Cosmetic Composition with Skin Microbiome-Friendly Properties

20230381094 · 2023-11-30

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Inventors

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International classification

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a composition with beneficial skin bacteria-friendly properties. The composition of the present invention does not inhibit the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, has beneficial skin bacteria-friendly properties, can maintain or promote the growth of beneficial bacteria without addition of active materials such as prebiotics or probiotics, and therefore can be provided as a microbiome cosmetic composition.

Claims

1. A method for maintaining or enhancing beneficial skin bacteria, the method comprising applying a cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant and an oil to the skin of a subject.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises a fatty acid.

3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the beneficial skin bacteria are Staphylococcus epidermidis.

4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the surfactant is any one or more selected from the group consisting of a non-ionic surfactant, a phospholipid-based surfactant, and a non-phospholipid-based surfactant; wherein the non-phospholipid-based surfactant is any one or more selected from the group consisting of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and inulin lauryl carbamate; wherein the non-ionic surfactant is any one or more selected from the group consisting of a polyethylene glycol (PEG)-based non-ionic surfactant and a non-PEG-based non-ionic surfactant; and wherein the non-phospholipid-based surfactant is lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin.

5. The method according to claim 4, wherein the PEG-based non-ionic surfactant is any one or more selected from the group consisting of PEG-100 stearate, Steareth-21, PEG-40 stearate, and PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil; and the non-PEG-based non-ionic surfactant is any one or more selected from the group consisting of glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, C14-22 alcohol, lauryl glucoside, myristyl glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, C12-18 alkyl glucoside, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, sorbitan olivate, cetearyl olivate, sorbitan stearate, sucrose polystearate, cetyl palmitate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-5 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-8 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.

6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the oil is any one or more selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, silicone oil, and natural oil.

7. The method according to claim 6, wherein the hydrocarbon oil is any one or more selected from the group consisting of C13-15 alkane, hydrogenated polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane, isohexadecane, squalane, undecane, tridecane, C13-14 alkane, C14-17 alkane, C14-19 alkane, and C15-19 alkane; the ester oil is any one or more selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl isononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, triethylhexanoin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-caprylate/caprate, dicaprylyl carbonate, phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate, dipentaerythrityl hexa C5-9 acid esters, diisostearyl malate, hexyl laurate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, ethyl ethyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, and octyldodecyl myristate; the silicone oil is any one or more selected from the group consisting of caprylyl methicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol, dimethicone, methyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, and phenyl trimethicone; and the natural oil is any one or more selected from the group consisting of Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, Avena sativa (oat) kernel oil, and Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter.

8. The method according to claim 6, wherein the ester oil is not diethoxyethyl succinate, bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate, or heptyl undecylenate.

9. The method according to claim 6, wherein the natural oil is not Olea europaea (OLIVE) fruit oil or Persea gratissima (avocado) oil.

10. The method according to claim 2, wherein the fatty acid is any one or more selected from the group consisting of myristic acid, stearic acid, and behenic acid.

11. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises any one or more selected from the group consisting of a thickener and a vitamin.

12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the thickener is any one or more selected from the group consisting of acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, and xanthan gum; and the vitamin is panthenol.

13. The method according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises a surfactant and an oil at 1% to 10% by weight for each ingredient based on a total weight of the cosmetic composition.

14. A method for maintaining the microbiome balance in the skin, the method comprising applying a cosmetic composition comprising a surfactant and an oil to the skin of a subject.

15. The method according to claim 14, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises a fatty acid.

16. The method according to claim 14, wherein maintaining microbiome balance in the skin is achieved by maintaining or enhancing beneficial skin bacteria.

17. The method according to claim 16, wherein the beneficial skin bacteria are Staphylococcus epidermidis.

Description

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS

[0095] FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a method for preparing a composition for evaluating beneficial skin bacteria affinity;

[0096] FIG. 2 is a diagram illustrating the bacterial growth index according to the beneficial skin bacteria affinity evaluation of each surfactant;

[0097] FIG. 3 is a diagram illustrating the bacterial growth index according to the beneficial skin bacteria affinity evaluation of each oil-soluble ingredient (oil); and

[0098] FIG. 4 is a diagram illustrating the beneficial skin bacteria affinity evaluation results of cosmetic compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0099] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to Examples. However, these Examples are intended to illustrate the present invention by way of example, and the scope of the present invention is not limited by these Examples, and it will be clear to those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains.

