax, i.e. polyethylene wax (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE of New Phase Technologies) which has a melting point of around 77° C. The wax is thus not polar.

(22) TABLE-US-00003 Comparative Comparative Compound (INCI name) lipstick A lipstick B Yellow 6 Lake/Alumina 3.9 3.9 Red 7 0.3 0.3 Titanium dioxide 0.5 0.5 Red 28 Lake 3.3 3.3 Phenyltrimethicone 13.5 13.5 (KF 56 A, from Shin Etsu) Isononyl isononanoate 10.9 10.9 C30-50 Alcohols 8 — (Performacol 550 Alcohol of Baker Hughes) Polyethylene wax — 8 (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE of New Phase Technologies) Trimethylsiloxysilicate 8.5 8.5 (SR1000 from Momentive Performance Materials) Octyldodecanol 13.4 13.4 NYLON-611/DIMETHICONE 5.7 5.7 COPOLYMER (DC 2-8179 from Dow Corning) Glycerin 5 5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM 0.2 0.2 ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER (SEPINOV EMT 10 from SEPPIC) EDTA 0.2 0.2 Sodium hyaluronate 0.1 0.1 Water Qs 100 Qs 100

(23) Comparative lipstick A with a hardness of 48+/−2.7 Nm.sup.−1 is obtained. However the stick is not smooth, and comprises deep stretches and irregularities. Indeed the emulsion is very thick, and is not homogenously put in molds.

(24) Comparative lipstick B with a hardness of 69+/−1.2 Nm.sup.−1 is obtained. However, the stick comprises irregularities, cavities and air bubbles at the surface of the stick. Again, the emulsion is thick, and is not homogenously put in molds.