Method of manufacturing a fully formed upper
11284675 · 2022-03-29
Assignee
Inventors
Cpc classification
A43D25/047
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A43D87/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A43D13/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
International classification
B29D35/12
PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
A43B23/04
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A43D13/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
A43D87/00
HUMAN NECESSITIES
Abstract
Described is a method of manufacturing a component for a shoe that includes the steps: forming a sheet of material; heating the sheet of material; stretching the heated sheet of material by moving a last into the sheet of material, wherein the last defines the shape of the component; and applying a pressure lower than ambient pressure between the stretched sheet of material and the last to conform the sheet of material to the last; or applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material to conform the sheet of material to the last.
Claims
1. A method of manufacturing a component for a shoe comprising: heating a sheet of material; stretching the heated sheet of material by moving a last into the sheet of material, wherein the last defines a shape of the component; applying at least one of a pressure lower than ambient pressure between the stretched sheet of material and the last to conform the sheet of material to the last or a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material to conform the sheet of material to the last; pulling a loop of a heated cable against a portion of the sheet of material that is wrapped underneath the last so as to pull the sheet of material into bonded securement with an insole board positioned below the last and so as to separate excess material from the component by melting the sheet of material at a point of contact with the heated cable; and cutting the stretched sheet of material to form at least one aperture and deconstructing the last to fit through the aperture.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the component is a fully formed shoe upper.
3. The method according to claim 1, wherein the stretching the heated sheet of material comprises stretching at least a portion of the sheet of material by about 30%.
4. The method according to claim 1, wherein the stretching the heated sheet of material comprises controlling the stretch during stretching.
5. The method according to claim 1, further comprising cooling down the component.
6. The method according to claim 1, wherein the applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material comprises inflating at least one bladder such that it comes into contact with at least a portion of the stretched sheet of material.
7. The method according to claim 1, further comprising fixing the sheet of material in a frame prior to heating the sheet of material.
8. The method according to claim 7, wherein the sheet of material is fixed in the frame substantially without tension.
9. The method according to claim 7, wherein the stretching the heated sheet of material comprises decreasing a distance between the frame and the last.
10. The method according to claim 1, wherein the component is a portion of an upper for a shoe.
11. The method according to claim 10, further comprising placing the insole board below the last.
12. The method according to claim 11, wherein the insole board is placed below the last before the stretching the heated sheet of material.
13. The method according to claim 12, further comprising applying an adhesive to the insole board and bonding the insole board to the portion of the upper via the adhesive.
14. The method according to claim 12, further comprising clamping the insole board and the portion of the upper between the last and a vacuum plate.
15. The method according to claim 1, further comprising applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material by at least one of a heated gas or a non-heated gas.
16. The method according to claim 15, wherein the gas comes into contact with the stretched sheet of material.
Description
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
(1) In the following detailed description, embodiments of the invention are described referring to the following figures:
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BRIEF DESCRIPTION
(11) The objective mentioned above is at least partly solved by a method of manufacturing a component for a shoe comprising the steps: (a.) providing a sheet of material; (b.) heating the sheet of material; (c.) stretching the heated sheet of material by moving a last into the sheet of material, wherein the last defines the shape of the component; and (d.) applying a pressure lower than ambient pressure between the stretched sheet of material and the last to conform the sheet of material to the last; or (e.) applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material to conform the sheet of material to the last.
(12) According to the method of the present invention, a sheet of material is first heated and then stretched by moving a last defining the shape of the component into the sheet of material. In this way, the sheet of material is stretched and preliminarily conformed to the shape of the last, before a vacuum is applied to finally conform the sheet of material to the last.
(13) The benefit of the present invention is a reduction of processing steps and machine components for manufacturing a component for a shoe. Rather than using a sequence of single steps, like cutting, forming, stitching, etc., the component may be formed around a last in a single processing step. By stretching the material over the last, the material may be completely formed around the last to make a large component, e.g. a fully-formed upper.
(14) Furthermore, the inventors have realized, that in particular the step of stretching the heated sheet of material decreases the formation of wrinkles in the subsequent step of conforming the sheet of material to the last by the vacuum. This is also due to the fact that a mat or membrane is not needed.
(15) Two alternative steps are provided according to the invention in order to conform the sheet of material to the last. According to the first alternative, a pressure lower than ambient pressure is applied between the stretched sheet of material and the last (method step d.). According to the second alternative, a pressure higher than ambient pressure is applied over the stretched sheet of material (method step e.). It should be noted that these alternatives may be performed exclusively, i.e. either step d. is performed or step e. is performed. Alternatively, both method steps may be performed, i.e. method step d. is performed and method step e. is performed. In the latter case, both alternatives may be performed simultaneously, i.e. at the same time, or subsequently, i.e. either step d. first, then step e., or step e. first, then step d.
