Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, comprising the application of a base composition and a composition comprising a polyol

Abstract

Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, comprising the application of a base composition and a composition comprising a polyol The present invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, preferably human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, using a combination of at least two different compositions, the first composition comprising one or more oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated, silicones, one or more cationic surfactants, and less than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and the second composition comprising water and one or more polyols. The invention also relates to a kit comprising the two compositions. Finally, the invention relates to a ready-to-use cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres.

Claims

1. A cosmetic process for caring and/or conditioning hair comprising: (i) a step of mixing at least: a first composition comprising one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones, one or more cationic surfactants, and less than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the first composition, and a second composition comprising water and one or more polyols, so as to obtain a final cosmetic composition, and then (ii) a step of applying the final cosmetic composition to the hair; the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones being non-oxypropylenated; and wherein the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones of the first composition are chosen from the compounds of the formula (II) below: ##STR00013## in which formula (II): R.sub.1 denotes a methyl radical, R.sub.2 independently represents a radical —C.sub.cH.sub.2c—O—(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a—R.sub.5, a ranges from 2 to 20, c is equal to 2 or 3, R.sub.5 represents a hydrogen atom resulting in a terminal hydroxyl group on R.sub.2, n ranges from 12 to 100, p ranges from 1 to 20; and wherein the one or more cationic surfactants of the first composition are chosen from the following compounds: quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI) below: ##STR00014## in which formula (VI): the groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11 independently represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of the groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and X− is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylsulfonates and (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylarylsulfonates.

2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first composition comprises less than 9% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The process according to claim 2, wherein the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones of the first composition represent from 0.01% to 10% by relative to the total weight of the first composition.

4. The process according to claim 1, wherein c is equal to 2.

5. The process according to claim 4, wherein the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones of the first composition represent from 0.01% to 10% by relative to the total weight of the first composition.

6. The process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones of the first composition represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

7. The process according claim 1, wherein the one or more cationic surfactants of the first composition are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium salts, behenyltrimethylammonium salts, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

8. The process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more cationic surfactants of the first composition represent a total content of from 0.05% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

9. The process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more polyols of the second composition are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol.

10. The process according to claim 1, wherein the one or more polyols of the second composition represent from 0.01% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

11. The process according to claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises at least 15% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition.

12. The process according to claim 1, wherein the first and the second compositions are mixed in a first composition/second composition weight ratio ranging from 0.2 to 5.

13. The process according to claim 1, wherein the mixing step is performed just before the application step.

14. A kit comprising at least two compartments: a first compartment comprising a first composition comprising one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones, one or more cationic surfactants, and less than 10% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the first composition, wherein the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones being non-oxypropylenated, and wherein the one or more non-amino oxyethylenated silicones of the first composition are chosen from the compounds of the formula (II) below: ##STR00015## in which formula (II): R.sub.1 denotes a methyl radical, R.sub.2 independently represents a radical —C.sub.cH.sub.2c—O—(C.sub.2H.sub.4O).sub.a—R.sub.5, a ranges from 2 to 20, c is equal to 2 or 3, R.sub.5 represents a hydrogen atom resulting in a terminal hydroxyl group on R.sub.2, n ranges from 12 to 100, p ranges from 1 to 20; and wherein the one or more cationic surfactants of the first composition are chosen from the following compounds: quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI) below: ##STR00016## in which formula (VI): the groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11 independently represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of the groups R.sub.8 to R.sub.11 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and X− is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkyl sulfates, (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylsulfonates and (C.sub.1-C.sub.4)alkylarylsulfonates; and a second compartment comprising a second composition comprising water and one or more polyols.

Description

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Preparation of a First Composition that May be Used in the Process According to the Invention (“Base” Composition)

(1) Composition A was prepared according to table 1 below by mixing the ingredients in the contents indicated as grams of active material.

(2) TABLE-US-00001 TABLE 1 “Base” composition A Behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate 1.6 (Commercial product INCROQUAT BEHENYL TMS from company CRODA comprising 25% by weight of behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate in cetearyl alcohol) Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride 1.8 pH agent qs pH 4.5 ± 0.5 Myristyl alcohol 7.0 Caprylic/capric acid triglycerides 7.3 Bis(C.sub.12-C.sub.13)alkyl 2-hydroxybutanedioate 0.8 Oxypropyl (10 OP) methylglucoside 0.9 Propylene glycol 15 Oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane (14 OE) 1 Fragrance qs Ethanol 50 Water qs 100 g

Example 2: Preparation of Second Compositions that May be Used in the Process According to the Invention (“Booster” Compositions)

(3) Compositions B1 to D1 were prepared according to table 2 below by mixing the ingredients in the contents indicated as grams of active material.

