Water-in-oil emulsion containing baicalin, a xanthine base, a vitamin B3, and a polyvalent metal cation salt

Abstract

The invention provides, in the field of caring for and/or making up keratin materials, especially the skin, a composition in water-in-oil emulsion form, containing: a) a continuous oily phase, b) a discontinuous aqueous phase dispersed in the oily phase; c) at least baicalin and/or a derivative thereof and/or a plant extract containing the compound(s); d) at least one vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof; e) at least one xanthine base and/or a plant extract containing same; and f) at least one polyvalent cation salt.

Claims

1. A composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in a physiologically acceptable medium, and is, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion containing at least: a) a continuous oily phase, b) a discontinuous aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase; c) at least baicalin and/or a derivative thereof and/or a plant extract containing said baicalin and/or derivative thereof; d) at least one vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof; e) at least one of caffeine and a plant extract containing caffeine; and f) at least one polyvalent metal cation salt selected from the group consisting of magnesium sulfate and calcium chloride, wherein the composition is stable at 4° C., at 25° C. and at 45° C., wherein stable is defined as active agents remaining soluble without crystallization in the aqueous phase, the active agents are the baicalin and/or a derivative thereof and/or a plant extract containing said baicalin and/or a derivative thereof, the vitamin B3 and/or a derivative thereof, and the caffeine and/or a plant extract containing caffeine.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising baicalin and/or one of the compounds corresponding to the following formula (I): ##STR00007## wherein each X.sub.1, X.sub.2, X.sub.3, X.sub.4, X.sub.5, X.sub.a, X.sub.b, X.sub.c, X.sub.d, X.sub.e and X.sub.f, independently denotes O or S; each Y.sub.1, Y.sub.2, Y.sub.3, Y.sub.4, Y.sub.6, independently denotes H or a (C.sub.1-C.sub.10)alkyl radical; each R.sub.4, R.sub.5, R.sub.a, R.sub.b et R.sub.c, independently denotes H, a (C.sub.1-C.sub.10)alkyl radical optionally substituted by 1 to 5 groups R.sub.y, or a (C.sub.1-C.sub.10)alkyl-O—(C.sub.1-C.sub.10)alkyl radical, each (C.sub.1-C.sub.10)alkyl radical optionally being substituted by 1 to 5 groups R.sub.y; each R.sub.y, independently denotes R.sub.q or a (C.sub.2-C.sub.10)alkenyl, —(C.sub.2-C.sub.10)alkynyl, —(C.sub.3-C.sub.10)cycloalkyl, —(C.sub.8-C.sub.14)bicycloalkyl, —(C.sub.8-C.sub.14)tricycloalkyl, —(C.sub.5-C.sub.10)cycloalkenyl, —(C.sub.8-C.sub.14)tricycloalkenyl, phenyl, naphthyl, —(C.sub.14)aryl radical, each optionally being substituted by one or more radicals R.sub.z; each R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3, independently denotes R.sub.q or a —(C.sub.2-C.sub.10)alkenyl, —(C.sub.2-C.sub.10)alkynyl, —(C.sub.3-C.sub.10)cycloalkyl, —(C.sub.8-C.sub.14)bicycloalkyl, —(C.sub.8-C.sub.14)tricycloalkyl, —(C.sub.5-C.sub.10)cycloalkenyl, —(C.sub.8-C.sub.14)tricycloalkenyl, phenyl, naphthyl, —(C.sub.14)aryl radical, each optionally being substituted by one or more radicals R.sub.z; Rf is H, (C.sub.1-C.sub.12) alkyl optionally substituted by 1 to 5 radicals R.sub.y, (C.sub.1-C.sub.12)alkyl-O—(C.sub.1-C.sub.12)alkyl, each (C.sub.1-C.sub.12)alkyl radical optionally being substituted by 1 to 5 groups R.sub.y; each R.sub.q, independently is CN, OH, halogen, N.sub.3, NO.sub.2, N(R.sub.z).sub.2, ═NR.sub.z, CH═NR.sub.z, NR.sub.zOH, OR.sub.z, COR.sub.z, C(O)R.sub.z, O(CO)OR.sub.z, SR.sub.z, S(O)R.sub.z or S(O).sub.2R.sub.z; each R.sub.z, independently is —(C.sub.1-C.sub.6)alkyl, —(C.sub.2-C.sub.6)alkenyl, —(C.sub.3-C.sub.8)cycloalkyl, —(C.sub.3-C.sub.8)cycloalkenyl, phenyl, a heterocycle having 3 to 5 branches, CH(halo).sub.2 or C(halo).sub.3; and n is equal to 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5, and also the salts thereof, the optical isomers thereof, and/or the diastereoisomers thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising baicalin corresponding to the following general formula (II): ##STR00008## or a plant extract containing same.

4. The composition according to claim 3, wherein the baicalin of formula (II) is present in active material concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition according claim 1, wherein the vitamin B3 is niacinamide.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the vitamin B3 and/or one of the derivatives thereof are present in active material concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the caffeine is present in a content of active material ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to claim 1, in which the polyvalent metal cation salt(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more emulsifying surfactants.

10. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one additive selected from the group consisting of: sunscreens, pigments, fillers, additional colorants, and mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one pigment.

12. The composition according to claim 1, being in the form of a foundation.

13. A process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising: application to the keratin materials of a composition according to claim 1.

14. The composition according to claim 3, which comprises a plant extract and the plant extract is a scullcap root extract.

15. The composition according to claim 14, wherein the scullcap root extract is of Scutellaria baicalensis, with the INCI name: SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT.

16. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the at least one pigment is coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

17. The composition according to claim 2 or 3, wherein the baicalin of formula (II) or one of the compounds of formula (I) are present in active material concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein the vitamin B3 is niacinamide and is present in active material concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein the caffeine is present in a content of active material ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein the polyvalent metal cation salt(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and wherein the composition is in the form of a foundation.

Description

Examples 1 to 4: Foundations in the Form of a Water/Oil Emulsion

(1) TABLE-US-00001 EX. 3 EX. 4 EX. 1 EX. 2 (outside the (outside the Phase Ingredients (invention) (invention) invention) invention) A1 POLYGLYCERYL-4 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 DIISOSTEARATE/POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE SEBACATE (ISOLAN GPS ® from EVONIK) PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 (CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) from CRODA) A2 HOMOSALATE 10 10 10 10 ETHYLHEXYL SALICYLATE 5 5 5 5 OCTOCRYLENE 7 7 7 7 A3 PDMS 2CST 16.00 16.00 16.00 16.00 (SILICONE FLUID 2CS ® from DOW CORNING) A4 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 (BENTONE V38 ® from ELEMENTIS) A5 VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER (KSP 100 ® from SHIN ETSU) A6 VITAMIN E TOCOPHEROL 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 B Propanediol 5 5 5 5 SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 (BAICALIN 95 MM ® from MMP) MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.7000 0 0 0.7000 CALCIUM CHLORIDE 0 0.7000 0 0 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0 0 0.7000 0 WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 NIACINAMIDE 2 2 2 2.5 CAFFEINE 1 1 1 0 C ALCOHOL 5 5 5 5 D YELLOW IRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM 14 14 14 14 STEAROYL GLUTAMATE RED IRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE BLACK IRON OXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE TITANIUM DIOXIDE COATED WITH ALUMINIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE

(2) Protocol

(3) Preparation of the Aqueous Phase B:

(4) In a glass beaker: the Niaciniamide was dissolved in water with stirring using a magnetic bar, then the caffeine was added in order to obtain a transparent solution, then the baicalin was added in order to obtain a clear yellow transparent solution with a pH of 4.7 and then the salt (MgSO.sub.4, CaCl.sub.2 or NaCl), propanediol and phenoxyethanol were added in order to obtain a clear yellow transparent solution with a pH of 4.75.

(5) Preparation of the Oily Phase:

(6) In a capsule, a part of the silicone (two times the amount of clay) was taken in order to wet the clay with a flexible spatula. On a hot plate, in the main beaker, the ethylhexyl salicylate was heated with the PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate to around 55° C., until the PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate had melted, and then the mixture was cooled by adding the other two sunscreens (the temperature drops to 30° C.) and the rest of the silicone was added.

(7) Emulsification:

(8) The aqueous phase was added little by little, with stirring on a Moritz stirrer, to the oily phase in order to obtain a concentrated white base, the stirring speed was increased and the mixture was left to stir for 10 minutes until a fluid mixture was obtained. The mixture of modified clay and volatile silicone oil was added to the white base and the resulting mixture was stirred in a turbine very strongly in order to activate the clay, and was left to stir for the 15 minutes until the mixture had thickened. The KSP 100 was added, with stirring on a Moritz stirrer, and the mixture was left for 10 minutes until it had thickened. The vitamin E and then the pigments were added until there was good development of the colour. The formula was then debubbled.

(9) After production, the appearances of all the formulas at room temperature were smooth, homogeneous and fluid. The stability of each of formulas 1 to 4, which are placed in a 30 ml transparent glass mortar for preparing ointment, so that they fill it to ⅔ of its volume, is evaluated: at room temperature for 2 months; in an incubator at 4° C. for 2 months; in an incubator at 45° C. for 2 months.

(10) The results obtained are indicated in the following table:

(11) TABLE-US-00002 EX. 4 (outside EX. 1 EX. 2 EX. 3 (outside the invention) (invention) (invention) the invention) Baicalin Baicalin Baicalin Baicalin Vitamin B3, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B3, MgSO.sub.4 MgSO.sub.4 and CaCl.sub.2 and NaCl and without Stability measured caffeine caffeine caffeine caffeine. Room temperature for 2 months Stable Stable Stable Stable 4° C. for 2 months Stable Stable Unstable: Unstable: White smear White smear on surface on surface 45° C. for 2 months Stable Stable Stable Stable

(12) Unlike examples 1 and 2 according to the invention, which comprise baicalin, vitamin B3, caffeine and a divalent metal salt, example 3 (with a monovalent metal salt) and example 4 (without caffeine) are unstable at low temperature.