(16) The component may be a fully formed shoe upper. “Fully formed” in this context means that the upper comprises its final three-dimensional shape. The usual steps of shaping a two-dimensional upper into a three-dimensional shape, e.g. by gluing, welding or sewing may be omitted.
(17) The step of providing the sheet of material may comprise fixing the sheet of material in a frame. Thus, the sheet of material may be firmly held in place when the last is moved into the sheet.
(18) The sheet of material may be fixed in the frame essentially without tension. Thus, any stretching of the sheet is due to the last which is moved into the sheet. In this way, the sheet may optimally conform to the shape of the last. Alternatively, the material may be fastened by loose fixation or with slight tension.
(19) The step of stretching the heated sheet of material may comprise decreasing the distance between the frame and the last. Thus, in the context of the present invention, moving the last into the sheet may comprise moving the last towards the sheet, moving the sheet towards the last, or a combination of both movements.
(20) The last may be secured to a vacuum plate. Thus, the vacuum plate may create a vacuum between the sheet of material and the last, so that the sheet is optimally conformed to the shape of the last.
(21) Alternatively, or additionally, the last may be adapted to create a vacuum between the sheet of material and the last. For example, the last may comprise a porous material and/or may comprise a plurality of holes to allow the evacuation of air between the last and the sheet of material. To this end, the last may be connected to a vacuum source or pump.
(22) The method may be performed in a heating chamber. In this way, heat may be uniformly applied to the sheet of material which may further reduce the formation of wrinkles. Alternatively, the material may be heated, e.g. in a heating chamber or on a heater, and then moved to a vacuum former where it is stretched and where pressure is applied.
(23) The step of stretching the heated sheet of material may comprise stretching at least a portion of the sheet of material by about 30%. The inventors have realized, that this amount of stretching allows the component to form around the last without failure and allows the component, in particular a fully formed shoe upper, to hold its new shape. Furthermore, at this amount of stretch, the material may be brought under the last without cracks.
(24) The portion of the sheet of material to be stretched by about 30% may be located in peripheral areas of a shoe upper. For example, the heel portion of a shoe upper may be stretched by about 30%.
(25) In general, the stretching of the heated sheet of material may vary depending on location and/or material used.
(26) The step of stretching the heated sheet of material comprises controlling the stretch during stretching. In this way, the sheet may be provided with the optimal stretch before it is conformed to the last by the vacuum. Thus, uneven stretching of the sheet may be avoided.
(27) The method may further comprise the step of cooling down the component. Thus, the component may be permanently conformed to the three-dimensional shape of the component.
(28) The component may be a portion of an upper for a shoe. In particular, the component may essentially be the entire upper of a shoe. “Essentially” in this context means except for additional components like reinforcements (e.g. heel counter and toe cap), laces, logos, etc. However, in some embodiments, the method according to the invention avoids any added components like collar binding or tongue. Thus, a three-dimensional upper may be formed by the method of the present invention in one process step in an automated process. The desirable combination of method steps avoids or at least reduces the formation of wrinkles.
(29) The method may further comprise the step of placing an insole board below the last. Thus, the insole board may be directly integrated with the component. An additional step of joining the insole board to the component may be omitted which saves process time and costs. For example, the component may essentially be an entire upper as described above, and the insole board may directly be integrated into the upper while forming the upper in its three-dimensional shape.
(30) The insole board may be placed below the last before the step of stretching the heated sheet of material. Thus, when conforming the sheet to the last, the insole board is arranged inside the resulting upper, i.e. in its correct position.
(31) The method may further comprise the step of bonding the insole board to the portion of the upper. Thus, the insole board may be permanently fixed to the portion of the upper while forming the portion of the upper. An additional, separate step of attaching the insole board may be omitted thereby saving manufacturing time and costs.
(32) The method may further comprise the steps of applying an adhesive to the insole board and bonding the insole board to the portion of the upper. Adhesives are easy to handle and allow for a firm and durable connection between the insole board and the portion of the upper.
(33) The method may further comprise the step of clamping the insole board and the portion of the upper between the last and the vacuum plate. This allows for the exertion of pressure to the insole board and the portion of the upper in order to join both parts. This is especially beneficial when using an adhesive, which often requires the application of pressure to achieve a firm bond. The pressure may be generated by the vacuum, such that no additional pressure source is needed.