(4) TABLE-US-00002 TABLE 2 “Booster” compositions B1 C1 D1 pH agent qs pH qs pH qs pH 3.5 ± 0.5 3.8 ± 0.5 3.8 ± 0.5 Preserving agents qs qs qs Mixture of amino acids of 0.1 — — plant origin Hexadimethrine chloride 1.35 — — Amodimethicone (Belsil 2.25 1.5 — ADM LOG 1 from Wacker) Glycerol 6.8 0.4 25 Cetyltrimethylammonium 1.5 chloride Quaternized wheat protein — — 0.1 hydrolysate L-Arginine — — 0.06 L-Glutamic acid — — 0.06 L-Serine — — 0.03 Water qs qs qs 100 g 100 g 100 g

Example 3: Preparation and Use of the Final Compositions that May be Used in the Process According to the Invention

(5) The “base” composition A was mixed with each of the “booster” compositions B1 to D1 in a 1/1 weight ratio to form the final compositions B2 to D2, respectively.

(6) The final compositions are obtained by mixing, using a spatula, of the two compositions and form masks (compositions in cream form) on conclusion of the mixing.

(7) The compositions are applied to the hair at a rate of 12 g of final composition for the entire head of hair, and are then left on the hair for 5 minutes.

(8) The hair is then rinsed and dried.

(9) The final composition B2 leads to good performance qualities in terms of disentangling, smoothness, coating of the hair and hair repair, which makes the composition particularly suitable for damaged, brittle and split hair.

(10) The final composition C2 leads to good performance qualities in terms of disentangling, a smooth feel, and more particularly coating of the hair, and hair nutrition, which makes the composition particularly suitable for dry or dried-out hair especially in need of prolonged nutrition.

(11) The final composition D2 leads to good performance qualities in terms of disentangling, smoothness, and more particularly coating of the hair. Moreover, it minimizes the frizziness, in particular to meet the needs of unmanageable, unruly hair.

Example 4: Instrumental Evaluation of the Compositions

4.1 Composition B2

(12) Composition B2 was evaluated as regards its influence on the strength of locks of hair, by means of a flexabrasion test.

(13) The flexabrasion test simulates the wear of a hair strand to measure its strength. The device reproduces the real conditions of the stresses inflicted during combing or brushing: extension (when the comb stretches the hair), abrasion (when the fibres rub against each other or on the teeth of the comb) and flexion (when the hairs wind around the comb).

(14) A hair strand, made taut by means of a weight attached to one of its ends, slides while folding on a comb tooth. A device sets it in a to-and-fro motion, of given amplitude and frequency.

(15) The strength of the hair strand is characterized by the time and/or the number of cycles after which the hair strand, subjected to this stress, breaks.

(16) The time before breaking and/or the number of cycles before breaking is proportionately higher the stronger the hair strand.

(17) Clean locks of hair weighing 2.7 g and 26 cm long are treated, on the one hand, with composition B2 derived from the mixing of compositions A and B1, and, on the other hand, with a composition B′2 derived from the mixing of composition A with water, in a 1/1 ratio in both cases, at a rate of 1.08 g of composition per lock of hair. After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the locks are rinsed and dried.

(18) This treatment (application, rinsing, drying) is repeated five times in total.

(19) After the fifth treatment, 25 hair strands are taken from each lock so as to perform the flexabrasion test on each hair strand.

(20) The median values of the number of cycles and of the time up to breaking are presented below (for 25 hair strands).

(21) TABLE-US-00003 Number of cycles Time (in seconds) Treatment with B2 388.5 777 (invention) - 5 applications Treatment with B′2 290 580 (comparative) - 5 applications

(22) It is found that the use of composition B2 leads to a higher number of cycles and to a longer time before breaking than the use of the comparative composition B′2. Composition B2 thus very markedly improves the strength of the hair strands.

4.2 Composition C2

(23) Composition C2 was evaluated as regards improving the surface state of the hair by means of a lock-on-lock sliding test.

(24) Six clean locks of hair weighing 1 g and 26 cm long are treated with composition C2, at a rate of 0.4 g of composition per 1 g lock. After a leave-on time of 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed.

(25) The mean force required to make a lock slide between two other locks positioned head-to-tail is measured on a sliding bench. The lower the force, the better the surface state of the hair. The measurements are taken on wet locks, before and after treatment with composition C2.

(26) The mean of the mean forces measured on the six locks is given below.

(27) TABLE-US-00004 Mean force before Mean force after treatment (N) treatment (N) 1.35 ± 0.12 0.37 ± 0.04

(28) Composition C2 makes it possible to significantly reduce the force required for sliding, and thus makes it possible to significantly improve the surface state of the hair.