Preparation Example 1. Preparation of Composition for Evaluating Beneficial Skin Bacteria Affinity

[0100] In order to evaluate the beneficial skin bacteria affinity of surfactants and oil-soluble ingredients among formulation ingredients, a composition was prepared as an oil-in-water dispersed phase as follows.

[0101] Specifically, as illustrated in FIG. 2, one type of surfactant was selected from among a total of seven types of surfactants [non-ionic (PEG (polyethylene glycol) and non-PEG) surfactants, ionic (anionic, cationic, and amphoteric) surfactants, and other (phospholipid and non-phospholipid) surfactants] classified according to functional groups, weighed, and then dissolved and dispersed in a temperature range of 50° C. to 80° C. depending on the activation temperature of each surfactant. The oil-soluble ingredient (oil) was selected from among a total of four types of oils [hydrocarbon, ester, silicone, and natural (naturally derived) oils] classified according to functional groups as illustrated in FIG. 3, and up to 4 ingredients, weighed to be 5% by weight (maximum 20% by weight in the present invention) for each ingredient, was mixed with the surfactant, and stirring was performed until the mixture became uniform. The mixture was gradually added to water so that the total percentage by weight became 100% by weight, emulsified for about 5 minutes using a homogenizer, cooled, and then discharged (FIG. 1).

Experimental Example 1. Beneficial Skin Bacteria Affinity Evaluation

[0102] As the beneficial bacteria serving as the affinity evaluation criterion of each composition prepared in Preparation Example 1, Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis), a Gram positive bacterium, was selected. S. epidermidis is part of the skin flora present in large numbers in healthy skin, and is a representative beneficial bacterium that helps improve skin immunity and protect skin from external environmental factors by producing peptide antibiotics or PSM (phenol-soluble modulins) (Parlet, C. P., et al. (2019) Trends in microbiology, 27(6), 497-507). The evaluation of affinity for beneficial bacteria was performed by the challenge test method (Russell A. D., (2003), Int J Cosmet Sci., 25(3), 147-153) as follows.

[0103] Specifically, S. epidermidis was first incubated in TSA (Tryptic Soy Agar) medium at 37° C. for 24 hours, and then inoculated into 50.0 g of each composition prepared in Preparation Example 1 so as to be 1×10.sup.6 CFU to 1×10.sup.7 CFU (colony-forming units)/mL. After inoculation, the bacteria were evenly mixed in the composition by vortexing or using a sterilized stick. After inoculation, the mixture was stored at room temperature. In consideration of the product usage cycle, such as cosmetics, and the general usage patterns of these products, a maximum of 24 hours was set as the time required for examination. With this determination, 24 hours after inoculation, 1 mL of the composition inoculated with the bacteria was diluted stepwise using a 0.85% NaCl solution, 100 μL of each diluted solution was spread on TSA medium, incubation was conducted at 37° C. for 48 hours, and then CFUs were counted.

[0104] As the affinity evaluation criterion, the following “bacterial growth index*” parameter was used, and a composition having a bacterial growth index of −1.00 or more on day 1 after inoculation of bacteria was selected as a “cosmetic with beneficial skin bacteria-friendly properties” having an effect of maintaining beneficial skin bacteria or enhancing beneficial skin bacteria.


*Bacterial growth index=log.sub.10[{Number of viable bacteria (CFU/g)}/{Number of inoculated bacteria (CFU/g)}]

[0105] As a result, as illustrated in FIG. 2, it was confirmed that ionic (anionic, cationic, and amphoteric) surfactants and a plurality of PEG-containing surfactants rapidly inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria. On the other hand, non-ionic surfactants, specifically PEG-based or non-PEG-based surfactants, phospholipid-based surfactants, and non-phospholipid-based surfactants (sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and inulin lauryl carbamate) did not inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria.