(34) The method may further comprise the step of removing excess material from the component by using a heated cable, an oscillating knife or a laser. Thus, any remaining material which shall not be part of the final component is removed. In some embodiments, this is done while the component is still on the last, so that the component is fixed with respect to the cable, knife or laser.
(35) The method may further comprise the step of forming at least one aperture in the component to remove the last. Beneficially, this aperture forms an opening of the final component. For example, when forming a portion of an upper or essentially an entire upper, the aperture may be the throat opening.
(36) The method may further comprise the step of deconstructing the last to fit through the aperture. In this way, the aperture may be smaller than the fully deployed last.
(37) The step of applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material may be performed without a mat or membrane applied over the stretched sheet of material. In this way, additional machine components and method steps may be omitted.
(38) Pressure higher than ambient pressure may be applied over the stretched sheet of material by gas or steam. Thus, the pressure may be uniformly applied over the sheet of material which helps to uniformly conform the sheet to the last.
(39) The gas or steam may come into contact with the stretched sheet of material. Thus, an additional mat or membrane may be avoided as the gas or steam may directly exert pressure and heat onto the sheet.
(40) The method may further comprise the step of heating the gas or steam. In this way, the sheet of material gets softer and may better conform to the last.
(41) The step of applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material may include inflating at least one bladder such that it comes into contact with at least a portion of the stretched sheet of material. In this way, the sheet may additionally or alternatively be conformed to the last.
(42) Another aspect of the present invention relates to a component for a shoe being manufactured according to the method as described herein. The component may be a portion of an upper for a shoe.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
(43) The subject matter of embodiments of the present invention is described here with specificity to meet statutory requirements, but this description is not necessarily intended to limit the scope of the claims. The claimed subject matter may be embodied in other ways, may include different elements or steps, and may be used in conjunction with other existing or future technologies. This description should not be interpreted as implying any particular order or arrangement among or between various steps or elements except when the order of individual steps or arrangement of elements is explicitly described.
(44) Exemplary embodiments of a method according to the invention will now be described with respect to the illustrations of
(45) According to the inventive method, a sheet of material is provided in a first step. In
(46) The sheet 11 is made from material which is suitable to be formed when heated. Exemplary materials include polyurethane (PU) synthetic, polyester and thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). In some embodiments, the sheet 11 is a PU synthetic or a textile material, i.e. is made from fibers, such as a woven, non-woven, weft knit, warp knit, etc. However, in certain embodiments, non-textile materials such as a plastic sheet, film, etc. may be used. The sheet 11 may also comprise a coating of a material which may be formed when heated.
(47) The following table presents different options of materials to use for the sheet 11. The table shows the material type in column 2, a short material description in column 3, the stretch under a load of 100 N in column 4, the optimal molding time in column 5, the optimal heating time in column 6 and the working temperature in the last column.
(48) TABLE-US-00001 Material Material Stretch under Molding Heating Working Group Material Type description load 100N time in sec time in sec temp in ° C. #1 PU coated synthetic Stretchable (by- 10-30% 60 sec. 60-80 sec. 140-180° C. with stretch hand) made out of function non- non-stretch woven, or non- polyester or nylon woven microfiber, or mixture with or without a between both TPU film in fibers, needled between the layers felt, made stretchy by manufacturing process of non- woven. With a PU resin of 0.1 to 1.0 mm. Stretchable in 1, 2 or 3 directions #2 PU synthetic non- Non-stretchable 10-20% 60 sec. 60-80 sec. 140-180° C. woven or non- (by hand) non- woven microfiber woven backed PU without stretch resins. 0.1 to function with or 1.0 mm pu without a TPU film thickness in between the two layers #3 TPU films TPU films with 20-40% 40 sec. 60-80 sec. 120-170° C. laminated or coated the thickness of to textile stretch or 0.1 mm to 2 mm non-stretch, stretch laminated with in 1, 2 or 3 ways circular or weft knitted distance meshes (thickness of 1 mm to 2 mm) with an overall thickness of 2-7 mm. No matter which way of lamination or if the TPU is coated #4 PU coated Stretch knit 30-60% 40-60 sec. 60-80 sec. 120-160° C. knitwear polyester or nylon or mixture with a spandex content coated with a PU resin called stretch PU synthetic, with PU, PU Hotmelt, or TPU as top layer. The description is also valid for knitwear backed PU resins without being able to be stretched by hand #5 Stretch textile Circular knit 20-40% 60-80 sec. 60-80 sec. 150-190° C. without spandex without spandex but with stretch in 1, 2 or 3 ways, with or without a coating or laminated addition #6 Stretch textile Warp or circular 40-70% 60-80 sec. 60-80 sec. 150-180° C. with spandex knit or woven with spandex content and stretch in 1, 2 or 3 ways #7 Textile Warp knit without 30-50% 60-80 sec. 80-120 sec. 170-220° C. spandex content without stretch, as well as woven or weft knit. #8 Textile with Circular jaquard 20-90% 40-60 sec. 60-100 sec. 150-200° C. TPU yarns knit with TPU yarns with a melting point above 80° C., or warp knit or any other type of knit, stretchable by hand #9 Textile with Circular jaquard 40-90% 40-60 sec. 60-100 sec. 120-180° C. adhesive TPU knit or flat knit yarns polyester - adhesive yarn with PES or PA combination for creating the strand. With a melting point of 80° C. and above #10 Textile with low Flat knit with 20-50% 40-60 sec. 60-80 sec. 130-190° C. melting point special co- polyester yarns polyester yarns with a low melting point of 80° C. plus #11 TPU film without 70-100% 30-40 sec. 40-60 sec. 100-120° C. any backing
(49) In some embodiments, the sheet of material 11 is held static in a frame or similar construction (not shown in the illustration of
(50) In a next step of the inventive method, the sheet of material 11 is heated. As illustrated in
(51) The heat may be adjusted to selectively affect properties of the material to adjust a portion of the upper. For example, the heat may be adjusted to make the material more pliable to achieve a stable, yet permanent deformation after the stretching step.
(52) Typically, materials are heated to 120°-160° C. for about 60 seconds, but generally, materials may be heated to higher temperatures for different time periods. For example, a non-woven sheet of material with a polyurethane coating may be heated to 200° C. for 40 seconds. It is important to heat up the material to a so called “gel value” which allows a deformation in subsequent steps and a subsequent maintaining of the final, desired shape of the component after cooling.
(53) In a next step of the inventive method, the heated sheet of material 11 is stretched by moving a last 13 into the sheet of material 11 as illustrated in
(54) As illustrated in
(55) In the next step, a pressure lower than ambient pressure is applied between the stretched sheet of material and the last to conform the sheet of material to the last. In the example of
(56) In some embodiments, the last 13 comprises holes which are connected to a vacuum source. In this case, the last 13 need not be secured to a vacuum plate.
(57) After the material is heated and formed by the vacuum, it is cooled down to a temperature between −10° and 5° C. However, different temperatures may generally be used. This cooling step fixates the formed component.
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(60) The stretch achieved in the embodiments of
(61) After forming the component on the last, excess material may be removed as illustrated in
(62) Alternatively, the excess material 42 may be removed by an oscillating knife or a laser that cuts the excess material from underneath the last 13.
(63) In some embodiments of the present invention, after the sheet 11 is conformed to the shape of the last 13, the resulting upper component may be secured to an insole board (not shown in the Figures). The insole board may already be in place below the last 13 at the beginning of the manufacturing process. On the insole board a certain kind of adhesive is applied, either manually, per robot or pre-applied. For example, a cold cement (e.g. a hotmelt) may be pre-applied such that when the material is wrapped underneath the last, the material is bonded to the insole board.
(64) Depending on the material used for the sheet 11, the material may already begin to wrap around the bottom of the last 13 as may be seen in
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(66) An exemplary last 13 which is suitable for the method according to certain embodiments of the invention is shown in
(67)
(68) Based on the configuration of the frame 21, the sheet of material 11 may be placed over a last 13 to perform the method steps as described above in detail, i.e. heat the sheet of material 11, stretch the heated sheet of material 11 by moving the last 13 into the sheet of material 11, and apply a pressure lower than ambient pressure between the stretched sheet of material 11 and the last 13 to conform the sheet of material 11 to the last 13.
(69)
(70) As shown in
(71) The chamber also comprises a second valve 83 which may be used to apply additional heat. For example, additional heat may be provided by a conventional hot air blower to raise the heat about 200° C. In exemplary embodiments, additional heat of between 200°-300° C. is applied via the valve 83.