[0106] In particular, from the results, it was confirmed that phospholipid-based surfactants have a remarkable effect of maintaining or enhancing beneficial bacteria, and thus it can be concluded that phospholipid-based surfactants are suitable for a cosmetic composition with beneficial skin bacteria-friendly properties.

[0107] As illustrated in FIG. 3, it was confirmed that among the oil-soluble ingredients, oils such as diethoxyethyl succinate, bis-ethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,4-dicarboxylate, heptyl undecylenate, Olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, or Persea gratissima (avocado) oil inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria. On the other hand, it was confirmed that hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils do not inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria and maintain the bacterial growth index of −1.0 or more until day 1 or day 2. Most ester oils and natural oils do not inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria as the bacterial growth index exceeds −1.0, although there is a slight difference in degree.

Preparation Example 2. Preparation of Cosmetic Composition with Beneficial Skin Bacteria-Friendly Properties

[0108] Based on the results of Experimental Example 1, a cosmetic composition containing a surfactant and an oil-soluble ingredient, which were confirmed not to inhibit the growth of beneficial bacteria, was prepared by the method of Preparation Example 1. The ingredients for Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 are shown in the following Table 1.

TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 Comparative Comparative Comparative INCI Example 1 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 A) Surfactant C14-22 ALCOHOLS 2.50 C12-20 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE HYDROGENATED LECITHIN 2.50 PEG-60 GLYCERYL ISOSTEARATE 5.00 2.50 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 5.00 2.50 B) Oil-soluble HYDROGENATED POLYDECENE 5.00 ingredient ISODODECANE 5.00 UNDECANE 5.00 TRIDECANE HYDROGENATED 5.00 POLYISOBUTENE OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT 5.00 5.00 5.00 OIL DIETHOXYETHYL SUCCINATE 5.00 5.00 5.00 BIS-ETHOXYDIGLYCOL 5.00 5.00 5.00 CYCLOHEXANE 1,4-DICARBOXYLATE HEPTYL UNDECYLENATE 5.00 5.00 5.00 C) Water and TROMETHAMINE 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 others ACRYLATES/C10-30 ALKYL 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER XANTHAN GUM 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 GLYCERIN 8.50 8.50 8.50 8.50 DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 PANTHENOL 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 WATER To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100

Experimental Example 2. Beneficial Skin Bacteria Affinity Evaluation of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3

[0109] The beneficial skin bacteria affinity evaluation of the cosmetic compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 prepared in Preparation Example 2 was performed by way of the method of Experimental Example 1, and the results are shown in Tables 2 and 3 below.

TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 Comparative Comparative Comparative CFU/g Example 1 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Day 0 10,360,000 10,360,000 10,360,000 10,360,000 Day 1 1,300,000 1,000 54,000 10,000

TABLE-US-00003 TABLE 3 Bacterial growth Comparative Comparative Comparative index Example 1 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Day 0 0 0 0 0 Day 1 −0.90 −4.02 −2.28 −3.02

[0110] As shown in Tables 2 and 3, the formulation of Example 1 comprising hydrocarbon oils and non-ionic and phospholipid surfactants, which have beneficial bacteria-friendly properties, does not inhibit the growth of S. epidermidis, and the formulations of Comparative Examples 1 to 3 inhibit the growth of S. epidermidis (FIG. 4).

[0111] As it can be confirmed that Example 1 does not inhibit the growth of beneficial skin bacteria, has beneficial skin bacteria-friendly properties, and can maintain or promote the growth of beneficial bacteria without the addition of active materials such as prebiotics or probiotics, it can be concluded that the formulation can be provided as a microbiome cosmetic composition.

[0112] From the above description, those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains will be able to understand that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without changing the technical spirit or essential characteristics thereof. In this regard, it should be understood that the embodiments described above are illustrative in all respects and not limiting. The scope of the present invention should be construed as including all changes or modifications derived from the meaning and scope of the following claims and their equivalent concepts rather than the detailed description above.