(72) In the exemplary embodiments of
(73) As shown in
(74) In the following, further examples are described to facilitate the understanding of the invention:
EXAMPLE 1
Method of Manufacturing a Component for a Shoe Comprising the Steps
(75) providing a sheet of material (11);
(76) heating the sheet of material (11);
(77) stretching the heated sheet of material (11) by moving a last (13) into the sheet of material (11), the last (13) defines the shape of the component; and
(78) applying a pressure lower than ambient pressure between the stretched sheet of material (11) and the last (13) to conform the sheet of material (11) to the last (13); or
(79) applying a pressure higher than ambient pressure over the stretched sheet of material (11) to conform the sheet of material (11) to the last (13).
EXAMPLE 2
Method According to the Preceding Example, Wherein the Component is a Fully Formed Shoe Upper
EXAMPLE 3
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Step of Providing the Sheet of Material (11) Comprises Fixing the Sheet of Material (11) in a Frame (21)
EXAMPLE 4
Method According to the Preceding Example, Wherein the Sheet of Material is Fixed in the Frame (21) Essentially without Tension
EXAMPLE 5
Method According to One of Examples 3 to 4, Wherein the Step of Stretching the Heated Sheet of Material (11) Comprises Decreasing the Distance Between the Frame (21) and the Last (13)
EXAMPLE 6
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Last (13) is Secured to a Vacuum Plate (14)
EXAMPLE 7
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Method is Performed in a Heating Chamber
EXAMPLE 8
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Step of Stretching the Heated Sheet of Material (11) Comprises Stretching at Least of Portion of the Sheet of Material (11) by About 30%
EXAMPLE 9
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Step of Stretching the Heated Sheet of Material (11) Comprises Controlling the Stretch During Stretching
EXAMPLE 10
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Further Comprising the Step of Cooling Down the Component
EXAMPLE 11
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Component is a Portion of an Upper for a Shoe
EXAMPLE 12
Method According to the Preceding Example, Further Comprising the Step of Placing an Insole Board Below the Last (13)
EXAMPLE 13
Method According to the Preceding Example, Wherein the Insole Board is Placed Below the Last Before the Step of Stretching the Heated Sheet of Material (11)
EXAMPLE 14
Method According to One of Examples 12 To 13, Further Comprising the Step of Bonding the Insole Board to the Portion of the Upper
EXAMPLE 15
Method According to the Preceding Example, Further Comprising the Steps of Applying an Adhesive to the Insole Board and Bonding the Insole Board to the Portion of the Upper by Means of the Adhesive
EXAMPLE 16
Method According to Claim 6 and One of Examples 14 To 15, Further Comprising the Step of Clamping the Insole Board and the Portion of the Upper Between the Last and the Vacuum Plate (14)
EXAMPLE 17
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Further Comprising the Step of Removing Excess Material from the Component by Using a Heated Cable, an Oscillating Knife or a Laser
EXAMPLE 18
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Further Comprising the Step of Forming at Least One Aperture in the Component to Remove the Last
EXAMPLE 19
Method According to the Preceding Example, Further Comprising the Step of Deconstructing the Last (13) to Fit Through the Aperture
EXAMPLE 20
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Step of Applying a Pressure Higher than Ambient Pressure Over the Stretched Sheet of Material (11) is Performed without a Mat or Membrane Applied Over the Stretched Sheet of Material (11)
EXAMPLE 21
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein Pressure Higher than Ambient Pressure is Applied Over the Stretched Sheet of Material (11) by a Gas
EXAMPLE 22
Method According to the Preceding Example, Wherein the Gas Comes into Contact with the Stretched Sheet of Material (11)
EXAMPLE 23
Method According to One of Examples 21 or 22, Further Comprising the Step of Heating the Gas
EXAMPLE 24
Method According to One of the Preceding Examples, Wherein the Step of Applying a Pressure Higher than Ambient Pressure Over the Stretched Sheet of Material (11) Includes Inflating at Least One Bladder (84a, 84b) Such that it Comes into Contact with at Least a Portion of the Stretched Sheet of Material (11)
EXAMPLE 25
Component for a Shoe Being Manufactured According to One of the Preceding Examples
EXAMPLE 26
Component for a Shoe According to the Preceding Example, Wherein the Component is a Portion of an Upper for a Shoe
EXAMPLE 27
Component for a Shoe According to Example 25, Wherein the Component is a Fully Formed Shoe Upper
(80) Different arrangements of the components depicted in the drawings or described above, as well as components and steps not shown or described are possible. Similarly, some features and sub-combinations are useful and may be employed without reference to other features and sub-combinations. Embodiments of the invention have been described for illustrative and not restrictive purposes, and alternative embodiments will become apparent to readers of this patent. Accordingly, the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described above or depicted in the drawings, and various embodiments and modifications may be made without departing from the scope of the claims below.